Hard to start when warmed up - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Rabid · 11-10-2002, 03:36 PM

Truck starts great in the morning. Choke kicks in and everything. Truck doesn't miss or sputter at all when idling and all through my drive to work. HOWEVER, if I stop anywhere enroute to work and shut her off (i.e. gas station for fuel, coffee, cigs, etc..) It is a pain to restart. It acts like it's flooded when I try to restart it. I have to turn it over and over with my foot nearly to the floor to get it to start. So what gives? The thing starts fine when it's cold but after I warm it up and drive it a mile it is a pain in the ass to restart. Also, you can smell the gasoline when I struggle to restart it. Any help is always appreciated.

HOLLEY 600
Electric Choke
(1yr old, no problems....yet)

Gordo · 11-10-2002, 04:15 PM

It may not be your case but, if the fuel line runs close to the engine before it reaches the carb, the gas in the line may "boil" after shut down (no fan air) and the gas will push it's way past the needle and seat, filling the bowl and flooding the engine. That's one theory, worth takin' a look see.

*Fast68Chevy* · 11-10-2002, 04:35 PM

does it turn over irregularly and/or slowly kinda like how when a battery is low charge ?
]

*Piston* · 11-10-2002, 05:13 PM

A few things come to mind.
Leaking needle/seat or float level set too high.
Are you positive the choke is releasing all way?

**JIMs70GMC** · 11-10-2002, 07:04 PM

Mine does the exact same thing. Starts great in the morning. Runs great. But try and start it 15 minutes after cutting it off and it takes for ever. Then once it does start it runs real rich. Then about 30 seconds later it 's idling good no problems. On mine the fuel line is original. Carb is a replacement Q jet put on by the previous owner(about 3 years ago). One last thing If I let mine cool down (say about an hour) it starts right up, and idles fine. It's only after it has sat for about 10-15 minutes. Not to jump all over Rapid's post, but I'm very interested in the replies, also. Thanks,

chevykid04 · 11-10-2002, 09:34 PM

dont know if it would help but the previous owner of my truck put on a 1 inch carb spacer and that helped with the flooding, still does it every now and then but not too bad, just throw it to the boards and she fires right up

hrc200x · 11-11-2002, 12:21 AM

I have the same problem on my 454. Starts fine cold, then after it warms up it sometimes will and sometimes won't start... sounds like the battery is low, is this cause the exghaust is too close to the starter/soilinoid? I seen a starter the other day that had a what looked to be factory heat sheild, would that help?

*Piston* · 11-11-2002, 12:25 AM

The cooler the starter, the better... Heat affects the windings/brushes inside the starter also causes the soleniod to make poor contact (expanding plastic).

As for the other problems... again, check your float level, choke release, also make sure you dont have any heater hoses touching the fuel line.

67shortie · 11-11-2002, 01:21 AM

Many things come to mind, but one stands out: choke setting, the plate is closed too far and not letting enough air in when warm.

chevykid04 · 11-11-2002, 10:05 PM

oh yeah , forgot about the starter, check the ground wire to the solonoid, mine was loose, that made it hard to start,oh and if you have headers, that could be making it pretty hot

Rabid · 11-12-2002, 12:54 PM

Thanks for all the replys. To answer a few of the comments:

No, the starter doesnt hesitate or slow down when I try to restart it.

No, the fuel lines are not to close to "hot" things.

Some of the comments have me wondering though. For example the one about the choke not working properly and the one about the solenoid getting too hot. I replaced the starter about a month ago and when I put it all back together I forgot to put my heat shield back on. About 5 years ago I had put that heat shield on when I was in Texas. It helped out tremendously. However, now I'm in Alaska and it isnt 105 degrees. Matter of fact it is about 100 degrees colder. If it is in fact the solenoid getting too hot that is causing these starting problems I'd be pretty surprised. I can't rule it out though. I'm gonna recheck the carb settings and linkage then put another heat shield on my starter solenoid. One of those two hopefully will solve this.

