Carrier Bearing ?

[Ryan5O]

lol, it seems like were making something thats simple to do sound hard. Im sure that theres someone out there thats pretty confused by now.

[68 IRON]

Ya that would be me....just a little. I've only dealt with one long drive line. But I think I can work around it. I'll just mark each u-joint at each point (who knows if PO put it back together correctly) and tap, press or lightly beat the carrier off the shaft (reverse for install of carrier) and set everything back from once it came....is this how it should go? How about...what are the signs of a carrier bearing startin' to fail?

[Ryan5O]

I think you've got a good grasp of it. Remember the caps on the ujoints can come off once you take it apart. If so, just dont loose the needle bearings if they fall out; you can put them back. Ive heard multiple opinions when it comes to when to replace the carrier bearing. I guess it really depends on how picky you are. Personally, if its make some noise and it shifts around when I move the drive shaft, I would replace it. Some people arent bothered by that.

I would rate this a 5 or 6 out a 10 when it comes to mechanical difficulty. No big deal, really. Just one of those scenarios that can become a pain, because your dealing with parts they may not have been touched in 40 years.

[ItsRandy]

Originally Posted by eightbanger

Correction!....In my haste to explain how simple this task is I forgot that once the CS is installed on the DS it of course now spins as it's supposed to, therfore making it even simpler to install the forward half without the need for any orientation whatsoever.

Your neighbors must get a kick out of you driving that old American truck...with a Big Block I might add.

[my_bucket]

When I put my truck in reverse it shakes really really bad like I don't no how 2 use a clutch would that be a sign the carrier bearing is bad?
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[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by Ryan5O

I think you've got a good grasp of it. Remember the caps on the ujoints can come off once you take it apart. If so, just dont loose the needle bearings if they fall out; you can put them back. Ive heard multiple opinions when it comes to when to replace the carrier bearing. I guess it really depends on how picky you are. Personally, if its make some noise and it shifts around when I move the drive shaft, I would replace it. Some people arent bothered by that.

I would rate this a 5 or 6 out a 10 when it comes to mechanical difficulty. No big deal, really. Just one of those scenarios that can become a pain, because your dealing with parts they may not have been touched in 40 years.

Like Ryan said...only with a 2/3 outa 10.

Originally Posted by ItsRandy

Your neighbors must get a kick out of you driving that old American truck...with a Big Block I might add.

The neighbor on one side loves the sound, and comes round when I work on it, I think the other side wish I would move away....

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by Ryan5O

lol, it seems like were making something thats simple to do sound hard. Im sure that theres someone out there thats pretty confused by now.

apparently it is harder than it sounds, I have to repare several drivelines a week that "mechanics" just fixed and it usually cost $100 more to fix it after what the mechanic messed up.
me personally as a professional this is a job I'd do at home then take the shat in to have it balanced before I reinstalled the shaft.

[kev2809]

i know this is old, but i would like to ask something.

lets say u carelessly took it apart..replaced all joints and carrier bearing. do u take it like that to get balanced? or do they balance it seperately?
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[hayhauler71]

Take the complete shaft and have it balanced

[50bomb]

The first time I had to change all the ujoints out and the carrier bearing I had to get a longer front driveshaft for the sbc350/th350 setup. Well then I decided I wanted to put in a L6 250/th350 and I had to install the original shorter driveshaft back. haha It was a PAIN first time and second time but I got it all in now. I did not take it to get balanced I dont see why? Seems really solid now. I havent drove this truck yet.

[Coursey]

I replaced my bearing because it was squeking (the robber was wore out).

Mine has a metal guard on each side of the bearing. I reinstalled the guards when i installed the new bearing. I am still having a squeak. I think these metal guards maybe rubbing the rubber on the bearing. Is it necassary to have these guards installed?

Thought about takeing the guards off to see if that helps.

[Davidf]

WD40 is an effective short term squeak eliminator. Spray between guard and rubber. If squeak stops, you know your cause and go from there with permanent fix.

[slikside]

I made this repair to my truck about 30 years ago as a kid. I don't remember actually marking anything on disassembly. Maybe I paid attention real close when I took it all apart...but that strikes me now as a rare circumstance then.

Anyway, it all went back together well, and that bearing is the one still on the truck to this day. I'd say it's been about 100,000 miles since then.

I think I was lucky. Given the same today, I would probably have it balanced before reinstalling.

[Faastone27]

I know I am bringing back a really old thread, But didn't see a need to start a new one! before i go to the trouble of changing my CSB should there not be any movement within the bearing? Seems like the bearing is fine but the rubber around it seems a little "spongy" and therefore there is play inside the housing itself.

[Mike_82_Shortbox]

Hey guys, this totally stumped me. I have an 82 Chevy C 10 short box, and whenever I had the thing fully loaded, I would hear something rubbing. I thought it was the tires, but I never could see where they were rubbing or what on.

After I swapped my rear end for a 3:73 12-bolt posi, I painted my driveshaft chrome. A funny thing to do but I thought it looked cool. The next time I heard the rubbing sound after I had the truck loaded down, I looked under there and I noticed black marks about two thirds of the way up my driveshaft. I looked above it,and I saw this giant bracket riveted to a crossmember on the frame. I immediately knew that this bracket was for a carrier bearing, but I never heard of any Chevy C 10 with a carrier bearing.

I've owned a couple of Chevy Impalas that had a two-piece driveline with a carrier bearing. I have never in my life heard of a Chevy pickup with one. Mine apparently had one at the beginning of it's life.

My question is, what model of Chevy C 10 had a two-piece driveline? And why?

[Accelo]

My 1970 6-cylinder three speed truck had a two-piece drive line from the factory. I thought this was interesting as it a SWB truck.
Typically, when the drivelines get longer, engineering will add the carrier bearing and/or increase driveline diameter.
The larger diameter is to combat driveline whip. As an example, the front drive line is short and and only requires a small in diameter for this reason. The longer they get the bigger around drivelines get. This is required to combat whip. The longer the length and the higher the speed the more tendency to whip. It makes sense that newer vehicles with Overdrive transmission tend to have more whip issues. Just look at the diameter of some of the newer truck’s drivelines, they are huge. Drivelines also have critical speeds. You want to stay below the critical speeds of the driveline or bad things happen quickly. Extremely low differential ratios combined with high rpm motors and a overdrive transmission can be problematic.
BTW I don’t consider a joint change as a low-tech easy job. Too many people use hammers instead of a press. They tend to dent the tube when inserting it into a vise to beat the joint out. If the removal force is in the wrong spot the mechanic will typically bend the yolk ears getting the driveline apart. I can tell you most the drive-lines I work on have been abused by a mechanic in the past.
Cheers.