Frame weight, methods for a mobile frame & powder coat

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

This frame is for a SWB. For what it's worth, I live in a dry climate. :


I'm second guessing my plan to spray the frame and stripping it the hard way, in favor of having it sandblasted, and possibly powder coated. If it's powder coated then obviously the frame must be mobile.

What do you figure a SWB frame weighs, with or without the engine & transmission cross members removed?

Ideas for transferring a frame, both dollies of some sort and trailer? I don't have the capacity to build out of metal. Near as I can tell, I could do this with just furniture dollies.


I'm contemplating having parts that were black satin (e.g., brackets, core support) and black phosphate (e.g., hood hinges & latch) powder coated. I've only read two downsides to powder coating. One is if scratched, you have the option to ignore it or do it over. The other is separation, from I believe sharp edges and such. Have you guys experienced this separation? Seems say a hood hinge and spring might be the worst offenders, but I see many are powder coated.

Other than that seems powder coat is a great way to go. Saves time, looks amazing, and really, it doesn't appear to be much more expensive than paint. You could argue less expensive.


Thank you

[harpo231]

Seperation in powder coating is a result of different sized particles in the powder and is up to the coater to test this . We required an impact test,cross-hatch and x-ray florescence for thickness .

[B. W.]

I've not powder coated a truck frame but what I've seen on this forum is most guys blow the frame apart for coating & then bolt it back together. Makes it easier to transport & easier to get the nooks & crannys when powder coating.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by B. W.

I've not powder coated a truck frame but what I've seen on this forum is most guys blow the frame apart for coating & then bolt it back together. Makes it easier to transport & easier to get the nooks & crannys when powder coating.

Makes sense, but at this point I'm not a fan of cutting rivets.

[B. W.]

Me neither, I think rivets are better because they swell to fill the hole when set. My frame was so worn about 1/2 of my rivets were loose, I drilled them out, repaired the holes, reamed for a tight fit & bolted, I would still rather have rivets.

[Miller's Metal]

When I powder coated mine 4x4 swb the cross members were done separate.
Me and my brother loaded it on the trailer. when it was finished there was a few times I packed it out of the garage bay by myself to make room, picking in the middle. I'm sure with a little foam where it contacts the trailer or put it on some carpet you would be fine.

[FirstOwner69]

I transported mine to the sandblaster on a boat trailer. If I recall correctly a friend and I loaded it with not a lot of effort. The sandblaster also painted it with a semi flat black machinery paint for an original appearance. The paint took several days to thoroughly dry and is tough as nails. I'm not sure why folks are so enthralled with powder coating. Below are pictures before and after going to the blaster.

Jim

[BossHogg69]

I took mine in for blasting & powder exactly like Firstowner69 did. You can easily carry the frame with two guys with it partially disassembled like that.

[David67]

I rented an open uhaul trailer. My brother and I loaded it by hand. I did everything in satin black...easy to touch up when you realize you forgot to drill a few holes...

I've also grinded/sandblasted one down to bare metal and primed/painted. Definitely a lot of work, but it's a cost saver for sure.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

The frame seems to be surprisingly light. Thanks for the info.

[leddzepp]

Fairly easy to lift onto a trailer with 2 people if the frame is stripped. You won’t regret getting it powder coated. Paint is nice...but powder is still a step above

[beaterku]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Makes sense, but at this point I'm not a fan of cutting rivets.

Originally Posted by B. W.

Me neither, I think rivets are better because they swell to fill the hole when set. My frame was so worn about 1/2 of my rivets were loose, I drilled them out, repaired the holes, reamed for a tight fit & bolted, I would still rather have rivets.

A properly sized hole and a bolted connection torqued will provide every bit of the same clamping force as a rivet.

Drilling rivets is my preferred method of removal. Here is a video of me removing the rivets in the rear of my frame. It's a heck of a lot quieter than using an air hammer and a lot faster (I've removed with with an air hammer, grinder and drilling).

https://youtu.be/BXHq3jkOqTA?t=44s

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by beaterku

A properly sized hole and a bolted connection torqued will provide every bit of the same clamping force as a rivet.

Drilling rivets is my preferred method of removal. Here is a video of me removing the rivets in the rear of my frame. It's a heck of a lot quieter than using an air hammer and a lot faster (I've removed with with an air hammer, grinder and drilling).

https://youtu.be/BXHq3jkOqTA?t=44s

Very cool. You made it look easy. We're removing the front suspension this weekend. I was going to cut, but may drill instead.

