OCHRE 72 K20 Restoration

[AZ Chev]

So I figured this winch bumper was home fabricated, but this morning one was listed on the parts forum, and it’s identical. Apparently it is a Warn bumper. Now I’ll have to decide whether or not to use it in the build. Hmmm

[52napco]

I bought the bumper and winch from Jim this morning..I'm doing a frame off as well on my 72 Bronz and white K20 Super and cant decide whether to use one of my Warn winch bumpers or go with an original chrome bumper. What do you think ??

[best view]

I have it’s brother to see it do search k20 only .it’s on page 9 post 214 and page 37 post 906 mine also have sport mirror

[AZ Chev]

Nice buy. That’s a hard one. I’m leaning toward the Warn. I just had a really nice OE bumper re-chromed for the build, but now second guessing. I didn’t realize I had an actual Warn bumper. The fact it actually came on the truck makes me think even more that way.

Now if I do that.... can’t use a sport bumper on the rear. Would have to use something that goes with the front.

[DeadheadNM]

Warn bumper info here: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=732004

[AZ Chev]

Thanks again Pete!

So with this information, I’m not sure what I have. Stamped bumper portion is correct, front plate correct, had aluminum diamond plate riveted in in place of the steel diamond plate, but has the original holes for the steel diamond plate. Angled front plate supports are correct. The difference is this bumper has a lot more structural support than the other bumpers, and the angled outer bumper supports are different, and the brush guard. All the welds look factory except possibly the controller stand. Did they make different models, or has this one just been beefed up and added to? Hmmm

[AZ Chev]

Originally Posted by best view

I have it’s brother to see it do search k20 only .it’s on page 9 post 214 and page 37 post 906 mine also have sport mirror

BestView, was unable to find it but would love to see it. Can you send me a link?

[AZ Chev]

So while combing over the body, I noticed the hood metal sags and is real soft in between the hood support channels. Support pads are in place, original paint, no creases in middle ridge etc. but sheet metal sagging. Does anyone have a good fix for this other than filler? If not, I may be have to use an OEM replacement. I am trying to keep filler to a minimum.

[best view]

I gave u the link hit the search button then type k20 only and punch the link then go to those pages

[69Tom]

Originally Posted by AZ Chev

So while combing over the body, I noticed the hood metal sags and is real soft in between the hood support channels. Support pads are in place, original paint, no creases in middle ridge etc. but sheet metal sagging. Does anyone have a good fix for this other than filler? If not, I may be have to use an OEM replacement. I am trying to keep filler to a minimum.

You can shrink the metal using heat then cooling it. Old school technique. Also, often under the supports, the sealer they put in dries out and causes the metal to have way more play than it originally did.

[AZ Chev]

Thanks Tom, I’ll have to try that. Heat gun then mist with a squirt bottle, or we talking torch heat? I’m not afraid to give it a shot because I don’t believe it is usable as it is.

[69Tom]

Originally Posted by AZ Chev

Thanks Tom, I’ll have to try that. Heat gun then mist with a squirt bottle, or we talking torch heat? I’m not afraid to give it a shot because I don’t believe it is usable as it is.

Torch heat followed by compressed air to cool. I think there's some decent youtube videos on it.

[AZ Chev]

I removed the Edelbrock carburetor for inspection and found both throttle plates badly bent. In spite of the fact the truck has a correct Edelbrock intake, it appears someone tried to install this new carb with the original manifold, and bent the throttle plates before installing the new manifold. I straightened the throttle plates the best I could and replaced the soft parts in the carb, as it has been sitting for a while. After installing the carburetor, it started right up.

We took it for a test drive. The engine ran great, transmission shifted as it should, and it stopped good. The steering however was a little loose. I brought it home, put it back on the lift and inspected the suspension. To my surprise, it has a brand new PS gear box and tie rod ends, but most everything else in the suspension is completely shot, including spring eye bushings and ball joints. I also found the rivets in the front cross member are loose, allowing movement in the frame rail at the PS gear box. The good news, no cracks in the frame, so should be a simple fix.

