Finally starting my engine swap project: 5.3/4L60e into '84 short bed 2wd

[jrblanke]

Well, I have finally started my 5.3/4L65e swap into my 84 Silverado short bed 2wd. The donor vehicle is a wrecked 2006 chevy trailblazer (TB).
The end goal is to Have a dependable, fuel efficient, good looking truck that I can both drive to work, or take on trips w/ the wife.

Background:
• The TB has 97315 miles on it and has the L33 (all aluminum) engine.
• The previous owner added some SLP long tube headers and had it dyno tuned (DOD turned off). He was planning to do a cam swap before the accident, but did not get to it. I was able to get some head gaskets, head bolts, lifter valley cover, plastic lifter holders, LS7 lifters, and an LS2 cam from the previous owner. After doing some reading, I don’t think I’ll use the that LS2 cam.
• The 4L65e has a Trans-go HD 2 shift kit, Sonnax billet 2nd gear accumulator, and Corvette servo.
• My truck has about 120K miles on it, and was mostly unmodified until I got it a couple years ago. It has mostly sat for the past 2 years while I got my house and started life in the “real world” haha. I put a 5” drop on the front using 3” spindles and cut springs. And a 4 inch drop on the rear using the shackle/hanger kit.


I would like the truck running by December 31st of this year (or else I will owe my two co-workers 10 dollars each, haha).

Here is my truck:



And the TB:





Plans:
Been doing a LOT of reading and planning. For the most part, I am planning to mirror Glock’s project Fred by using #2 adapter plates.

I am on the fence about the AC compressor position. If I can use my factory compressor on a high mount bracket, I might be tempted to buy the high mount bracket. If I have to buy a new compressor and pulleys to run the high mount, I’ll just keep the compressor low and hope it doesn’t go bad any time soon, haha.

Wiring: I am planning to ship my wire harness/computer out to be reworked. It is the most time effective way to get this done.

Fuel system: I am still unsure of which fuel pump I should order. I know I want in tank pumps but I am unsure of what type. I am also not sure of which fuel injection rated lines I am going to go with. I am going to go with the most affordable but dependable option. Need to read more about this. I’ll be replacing my current tanks/sending units with 1987 style tanks. I also know I’ll also need the switch valve from JC whitney, and the 1999 corvette fuel/regulator since the fuel rails on the engine fuel rails do not have a return line. Again, I have not figured out the fittings/fuel line situation.

Trans: I’ll be converting the trans from a 4wd to a 2wd. Should not be too difficult. (You tube will be my friend, haha).

Engine: On the fence about a cam swap. If I do one, I will eliminate the DOD stuff (as I said, I already have what I think is most of the parts to eliminate it) and go with about a 212/218 on 112 cam. Main goal is mileage and a little more power. From what I have read, that cam seems to be pretty good. If I can find a good used one, that might be the way I go.

[jrblanke]

What has been done:
I lucked out and sold the old engine/trans to a guy who has a shop, so he took the truck to his shop, yanked the 350/700R4, and returned it to my place. So old motor removal is done. I was sure to keep the yoke from the transmission, the fitting out of the back of the PS pump, and the motor mount brackets.

This past weekend got the cars shuffled around in the driveway, and power washed the engine compartment. I began disassembly of the core support but I am kind of stuck. Having never removed a core support, I am not sure how to get it off. I removed both of the large bolts holding it to the frame, as well as the bolts holding it to he fender/inner fenders. Is it bonded to the fenders? If it would move, I would be able to tell where it is stuck, but it is not even budging. Maybe I need to be a bit more persuasive with the pry bars and hammers. Any suggestions?


Here is the truck as it sits now:

[NorCalAnthony]

Looks like you're off to a great start

I'm gathering up the last few parts before I start my 5.3/4l80e swap on my '89 K5. Here's a couple of things I've learned so far that may help you:

A/C Compressor: glock35ipsc way of doing the air compressor is definitely one of the cleanest looking ways to go but I personally don't have the tools or fab skills to do it that way. If you want to re-use your stock R4 style compressor there are a few aftermarket companies that make relocation brackets for them so you don't have to buy an expensive Sanden unit. Or if you're on a tighter budget something that looks and works real similar is modifying the bracket from a pre-Vortec 4.3 V6 like they did here: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=79059. I was able to pick up the bracket, tensioner, and idler pullies on the cheap last weekend at one of the local yards so I'll be going that route myself.

