08-30-2014, 12:31 PM | #1 |
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Door hinge
I am sure this has been covered more than a few times. My drivers side door hinges are pretty wasted. Can I just change pins and bushing or do I have to replace the whole hinge it's self???????
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08-30-2014, 03:15 PM | #2 |
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Re: Door hinge
You can just do the pin and bushings. It's not hard but it's not fun either. You'll need another person if you want it to go really easy.
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08-31-2014, 07:56 AM | #3 |
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Re: Door hinge
Good deal!!! Thanks. I was so hope that was the case. Replacing the entire hinge does not look like a fun job.
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08-31-2014, 09:43 AM | #4 |
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Re: Door hinge
Its not cheap, but get the parts from the gm dealer (or equiv source). I found that there is a pretty big difference in dimensions compared to the Dorman/Help parts from the parts store. I put the aftermarket stuff in and there was still slop in the hinge. I had enough to do both doors so I tried the other set with the same results. The GM stuff had tighter dimensions and fit so much better. No more slop. I will see if I can find the receipt and gather some part numbers.
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09-07-2014, 09:56 AM | #5 |
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Re: Door hinge
I just did mine with the Dorman ones and they worked perfect...
And you can do it with one person using a floor jack and some bungee cords to hold the door.
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09-07-2014, 10:09 AM | #6 |
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Re: Door hinge
LMC sells a very good kit. I used it. ( I did a magazine article) " American Truck" by LMC, using my truck, that shows a 6- page article how to change them. Maybe they will send you the mag? It was done about 4 years ago in S. California.
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09-07-2014, 12:02 PM | #7 |
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Re: Door hinge
If the hinge itself is worn then you can do a larger bushing kit as seen here.
http://www.hingekits.com/part-number...Number=GMB017A You can also get a whole kit from there with pins and bushings but they are a little pricy, although quality is next to none so pick your poison.
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09-14-2014, 11:42 AM | #8 |
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Re: Door hinge
I called the dealership and asked about them replacing my pins/bushings and they said they usually only change the bushings. Is that common cause I always thought it had to be both ?
Oh and the stealership wanted $525 to do both doors . I'm getting lazy , but not that lazy to pay that! |
09-15-2014, 12:08 AM | #9 | |
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Re: Door hinge
Quote:
$40 something in parts, & a Saturday morning. I suggest a local bodyshop. They do that stuff all the time.
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09-15-2014, 08:39 AM | #10 | |
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Re: Door hinge
Quote:
Paul
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09-16-2014, 06:20 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Door hinge
Quote:
Maybe call LMC Truck & ask them? They sponsor the mag.
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09-16-2014, 10:45 PM | #12 |
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Re: Door hinge
Check out this video for some idea of what you need to do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvsIHQJIuxY I do hinges alone all of the time by using an office chair with the arm rests removed. I lower the chair slide it under the door and then raise it till it is against the door. I have a beam overhead in my shop that I then tie a rope to the door frame with the window down to the beam. Tape the edge of the door and fender to protect the paint and then drive out the pins. I grease the pins before driving them back in. I don't beat the new bushings in but use a homemade press using a socket and a bolt to push the bushings in. You will need to buy a cheap tool to reinstall the door check spring. |
09-17-2014, 07:37 AM | #13 |
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Re: Door hinge
If you have a cherry picker/engine hoise and a spare V-belt, you're golden. Roll the window down a few inches, wrap the V-belt around the top of the door and use it to hook to the cherry picker. You can move the cherry picker to whatever position works best and go from there.
Don't buy the pins, they rarely wear out. Get GM bushings, they're considerably better than aftermarket. Don't hammer the new bushings in, use a 5/16" x 1.5" bolt with a washer on one side and 3/8" compression fitting, washer and nut on the other. Use just a washer on the side it's going in from and put the plumbing compression fitting on the other side with the washer on top, it allows the bushing to go completely through the hole, a flat washer won't. Tighten the nut and it'll slip right in without taking a chance of breaking the flange on the new bushing when you whack it with a hammer. Now, does anybody have a source for the teflon/metal band that GM used in the OBS 2000 trucks? I need a couple but haven't been able to find them anywhere. Last edited by BigBlocksRule; 09-17-2014 at 07:47 AM. |
09-17-2014, 08:19 AM | #14 |
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Re: Door hinge
The neatest way to support the door, raise/lower & align the door angle was a floor transmission jack w/ wood blocks for height. ( I used one)...
