2001 6.0 LS w/ 220K. is it worth it?

[67see10]

There is a 2001 6.0 LS with 220k miles on it. The seller states that the motor is still in the truck and runs great but have the typical lifter noise. It comes with the complete wiring harness, accessories, and pcm. He is asking $600. Is the engine worth it and is the lifter noise an easy fix?

[mongocanfly]

I'm guessing lq4 since its a 6.0 and in a truck..at 220k I would run thru the normal engine buying checks but its well worth 600 if it checks out...through a rebuild kit in it and go...not sure about lifter noise..may just need a cam and lifters

[67see10]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I'm guessing lq4 since its a 6.0 and in a truck..at 220k I would run thru the normal engine buying checks but its well worth 600 if it checks out...through a rebuild kit in it and go...not sure about lifter noise..may just need a cam and lifters

What's the "normal engine buying checks"?

Also there is another engine for sale for around the same price by a different seller. It's a 2013 5.3 LS from a Yukon XL. It runs but it has a cylinder 4 misfire.

[mongocanfly]

normal checks would be check water and oil...make sure the two arnt mixed ,,, pull valve covers to check cleanliness...check sparkplugs...do a compression test..leak down test is better if you have time..stick a code reader in it and check for faults..
a misfire 5.3 should show up on code reader ...but I would do the same checks..

[67see10]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

normal checks would be check water and oil...make sure the two arnt mixed ,,, pull valve covers to check cleanliness...check sparkplugs...do a compression test..leak down test is better if you have time..stick a code reader in it and check for faults..
a misfire 5.3 should show up on code reader ...but I would do the same checks..

okay thanks

[LeesTruk]

You need to really think this through, before you buy! With the 6.0L, it's a "basic" engine, cable throttle most likely, and that's it. Machine work may set you back roughly $1,500 (give or take), but then you've got a sound platform to drive as is, or whatever. With the newer 5.3L, it's DBW, so you gotta get a pedal assy., and TAC module to make it run. Is that part of the deal? Then, you gotta deal with DOD and VVT. You gonna keep that or buy stuff to delete those? You could end up spending more bucks just to get to the same starting point as the 6.0L purchase. While any LS swap is attractive, they can be very expensive, once you get started. Found this out when I did my swap (5.3L/4L60E in a C10)

[Clyde65]

I was always led to believe the 2000-2001 6.0's weren't the best because of the heads alone. I'd check it out even further before you buy.

[indymachinist]

Should have 317 heads? Those are fine. The iron heads were from 1999-2000 and should be easy to tell apart.