Best engine mount for s10 v8 swap?

[Speedysdad]

I have seen many different ideas for engine mounts. I can fab stuff, but I would prefer to use an adapter mount that solves all the issues; something that bolts to the S10 2wd engine mount holes, is adjustable to move the engine to the rear an adequate amount and slightly offset to the passenger side to allow for the steering and header clearance. Is there such an item already in production? What is the best of of the shelf solution?

[mongocanfly]

read thru skymangs howto thread ..he covers the s10 package very well I think....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632686

[Speedysdad]

I don't feel comfortable using his design. It's my welding skills I worry about and this is an item I don't want to fail. I would prefer a bolt in conversion, but not sure if there is one that does it all. Just looking for options that work.

[abig84]

can you use these?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...iABEgK6qvD_BwE

thats what i used when i put a small block in a old 95 s10 like 10 years ago. i remember you can move the engine forward or backwards but not a lot. i think 3/4 of a inch

[joedoh]

ok try to follow along:

on an S10 body, using those swap mounts like the ones abig84 show) moves the engine mount forward usually 3-4 inches (you can see the slotted holes. the engine mount position on the v8 block is 3-4 inches further rearward than on the 4.3 block so if you didnt use those swap mounts the v8 would be too far back in the S10 engine compartment, it would hit the firewall.

on an AD though, you need to move the engine back in the s10 chassis, so some people take those mounts and flip them side to side, so that it moves the engine back the 3-4inches, and since it was a V6 mounting originally the V8 is already 3-4 inches further back, so you get a net 6-8 inch rear move, which is good.

but you need to be aware of the serpentine system and/or pulleys, the mounts may not fit the block/accessories flipped over, because the mount to the chassis to the adapter might be in the same spot. so check carefully.

if you are worried about your welding skills, or about the fabrication part, know that the mounts will be in compression (like a curved dam face pushes outward on the canyon walls) instead of tension (where applying force is naturally trying to pull the mount apart) so there is a relatively low risk of problems. also, the motor torque is in the direction of the mount, so even a tack welded mount will be strong in that direction (dont tack weld, just saying)

instead of buying that complicated mount setup for the bolt-in "simplicity" (you will still have to modify the transmission crossmember, no bolt-in there) that may not fit or will cause problems with accessories, look up a mount like this
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...Kit,81335.html


it will let you trim and bolt in the crossmember (you will still have to find someone to weld the bolt in mounts to the crossmember) but it lets you set the engine height and offset to the passenger side, everything, without worrying about screwing up the distances or parallel mount tubes. remember you need a down angle on the engine!

[Speedysdad]

I didn't consider the serpentine interference, that's why I posted the question here. I knew someone had probably run into every scenario to watch out for. Now I understand why Skymangs makes them the way he does. Thank you for the explanation.

[robertsjm711]

I created my own mounts, both engine and transmission. If you are uncomfortable with the welding, maybe you can fab them up and have a shop burn it together.

I wanted my engine (5.3) to be low and back to allow for a minimal transmission hump (Muncie M20) and clearance for the radiator.

I have learned through this experience that oil pan, firewall mount brake booster, headers and steering arm need to be at least thought about. I will never be able to have power steering or A/C compressor in the stock location but that's OK with me... for now.

That my 2 cents at least...

Update: Picture from original post from mock up, not final product.

[abig84]

Originally Posted by joedoh

instead of buying that complicated mount setup for the bolt-in "simplicity" (you will still have to modify the transmission crossmember, no bolt-in there) that may not fit or will cause problems with accessories, look up a mount like this
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...Kit,81335.html


it will let you trim and bolt in the crossmember (you will still have to find someone to weld the bolt in mounts to the crossmember) but it lets you set the engine height and offset to the passenger side, everything, without worrying about screwing up the distances or parallel mount tubes. remember you need a down angle on the engine!

i just put one of those universal mounts in my 51 1ton. so far it works. i did weld another piece of metal where that small piece of metal holds up the small piece where the engine mount bolt goes through. to me it looks like if you slam on the brakes the engine will just fall forward

[snipes]

Not sure if you ever found the mounts you needed but Code504 has the ones you more than likely will need.

http://www.code504.com/ls-engine-mounts/

[gigamanx]

A little late to the party, I used the Transdapt 9906 mounts with a Small block 350 and they gave me the correct amount of clearance needed. I then used the Hedman 69520 S10 header conversion. The drivers side has clearance for the steering and frame.

1988 S10 Frame, 5.7L V8 SBC 350, Chevy 3100 body