wingnut · 11-13-2002, 01:58 AM

I've got almost the same problem, so here's my $0.02. Took off the stock Q-jet and stock manifold off my son's '70 and installed a performer and 1406. Runs great till it gets to operating temp and then it starts to load up a stops and will flood and die if your not careful. Then after it sits for a few minutes, I have to hold my foot to the floor because it floods just sitting there. Called Edle, "it didn't do this before I installed the new equipment", and they told me that it sounded like the carb was getting hot and the gas was percolating out of the carb. I pulled the carb off the truck after it sat for awhile, and the gas level in the bowls was low, but the float level is right on. The needle and seat are also OK. So I guess they might have a point, but it's a little irratating. Also make sure that the exhaust reducers, on the intake manifold gaskets are installed to restrict some exhaust flow to the bottom of the carb.

chevypete396 · 11-13-2002, 06:53 AM

My $.02

I think Wingnut is really close...

I think your carb is leaking fuel and flooding your engine when you stop. As a matter of fact its doing it all the time but when its running it is not causing you any problems, except for maybe slightly increased idle which you have probobly compensated for by readjusting it awhile back. When it sits over night the carb cools and your fuel has plenty of time to evaporate so it isn't doing it in the morning. the odd thing is because your engine starts good in the morning, your carb isn't odviously completely draining like the q-jet did on my 79 blazer when I lived in Alaska (ironicly) and had similar problems. I am not positive why your carb is leaking down from the info you provided so I won't b.s. you whith an answer. Enjoy Alaska and good luck with it... Pete.

snow man · 11-13-2002, 10:30 AM

next time you drive it when you get it to operating temp. shut it off pull the top of the air cleaner off and see if you see it leaking inside the manifold while it is sitting. i think you will find the carb is leaking and flooding it out when you shut it off. its time for a good rebuild,just my 2 cents worth. snow man

Rabid · 05-10-2003, 08:32 PM

TTT

OK, I'm an idiot. The answer was given. The thing is leaking when I shut it off. It seeps into the secondaries. Is this a total rebuild or what? The carb is only a year and half old.

cableguy0 · 05-10-2003, 11:58 PM

first i would try a carb spacer what happening is the fuel is boiling in the carb and being forced into the motor most likely get one of those synthetic spacers because they dont conduct heat like the metals ones do

Rabid · 05-11-2003, 02:41 PM

How thick of a spacer? I've seen some pretty big ones and then again I've seen some that are only an inch in height.

lukecp · 05-11-2003, 10:37 PM

You could just try a 1/4" thick carb gasket if you don't already have one. Get a good Fel Pro gasket. They are made out of black gasket material, and have crush limiters so you can't overtightnen them. They cost about $10 or less at the parts store. They won't have one for your application since GM used Qjets, so you will proably have to go dig around and find one in the Holley pattern. I ended up buying one for a Chevy 366-427 engine out of a C60.

ZOOMY · 05-12-2003, 09:53 PM

You might want to check your fuel line pressure. Some carbs (needles & seats) won't tolerate high fuel pressure. Did you put a high performance fuel pump on it ???........Zoomy

Mike76251 · 05-13-2003, 12:15 PM

If/when you get that spacer make double sure you don't overtightin the four screws holding the carb down.

I see this a lot and it always warps the crap out of the carb.
I takes a new carb usually to fix it.

11-10-2002, 03:36 PM	#1
Rabid Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI Posts: 1,237	Hard to start when warmed up Truck starts great in the morning. Choke kicks in and everything. Truck doesn't miss or sputter at all when idling and all through my drive to work. HOWEVER, if I stop anywhere enroute to work and shut her off (i.e. gas station for fuel, coffee, cigs, etc..) It is a pain to restart. It acts like it's flooded when I try to restart it. I have to turn it over and over with my foot nearly to the floor to get it to start. So what gives? The thing starts fine when it's cold but after I warm it up and drive it a mile it is a pain in the ass to restart. Also, you can smell the gasoline when I struggle to restart it. Any help is always appreciated. HOLLEY 600 Electric Choke (1yr old, no problems....yet)

