Need help with HEI on L6

[Sleipnir]

Hey all,

I have a 250 that I am trying to convert to HEI. I followed the steps in the conversion thread but I am not able to get the truck to fire up. At one point I had it running but was rough and now it sounds like there is air escaping the block when it tries to turn over. Also, now I have to jump the battery every time I want to start it. I made sure I am at TDC with the paper towel trick but I dont know if my vacuum is set right but I cant turn the dizzy any further. It's the same dizzy as the Skip White one.

[71meangreenc10]

What thread and what Dizzy did you use? Did you run a 12v wire to the Dizzy?

Smitty

[Sleipnir]

Originally Posted by 71meangreenc10

What thread and what Dizzy did you use? Did you run a 12v wire to the Dizzy?

Smitty

This thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=148346

This dizzy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same part numbers that Skip White uses that the distributor wasnt labeling it with his branding.

I think my plugs are wrong too which might be the problem here. I realized they are too big for the socket whole so I ordered some of the 5/8" plugs but any other ideas are welcome.

I am also running the original wire from the ignition to the old coil to the new dizzy. It's the braided wire in the harness.

[cjrolke]

Originally Posted by Sleipnir

This thread:


I am also running the original wire from the ignition to the old coil to the new dizzy. It's the braided wire in the harness.

run a new hot wire (even temporarily) that is part of your issue (I Believe)

[Sleipnir]

Originally Posted by cjrolke

run a new hot wire (even temporarily) that is part of your issue (I Believe)

Should I run a new hot wire from the ignition?

[PTC002]

You need to run a new wire from a 12v source. Make sure this source is also hot while cranking. The old wire to the distributor is a resistor wire and will not work with an HEI.

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by Sleipnir

This thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=148346

This dizzy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same part numbers that Skip White uses that the distributor wasnt labeling it with his branding.

I think my plugs are wrong too which might be the problem here. I realized they are too big for the socket whole so I ordered some of the 5/8" plugs but any other ideas are welcome.


I am also running the original wire from the ignition to the old coil to the new dizzy. It's the braided wire in the harness.

If the wire is yellow, it has to go. You have to run a true 12v wire from the IGN UNFUSED terminal in the fuse box. Make sure you are adding a ground to the HEI.

Original plugs can be used as long as you adjust the gap to HEI thickness.

Skeptical on the DIZZY, just installed an "ACCEL" Dizzy in a V8 and it was total trash, cap had a spark jump and the motor sounded like it was going to die or explode. Pulled it out and put in a GM HEI and it ran perfect.

Make sure the Dizzy has the same length as the points from the base to the end.

Smitty

[Sleipnir]

I just read through the thread again and that makes more sense that the wire isnt heavy enough. I am going to order a new connector from NAPA and heavy wire along with changing the plugs again.

[Sleipnir]

Originally Posted by 71meangreenc10

If the wire is yellow, it has to go. You have to run a true 12v wire from the IGN UNFUSED terminal in the fuse box. Make sure you are adding a ground to the HEI.

Original plugs can be used as long as you adjust the gap to HEI thickness.

Skeptical on the DIZZY, just installed an "ACCEL" Dizzy in a V8 and it was total trash, cap had a spark jump and the motor sounded like it was going to die or explode. Pulled it out and put in a GM HEI and it ran perfect.

Make sure the Dizzy has the same length as the points from the base to the end.

Smitty

Yea I am going to check to make sure that braided wire will work for like in the other thread.

What would be the issue if the dizzy wasnt the same length as the old one?

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by Sleipnir

I just read through the thread again and that makes more sense that the wire isnt heavy enough. I am going to order a new connector from NAPA and heavy wire along with changing the plugs again.

Sounds good. Look at your fuse block, there is a spot there you can tap that is correct. If you use a 12v that is not switched, the vehicle will not shut off when you turn off the key.

Those Dizzy's also may have bad parts in them (control modules), I always get a GM HEI and put new Delco parts in it and never had issues. If I am right the V6 HEI's that were run in a million front wheel drive cars will work as long as the drive gear is the same (easy to change).

Smitty

[RichardJ]

>>I just read through the thread again and that makes more sense that the wire isnt heavy enough. I am going to order a new connector from NAPA and heavy wire along with changing the plugs again. <<

It won't make a damn bit of difference. It will run just fine with the resistance wire.

For starters you followed instructions from a guy that really didn't know what he was doing.
Below is the picture he posted. Someone told him to point the rotor to the #1 spark tower on the Dist Cap. He said to point the rotor at the #1 spark plug.
They told him to cap the Vacuum hose from the carb. He capped the vacuum canister and I guess left the vacuum hose sucking air.

Turn your engine until the timing mark is at TDC. The rotor should be pointing to the #1 cap tower or the #6 cap tower. This is dependent on your ability to find #1 TDC on the compression stroke or you accidentally found TDC on the Exhaust stroke of cyl #1.
Get the engine at TDC compression on #1 and put the distributor in with the rotor pointing at the #1 tower and it will start. Use a long screw driver to turn the oil pump so you can get the dist to drop.,



The 2nd picture is my Ex coil HEI that has been running through the ballast resistor for the last ten years. Before that I had a standard coil-in-cap HEI running through the same resistor for about 15 years. Changed it to clear the AC compressor.
With the original, cloth covered ballast resistor wire in place, the truck will run 75 mph all day and get 15-16 mpg.

