Color sand all panels?

[CC69Rat]

Try fixing computers and listening to people complain all day. Id jump at the chance to paint if I was good enough not to starve. 22 years in IT and Id walk away tomorrow. I really enjoy painting.
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[CEE1NG_RED]

nICE. Any how to/step-by-step on painting??

[ryanmctee]

My color-sanding and buffing is finally complete for this project. Yesterday I finished the bed, which was my last item to sand/buff. I am VERY happy with how my truck turned out, and can't wait to finish the project 100% so I can WASH it and get some real pictures to show you. Again, thanks to all for your input, ideas, and advise. This wouldn't have turned out as nice as it did with out you! Now it's time to re-pay the forum with a step by step of what I did:

1. Sanded entire truck with DA sander and 180 grit paper
2. Did necessary bodywork using Evercoat Rage and Evercoat Easy Sand glazing putty.
3. Primed truck with Kirker 2k Perfect Prime
4. Blocked truck to 600 grit and re-primed and glazed SEVERAL times; probably 5-6 each
5. Sprayed Kirker Ultra-Glo single stage urethane paint with HVLP spray gun.
6. Sprayed Kirker Pro Flo urethane clear coat (I know I didn't have to spray clear over single stage, but just wanted to)
7. Started color-sanding with a 3m foam pad. 1200 - 1500 - 2000 - 2500 grit
8. Buffed the truck starting with a wool bonnet and 3m rubbing compound. Then foam pad with Meguires swirl remover, then foam pad with Meguires show car glaze.

I hope this little re-cap can help anybody with any questions. While I'm no expert at painting/sanding/buffing, feel free to shoot me any questions you may have. I am more than glad to return a favor, as so many have helped me!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

You are incredible man.. really. Stuff like this takes years to learn and perfect. It seems you just have a touch for it. Its like you become one with the paint young jedi.

This is show quality work, no doubt.
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Thanks, but I can't take credit for all of it! Most of the techniques I use aren't "mine", just tricks I've learned from others or variations of similar techniques.

Originally Posted by screaminchevypickup

Lol that's easy to say when you don't do it everyday!!
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So true!! I'm ready to quit paintwork and start doing metalwork full-time instead. Not that I don't like what I'm doing; it just takes a very long time to do the metal/body/paint work to a very high standard and not many people can afford it. Metalwork has much quicker turn-around time, and more people can afford it; they are usually just getting into the early stages of their resto and aren't spent-out yet! Also, alot of shops around here won't touch restoration-type metalwork, so I'd hope to have plenty to keep me busy once word got around. No EPA/DHEC regulations to deal with either.

Originally Posted by ryanmctee

My color-sanding and buffing is finally complete for this project...

It looks awesome! You did a great job on it, and I can't wait to see the "real pictures"!

[SeventyOne]

This thread is amazing. It has really changed my mind on whether I want to attempt my own paint job once the time comes.

Just take your time, use the right techniques, and your hard work will be rewarding!

[ryanmctee]

I can honestly say this has been the most rewarding experience I've had with a vehicle. ANYONE can pay someone else to paint their truck. It's an awesome feeling when peopel look at my truck and say "YOU PAINTED THAT?" And it's not like I don't have any skills, just most people are way to afraid to tackle something as large as a quality paint job. GO FOR IT!!!!!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

This thread is amazing. It has really changed my mind on whether I want to attempt my own paint job once the time comes.

Just take your time, use the right techniques, and your hard work will be rewarding!

Exactly!! I've always said, if "they" can do it, why can't I? With the right understanding of how something works from good instruction, using proper techniques, and plenty of practice, anyone can do well at whatever it is once they get the hang of it. The biggest part is understanding why you're doing something a certain way- understading the reason the techinique works. Then you'll know how to practice the right way, and will have great results from taking your time and paying attention to what you're doing!

[CC69Rat]

Im learning as I go. Thats really the best way IMO.. whats the worst thing that can happen? I get to do it again!
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[yfs200p]

Just took a while and read this whole thread. I am just about finishing up metal work on my cab, and getting ready to start sanding and priming. I was going to have it painted professionally, but now i really think i might try it myself. Awesome thread! I cant believe how amazing those look after cutting and buffing. That little cross-section diagram was really interesting for me to see what your actually doing by wet sanding. And Ryan, the step by step list is great too for a guy like me who has never done this stuff before.

One question: when sanding panels to bare metal, an etching (epoxy) primer should be used first, correct? But also, is there a real need to sand to bare metal on an original paint cab?