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Fairly easy to lift onto a trailer with 2 people if the frame is stripped. You won’t regret getting it powder coated. Paint is nice...but powder is still a step above

Looks great. Semi or gloss?

[beaterku]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Very cool. You made it look easy. We're removing the front suspension this weekend. I was going to cut, but may drill instead.

My only recommendation is a sharp set of drill bits. Start small and work your way up. I used a 1/2” bit to take most of the head of the rivet down and then chiseled what remaining head was left. You can do the same on the other side of the rivet to remove it completely. Every so often, I had s rivet that I could push out with a pinch and a hammer, but most had to be drilled on the opposite side as well.

[harpo231]

I always recommend that folks learn to sharpen a bit. many a wasted hour if ya dull yer bit

[Fatherflash]

Looks like a nice plan however, what about your grounds? How are you going to manage them? Powder coat and paint can interrupt grounds. If you are really set on powder coating, I would recommend a conductive sealant at every ground point location. This works to prevent moisture and improve electric or ground conduction.

Would also recommend you consider dry ice blasting instead of sand. Sand absorbs moisture and interrupts paint application. Sand particles can be trapped in the applied pattern and trap moisture. Dry ice dissolves / disappears following contact with hard surface.

Whoever you ask to do the work, ensure they clean the frame thoroughly using non residue cleaner (example - Isopropyl Alcohol) prior to primer, paint or powder coat application.

My perspective only. Whatever you decide, good luck and let us know the outcome.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Fatherflash

Looks like a nice plan however, what about your grounds? How are you going to manage them? Powder coat and paint can interrupt grounds. If you are really set on powder coating, I would recommend a conductive sealant at every ground point location. This works to prevent moisture and improve electric or ground conduction.

Would also recommend you consider dry ice blasting instead of sand. Sand absorbs moisture and interrupts paint application. Sand particles can be trapped in the applied pattern and trap moisture. Dry ice dissolves / disappears following contact with hard surface.

Whoever you ask to do the work, ensure they clean the frame thoroughly using non residue cleaner (example - Isopropyl Alcohol) prior to primer, paint or powder coat application.

My perspective only. Whatever you decide, good luck and let us know the outcome.

On those grounds, do you take it down to metal and use the conductive sealant? As far as scuffing, seems the threaded holes (cab and inner fender) work as is. I see GM left the surfaces painted. I'll probably take a small wire brush to the holes. As for the bolt locations, I've heard ground washers will make that contact, but per at least one of our finer posters, the area should be scuffed.

Neat idea on the dry ice. I don't have the equipment to blast. Perhaps this place I've found for blasting does this, but I doubt it. Yesterday they sandblasted my inner fenders. They do powder coat as well.

While I get Firstowners point (nice Jim), I'm pondering powder coat a lot. Nice thing is it's one stop and quick work. If I do that, I may have most of the satin/phosphate parts powder coated too. I asked the body man if he was interested in painting the frame, and nope, he's not......Ha! Either way it will get done. Thanks for the info., gives me some idea what to ask for, blasting and powder.


OT: I found this truck looking for 72 chevy and powder coat. WOW.......While I like my SWB a lot, I don't buy much stock in the idea a LWB is inferior in looks, it depends on the truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbgi233Qq_A

[davepl]

Here's mine going off for powder. I think I just picked up one end with the hoist and manhandled the other, if I recall. Not that heavy when stripped down. You can tell the Camaro still has a big iron block in the nose, it's about an inch or more higher with the aluminum LS in there!

Tip one: Buy an EXTRA pack of ground straps. Connect the frame to the bed, the front and rear to the frame, all of that. Powder coating makes for good insulation between surfaces otherwise.

Tip two: If you care what they look like, get your ground straps from Ecklers Corvette or someone who cares what they look like so you can still get copper. All the LMC replacements are aluminum (or steel).

Get some references on the powder place. Mine was an industrial coater who did shelving, but they did a great job. They sand blasted, steam cleaned, and acid washed everything first and nothing has every chipped.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by davepl

Here's mine going off for powder. I think I just picked up one end with the hoist and manhandled the other, if I recall. Not that heavy when stripped down. You can tell the Camaro still has a big iron block in the nose, it's about an inch or more higher with the aluminum LS in there!

