Bonding adhesive for body panels...Anybody use this stuff before? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

70 Jimmy · 02-03-2003, 09:59 AM

I have some custom work I want to do and welding is not an options (actually grinding would be the problem). I'm concerned about rust under a sheetmetal over sheetmetal application (about 12" x 24") . Also, on adhesion, how well does this stuff hold? Is it user friendly?

BTW, I posted on paint and body and got no information so I posted here. Thanks

ChevLoRay · 02-03-2003, 11:32 AM

I had new floor pans and rockers installed at a body shop. Some of it was welded-in and some was installed with their adhesive system. I have had no problems with it at all. The way they use it seals the joint from air infiltration. Welding creates oxidation, so I am feeling pretty good about what I have. Hope this helps.

meathead95 · 02-03-2003, 11:44 AM

i believe snowman uses it you could ask him.

srhart71 · 02-03-2003, 02:48 PM

A good friend of mine owns a bodyshop in Michigan and he swears by this stuff. (No, not at it) Says it makes some repairs better than could be done with welding. He also brought up the sealing out of air.

Canada20 · 02-03-2003, 05:43 PM

I think we've discussed this one on here before too so it might be worth a look.

www.autobodystoreonline.com has people who know plenty about this stuff.

There's an Eastwood kit for this that sounds like it would do a pretty good job. Classic Trucks replaced a cab-corner in their Feb issue using the Eastwood kit. I'm interested in trying this method too. I've also talked to a guy in a body shop and most of their work is with adhesives now and he believes it's better than welding for non-structural things. He seems to me to be a non-bs kind of guy with lots of experience with repair.

Greg

mtdave2 · 02-03-2003, 06:32 PM

i used it on my sidecar. the stuff holds well, i dare say just as strong as weld. easy to put on too.

the down sides... cost a lot.. it well come loose when exspoed to lots of heat! this made a big mess for me. after i put on my sheet metal, i needed to weld a piece on the botton. the area of sheet metal around the weld started to come part from the frame... not good. i couldnt refuse it, had to reweld.. more heat,, more reweld. ended up welding the whole thing.

i promiced myself id never use it again (fuzeor it think its called)
however for some applications it would be just the stuff.

70 Jimmy · 02-03-2003, 08:29 PM

Cool. Here's what I'm hearing:

Easy
Works well for non-structural
Do all my welding on the panel first!
Be prepared to pay (any idea how much?)
Better than welding as far as oxidation is concerned.

Thanks!

DanoDMano · 02-03-2003, 08:34 PM

I used it for the patches on the holes from my Auxiliary fuel tanks. I am not sure if it was from the vibration from my bed jumping, or what, but it is now cracked through the paint, causing me much grief!!!

I am going to tach weld them this time, and grind!!!

68 Suburban · 02-03-2003, 09:10 PM

Ok, does this stuff need to be used with the repair panel overlapped, or can it be used where a butt weld would be used? If so, how is it applied for a butt weld? Thanks

Stano · 02-03-2003, 09:19 PM

I just used it today as a matter of fact, put a roof skin on a Tundra with it. Its made by 3M and is called Panelbond. I don't trust it but it does make for a nice finished result. You can't use it for a butt seam. For this type both metal surfaces have to be ground clean then you apply a fine bead to both bare surfaces and spread it over the bare metal with a spreader if you will. Then you apply another bead on top of the skim layer to actually bond the panels together. Then it must be clamped tightly until dry or about 24 hours to be safe. We have had a couple bed sides come back with cracking of seams though. I will have to let time show me that its as good as they say it is. It has miniscule glass beads in it to keep from squeezing it all out when it is clamped. It does work well as a plastic repair and on fiberglass.

Blue Beard · 02-03-2003, 09:26 PM

Have you looked into using something like POR-15 over it when finished?

Canada20 · 02-03-2003, 09:59 PM

I've heard a couple of different ways of clamping;

Use regular body clamps,
Use sheetmetal screw and grind them off when you're done,
Use rivets instead of screws. Not like I'm a salesman for Eastwood or anything but from that writeup in Classic Trucks, they have a dimpling tool (which I'm sure could be home-made) that you use once you've drilled the holes for the rivets or the screws. That way there's a metal spike going through the panels every few inches.