11-10-2002, 04:15 PM	#2
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	It may not be your case but, if the fuel line runs close to the engine before it reaches the carb, the gas in the line may "boil" after shut down (no fan air) and the gas will push it's way past the needle and seat, filling the bowl and flooding the engine. That's one theory, worth takin' a look see. __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

11-10-2002, 07:04 PM	#5
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Mine does the exact same thing. Starts great in the morning. Runs great. But try and start it 15 minutes after cutting it off and it takes for ever. Then once it does start it runs real rich. Then about 30 seconds later it 's idling good no problems. On mine the fuel line is original. Carb is a replacement Q jet put on by the previous owner(about 3 years ago). One last thing If I let mine cool down (say about an hour) it starts right up, and idles fine. It's only after it has sat for about 10-15 minutes. Not to jump all over Rapid's post, but I'm very interested in the replies, also. Thanks, __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

11-10-2002, 09:34 PM	#6
chevykid04 4 speed, hurst shiftin Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Hudson, Wi Posts: 406	dont know if it would help but the previous owner of my truck put on a 1 inch carb spacer and that helped with the flooding, still does it every now and then but not too bad, just throw it to the boards and she fires right up __________________ Shane 1970 Chevy C10

11-11-2002, 12:21 AM	#7
hrc200x Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Minnesota Posts: 201	I have the same problem on my 454. Starts fine cold, then after it warms up it sometimes will and sometimes won't start... sounds like the battery is low, is this cause the exghaust is too close to the starter/soilinoid? I seen a starter the other day that had a what looked to be factory heat sheild, would that help? __________________ '75 Chevy 3/4 4x4, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 3" lifted gas tanks, '83 cab, '88 clip, 35" cooper tires, American Racing Baja rims, 350, 700r4, 208. Last edited by hrc200x; 11-11-2002 at 12:23 AM.

11-10-2002, 04:35 PM	#3
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	does it turn over irregularly and/or slowly kinda like how when a battery is low charge ? ]

11-10-2002, 05:13 PM	#4
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,301	A few things come to mind. Leaking needle/seat or float level set too high. Are you positive the choke is releasing all way?

11-11-2002, 12:25 AM	#8
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,301	The cooler the starter, the better... Heat affects the windings/brushes inside the starter also causes the soleniod to make poor contact (expanding plastic). As for the other problems... again, check your float level, choke release, also make sure you dont have any heater hoses touching the fuel line.

11-11-2002, 01:21 AM	#9
67shortie Green club Join Date: May 2002 Location: Central CA Posts: 1,059	Many things come to mind, but one stands out: choke setting, the plate is closed too far and not letting enough air in when warm. __________________ 71 short/fleet ECE 4/6 drop, LQ4/700r4/3.42 gears 70 SS396 Chevelle 427/200-4R/3.73posi 61 Lincoln Continental, black on black Son you are going to drive me to drinkin if you don't stop drivin that hot rod lincoln

11-11-2002, 10:05 PM	#10
chevykid04 4 speed, hurst shiftin Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Hudson, Wi Posts: 406	oh yeah , forgot about the starter, check the ground wire to the solonoid, mine was loose, that made it hard to start,oh and if you have headers, that could be making it pretty hot __________________ Shane 1970 Chevy C10

11-12-2002, 12:54 PM	#11
Rabid Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI Posts: 1,237	Thanks for all the replys. To answer a few of the comments: No, the starter doesnt hesitate or slow down when I try to restart it. No, the fuel lines are not to close to "hot" things. Some of the comments have me wondering though. For example the one about the choke not working properly and the one about the solenoid getting too hot. I replaced the starter about a month ago and when I put it all back together I forgot to put my heat shield back on. About 5 years ago I had put that heat shield on when I was in Texas. It helped out tremendously. However, now I'm in Alaska and it isnt 105 degrees. Matter of fact it is about 100 degrees colder. If it is in fact the solenoid getting too hot that is causing these starting problems I'd be pretty surprised. I can't rule it out though. I'm gonna recheck the carb settings and linkage then put another heat shield on my starter solenoid. One of those two hopefully will solve this.

