1950 latch and lock?

[PDW HOTRODS]

This is from the Trique Manufacturing web site.
"While all of our latches can be locked from the outside using your stock lock cylinders, you can not lock your Altman Easy Latch from the inside by pushing the handle forward."

I have a 1950 with turn down handles, does anyone know what to do to lock the truck if using this kit? It has outside lock on pass side only and this kit will not let you lock from inside. Any one have luck with regular bear claw latches?

[b-mac]

I'm torn on this too. I know some people have done some engineering to get their stock setup to work with Bear Claws.

It's so complicated, that I'm thinking about going with Bear Claws with electric locks. But then there's the wiring through the door...ugh...

I wish I knew the easy answer. Maybe someone smart will chime in.

[b-mac]

Oh, also I recall that in 1950, you were supposed to slide your a$$ across the bench and climb out the passenger (curbside). Then lock your door.

[_Ogre]

can you mount a pass door handle on the drivers side?

[jweb]

Look at this build, post #108. He did I nice job adding some power locks.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=646646&page=5

[mr48chev]

I've never studied an Altman lock but are there provisions in the left side lock to lock it with a key if perhaps a person cut the piece that holds the lock out of a junk right side donor door and welded it into the left door and used a proper to the model right side lock?

That wont help the it's all painted an done but it might work for those in the building process.

[b-mac]

To Mr.48's point, I think a hole could easily be filed out to the correct size also. This is a good idea, and I might just try it.

But with both the interior handle, and the exterior key, I think everything is going to be backward, and it will take some engineering.

[whitedog76]

What’s the whole point of Bear Claw/ Altman’s? To me, it seems like a lot of work with little reward.

[ozzie50]

I have a 1950 GMC and use the Altman's latch. They sell brackets for power locks just for pre 1951. Bought a door actuator kit for eBay for about 15 bucks and done. I went ahead and put it on both sides. Originally, I was only going to put the power lock on the drivers side. But it went relatively smoothly so I did both sides.

When I was researching this topic. Trique said you could modify your drivers door to accept a key cylinder. This would be way more work then adding the power lock kit.

If you go this route here is a hint. Buy a actuator kit for four doors. It is not much more and the hardest part I had was getting the connecting rods bent right. (gives you a couple to mess up on).

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

What’s the whole point of Bear Claw/ Altman’s? To me, it seems like a lot of work with little reward.

Whitedog, I'm not sure. I hear the OEM latches on the ADs are junk and will fly open when cornering. Maybe you can confirm or deny? I have never driven my truck. I haven't painted the cab yet, but I'm getting close, and I need to decide quickly if I want to do this mod.

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by ozzie50

If you go this route here is a hint. Buy a actuator kit for four doors. It is not much more and the hardest part I had was getting the connecting rods bent right. (gives you a couple to mess up on).

Ozzie, most of the kits I see look like this


Would you need the connecting rod?

[ozzie50]

They pull from a different way for this kit. Not saying you couldn't engineer something different. But as far as bolt in kit I love the Altman kit. My door shut solid like a new car and my doors are not perfect.

Pros: Easy enough installation for even a "novice". I have had my truck since 1995 and I was always nervous about doors flying open, happened many times. I can lock my doors from the key fob when inside the truck so no need to wire a in the door button. As far as "bolt on" A+

Cons: Things get crowded. Get ready to push and bend things to get things perfect for window to function properly. On my kit the buttons lock vs unlock are reversed.

[wolffcub]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

can you mount a pass door handle on the drivers side?

If you have a push button style type then you can install a locking key cylinder on either or both sides. They sell replacement kits with two locking cylinders.

[whitedog76]

Originally Posted by b-mac

Whitedog, I'm not sure. I hear the OEM latches on the ADs are junk and will fly open when cornering. Maybe you can confirm or deny? I have never driven my truck. I haven't painted the cab yet, but I'm getting close, and I need to decide quickly if I want to do this mod.

To be honest, I can't confirm or deny anything. On my 54, the doors shut and stay shut very well. On a personal level, I don't see the need in my case. Of course, yours is the earlier style, I can see where the pull down style handles may be an issue. I know on my Grandpa's old ride, I recall him opening and shutting, reaching out the window to mess with the handle quite often. That was of course on a well weathered truck. I've had similar issues on even more modern rides. I had a Freightliner that I tied the passenger door shut on. I got tired of messing with it.

If you're doing body work and think you may want to upgrade, I guess the best time is before the paint goes on. My blood would boil if I had a freshly put together truck and the doors wouldn't stay shut.

On the HAMB, I do remember a gentleman saying that his wife fell out of the truck while cornering. I don't think I want to see that. (I turned the governor up on my golf cart and had a similar incident with my daughters. Luckily not on the road.) On the other hand I've been in Jeeps and Buggies with no doors. Seat belts seem to be the prerequisite there.

Anyhow, sorry about the rambling. I guess what I'm trying to say, is that if what you have works, I don't see the need to change it.

[joedoh]

on my 47 the handle return springs were weak and if you hit a big bump the handle would drop and the door would open. after that one I always installed new handles.

on the 49 the latch was super tight and you really had to slam it to get to the second position. in the first position you could use a shoulder on the door and it would pop open. thats really the important thing the bear claws do well, is have that safety position to keep the door shut and safe even in the first position.

in my opinion people use the bear claws because thats what fits in old doors, there isnt a lot of room for a latch mechanism inside the skin that will work with the drop handle. its sort of like the MII, its what works and has been popularized.

I had a 65 with that infuriating "push inside handle down to lock" arrangement and there was really no way to reliably lock the doors. I did some research and the 67 door latch assembly was an almost fit to the 65 door, and also gave a push down lock button that could be remotely activated (there is no way at all to add a keyless/electric lock/unlock to a system that locks by moving the handle down, at least that I found). I sold the truck in the middle of working on that part. It used a tab to open the door from the handle though instead of a cam, so it wouldnt work on an early AD without changing the outside handle, and the inside door release mechanisms too, and the latch portion on the door jamb, so lots of work. the guy who bought the 65 put in electric deadbolts after the truck was stolen (the intact passlock system saved it)

[Scott2]

I've been reading all the threads on door handles and locks as well. I had originally installed Altman latches on my 1951 doors. Then I switched to '49 doors to get one piece glass so I moved the latches over. But - I want locks and I'm not thrilled about sagging door handles. So after a good conversation with Trique Manufacturing I ordered their '52 - '54 latch only and a set of pushbutton '52 - '54 door handles with a matching lock set.

Just this setup will give me handles that don't sag and locks from the outside on both doors. They still won't lock from the inside.

The next step is to add remote actuators from Watsons StreetWorks (call them - they will set you with the correct ones) and you will have electric locks that work from inside or outside as well. The actuators connect to the lower small lever with the hole on the newer latch.

The first pic is the door handles showing the different mounting approach. Next is the two different latches showing the '51 and older square hole the older handles turn, and the later version with the push lever (one is driver side and one pass but you get the idea). Then a shot of the push lever version installed - you can see it in the hole - but still with the old handle mount holes.

Next step is to get the mounting holes right for the new handles and make sure they are located correctly to fully hit the lever which seems like it should be more centered under the pushbutton. I don't know the correct placement (yet) and the new handles have this angled screw hole to consider so I'm looking for later doors that are otherwise on the scrap pile to cut out the mounting area and graft it on my doors. If I don't get lucky I'll figure out how to modify my doors.

I think this should all work. Anyone see a problem I'm missing? And for those thinking about the options, yes I could probably use the remote actuators with the old handles and latches and still lock it up. I just like the pushbutton handles and integrated locks.