[57taskforce]

I’m in for this one. Great looking truck and excellent progress so far. My 72 K20 came with sport mirrors as well. You got lucky on the frame rivets, my K20’s were loose and broken. I drilled them to 7/16 and bolted back it together with grade 8’s. The frame on my K10 is still cracked (sitting waiting for its turn to get worked on) and my K20 was cracked (ord frame repair plates were the remedy) I would run the winch bumper, that’s just me though.

[402Bowtie]

Just came across this today. Excited to see more! And I love ochre!

[AZ Chev]

Originally Posted by 402Bowtie

Just came across this today. Excited to see more! And I love ochre!

Thanks for joining!

[AZ Chev]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

I’m in for this one. Great looking truck and excellent progress so far. My 72 K20 came with sport mirrors as well. You got lucky on the frame rivets, my K20’s were loose and broken. I drilled them to 7/16 and bolted back it together with grade 8’s. The frame on my K10 is still cracked (sitting waiting for its turn to get worked on) and my K20 was cracked (ord frame repair plates were the remedy) I would run the winch bumper, that’s just me though.

Thanks for joining and for the comments. I fixed with the 7/16 grade 8s as well. I'm just thankful I didn't have any cracks.

Still debating on the bumper. That one may be up in the air for a while yet, as I have plenty of time.

[AZ Chev]

So tear down has begun. As you can see, this truck has so many aftermarket parts under the hood. I'm thankful I was able to retrieve the engine from the donor truck. It has the correct carburetor, intake manifold, throttle linkage brackets, air cleaner, spacer, plug wire looms, etc. What I'm coming up short is OEM valve covers, AC brackets, Correct Crank pulley with AC belt sprocket, 4x4 dip stick and tube, and 4x4 exhaust manifolds.

[Bones72Super]

Awesome truck, I'll be following along
Were you able to save the windshield with trim and gasket intact?

I think I have a set of stock valve covers and I know I have 4x4 ram's horns on the engine I pulled from a K2500

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by AZ Chev

Thanks Pete for sharing your research. This one definitely has dark saddle for the door panels and seat belt retractors, dash pad was missing. Glad it all checked out. I have a 69 CST10 with saddle buckets, and the saddle on the interior parts of that truck are definitely lighter.

I'm signing in to watch!!

[best view]

Perfect machine for the tear down lol

[AZ Chev]

Originally Posted by Bones72Super

Awesome truck, I'll be following along
Were you able to save the windshield with trim and gasket intact?

I think I have a set of stock valve covers and I know I have 4x4 ram's horns on the engine I pulled from a K2500

Yes on the SS trim, no on the weather strip. I'll let you if I need the manifolds and valve covers, who knows, I may have the laying around somewhere. Welcome aboard

[AZ Chev]

Originally Posted by best view

Perfect machine for the tear down lol

That machine comes in handy for everything, moving frames, pulling engines, removing beds..... Everything.

[AZ Chev]

So I took all of the body panels to be sand blasted before rust repairs begin. I plan to start with a clean canvas, and once rust repairs are complete, the plan is to epoxy powder coat primer the whole body before re-assembling for fitment, then she comes back apart and goes to paint and body.

After removing the body, I found a little surprise. The transfer case adapter is cracked and has been brazed. One more item to add to the order list.

The frame looks great with no rust what soever, and no cracks. The loose front cross member is the only issue so far. Rad. support is rusted below battery, but repairable. It is being shipped out with the body panels for repair, and powder coating.

The last picture is of the battery cable. The object the cable is mounted to was loose, and there isn't an obvious location for re-attachment. Can anyone help on this? is this part original to the truck, and if so, can someone share a picture of where it goes? If original, was this part only present on the passenger's side? Driver's side didn't have one. It seems some time back I found a thread that mentioned these on this forum, and if my memory serves me correctly, it was a part for a 2wd truck, but I can't find it now.

Until next time....

[AZ Chev]

These images were right-side up when I attached them, not sure how to fix them, I know some of you all know how to do this, can you shoot me a PM so I get it right next time? Thanks.