Need advice on a removed 350

[GASoline71]

Just a stock volume and stock pressure oil pump is all you need. Melling pumps are the best out there.

I know a lot of cats replace the pump to distributor shaft on every rebuild. I've used the 40+ year old shafts and been just fine. Just replace the nylon sleeve that holds it to the pump.

Gary

[msg]

Stock it is on the oil pump then.

If I were to attempt the valve spring and seal replacement, what is the best replacement parts for those? I was trying to look on Summit and couldnt find them with the filtering under part types once I had entered a 73 chevy c10 with a 5.7L.

[msg]

About the Valve Spring and seal replacement, I called Summit and found the reason its not just a simple product type list for a 1973 C-10 350 is that cams are sometimes replaced and the cam would have to be identified before you can just swap springs and valve seals out.

The recommendation Summit had was if I wanted to replace spings and seals was to replace the cam, lifters, valve springs and seals as well. This would mean pulling the heads off I think.

Here were the parts Summit recommended

Cam and Lifters
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1103

Spings set
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-174001

I think the cam thats in there was swapped out in the last rebuild, I found a few clips of the engine running I took before I started breaking everything down.
Maybe you can hear the sound of the engine on the clips.

[cableguy0]

No you still don't need to pull the heads. Yes they are correct. Springs should be matched to the cam. If your going to change cams skip their stuff. Summit brand cam and lifters are cheap and there isn't anything wrong with them HOWEVER they are very very old grinds. You will get a lot more power and driveability from a modern grind. If your going to swap cams go with the comp xe or lunati voodoo line. I prefer the Lunati voodoo stuff because they are extremely efficient grinds. That K1103 Summit grind is basically considered an rv cam you will hear the old guys talking about. You can still change springs without completely knowing the cam and likely the springs they picked for the cam they recommended will work just fine for you. Until you get into big lift and duration or change to roller cam springs are similar for most mild cams in a 350.

[Mr. D]

I opened the links to the video clips and can't really tell if the motor has a cam in it or not. I'm guessing not just by what it sounds like when it revs up.

I think at this point you should decide how far you want to go with a rebuild/partial rebuild before you sink any more money into parts.

If for example you want to increase performance (and if have some money to spend) there are lots of head replacement options out there, at which time you should get some advice on a good replacement cam to compliment the now "top-end rebuild" (which also means new lifters and springs and push rods). All of this can get pretty spendy, and at the end of the day, you still have a lot of miles on your low end (crank and rod bearings, rings and seals).
My advice at this point would be go all the way with your build and protect your investment by doing a complete rebuild, not just the top end. If you're planning to keep it for a while and drive it regularly.

The other option is to get out without spending a lot of money and leave the top end alone. (after-all, you've got good compression).

Generally speaking, with a chevy SB 350, there are endless rebuild possibilities.
In this case, if it were me I would leave the top end alone (maybe slip in a mild cam) without a complete top-end and save the $$$ for something else. Like better performing intake and carb (stock intake and GM Rochester 4-bl carb and completely lack-luster in the performance category.) Edelbrock performer series intake and holly/carter 600-650 cfm carb would add some performance and make a pretty nice addition.

This time you got more than my 2-cents.

Hope this makes sense.

[msg]

Cabeleguy, thanks for the input on the cam. Good to know about the quality of cams Summits got in its line. As far as the springs and valves go, I think at this point I'll leave well enough alone considering that I might louse up and get the slightly off size parts and muck things up.

Mr D. thanks for more than 2 cents. The option of not spending alot of money on this engine is where I believe I am heading. The money I save here would be saved up for an AC system. Im more interested in comfort these days. But that Quadrajet I had to look it up and I had a garage install that thing (paid $325) in 96 when I first bought the truck and had less of a clue on how to fix things. As far as carbs and intakes go I still dont have alot of smarts on whats good and not so good, Ill definitely be thinking about it in the future. I do intend on keeping this truck, the restore Im doing has been has been on my mind for many years.

Here is the build thread,

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=623848

I havent updated it in a while. I've been asking q's and getting advice in other threads like this one.

I took the carb and manifold off yesterday and here are the pics of the manifold

and this spot is gunked up a good bit, same on the other side



and here is a shot of the valley

[msg]

Got a few questions,

• On the timing cover, whats the best way to remove the front seal?
• On the intake manifold, is the plate that sits on the inside removable? The one that rests on pins. Seaam like it should but its so thin I didnt want to pry it off and bend it all up.
• Should the intake manifold be sandblasted? Oil pan and timing cover too since its got a fair amount of surface rust? Or is that not the best thing since granules could be hard to clean out and damage the engine later while its running?

[jjzepplin]

I usually just put on some safety glasses and slap a wire wheel on my 4" grinder and have at it. The intake tin can be removed and you WILL find a bunch of crud under there. The four small pins on the corners are just knurled and go in slightly turning. I like to bead blast my intakes as it is sooo much easier and they come out looking new.

[msg]

2 Things,

1 is I think I messed up the timing cover. I thought the metal ring was supposed to come out and I was not just pulling out the inner spring retainer and seal but I thought that outside part is supposed to pop out. Here is a shot of the seal area on the timing cover at an angle. Do I need to but a new timing cover now?