Everyone will tell you that it must have a full 12 Volts. I'm telling you if your Alt is putting out 14 Volts you will have between 11 - 12 at the Dist and it will run fine.

[71meangreenc10]

Everyone will tell you that it must have a full 12 Volts. I'm telling you if your Alt is putting out 14 Volts you will have between 11 - 12 at the Dist and it will run fine.[/QUOTE]

Well,

All I can say is that I tried it with a yellow wire once and it failed. Could have been the parts I used, could have been something I did, who knows. Since then I have done it with 12 volts from the IGN UNFUSED spot and never had any issues. I have also used the set up like you posted with the cap and external coil.

Smitty

[RichardJ]

Do remove the wire from the starter solenoid as that guy demonstrated. I have heard of HEI module failures with the solenoid wire still connected. I believe a voltage spike from the solenoid is the culprit.

>> Make sure the Dizzy has the same length as the points from the base to the end.

Smitty<<

That is a good point. The Ex coil dist in my picture as pulled from the junkyard had a lot of end play. I shimmed it to about .010", but when installed oil was leaking from the dist base gasket. The shaft was actually pushing down on the oil pump. I shimmed it so that it sat down without the gasket and adding the gasket lifted it to a safe clearance.

[Sleipnir]

Ok guys,

I was able to fire up the truck but it doesn't stay running. I try adjusting the dizzy and it helps but I can't turn it any further because it hits the block. Does anyone have any suggestions that might help me? When I do manage to get it running barely it sounds like it's back firing and barely staying alive when I try to give it gas to stay running.

[Don Quixote]

Originally Posted by Sleipnir

Ok guys,

I was able to fire up the truck but it doesn't stay running. I try adjusting the dizzy and it helps but I can't turn it any further because it hits the block. Does anyone have any suggestions that might help me? When I do manage to get it running barely it sounds like it's back firing and barely staying alive when I try to give it gas to stay running.

It's off a tooth or 2. That just means you are getting closer. I had to adjust mine out 3 teeth before I was able to dial it in and have the electrical connections where I wanted them.

[Sleipnir]

Originally Posted by Don Quixote

It's off a tooth or 2. That just means you are getting closer. I had to adjust mine out 3 teeth before I was able to dial it in and have the electrical connections where I wanted them.

What do you mean it's off a tooth or two?

[jessemthompson]

Originally Posted by Sleipnir

What do you mean it's off a tooth or two?

He means, pulls the distributor, rotate the engine to TDC and re-drop the distributor. Your timing is too far off to adjust it to run properly. In a case like this, it’s handy to have a manual around to reference. I dont intend this in a mean way, but it teaches you a lot. This is a basic job.

[Sleipnir]

So I was able to get it working now. I've never worked on distributors before so this was a learning experience for me. I put the truck on TDC with the paper towel trick, turned the gear in the oil pump with a flat head screwdriver enough to wear I could drop the dizzy with enough space to adjust my timing. When I read in the other thread that the rotor had to be pointing at cylinder one it threw me off. I ended up turning it facing the battery but had the post on the dizzy for number one lined up with the rotor. So when he said face cyclinder one he really meant post on the the dizzy cap. Had my firing order right, timed it, and it runs better than ever. This was definitely a learning experience but glad I went through it. Thanks everyone for the help!

[RichardJ]

>> So when he said face cyclinder one he really meant post on the the dizzy cap. Had my firing order right, timed it, and it runs <<

What did you think I was telling you in post #11 above?

[Sleipnir]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

>> So when he said face cyclinder one he really meant post on the the dizzy cap. Had my firing order right, timed it, and it runs <<

What did you think I was telling you in post #11 above?

It didn't make sense to me until I got in there and did it myself. I didn't read between the lines that you can put the dizzy rotor facing anywhere as long as you have the firing order right. It doesn't have to be pointing directly at #1 cylinder

[geezer#99]

Did you know you didn’t need to pull the dizzy to reset it.
You could of just moved the plug wires ccw one or two spots.
I’m surprised one of those other experts didn’t know enough to mention that!

[Sleipnir]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Did you know you didn’t need to pull the dizzy to reset it.
You could of just moved the plug wires ccw one or two spots.
I’m surprised one of those other experts didn’t know enough to mention that!

HA! I didn't even think of that but that's good advice. I guess hind sight is 20/20

[geezer#99]

Did you run a new 12v wire to your hei?

[Sleipnir]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Did you run a new 12v wire to your hei?

I actually didn't and used the resistor wire. Doests't seem to be an issue and run and starts fine.

[geezer#99]

It will but you gotta wonder why general motors switched over to a wire that gives it a full 12 volts.
If the resistor wire was adequate, why change it. Why would they spend more money? When you’re talking a million vehicles a change costs millions of dollars. Cuts your profits.
Likely the module and the coil needed 12 volts, so they didn’t need the resistor wire and they turfed it for a dedicated 12 v supply.
You can run it as you like but if you start having trouble with the module or coil, I’m sure you can get one of those other experts in your thread to help with the cost.

Did you gap your plugs at .045?