Transmission: From what I understand, there's no easy way to convert a trans from 4wd to 2wd without a complete tear down. With that in mind, you might as well pick up a rebuild kit so you can replace anything that looks worn out. Although with the details you gave, your trans may not need it. It doesn't seem too difficult from what I was reading http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=532654

Fuel System: Sounds like you're already planning on switching to the ’87 tank and sending units which is good because you’ll need the baffling in those tanks to keep the pump from starving once it gets low and the fuel starts sloshing around. The pump that most people run is the AC Delco EP381 that supplies more than enough fuel for the LS engines and is a direct fit in the ’87 sending unit. As far as fuel lines go, if you want to go the easiest and cheapest way possible you can grab some higher PSI rated rubber hose with the stronger FI hose clamps. If you go that route you should be able to use your stock hard line to run from the tanks to the engine with short lengths of hose connecting them like a few people on here and a couple other forums have done. Or you can go the more expensive route and get AN fittings and adapters with some braided lines.

Engine: I’ve seen a lot of people that are real happy with the 212/218 cams and they're made by a lot of cam companies so lots to choose from. Another good option that I’ve seen is the Isky Tripple 12 that is technically a turbo cam but a bunch of people have run them in the 5.3’s NA with really good results. I’d recommend checking out ls1tech (if you haven’t already) to read up on what people are running as well as check out some of the sponsors. A lot of the sponsors over there also have members on the forums that are really great about answering questions and will even spec a cam specifically for your setup. Whichever cam you go with be sure to get some new springs to match it and most likely new pushrods to go along with the stuff you already have from the PO. Higher lift cams are hard on your valve train and require better (ie more expensive) components to handle it. If you’re on a tighter budget you can get a lower lift cam and use some LS6 springs ($50-60).

Good luck with your project. Keep the posts and the pictures coming

[jrblanke]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Looks like you're off to a great start

I'm gathering up the last few parts before I start my 5.3/4l80e swap on my '89 K5. Here's a couple of things I've learned so far that may help you:

A/C Compressor: glock35ipsc way of doing the air compressor is definitely one of the cleanest looking ways to go but I personally don't have the tools or fab skills to do it that way. If you want to re-use your stock R4 style compressor there are a few aftermarket companies that make relocation brackets for them so you don't have to buy an expensive Sanden unit. Or if you're on a tighter budget something that looks and works real similar is modifying the bracket from a pre-Vortec 4.3 V6 like they did here: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=79059. I was able to pick up the bracket, tensioner, and idler pullies on the cheap last weekend at one of the local yards so I'll be going that route myself.

Transmission: From what I understand, there's no easy way to convert a trans from 4wd to 2wd without a complete tear down. With that in mind, you might as well pick up a rebuild kit so you can replace anything that looks worn out. Although with the details you gave, your trans may not need it. It doesn't seem too difficult from what I was reading http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=532654

Fuel System: Sounds like you're already planning on switching to the ’87 tank and sending units which is good because you’ll need the baffling in those tanks to keep the pump from starving once it gets low and the fuel starts sloshing around. The pump that most people run is the AC Delco EP381 that supplies more than enough fuel for the LS engines and is a direct fit in the ’87 sending unit. As far as fuel lines go, if you want to go the easiest and cheapest way possible you can grab some higher PSI rated rubber hose with the stronger FI hose clamps. If you go that route you should be able to use your stock hard line to run from the tanks to the engine with short lengths of hose connecting them like a few people on here and a couple other forums have done. Or you can go the more expensive route and get AN fittings and adapters with some braided lines.

Engine: I’ve seen a lot of people that are real happy with the 212/218 cams and they're made by a lot of cam companies so lots to choose from. Another good option that I’ve seen is the Isky Tripple 12 that is technically a turbo cam but a bunch of people have run them in the 5.3’s NA with really good results. I’d recommend checking out ls1tech (if you haven’t already) to read up on what people are running as well as check out some of the sponsors. A lot of the sponsors over there also have members on the forums that are really great about answering questions and will even spec a cam specifically for your setup. Whichever cam you go with be sure to get some new springs to match it and most likely new pushrods to go along with the stuff you already have from the PO. Higher lift cams are hard on your valve train and require better (ie more expensive) components to handle it. If you’re on a tighter budget you can get a lower lift cam and use some LS6 springs ($50-60).

Good luck with your project. Keep the posts and the pictures coming

Anthony,
Thanks for the input!

I'm 75% sure about going with the Glock method for the A/C. Sold the R4 compressor with the old motor, so I would have wanted to reuse the TB compressor.

