door/fender gaps

[scott123]

I am good at the top and wide at the bottom on moth sides. Body lines hit just right.

I have new radiator support bushings. The only thing I can see is that maybe the core support is higher than it should be.

Is there a measurement check from the core support to the frame rails.

It is equally high off on both sides as if the fenders are higher in the front than they should be and the core supports just looks as if it is sitting high.

Wrong bushings? Not sure.

Scott

[CMars45000]

What is the condition of the cab mounts?? Sounds like the cab mounts might be smashed or sagging. You're theory that the core support is too high sounds correct, but it is easier to raise the front of the cab then lower the core support.

[scott123]

New bushings all the way around.

Not that I have put a million of them together but there looks like a 'larger' gap between the core support and the frame rail.

One side of the door gap or the other and I am checking the cab mounts. Odds of both sagging identically is possible, but a stretch.

Anyone got a truck apart to get a measurement from core support to frame rail?

I am sort of grasping.

Scott

[rpmerf]

my experience on this after changing my body mounts.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=772583

I ended up using the shims on the front cab mounts to get it close, then played with the door hinges to get the spacing better, then adjusted the striker to get it to close right. There was a lot of trial and error.

On your measurement request, I assume a C10? What year? I know C10 and C20 are different. I think some of the mounts changed over the years.

[MDPotter]

I'm interested to hear how this comes out. I was just looking at my new mounts last night in preparation to set my cab, doors, and fenders tomorrow and opened up the mount kit from SOKY and there are more bushings than I need. I ended up using the bushings which matched the originals in thickness and kept the rest as extras in case I need them. I know the rubber compresses over the years, but the old ones appear to have relaxed back to their original state since they've been off the truck for a few months.

I guess I'll know whether I need to switch out the bushings with thicker or thinner ones when I go to set the fenders.

[randy500]

Shim the cab up at the front mounts using a very large diameter washer. The factory used a large square shim at this location when needed.
Over time the cab mounts sag, the frame sags, etc. and New core support bushings generate the need for shimming.

[scott123]

It is a 69 4WD.

Shimming the cab may work. I will take a look at that a little later.

Scott

[randy500]

Shimming the cab is standard body-on-frame fitting procedure....

[scott123]

10-4. I will give it a try.

Thanks.

Scott

[weq92f]

.
For shimming I looked all over for body shims but ended up using big washers purchased from Lowes ( no rust ) which worked just fine!

A few weeks ago, I spied galvanized body shims in a bubble pack at Harbor Freight LOL!

Hth,

-klb

[57taskforce]

Yep I agree with the above, I had to shim my fronts to get everything happy when I put my cab back on the frame. It takes some time to get the lines and gaps right but it’s worth every second in the long run.