Tip one: Buy an EXTRA pack of ground straps. Connect the frame to the bed, the front and rear to the frame, all of that. Powder coating makes for good insulation between surfaces otherwise.

Tip two: If you care what they look like, get your ground straps from Ecklers Corvette or someone who cares what they look like so you can still get copper. All the LMC replacements are aluminum (or steel).

Get some references on the powder place. Mine was an industrial coater who did shelving, but they did a great job. They sand blasted, steam cleaned, and acid washed everything first and nothing has every chipped.

Going off for powder? By the condition of those parts, I think you mean after.

On your idea for throw away grounds straps, seems you could manage with just the bolts and screws in place. Perhaps I missed the message. Do you mean install and then have them powder coated, so the surface remains bare?

I didn't know copper was available...........darn it, one of our finer dealers sold me metal color You recall the year Corvette you used?

NICE Camaro.

[Fatherflash]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

On those grounds, do you take it down to metal and use the conductive sealant? As far as scuffing, seems the threaded holes (cab and inner fender) work as is. I see GM left the surfaces painted. I'll probably take a small wire brush to the holes. As for the bolt locations, I've heard ground washers will make that contact, but per at least one of our finer posters, the area should be scuffed.

Neat idea on the dry ice. I don't have the equipment to blast. Perhaps this place I've found for blasting does this, but I doubt it. Yesterday they sandblasted my inner fenders. They do powder coat as well.

While I get Firstowners point (nice Jim), I'm pondering powder coat a lot. Nice thing is it's one stop and quick work. If I do that, I may have most of the satin/phosphate parts powder coated too. I asked the body man if he was interested in painting the frame, and nope, he's not......Ha! Either way it will get done. Thanks for the info., gives me some idea what to ask for, blasting and powder.


OT: I found this truck looking for 72 chevy and powder coat. WOW.......While I like my SWB a lot, I don't buy much stock in the idea a LWB is inferior in looks, it depends on the truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbgi233Qq_A

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Been rather busy. I would recommend bare surface on scuffed contacts with conductive sealant applied over locations. We use PR-2200 conductive sealant and have really good results with it. Stuff is expensive so may want to consider other options. Reason for recommendation is a) stuff has fantastic temperature range. We use it on equipment that goes from +120 F to -117 F in 1.5 hours and have never had a electrical or ground problem due to this sealant when applied. b) simply because it never gives us problems however, we follow the application guidelines to the letter ( clean, prepped surface). We apply conductive sealant over ground locations, fully cover that location and allow to cure.

Problem with ground washers is corrosion inhibits contact and washers attract some water, corrosive aspect when used which may result in corrosion. You can use a conductive grease to slow down water penetration. Other thing to consider is ground washers slip if not properly installed or improperly torqued which can lead to a everybody's favorite issue - ground problem. Scuffing helps if you like however, some type of protectant or sealant is advised whether scuffed or not.

If you do go with powder coat remember it is tough up until it is damaged and can then further crack. Ask the people who apply it how to manage cracks or damage and how to apply your grounds. They may have other suggestions.

I wish you luck and let us know how it turns out.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Fatherflash

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Been rather busy. I would recommend bare surface on scuffed contacts with conductive sealant applied over locations. We use PR-2200 conductive sealant and have really good results with it. Stuff is expensive so may want to consider other options. Reason for recommendation is a) stuff has fantastic temperature range. We use it on equipment that goes from +120 F to -117 F in 1.5 hours and have never had a electrical or ground problem due to this sealant when applied. b) simply because it never gives us problems however, we follow the application guidelines to the letter ( clean, prepped surface). We apply conductive sealant over ground locations, fully cover that location and allow to cure.

Problem with ground washers is corrosion inhibits contact and washers attract some water, corrosive aspect when used which may result in corrosion. You can use a conductive grease to slow down water penetration. Other thing to consider is ground washers slip if not properly installed or improperly torqued which can lead to a everybody's favorite issue - ground problem. Scuffing helps if you like however, some type of protectant or sealant is advised whether scuffed or not.

If you do go with powder coat remember it is tough up until it is damaged and can then further crack. Ask the people who apply it how to manage cracks or damage and how to apply your grounds. They may have other suggestions.

I wish you luck and let us know how it turns out.

Awesome advice, thank you.