As far as the trans goes, I think all I have to do is disassemble down to the snap ring holding the output shaft. The biggest challenge will be remembering how it goes back together, and secondly (and most importantly) making sure I keep everything clean. I work at a manufacturing facility that makes transmissions, but I have never been inside a GM trans. Most of our failures come from foreign objects getting where they are not supposed to be.

For the fuel pumps, I'll go with the ones you suggested.


Weekend progress:

This past weekend I was able to finish removing the front core support, front bumper, old fuel lines, vacuum canister, etc. I degreased and power washed the engine compartment again, and I will paint the inner fender wells and frame with some high temp black rustolium just so it presents a bit better than the old grungy fender wells. I'll probably apply paint this week.

Next steps are to paint the inner fender wells and frame, sort through/remove the unneeded (is that a word? Unneeded?) wires sticking out of the fire wall. Then it will be engine and trans mount modification time.

After that, my attention will shift to pulling the engine and trans out of the TB and getting the wire harness shipped to the rework person.

I gotta get on top of ordering parts if I am going to meet my deadline of the end of the year!

[68basket]

I had to convert my 4x4 trans to 2wd. It did involve almost everything coming out of it to get the output shaft out.

[NorCalAnthony]

Sounds like you made some good progress over the weekend Not sure which place you're planning on sending your harness and computer to for the rework but make sure they label all of the connections for you, it'll save a headache or two when you go to hook it back up...

I've seen a couple of guys get over zealous stripping the old wiring out while they're cleaning up their engine bay and accidently get rid of stuff they still needed so I personally plan on taking my time with the wiring on both trucks and label everything as I disconnect it. It'll take longer on the front end but make things a lot easier when it comes time to put the new engine in and marry things up.

I'd definitely start ordering as many things now as you can. If you're like most of us you'll forget little parts and pieces as you go so the earlier you start collecting parts the sooner you'll realize you still need something else lol. Better to find that out while you're still prepping than when you're wanting to drop it in or fire it up.

[clinebarger]

5.3L Trailblazers have 4L60E's, I hope the PO didn't lead you to believe that it has a 4L65E?

[jrblanke]

Got the engine compartment painted today and began removing stuff from the trailblazer in order to get the engine out. I hope to have the engine pulled from the TB tomorrow (or at least ready to come out). I also got some 2x4's and made a beam to lift the bed off the frame.

As far as the wiring goes, I believe I am going to use BPautomotive. Pretty short lead time on the harness, and it looks like they do a pretty good job. I have not talked to the guy yet, only looked at his website and inquired about the lead time. I am taking lots of pictures of the engine compartment as I go so that If/when I forget where a connector/wire goes, I can look back to confirm. That is a good idea about labeling though. I might do that as well.

I do need to start ordering parts because Lord knows, I will forget something!

Previous owner didn't know exactly which trans was in it, but I figured once I get into it I will be able to tell which planetary set was in it.

[jrblanke]

Before washing.



After washing but before paint.


After paint. Still need to do the steering box and the part of the firewall that is under the factory paint.


Got the seat, carpet, and old insulation removed. I was pleased to see there was no rust in floor pans or rockers. You can see the original Indian Bronze paint color (I wish the truck was still that color).



Obviously, I didn't get the motor out as I had planned. It proved to be a bit more challenging than I thought. The front axle goes through the oil pan. Gotta read a bit about how to remove the differential.

[boostedc10]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

5.3L Trailblazers have 4L60E's, I hope the PO didn't lead you to believe that it has a 4L65E?

Cline is right, unless someone built it with the 5 pinion planetaries and called it a 65? The 65's as far as I have ever seen them only came in the half and heavy halfs with 6.0L.

[jrblanke]

Gotcha. Then it is probably a 60. I'll see if I can change the title of my post.

Speaking of change, I forgot to mention that when I took my seat out, I found $2.30! No other interesting finds from under the seat.

[Amr84ss]

Originally Posted by jrblanke

Got the engine compartment painted today and began removing stuff from the trailblazer in order to get the engine out. I hope to have the engine pulled from the TB tomorrow (or at least ready to come out). I also got some 2x4's and made a beam to lift the bed off the frame.

As far as the wiring goes, I believe I am going to use BPautomotive. Pretty short lead time on the harness, and it looks like they do a pretty good job. I have not talked to the guy yet, only looked at his website and inquired about the lead time. I am taking lots of pictures of the engine compartment as I go so that If/when I forget where a connector/wire goes, I can look back to confirm. That is a good idea about labeling though. I might do that as well.

I do need to start ordering parts because Lord knows, I will forget something!