[screaminchevypickup]

You should use your epoxy primer first then move onto your choice of high build primer.. Taking it all the way to bare metal is kinda your choice! I think I turns out a better result if the paint is completely removed on old paint.. That's just my 2 cents.
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[theastronaut]

I would reccomend completely stripping it. The modern primers are far superior to the original paint/primers and you'll know exactly what is under your new paint. I saw a picture once where a guy was stripping pretty decent looking original paint in a fenderwell and found very light rust "trails" that we're creeping/spreading under the surface of the original paint. The paint looked fine before he stripped it with no visible signs of the rust underneath.
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[hugger6933]

yfs, let me clear some thing up for you. epoxy primer and etching primer are like calling cats and dogs animals and pets . that statement is trues and correct but they are not the same. and now about the stripping the thing about the rust tracking under the paint I have seen it many times it happens from a rock chip and the primer from the factory just is or was'nt made to last 40+yrs. , back then they thought they are just trucks if they last 5or 6 yrs most will be happy and we will sell more so that was not an issue and they were not the price of a family dwelling then either. Jim

[yfs200p]

Good info.

Now, one last question... Would anyone say that there is any advantage to shooting single stage with clear over it, as opposed to a base/clear? Or is there no real difference?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by yfs200p

Good info.

Now, one last question... Would anyone say that there is any advantage to shooting single stage with clear over it, as opposed to a base/clear? Or is there no real difference?

I've heard that it makes for a "deeper" look than spraying over base, but haven't really heard/seen any hard evidence for that. I think any "depth" on solid colors will come from how well its wetsanded/buffed. I sprayed clear over SS on the blue '65, but that was just because I didn't like the way the SS came out. You'd need to wait and wetsand the SS, or atleast scuff it well before spraying the clear over it. Using base/clear would make for a thinner build thickness vs spraying SS and clear, and generally you want the subtrate under the clear as thin as possible for less chances of having problems later. Those are just my thoughts though; there are a ton of more knowledgeable people than me on here.

[CC69Rat]

Respectable opinion and 'professional' opinion are different depending on who you ask I guess. What works for some may or may not work for others, but what works best for me as someone just trying to help and learn as I go. .. I would do BC/CC. BUT, that doesn't mean you can't get a good looking paint job out of SS/CC. I am 39, and not new to paint and body. I'm just new to painting .. make sense? (Gun in my hand instead of someone else's) I know quality paint work when I see it and have judged very large shows. I just like the look of BC/CC better personally.

That said, I have seen paint jobs come out of garages that look killer, and others who paid $10k for something that looks like it was painted with a broom.

99% of it is patience and technique. What I'm saying is it's really the opinion of the painter and what has worked for them over the years.

[ryanmctee]

Now from the real rookie. This is my third paint job in 20 years. My first was a Honda hatchback in highschool, then I painted my 1990 Jeep (with Rustoleum enamel out of a cup gun), and finally this truck. I went with the single stage with clear over it. My only reasoning was that the clear should provide some extra protection for the single stage. I picked single stage, because Kirker had it available, was inexpensive, and seemed easy to spray. I can say that if I had to do it over again, I would do it exactly the same. I am extremely happy with the final result.

[CC69Rat]

Ryan - I think the patience is what made your truck what it is. Had you used BC/CC or SS, or spray cans / roller .. the point is you did the absolute best you can do and it shows. The paint is only going to be as good as what's underneath it. You said you blocked this truck many times over and I know what you put into it when you buffed it.

Anyone can paint. The more I relax and just be patient the better I do personally. I don't have a lot of experience but I have the patience of Job. If I find a shop in the near future I just might prove what I can do.

[82chevylsx]

very very nice.....leared alot and can't wait to try it also alot of good info.......keep up the good work.....

[ryanmctee]

Here's a couple of pictures after the first wash job. Just thought those who have been following this thread would like to see what the finished product looked like. Again, thanks to all for your input and support on this topic. Ryan

[CC69Rat]

Clean .. I like it man. You can tell that thing is super slick too.

Great job !

[theastronaut]

Very nice truck, and the paint looks sick!!

[crossy]

ryan, or should I say BORN TOO LATE(isn't that what your license plate is saying?) -COOL.
Anyway back on the original question you mentioned that you sprayed urethane clear over single stage urethane color (not BC/CC). After the color is on how long did you wait to shoot the clear over it and what did you sand it with? thanx, crossy

[wilkin250r]

I don't want to derail Ryan's thread, but I also like to have lots of information in the same place.

How would these techniques apply to a satin finish? Would you possibly lay down a couple layers of clear, sand it smooth, then shoot a final layer of clear with a flattening agent added to it?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by wilkin250r

I don't want to derail Ryan's thread, but I also like to have lots of information in the same place.

How would these techniques apply to a satin finish? Would you possibly lay down a couple layers of clear, sand it smooth, then shoot a final layer of clear with a flattening agent added to it?

I've had good results spraying satin clear without having to take those extra steps, just do two good coats with a quality clear. The more coats you use the more chance you have of messing up, and the with the higher solids clears you don't need a ton of coats for durability/UV protection. Another recent thread (titled- Can this be saved?) has info on "urethane wave" that happens when too much high solids clear is applied.

Here's a few shots of a Jeep I shot that shows the texture of the clear. I sprayed two coats of PPG 2021 clear with One Choice Matting Agent.

[wayne4252004]

Great works guys. Your, paints jobs look sick. Thanks for starting this thread it has been very informative. Again great job.