As for the butt vs lap method; usually the write ups say just pick a spot that it's going to be less conspicuous to overlap the pieces and use kitty-hair as a filler but I've been thinking that if a person were to take a strip of metal a couple of inches wide to span the gap between the panels, you could usse that as a backing and it would make for a more invisible patch. (Holy run-on sentence, batman!) Again, referring to that article...that apparently works.

Greg

matt_field · 02-03-2003, 10:10 PM

ive talked to a body guy in town here , and hes actually said hes seen the panels fall off before. so he doenst use it

DanoDMano · 02-03-2003, 10:16 PM

I screwed the panels in, and ground down the heads and it held up for ahile. But I think that because of the jolting my bed got that it just
cracked loose around the edges.

The stuff is great to work with though, and I think I would still use it for patching my fuel hole when I relocate my tank!!!

68 Suburban · 02-04-2003, 12:42 AM

What is the process for finishing the panel after it cures? Does it sand easily?

DanoDMano · 02-04-2003, 01:10 AM

We ground mine down, and body puddied til nice and smooth. It really came out nice except for the stress cracking.

I'll post a few pictures tomorrow of the cracking I am experiencing..

02-03-2003, 09:59 AM	#1
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	Bonding adhesive for body panels...Anybody use this stuff before? I have some custom work I want to do and welding is not an options (actually grinding would be the problem). I'm concerned about rust under a sheetmetal over sheetmetal application (about 12" x 24") . Also, on adhesion, how well does this stuff hold? Is it user friendly? BTW, I posted on paint and body and got no information so I posted here. Thanks __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

02-03-2003, 11:32 AM	#2
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	I had new floor pans and rockers installed at a body shop. Some of it was welded-in and some was installed with their adhesive system. I have had no problems with it at all. The way they use it seals the joint from air infiltration. Welding creates oxidation, so I am feeling pretty good about what I have. Hope this helps. __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

02-03-2003, 11:44 AM	#3
meathead95 computer illiterate Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Des Moines, IA Posts: 6,446	i believe snowman uses it you could ask him. __________________ 72 2wd blazer 72 swb 4x4

02-03-2003, 05:43 PM	#5
Canada20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 802	I think we've discussed this one on here before too so it might be worth a look. www.autobodystoreonline.com has people who know plenty about this stuff. There's an Eastwood kit for this that sounds like it would do a pretty good job. Classic Trucks replaced a cab-corner in their Feb issue using the Eastwood kit. I'm interested in trying this method too. I've also talked to a guy in a body shop and most of their work is with adhesives now and he believes it's better than welding for non-structural things. He seems to me to be a non-bs kind of guy with lots of experience with repair. Greg __________________ No such thing as a stupid question, right?

02-03-2003, 06:32 PM	#6
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,507	i used it on my sidecar. the stuff holds well, i dare say just as strong as weld. easy to put on too. the down sides... cost a lot.. it well come loose when exspoed to lots of heat! this made a big mess for me. after i put on my sheet metal, i needed to weld a piece on the botton. the area of sheet metal around the weld started to come part from the frame... not good. i couldnt refuse it, had to reweld.. more heat,, more reweld. ended up welding the whole thing. i promiced myself id never use it again (fuzeor it think its called) however for some applications it would be just the stuff. __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

02-03-2003, 02:48 PM	#4
srhart71 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: China Grove, NC Posts: 147	A good friend of mine owns a bodyshop in Michigan and he swears by this stuff. (No, not at it) Says it makes some repairs better than could be done with welding. He also brought up the sealing out of air.