Previous owner didn't know exactly which trans was in it, but I figured once I get into it I will be able to tell which planetary set was in it.

As far as your wiring goes, you might want to check out some reviews of BP before your make up your mind. I have read some bad things about them. Here is a link to LS1 TECH that has a few threads about them. http://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-sponsor-feedback-70/ I have not had any dealings with them myself, just thought you might want to see what problems others have had.

[jrblanke]

Bummer....

Thanks for the link!

[jrblanke]

Well it's been a year. Life happened and I'm just now getting back around to working on the project again. The reason for the sudden push is because I am tired of working on my vehicles outside and need a garage. In order to get a garage, I need to take trees down. In order to take the trees down, I have to move the vehicles on jackstands, haha. It feels good to get back to the swap. Its definitely important to get everything out of the pine needles. Its amazing how much everything has corroded in the past year. Fortunately, its just surface corrosion.

I started to pull the engine this past weekend, which was a big pain in the butt because the knock pins that were pressed into the engine block were rusted and stuck to the bellhousing. After a couple days of soaking with PB Blaster, I was able to use an air hammer to push them out from the engine side towards the transmission.

Next step will be to prep the engine for it's new home. I plan to replace the following parts:

Front and rear seals
Oil pump
Oil pan and pickup
Dip stick
PS reservoir from TB to truck version
Camshaft/lifters/pushrods/valve springs
Timing chain


Here are some pictures from the last couple days.

What it looked like after sitting for a year.



OSB was a terrible idea. front wheels broke right through it on the first time lifting. I ended up using some old pine shelving boards from a closet renovation.



Victory.

[foamypirate]

Originally Posted by Amr84ss

As far as your wiring goes, you might want to check out some reviews of BP before your make up your mind. I have read some bad things about them. Here is a link to LS1 TECH that has a few threads about them. http://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-sponsor-feedback-70/ I have not had any dealings with them myself, just thought you might want to see what problems others have had.

Originally Posted by jrblanke

Bummer....

Thanks for the link!

I know this is an old post, but BP Automotive is great. He was going through a divorce with his wife and finding a new place to work out of about June or so last year, which is where a few of the negative reviews came from. He sent out a letter to everyone affected explaining why their harnesses were later than expected. For what it's worth, I haven't seen a single negative review since then, only positive. I'd be one of those positives, Bill is AWESOME and willing to stay on the phone and answer any dumb questions you may have. I highly recommend him.

[jrblanke]

I do believe I will go with BP automotive. They seem to have a quality harness for what I can afford. I am 99 percent sure my engine has the 24x reluctor wheel, but I will find out when I remove the rear cover. Anyways, that means the rewire will be pretty affordable.

Before I send him my harness, I am trying to research how to go about having a "tow haul mode". I imagine I could have a switch somewhere on the dash (since there is no button on the column shifter) that would switch back and forth. I think it would be neat to have a performance mode and a normal driving mode. I just want to be sure I don't need an extra wire or something.

In other news, I decided to go with the Vinci high lift trucker cam. Got the confirmation email that it was being shipped on monday.

The parents are coming in this weekend, so probably won't get much done. Next step is to clean everything. I guess I will use one of those pads on the end of an air tool to get most of the loose crud off, then pressure wash it. I'm still on the fence about whether to paint it or not.

[68basket]

Originally Posted by jrblanke

I do believe I will go with BP automotive. They seem to have a quality harness for what I can afford. I am 99 percent sure my engine has the 24x reluctor wheel, but I will find out when I remove the rear cover. Anyways, that means the rewire will be pretty affordable.

Before I send him my harness, I am trying to research how to go about having a "tow haul mode". I imagine I could have a switch somewhere on the dash (since there is no button on the column shifter) that would switch back and forth. I think it would be neat to have a performance mode and a normal driving mode. I just want to be sure I don't need an extra wire or something.

In other news, I decided to go with the Vinci high lift trucker cam. Got the confirmation email that it was being shipped on monday.

The parents are coming in this weekend, so probably won't get much done. Next step is to clean everything. I guess I will use one of those pads on the end of an air tool to get most of the loose crud off, then pressure wash it. I'm still on the fence about whether to paint it or not.

You should call and speak with Bill, i am pretty sure he has an option somewhere that uses the tow haul feature.

[jrblanke]

Just a quick update here.

I got the motor cleaned up with some aluminum etching cleaner, and the pressure washer. I also got he trailblazer differential/oil pan assembly removed from the engine. I was going to disassemble the engine in the driveway and cover it with tarps, but I have decided to move the engine into the house. I just think that will be the best way to control temperature and limit introduction of foreign matter.