Also I was able to get 3 of the 4 pins off the intake manifold tin but the 4th one got mangled up. Might be shopping for a new tin if I cant repair it. There was a ton of crud in there like you said JJ..

[jjzepplin]

Your still good on the timing cover. That mangled metal is actually the seal casing. Go buy a new seal to see what you are dealing with. I use this trick a lot when entering a new area I am not familiar with. Get the replacement part and you will know how to attack replacing it. Usually I just set the cover on something soft like a folded old towel or moving blanket and hit the seal from the back side with a large screwdriver or pry it out from the front with a super large pry bar. I use a seal installer to replace.
WOW looky there now at that gunk. Bet your glad you didn't put that back on without looking in there first!

[msg]

Without thinking it through I had taken the oil pan, timing cover and intake manifold along with other parts to be sandblasted. I didnt think to tape of anything so they hit it all. Am I best to buy new parts now?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by msg

Without thinking it through I had taken the oil pan, timing cover and intake manifold along with other parts to be sandblasted. I didnt think to tape of anything so they hit it all. Am I best to buy new parts now?

No. Wash with soap and water, rinse, blow dry with compressed air.

Repeat if you feel it's necessary.

ONLY if your engine has EGR, beware if they left carbon behind in the exhaust cross-over, the sand can become imbedded and get into engine.

[Captainfab]

One area to pay close attention to is under the baffle in the oil pan. It is difficult to clean under there but the sand will stick to any oil residue under there.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

One area to pay close attention to is under the baffle in the oil pan. It is difficult to clean under there but the sand will stick to any oil residue under there.

Good catch, Captain!

[Brent7654]

Do yourself a huge favor spend a little extra on a fel pro one piece oil pan gasket. They seal excellent and are reusable.

As for the intake, I prefer the high performance fel pro gasket with the cork front and rear gasket. If using the standard, ditch the rubber front and rear and use a thick bead of silicone...

Brent.....

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

No you still don't need to pull the heads. Yes they are correct. Springs should be matched to the cam. If your going to change cams skip their stuff. Summit brand cam and lifters are cheap and there isn't anything wrong with them HOWEVER they are very very old grinds. You will get a lot more power and driveability from a modern grind. If your going to swap cams go with the comp xe or lunati voodoo line. I prefer the Lunati voodoo stuff because they are extremely efficient grinds. That K1103 Summit grind is basically considered an rv cam you will hear the old guys talking about. You can still change springs without completely knowing the cam and likely the springs they picked for the cam they recommended will work just fine for you. Until you get into big lift and duration or change to roller cam springs are similar for most mild cams in a 350.

I find your "old guys" comment somewhat hypocritical on your part. But, as a "team member" you can say whatever you want and get away with it.

[msg]

Its been over 4 years now but I thought I would continue this thread. Ive been learning how to do body work repairs and repainting and its taken a lot of time. Im getting close though and now the engine has been pulled out of storage, and with the help and guidance of a neighbor who has past experience with engine work I am back to working on it. I had purchased all of the parts based on the feedback you guys had given me and its been in a box for years.

[msg]

My neighbor is helping to lend a hand and suggested opening up the engine and seeing whats going on. So I have been taking apart the rocker arms, rods and lifters to inspect them. Im keeping track of which part went where and putting them aside.

[msg]

We have been looking at the lifters and seeing how concave the ends may be. Some are showing more wear than the others. The method of testing them has been to place the end of the lifter against the side of another lifter and seeing how much light passes through if any. All of them have a small gap of light showing, some a little more than others. Tonight I removed the heads and next we will look over the cylinders. Originally I wasnt planning to go this far and leave it be, but being able to learn like this from someone was something I couldnt pass up.

[geezer#99]

I kinda skimmed thru your thread!
One thing I might have missed.
Your motor identification.
First thing before throwing parts at a motor is to determine exactly what it is.
You need the casting number from behind the drivers side head and the numbers and letters from the pad in front of the passenger side head.
Do you have that info or a close up pic of them?

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I kinda skimmed thru your thread!
One thing I might have missed.
Your motor identification.
First thing before throwing parts at a motor is to determine exactly what it is.
You need the casting number from behind the drivers side head and the numbers and letters from the pad in front of the passenger side head.
Do you have that info or a close up pic of them?

Apologies!
Missed that link In your first post about your motor origin.

[msg]

No problem geezer, thanks for checking. The casting block shows 3970010 that its a 350 69-79 Truck 2 bolt main in my case

The numbers punched into the top right side front are
C5A146997 V0507TJH

These numbers were decoded last go round to be...

V= Flint Plant
05 = May
07 =Day
TJH= TJH is the suffix for a 1973 Chevy truck 350 with a manual trans

The heads are removed now and we are going to consider taking them in to be rebuilt. The prices Ive gotten range but close to $400 for the pair. They may not need to be though. Considering also that I take them in for an inspection and let the shop tell me what they might advise. The cam and lifters are so far the most highly likely to be replaced. That test I mentioned was done as pictured here. 5 of the lifters looked to be about like this..the rest some light was coming through but not this much.