69 C10 no spark IT NEVER ENDS

[JFC10]

Hi all

Sorry to bother everyone with yet another question, but this forum has been very helpful. This is after installing the 350 back into my '69 C10...

I have no spark from my stock rebuilt points distributor. It worked before I pulled the engine, it was running.

Using a multimeter, I have 12 volts at the + post on the ignition coil. There is a yellow wire and a black wire on that + post.
I also have one black wiring going to the distributor on the - post of the coil.

I replaced the ignition cable (distributor to coil) and checked all the plug wires.
I replaced the ignition coil with a $15 chinese one.
I adjusted the points gap and can see it closing all the way and opening as the engine is cranked
I cleaned all the little leads where they attach to the coil and in the distributor
What could be wrong?

I know the ideal solution is to just get an HEI setup, but money is tight, I might just be a 19 yr old working out of his parents 3 car garage...

Is it possible that the black wire from the coil to distributor is fudged inside? The coil may have hung from it during teardown...
Any help is greatly appreciated thanks

[Steeveedee]

If possible, attach the light to the coil as before and see if the brightness fluctuates as you crank the engine. That will tell you if the points are truly opening and closing. The yellow wire is from the starter solenoid and provides power during cranking. Is it attached to the "R" terminal on the starter? Maybe check that, first.

[JFC10]

I double checked the wires on the starter, confirmed yellow is on R and purple is on S.
I put the test light on the coil wire, it lights up while the key is on and while cranking, although it doesn't get brighter or dinner or blink.
I tested continuity of all the wires coming to and off the distributor, they are all good. The coil wire going to the cap had high resistance, or I thought it did, so I made a new one and everything tests the same.

Is it true that the yellow wire gives the coil full voltage during cranking and the other is a resistor circuit?

I don't know what else to test, other than pull the distributor and inspect it in better light.

Thanks

[Mike C]

You shouldn't have 12v on the coil, it should be closer to 10 with the resistor wire for the points ignition. May be that your points are cooked or your condensor is out.

For $69 you can put a brand new HEI in it and I would highly recommend it. Starting improves, mileage improves, maintenance improves. Then you do need 12v to the distributor.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Mike C

You shouldn't have 12v on the coil, it should be closer to 10 with the resistor wire for the points ignition. May be that your points are cooked or your condensor is out.

For $69 you can put a brand new HEI in it and I would highly recommend it. Starting improves, mileage improves, maintenance improves. Then you do need 12v to the distributor.

What he said but with a caveat; only after you get the points unit working. It's a critical lesson in trouble shooting. Do not get in the habit of throwing new parts at a problem. I know that's not what MikeC was suggesting, he's just pointing out HEI is better.
Trouble shoot. Learn it love it!

After you get it running, you can move to electronic and will have a backup points unit. I wrung my hands over the HEI for a while. Love everything mechanical about my truck. I caved, but when I did I had a functioning unit.

Sorry for the side track. Get back to work!

[garyd1961]

Did you set the gap in the points?

[Mike C]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

What he said but with a caveat; only after you get the points unit working. It's a critical lesson in trouble shooting. Do not get in the habit of throwing new parts at a problem. I know that's not what MikeC was suggesting, he's just pointing out HEI is better.
Trouble shoot. Learn it love it!

After you get it running, you can move to electronic and will have a backup points unit. I wrung my hands over the HEI for a while. Love everything mechanical about my truck. I caved, but when I did I had a functioning unit.

Sorry for the side track. Get back to work!

I can't argue with that. I have 4 or 5 vehicles that still run using points and they are second nature.

[Steeveedee]

All good recommendations. The reason I said to check things out is because I have a friend who (in about '71) had a Corvette that died on him one day. So he threw a valve job and some extras at it. When it was done it wouldn't start. After diddling around with it for a couple of days, he accidentally bumped the condenser lead wire, and it pulled out of the NEW condenser, which he had put it not long before the car quit on him. One doesn't expect new parts to fail like that, but it happens. He should have dived into it before throwing all that money at it. Though it may have needed a valve job at that time.

[jeffahart]

Right about now JFC10 is crying because his ribs hurt. He is cursing that rear mounted distributor... "Oh I should have gotten a Ford he's saying!" Don't worry JFC10 there's a light at the end of the tunnel and it's not a train. It's that little trap door on the side of the distributor that allows you to dial in dwell with an allen wrench. Once you get her running, like I know your going to, buy or borrow a dwell meter and use it. You can get these puppies purring!

Sorry for the interruption... get back to work!


j

[HO455]

Did you paint the engine when it was out? If so maybe your distributor is no longer grounded properly through the clamp. Or the wire under the point mounting plate is broken. When you did the test with the test light did you put the lead on the coil post going to the distributor? In not that's why you had a constant light. If so then the fact your test light didn't flash or pulse means the points are not closing or the circuit between coil and points to ground is open. I am assuming that the ground straps to the engine to the battery are hooked up and working properly.