I got the transmission and transfer case loose, but are not out from under the truck. I didn't want to pull that out until I was ready to clean and disassemble the transmission in order to swap the rear extension housing and output shaft. I really wrestled with what to replace while I had the trans apart. I really didn't want to mess with it since it was working well, but I also feel like it would be unwise to not use the opportunity to spend a little extra money and replace wear parts, seals, and orings, etc. I ended up getting a rebuild kit that has a new 2-4 band and borg warner 3-4 clutch discs (kit only came with 6 discs and 0 steels). I also got the sonnax smart shell since that seems to be a common failure. I did not opt to buy the 5 pinion planetary.

I also chose to stay with the stock trailblazer 5.3/SS converter which should stall to around 1800-2000rpms. I think that will be plenty with the mild cam.

Other than that, the only things I have done are wire brush and paint the engine mounts and transmission crossmember. The C10 battery tray was pretty rusty, but appeared to be solid. I am going to try using the electrolysis rust removal method to remove the rust before wire brushing and painting it. I got the arm and hammer washing powder in the mail yesterday, so this weekend I will try that little science experiment.

[jrblanke]

One last thing just as information. I went ahead and ordered my harness from BP automotive. Since my engine is an early gen IV motor, it has gen IV wiring, but uses the 24x reluctor wheel. So on the website I had to purchase the 58x harness rewire package.

I am looking for someone to remove VATS from my E40 ECM. I was going to send it to Brendan from LT1Swap.com but he doesn't have the ability to flash this ECM yet. I was trying to keep the cost down for the initial flash since I will have to take the truck to be tuned once I get it running. Any suggestions?

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by jrblanke

One last thing just as information. I went ahead and ordered my harness from BP automotive. Since my engine is an early gen IV motor, it has gen IV wiring, but uses the 24x reluctor wheel. So on the website I had to purchase the 58x harness rewire package.

I am looking for someone to remove VATS from my E40 ECM. I was going to send it to Brendan from LT1Swap.com but he doesn't have the ability to flash this ECM yet. I was trying to keep the cost down for the initial flash since I will have to take the truck to be tuned once I get it running. Any suggestions?

The guy who did my harness should be able to do it. I think its about $75 for a basic flash. His name is Kenny Cash. He has a facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/lswiringhar...f=ts&ref=br_tf

He is pretty active on a lot of the LSx pages.

[68basket]

Originally Posted by jrblanke

One last thing just as information. I went ahead and ordered my harness from BP automotive. Since my engine is an early gen IV motor, it has gen IV wiring, but uses the 24x reluctor wheel. So on the website I had to purchase the 58x harness rewire package.

I am looking for someone to remove VATS from my E40 ECM. I was going to send it to Brendan from LT1Swap.com but he doesn't have the ability to flash this ECM yet. I was trying to keep the cost down for the initial flash since I will have to take the truck to be tuned once I get it running. Any suggestions?

DId you call and talk to Bill? He does PCM tuning also. He should be able to set up that tow haul feature mentioned above. My harness has a wire in it for that.

[jrblanke]

Thanks Tiny,
I contacted Kenny and it sounds like since my ECM is a gen IV, it will be $150 to remove VATS. I think what I am going to do is tow the truck to the local performance shop where the previous owner paid to have the truck tuned with HP tuners. I'll have VATS removed, then head back there at a later date once the truck is roadworthy and registered for a dyno tune.

68basket,
I did contact Bill at BP automotive and he said he was going to try to give me that tow haul option.

[jrblanke]

Quick update. About a month ago I started to disassemble the engine. When I pulled the heads I found rust in 3 of the 8 cylinders. The most severe rust was in the back 2 cylinders on the drivers side that were directly under that bird/mouse nest. The engine smelled like pee when it took it apart so I expect that the mice peed down into the cylinders and it rusted them pretty bad. After pouting for a couple weeks, I decided to clean it up and see how bad the rust was.

I flirted with the idea of just rubbing it down with PB blaster and scotch brite and then reassembling, but ultimately decided to tear it all the way down and hone the cylinder with a ball hone. The main and rod bearings looked good. I freaked out for a second when I loosened the first rod. I didn’t know that the rod caps had a flat side and a not so flat side, so I thought the rod had cracked on the not so flat side. The pistons were all in good shape and showed 0 wear on the piston skirts. I was very pleased to see that.
The honing went ok, but next time I will use a corded drill instead of a battery powered drill. I used ATF as my lubricant (the box said to use 10w30 or brake fluid). The rust cleaned up and while I can still feel it with my finger nail, but it wasn’t catching like it would a scratch. I’m just going to run it and hope for the best. I’ll add pictures later.