02-03-2003, 08:29 PM	#7
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	Cool. Here's what I'm hearing: Easy Works well for non-structural Do all my welding on the panel first! Be prepared to pay (any idea how much?) Better than welding as far as oxidation is concerned. Thanks! __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

02-03-2003, 08:34 PM	#8
DanoDMano Pronounced "Pew-al-up" Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Puyallup, Washington Posts: 845	I used it for the patches on the holes from my Auxiliary fuel tanks. I am not sure if it was from the vibration from my bed jumping, or what, but it is now cracked through the paint, causing me much grief!!! I am going to tach weld them this time, and grind!!! __________________ Classic GM Trucks of Washington Club Member 1970 FS chevy,350/350, Edelbrock cam and intake. Holley 650 carb,HEI,AT,Tangier Orange, 18's, Power Locks, Truck Photos

02-03-2003, 09:10 PM	#9
68 Suburban Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ Posts: 6,802	Ok, does this stuff need to be used with the repair panel overlapped, or can it be used where a butt weld would be used? If so, how is it applied for a butt weld? Thanks

02-03-2003, 09:19 PM	#10
Stano Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Mo Posts: 963	I just used it today as a matter of fact, put a roof skin on a Tundra with it. Its made by 3M and is called Panelbond. I don't trust it but it does make for a nice finished result. You can't use it for a butt seam. For this type both metal surfaces have to be ground clean then you apply a fine bead to both bare surfaces and spread it over the bare metal with a spreader if you will. Then you apply another bead on top of the skim layer to actually bond the panels together. Then it must be clamped tightly until dry or about 24 hours to be safe. We have had a couple bed sides come back with cracking of seams though. I will have to let time show me that its as good as they say it is. It has miniscule glass beads in it to keep from squeezing it all out when it is clamped. It does work well as a plastic repair and on fiberglass. __________________ New daily driver 96 Chevy K3500 crew cab dually 53,000 miles 350 Vortec 4L80 Nice ride 67 Chevy C-10 LWB Built 350 TH-400 Wifes ride and family rig: 2001 Furd Expedition 5.4 Liter Kickin back in Rolla,Mo. USA "Do the thing you fear most and the death of fear is certain" Mark Twain

02-03-2003, 09:26 PM	#11
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	Have you looked into using something like POR-15 over it when finished? __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

02-03-2003, 09:59 PM	#12
Canada20 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 802	I've heard a couple of different ways of clamping; Use regular body clamps, Use sheetmetal screw and grind them off when you're done, Use rivets instead of screws. Not like I'm a salesman for Eastwood or anything but from that writeup in Classic Trucks, they have a dimpling tool (which I'm sure could be home-made) that you use once you've drilled the holes for the rivets or the screws. That way there's a metal spike going through the panels every few inches. As for the butt vs lap method; usually the write ups say just pick a spot that it's going to be less conspicuous to overlap the pieces and use kitty-hair as a filler but I've been thinking that if a person were to take a strip of metal a couple of inches wide to span the gap between the panels, you could usse that as a backing and it would make for a more invisible patch. (Holy run-on sentence, batman!) Again, referring to that article...that apparently works. Greg __________________ No such thing as a stupid question, right?

02-03-2003, 10:10 PM	#13
matt_field Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota Posts: 885	ive talked to a body guy in town here , and hes actually said hes seen the panels fall off before. so he doenst use it __________________ 1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles

02-03-2003, 10:16 PM	#14
DanoDMano Pronounced "Pew-al-up" Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Puyallup, Washington Posts: 845	I screwed the panels in, and ground down the heads and it held up for ahile. But I think that because of the jolting my bed got that it just cracked loose around the edges. The stuff is great to work with though, and I think I would still use it for patching my fuel hole when I relocate my tank!!! __________________ Classic GM Trucks of Washington Club Member 1970 FS chevy,350/350, Edelbrock cam and intake. Holley 650 carb,HEI,AT,Tangier Orange, 18's, Power Locks, Truck Photos

02-04-2003, 12:42 AM	#15
68 Suburban Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ Posts: 6,802	What is the process for finishing the panel after it cures? Does it sand easily?



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02-04-2003, 01:10 AM	#16
DanoDMano Pronounced "Pew-al-up" Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Puyallup, Washington Posts: 845	We ground mine down, and body puddied til nice and smooth. It really came out nice except for the stress cracking. I'll post a few pictures tomorrow of the cracking I am experiencing.. __________________ Classic GM Trucks of Washington Club Member 1970 FS chevy,350/350, Edelbrock cam and intake. Holley 650 carb,HEI,AT,Tangier Orange, 18's, Power Locks, Truck Photos

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.