Epoxy primer and sealer questions

[dz1087]

I’m going to use epoxy primer to cover the old paint on the cab and hood and cowl after sanding the old paint down thoroughly. My doors, fenders, and entire bed is repro EDC metal. After thoroughly scuffing up the EDC panels, should I spray epoxy on these panels?

I’m going to use 2k primer surfacer and block. Painting white top and a copper/orange metallic two stage. Do I need to use a sealer on top of the primer surfacer?

[ApacheNick]

Originally Posted by dz1087

I’m going to use epoxy primer to cover the old paint on the cab and hood and cowl after sanding the old paint down thoroughly. My doors, fenders, and entire bed is repro EDC metal. After thoroughly scuffing up the EDC panels, should I spray epoxy on these panels?

I’m going to use 2k primer surfacer and block. Painting white top and a copper/orange metallic two stage. Do I need to use a sealer on top of the primer surfacer?

I sprayed epoxy over all my replacement panels just because less masking. I really don't think it will hurt anything but I'm not a painter.

[MDPotter]

If your original paint is lacquer or acrylic, the epoxy will melt it and wrinkle. So unless you know for sure that it's not, you should strip it to bare metal.

I sprayed my EDP panels with epoxy. A reduced coat of epoxy (sealer) prior to base/clear for better adhesion.

Check the data sheet for your 2K. Some are okay with painting over it, some aren't. But a coat of reduced epoxy as a sealer is cheap insurance and it helps with coverage.

[projectking]

Solvent wipe it with lacquer thinner on a rag and if it rubs off it has to go. I remove it because I don’t trust a Taiwan stamping plant to guarantee my work!

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by projectking

Solvent wipe it with lacquer thinner on a rag and if it rubs off it has to go. I remove it because I don’t trust a Taiwan stamping plant to guarantee my work!

I've wiped all the panels and they are pretty solid. Nothing coming off.

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

If your original paint is lacquer or acrylic, the epoxy will melt it and wrinkle. So unless you know for sure that it's not, you should strip it to bare metal.

I sprayed my EDP panels with epoxy. A reduced coat of epoxy (sealer) prior to base/clear for better adhesion.

Check the data sheet for your 2K. Some are okay with painting over it, some aren't. But a coat of reduced epoxy as a sealer is cheap insurance and it helps with coverage.

Sounds smart on the 2K data sheet.

[dz1087]

So, here's another question:

Since I'm using new panels, should I scuff and epoxy, then seal?

Or just scuff and seal?

Seem a bit redundant to spray epoxy on the EDC panels just to allow them to dry and need to be re-scuffed prior to base coat. The difference here would be that I wait to spray any epoxy on the EDC panels until I get them back on the truck and fitted prior to base coat, or I go ahead and spray them now but have to scuff them up again in a few weeks when I shoot the base coat.

Thoughts?

[mongocanfly]

you can topcoat epoxy if you do it within the recoat window...no scuffing needed...main thing is you need all your panels the same product and color before you paint

[MDPotter]

The beauty of epoxy is its recoat window. If your EDP is in good shape and you don't have any breakthroughs to bare steel, there is nothing wrong with scuffing and going straight to sealer. I did that on my front bed panel and tailgate.

[projectking]

I would scuff and a apply a wet coat of epoxy, if you’re ready to paint and outside the recoat, scuff, seal with reduced epoxy, and paint

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by projectking

I would scuff and a apply a wet coat of epoxy, if you’re ready to paint and outside the recoat, scuff, seal with reduced epoxy, and paint

I think this is what I'm leaning toward. Going to wet-coat the hood, cab, and cowl, then 2k primer as those are the only old panels on the truck anymore. Then once I'm finished block sanding and such, use reduced epoxy over the 2k primer as a sealer, and a wet-coat of epoxy over the EDC panels as a sealer.

Anything terribly wrong with that approach?

[projectking]

Spot prime any bare metal and allow 45 mins between your full coat. I’ve never seen new bedsides that didn’t need minor repair and blocking to look perfect...

[Foot Stomper]

Unless you put epoxy primer on bare metal, you are completely wasting your time and money.

Epoxy primer only works on bare steel because it's designed to stop rust creep. If you get a stone chip or scratch anything under the epoxy will not stop the creep... even if epoxy is on top... it needs to be directly applied to the bare steel to do it's sole purpose.

Best process is strip the EDP, epoxy prime and carry on. It's not a big deal to red scotch brite the panel when you want to apply high build urethane primer or paint.

[projectking]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

Unless you put epoxy primer on bare metal, you are completely wasting your time and money.

Epoxy primer only works on bare steel because it's designed to stop rust creep. If you get a stone chip or scratch anything under the epoxy will not stop the creep... even if epoxy is on top... it needs to be directly applied to the bare steel to do it's sole purpose.

Best process is strip the EDP, epoxy prime and carry on. It's not a big deal to red scotch brite the panel when you want to apply high build urethane primer or paint.

I agree 100%, I put no stock in Taiwan applied coatings. However epoxy over the EDP is a better choice than a 2k