Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

[Captainfab]

With an internal slave cylinder it is advisable to install a pedal stop to be able to fine tune the stroke of the master cylinder. The internal slaves do not tolerate overstroking them.

I have sold a couple of my hydraulic clutch conversion to guys installing NV4500's but I do not remember who they were.

[duallyjams]

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[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by Ta2Don

Been keeping an eye on this thread, and I can't wait to get this far with my build... Thanks for the great info
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Hey guys, hard to believe it's been almost 3 years to the day since I posted this... Here's a pic of a stock M/C I mounted... I'm running a '90 model NV3500...
Untitled by Donald Olivo, on Flickr
Untitled by Donald Olivo, on Flickr

Next up is to fabricate the linkage and plumb some brake lines...

[RobZomby]

Very very helpful thread,
Unfortunately I had a friend hack my firewall up when I was out of commission, with back problems.
I've stuck the nv4500 in, it worked for a while just using the factory prebled assembly( slave is on the passenger side)
But I've never been able to line up the stroke of the pedal it starts out at the bottom of the master cylinder and doesn't slide directly in and out because of the pivot geometry. Not it won't engage at all. I'm super frustrated. I've looked at the angled brackets for the GM cars of that era. Made by McLeod I was thinking it would help with the swing geometry issue, and the fact that it might cover up the hole that my friend put with what looks to be a hatchet.
Do you have any suggestions, on your setup or the McLeod angled up bracket for nova, chevelle etc....????
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[RobZomby]

Originally Posted by RobZomby

Very very helpful thread,
Unfortunately I had a friend hack my firewall up when I was out of commission, with back problems.
I've stuck the nv4500 in, it worked for a while just using the factory prebled assembly( slave is on the passenger side)
But I've never been able to line up the stroke of the pedal it starts out at the bottom of the master cylinder and doesn't slide directly in and out because of the pivot geometry. Not it won't engage at all. I'm super frustrated. I've looked at the angled brackets for the GM cars of that era. Made by McLeod I was thinking it would help with the swing geometry issue, and the fact that it might cover up the hole that my friend put with what looks to be a hatchet.
Do you have any suggestions, on your setup or the McLeod angled up bracket for nova, chevelle etc....????
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[RobZomby]

FYI Oh my install is in a 65 C10
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[TR65]

Hey Rob, A couple of pictures would help to understand your situation.

TR

[RobZomby]

Originally Posted by TR65

Hey Rob, A couple of pictures would help to understand your situation.

TR

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[RobZomby]

I guess I'm a complete boob, because for the life of me I can't get a single pic on here!

[Corey'sgotachev]

I have been trying to dial in my clutch (350-sm465-np205). A PO installed a hydraulic clutch conversion. When the clutch wasn't releasing and it was difficult getting in gear, I adjusted the nut on the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the issue. Today it seemed the nut had backed off so I gave it a couple more turns. When test driving it, went into gear fine but when going down the road I noticed the clutch was slipping. Back at home I backed nut off a little, trying to get it to that sweet spot. I'd twist a coupe times, crawl out, start the truck and see if it would go into "R".
After several minuted of this, I pushed the clutch in and it went to floor!
wtf?!
Upon inspection, it looks like the threaded rod that connects the pedal to the rod of the master cylinder was bent!!! holy moly
More inspection. Here's what I found.
The clutch pedal is a Wilwood, 12 " long with mounting bracket bolted to firewall. Maybe this: http://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalL...0Brake%20Pedal
The master cylinder is a Tilton kit with 7/8" bore. Maybe something like this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...FejxoCY5_w_wcB

My question(s): Should I replace the Tilton with a Wilwood MC? The angle of the rod would be better with a Wilwood? Should I just rebuild the Tilton and hope it lasts longer than this one? Buy a whole new kit and replace it all?

Please, any advice?!

[Corey'sgotachev]

Here's pic of the master cylinder... um, not sure why it's upside-down...

[Captainfab]

You aren't really going to gain anything by switching to a Wilwood master cylinder, unless the Tilton is not the correct size for the clutch slave cylinder. What slave cylinder is on your truck? Is there any adjustment at the slave cylinder?

[Corey'sgotachev]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

You aren't really going to gain anything by switching to a Wilwood master cylinder, unless the Tilton is not the correct size for the clutch slave cylinder. What slave cylinder is on your truck? Is there any adjustment at the slave cylinder?

I don't see any part number or label on the slave cylinder. Yes, I have been adjusting the clutch by tightening/backing off nut that attaches to the clutch release fork (?).
My concern is, perhaps, the nut hasn't been the problem but the rod from the pedal to MC has been bending slightly? And yesterday varying the pressure on the pedal to try to make clutch release all the way so that it could go into gear and it folded/broke. The pedal lost all pressure and it went all the way to the floor and stayed there! At first I thought the hydraulic line broke, but it was the rod that folded over. I'm just not sure of the angle of the pedal to the MC is wrong? If I buy the rebuild kit from Tilton, what's to say that rod will also bend? There is only one spot on Wilwood pedal to attach the rod.
I'm not sure why whoever did the conversion didn't buy one kit from one manufacturer; not a piece from many different ones. Wouldn't they work better if it is an engineered system?