I said I was not going to go with a different converter, but I’m thinking about going with the TC from the 4.2L trailblazer engine. From what I have read, it stalls around 2600 on a 5.3. I believe I can get one on amazon prime for about $160 shipped.

This weekend I am planning to clean the engine and drop the heads off at the machine shop to see if they need a valve job.

Still waiting on the BP automotive harness to be returned. It has been about 8 weeks since i sent it off. I'll probably check back with them next week. They have a 6 to 8 week lead time right now.

[jrblanke]

Well here are of the well overdue pictures from the last 3 months. Looking at the pictures, I don’t feel like I have accomplished very much, but I know I am getting closer to the fun stuff.


I ordered my camshaft, valve springs kit, and push rods from vinci high performance in the beginning of December in hopes that I would be able to build the motor over Christmas time when my plant is shut down for machine maintenence. Well, the box arrived a couple days before Christmas and I was super pumped. My wife calls me and tells me the Cam came and that she brought it inside from the front porch. I asked her if it was heavy, and she said, no not really. It was at that point that I knew I was in trouble. I came home and opened the box and found 12 push rods, 8 valve springs, and the retainers. Everything else was missing. I want to give props to Roger Vinci for making it right. We worked with the shipping company and filed a claim, and I sent him back the box and parts that did make it to my house. I would highly recommend ordering from him.





Fast forward a couple of weeks. It was time to get the motor cleaned so I could start disassembly to get ready for the cam swap. Here is the engine after I finished power washing the outside. At this point, I didn’t know I would be taking the short block apart, so I was pretty concerned about getting water into the engine. I taped everything up pretty well, but ended up getting some water into the engine (based on what came out when I drained the oil).




After washing, I removed the trailblazer differential and oil pan. Removing the differential was a challenge, because for some reason it had corroded itself to the oil pan. I had to use a ball joint fork and a 3’ long pry bar to get it off.





Once I had the pan off, I saw that my engine had the 24x reluctor wheel. I now had enough information to order my wire harness. My LH6 is a little strange, because it seems to be a mix of gen III and gen IV parts. I have noticed that it is more expensive to do the wiring harness and tuning with this engine because the computer on this engine was only used a few years. I did luck out and because the previous owner had the TB tuned at a local performance shop so he still has the HP tuners license.





A little winter weather gave me an excuse to get some work done inside the house.







After removing the cylinder heads, I realized how big of a mistake I made when I left the intake off. Even though the engine was covered up all last year, I didn’t think about the fact that mice could build a nest on top of the engine and pee down the cylinders. It looked really bad when I took the heads off and reaked of urine.










The cylinder head and valve looked much worse than they really were.
I had toyed with just rubbing the cylinder with WD40 and hoping that there was no foreign matter on the piston rings, but after thinking about how much money I had in the motor, I decided to pull the pistons and hone the cylinders with a ball hone to see if it would clean up.











It’s a good thing I did, because the pistons in the cylinders with the rust were disgusting.




I cleaned the head gasket material off with a razor blade and an air grinder w/ scotchbrite.





I honed the cylinders using a 4” brush research flex hone. I do want to mention that while I was reading threads on LS1tech about honing, I saw a lot of people who wanted to hone the cylinder with the engine in the car. Some people had some success doing this, but after honing mine, I would not ever attempt to do that. There were stone particles everywhere on block.
Honing didn’t clean up everything, but I can’t catch my finger nail on any of the areas where the rust used to be, so I think it will be ok. I am putting new rings in it. Hopefully it doesn’t use too much oil.


This is what came off of the mains after honing


The two problem cylinders after honing:






Cleaned block







As a side note, I was able to convince a buddy of mine to get an old truck. So after a few months of looking, we found this really nice two tone black/white ‘87 long bed with 95k miles for $3500 bucks. That got me pumped up for working on my project again.

[jrblanke]

This week I got the pistons cleaned up. I used a nylon brush and some paint thinner. I also discovered that I will need to buy a thread chaser for the head bolt threads. I tried to hand screw the ARP head bolts into the block, but it was pretty tight. Looks like the factory head bolts had a bunch of thread sealer or lock tight that were left on the threads. Once that comes in, I think I’ll be ready to do a final cleaning and begin assembly.