But not everyone can get their hands on one.
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09-17-2014, 11:22 PM | #15 |
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Re: Door hinge
You know for the longest time, I would close the doors on my 93 and have that compression type close where you really had to slam the door for them to close. After replacing pins it still had a that same problem until I asked my body shop buddy who had a similar truck, and I would say is one of the best body shop guys around, bend the hinge/door some and in 10 mins, the doors close with little effort now. Not sure how he did it exactly but it still makes me happy to do this day to finally have doors that close easily.
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09-18-2014, 05:19 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Door hinge
Quote:
I have seen them use a piece of 2x4 between the bottom door near the hinge area. " but don't try this at home "
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09-18-2014, 09:32 PM | #17 |
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Re: Door hinge
To align a door with welded hinges I first remove the striker pin so you know how the door actually fits without the latches influence. If the door is sagging you need to determine if the top needs to go forward or the bottom needs to go back. You are trying to align the door with the rear of the cab as that doesn't adjust, the fender will move to fit the door. To make a hinge move forward I use a 1" diameter piece of steel about a foot long(an old PTO shaft works good) and put it against the hinge and hit with a 3lb. hammer . start with a solid hit and hit it a little harder till it moves. To make a hinge move back you need to bind the hinge by putting a block of wood or even a socket in the hinge with the door open and gently push the door like you are trying to close it. Go easy as it is easy to over do it. When the door fits the opening install the striker and align it to the door latch.
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09-27-2014, 09:00 PM | #18 |
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Re: Door hinge
I own a body shop, and rebuild wrecks and during that time frame those trucks were my bread and butter. I ave changed hundreds of bushing and pins while it is not always needed to chance the pins and if you catch it soon enough you won't need pins. However if you let it go to far you mat go long enough to need a striker pin and even a door latch. I have had customers come to me holding their door shut cause their striker pin had broken off and their door hinges were cracked.The big thoughts on the doors when those trucks came out was the hinges were glued on because everyone saw the sealant around the hinges on both door and body side. I can assure everyone that is far from the truth, it take s the biggest part of a day to get those darn hinges off of either the door side or the body side. Also I did [and still do pins and bushings way less than quoted above . My price was somewhere around $35 to $50 per door me providing the parts to do it [being GM parts]. That would include replacing the roller had it dropped off by tapping it back into its place and welding it up or if a new one was needed I would do that too and I had tons of door springs from the dozens of junk outs I had. Jim
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11-23-2014, 06:56 PM | #19 |
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Re: Door hinge
Went to my local auto parts store and for less than $20, the door works like brand new!!
The hardest thing was trying to get the spring back in. |
11-23-2014, 07:40 PM | #20 |
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Re: Door hinge
Good to hear, I just got all my parts for both doors from LMC even got new latches and strikers. Now I'm going to borrow a friend's cherry picker and get it done
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11-24-2014, 08:03 AM | #21 |
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Re: Door hinge
If you are doing it yourself with a cherry picker I would put a few layers of tape on the edge of the fender and front edge of the door to prevent chipping.
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11-24-2014, 04:23 PM | #22 |
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Re: Door hinge
Last time I did it this way was before paint, but that is a great idea and will use it.. my paint is in great condition and I would hate to have an accident.
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11-25-2014, 07:51 AM | #23 |
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Re: Door hinge
I wish folks would pay attention to what bwood said. The parts store stuff is crap compared to genuine GM stuff.
I bought all of the Dorman stuff for my 90 model. And wound up throwing it away and getting the better stuff from GM. No comparison on the fit. If you think the Dorman stuff from the parts store fits well, you haven't ever used GM replacements. Well, well worth the extra money. Learn from my mistake, if you want it done as good as possible, go to GM for the supplies.
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11-25-2014, 08:00 AM | #24 |
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Re: Door hinge
^ been there, done that. Cheap parts store bushings didn't last a year for me.
I have kept several door pins when I parted out trucks, I don't have a single one with any detectable wear on it. I don't replace pins anymore, just bushings. Pins apparently only wear when bushings get so bad that it exposed the steel of the hinge. |
11-25-2014, 04:45 PM | #25 |
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Re: Door hinge
I am a true believer in using dealer parts when ever possible. I just happened to be at the parts store picking up other parts and remembered I needed them. When they prematurely wear out, I will replace with GM stuff.
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