[Corey'sgotachev]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

You aren't really going to gain anything by switching to a Wilwood master cylinder, unless the Tilton is not the correct size for the clutch slave cylinder. What slave cylinder is on your truck? Is there any adjustment at the slave cylinder?

At the Wilwood site, the slave cylinder they have, the bore is 7/8". The Tilton MC I have is 7/8". To be correct, the slave cylinder bore should match the master cylinder?
The drawing implies the rod should go straight through the opening into the master cylinder? The one I took a pic of, the rod is bent "in half". It's kind of hard to see with all the super-clean wiring under the dash.

[Captainfab]

If the clutch master cylinder pushrod is bending, there is definitely something wrong or binding up somewhere. I would suggest finding the problem before replacing or repairing the clutch master.

Originally Posted by Corey'sgotachev

I don't see any part number or label on the slave cylinder. Yes, I have been adjusting the clutch by tightening/backing off nut that attaches to the clutch release fork (?).
My concern is, perhaps, the nut hasn't been the problem but the rod from the pedal to MC has been bending slightly? And yesterday varying the pressure on the pedal to try to make clutch release all the way so that it could go into gear and it folded/broke. The pedal lost all pressure and it went all the way to the floor and stayed there! At first I thought the hydraulic line broke, but it was the rod that folded over. I'm just not sure of the angle of the pedal to the MC is wrong? If I buy the rebuild kit from Tilton, what's to say that rod will also bend? There is only one spot on Wilwood pedal to attach the rod.
I'm not sure why whoever did the conversion didn't buy one kit from one manufacturer; not a piece from many different ones. Wouldn't they work better if it is an engineered system?

Yes, ideally the clutch master and slave should be the same bore. That is how I size the clutch masters in the conversion kits I make and sell. Unless the factory components were different, then I usually go with what GM supplied in the original application.

Originally Posted by Corey'sgotachev

At the Wilwood site, the slave cylinder they have, the bore is 7/8". The Tilton MC I have is 7/8". To be correct, the slave cylinder bore should match the master cylinder?
The drawing implies the rod should go straight through the opening into the master cylinder? The one I took a pic of, the rod is bent "in half". It's kind of hard to see with all the super-clean wiring under the dash.

[keetonb25]

Nice setup! Had this in mind for mine and this confirmed what I'll be doing with factory gto t56 hydraulics. Thanks.

[Captainfab]

Are you referring to the kit that I make and sell?

Originally Posted by keetonb25

Nice setup! Had this in mind for mine and this confirmed what I'll be doing with factory gto t56 hydraulics. Thanks.

[keetonb25]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Are you referring to the kit that I make and sell?

No I was referring to the original post. But I looked up your kit and it looks great! If I fail I'll pick one up.

[RobZomby]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

With an internal slave cylinder it is advisable to install a pedal stop to be able to fine tune the stroke of the master cylinder. The internal slaves do not tolerate overstroking them.

I have sold a couple of my hydraulic clutch conversion to guys installing NV4500's but I do not remember who they were.

I ordered your setup for master cylinder plate and linkage looks great, and have checked into hydraulic hose but now my issue is the flipping slave cylinder. Does anyone have a part number or a name for a slave that has threads instead of the quick connect for the push type nv4500??? Any help would be greatly appreciated...
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[Captainfab]

Are you working with an external slave cylinder or the internal hydraulic release bearing?

Originally Posted by RobZomby

I ordered your setup for master cylinder plate and linkage looks great, and have checked into hydraulic hose but now my issue is the flipping slave cylinder. Does anyone have a part number or a name for a slave that has threads instead of the quick connect for the push type nv4500??? Any help would be greatly appreciated...
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[RobZomby]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Are you working with an external slave cylinder or the internal hydraulic release bearing?

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[RobZomby]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

With an internal slave cylinder it is advisable to install a pedal stop to be able to fine tune the stroke of the master cylinder. The internal slaves do not tolerate overstroking them.

I have sold a couple of my hydraulic clutch conversion to guys installing NV4500's but I do not remember who they were.

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[RobZomby]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

With an internal slave cylinder it is advisable to install a pedal stop to be able to fine tune the stroke of the master cylinder. The internal slaves do not tolerate overstroking them.

I have sold a couple of my hydraulic clutch conversion to guys installing NV4500's but I do not remember who they were.

Thanks for your reply, I'm using the external, I think I've finally found what I need (88-91 slave for gm trucks) just trying to find all the fittings to convert its m12x1.0 fittings to 3/13 or a.n. Fittings. I'm going to have to hard line it because I can't find anyone to make a hose. What a pain in my axe. It sucks living so rural my closest parts store that has fittings is 40 miles away.
Thanks again Cap.
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