11-13-2002, 01:58 AM	#12
wingnut Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Glendora, Ca. Posts: 57	I've got almost the same problem, so here's my $0.02. Took off the stock Q-jet and stock manifold off my son's '70 and installed a performer and 1406. Runs great till it gets to operating temp and then it starts to load up a stops and will flood and die if your not careful. Then after it sits for a few minutes, I have to hold my foot to the floor because it floods just sitting there. Called Edle, "it didn't do this before I installed the new equipment", and they told me that it sounded like the carb was getting hot and the gas was percolating out of the carb. I pulled the carb off the truck after it sat for awhile, and the gas level in the bowls was low, but the float level is right on. The needle and seat are also OK. So I guess they might have a point, but it's a little irratating. Also make sure that the exhaust reducers, on the intake manifold gaskets are installed to restrict some exhaust flow to the bottom of the carb.

11-13-2002, 06:53 AM	#13
chevypete396 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Fernley, Nevada, USA Posts: 540	My $.02 I think Wingnut is really close... I think your carb is leaking fuel and flooding your engine when you stop. As a matter of fact its doing it all the time but when its running it is not causing you any problems, except for maybe slightly increased idle which you have probobly compensated for by readjusting it awhile back. When it sits over night the carb cools and your fuel has plenty of time to evaporate so it isn't doing it in the morning. the odd thing is because your engine starts good in the morning, your carb isn't odviously completely draining like the q-jet did on my 79 blazer when I lived in Alaska (ironicly) and had similar problems. I am not positive why your carb is leaking down from the info you provided so I won't b.s. you whith an answer. Enjoy Alaska and good luck with it... Pete. __________________ 1968 Chevy - 3/4 Ton - 4X4 - Longbed - 383ci - TH350 - NP205 Building the motor, painting the engine bay, rewireing everything... (775)-527-1199 / ryanspeterson@msn.com

11-13-2002, 10:30 AM	#14
snow man Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: mt. zion illinois Posts: 276	carb problems next time you drive it when you get it to operating temp. shut it off pull the top of the air cleaner off and see if you see it leaking inside the manifold while it is sitting. i think you will find the carb is leaking and flooding it out when you shut it off. its time for a good rebuild,just my 2 cents worth. snow man

05-10-2003, 08:32 PM	#15
Rabid Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI Posts: 1,237	TTT OK, I'm an idiot. The answer was given. The thing is leaking when I shut it off. It seeps into the secondaries. Is this a total rebuild or what? The carb is only a year and half old.



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05-10-2003, 11:58 PM	#16
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	first i would try a carb spacer what happening is the fuel is boiling in the carb and being forced into the motor most likely get one of those synthetic spacers because they dont conduct heat like the metals ones do __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

05-11-2003, 02:41 PM	#17
Rabid Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI Posts: 1,237	Spacer thickness How thick of a spacer? I've seen some pretty big ones and then again I've seen some that are only an inch in height.

05-11-2003, 10:37 PM	#18
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	You could just try a 1/4" thick carb gasket if you don't already have one. Get a good Fel Pro gasket. They are made out of black gasket material, and have crush limiters so you can't overtightnen them. They cost about $10 or less at the parts store. They won't have one for your application since GM used Qjets, so you will proably have to go dig around and find one in the Holley pattern. I ended up buying one for a Chevy 366-427 engine out of a C60. __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

05-12-2003, 09:53 PM	#19
ZOOMY Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: WIS Posts: 1,752	PRESSURE You might want to check your fuel line pressure. Some carbs (needles & seats) won't tolerate high fuel pressure. Did you put a high performance fuel pump on it ???........Zoomy

05-13-2003, 12:15 PM	#20
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,500	If/when you get that spacer make double sure you don't overtightin the four screws holding the carb down. I see this a lot and it always warps the crap out of the carb. I takes a new carb usually to fix it.

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