Anyone running a 2.5" lift in front with 4" in rear?

[derotoreut]

I'm thinking of installing the 2-1/2" Skyjacker on my 70 K10 swb with 33 X 12.5-15 tires on my stock 8" rims. I'm planning to replace my 43 year old springs all the way around, and don't want to use a rear block. I read some where that the 2-1/2" lift will leave the rear end low and some guys use a 4" spring lift in the back. Anyone do this before? Any pictures with either the 2-1/2" lift (front & rear springs) or 2-1/2" front with 4" rear spring lift? Any input is appreciated. Thanks

[dieseldawg142]

usually the rear doesn't need to be lifted as high. every 4x4 truck i've owned needed less lift in the back.
with 4 in the back & 2.5 on the front, you might lose that 4 by look & resemble a jacked up hot rod.
if you want to go all spring, have you looked at this skyjacker kit?
http://skyjacker.com/product.php?ProdID=30800
2.5 on the front, 2 in the rear, pricey though. what about 2.5 fronts & a shackle flip in the rear. or really cheap, 2.5's on the front & a 2" block in the rear. nothing easier, the H-D'est trucks coming out of detroit use factory blocks

[derotoreut]

That's exactly the kit I was looking at. I just thought I would change springs all the way around. They are 43 year old springs, so if I'm gonna do it, might as well do the small lift. Good ideas though. I appreciate it.

[tj_1970_k20]

I just installed the Skyjacker springs in my '70 k20 longbed which is running 33s. Spring C225S brought the front up 3" to 10" between wheel well and top of tire. Spring CR12S brought the back up 1" to 8" between wheel well and tire. I'm guessing the 4" rear spring would be just right. I've also got the H7051 and H7041 hydro shocks and I'm very happy with the ride quality.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by tj_1970_k20

I just installed the Skyjacker springs in my '70 k20 longbed which is running 33s. Spring C225S brought the front up 3" to 10" between wheel well and top of tire. Spring CR12S brought the back up 1" to 8" between wheel well and tire. I'm guessing the 4" rear spring would be just right. I've also got the H7051 and H7041 hydro shocks and I'm very happy with the ride quality.

No offense, but it looks like the front is higher then the back. This is what I want to avoid. Now I'm second guessing buying the CR12S rear springs. I wonder if I did buy that kit (C225AKS) and it didn't raise the back up enough, if I could install a small block under the springs? I'll have to investigate some more. Thanks for input.

Anyone else have any experience with this?

[BLAZERMAN]

I have heard of Blazer and Suburban owners using the higher lift springs in the back due to the extra weight in the rear but i wouldn't try this with a pickup. I prefer the front slightly higher than the rear but that's just personal preference, if your seeking a level truck I would go 4" front and 2.5" in the rear, you can always use a 1" zero rate, 2" or 2.5" block to get the rear exactly where you want it....not so easily done with the front. If you do go with a higher lift in the rear than the front and you don't like it your kinda stuck! You may get by with a 1" zero rate block to lift the front a little but anything more than that and you'll be changing springs again.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by BLAZERMAN

I have heard of Blazer and Suburban owners using the higher lift springs in the back due to the extra weight in the rear but i wouldn't try this with a pickup. I prefer the front slightly higher than the rear but that's just personal preference, if your seeking a level truck I would go 4" front and 2.5" in the rear, you can always use a 1" zero rate, 2" or 2.5" block to get the rear exactly where you want it....not so easily done with the front. If you do go with a higher lift in the rear than the front and you don't like it your kinda stuck! You may get by with a 1" zero rate block to lift the front a little but anything more than that and you'll be changing springs again.

I'm curious why would you go 4" in front and 2.5" rear? I would think that would put the truck up even higher in the front than tj_1970_k20's truck is now. His is higher in the front with 2.5" front & 2" rear.

What about going with the Skyjacker kit C225AKS, which has 2.5" front and 2" rear, and then use a block in rear as needed to level it off? I'm trying to keep a smaller lift as my truck is all stock and I don't want to get too far away from that.

BTW what is a "Zero Rate Block"? Are the rear blocks available in various sizes for these trucks?

[onebadbowtie]

Most blocks are pretty universal and you can get them in about any size you want. I would do what you are saying by doing the 2.5 front and 2 inch rear. Then if needed add a block in the back. ORD offers a 1 inch block that bolts to your leaf springs making in a bit safer that a regular lift block it also allows you to offset your axle forward or backward if needed to center the axle in the wheel well. Here is a link to them

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm

[BLAZERMAN]

Sorry about that I got off track with the talk about 4" springs, I reread your post and see you want a 2.5" lift. The same thing holds true, I'm just saying run a smaller lift in the rear than the front with whatever size you need, the rear is easy to adjust in about any increment you need to get it level with the front. I like the stance of tj_1970_k20s truck, but if your wanting a dead level truck it can be tricky, with any of these lift kit springs it's a guessing game as to how much they will actually raise your truck.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by onebadbowtie

Most blocks are pretty universal and you can get them in about any size you want. I would do what you are saying by doing the 2.5 front and 2 inch rear. Then if needed add a block in the back. ORD offers a 1 inch block that bolts to your leaf springs making in a bit safer that a regular lift block it also allows you to offset your axle forward or backward if needed to center the axle in the wheel well. Here is a link to them

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm

That's awesome, thanks. I'm slowly learning about the 4X4's, and you guys really make it better.

[onebadbowtie]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

That's awesome, thanks. I'm slowly learning about the 4X4's, and you guys really make it better.

no problem man thats what we are here for....to help each other out

[special-K]

I go with the same lift spring all around with no issues of rear sitting too low. I think 4wds look like crap sitting assendhigh. But,mostly,they ride and handle worse that way. Level to slightly lower in rear makes a truck track way straighter and bumps don't get thrown onto the front wheels. High crown roads are the most obvious. That truck shown sits level. Don't look at the wheel wells. The rear wells are lower on the body. Look at the bottom of the body and the curb/sidewalk/road...parallel. My not be perfectly parallel,but real close. Don't get distracted by the saddle tank or the driveshaft

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by special-K

I go with the same lift spring all around with no issues of rear sitting too low. I think 4wds look like crap sitting assendhigh. But,mostly,they ride and handle worse that way. Level to slightly lower in rear makes a truck track way straighter and bumps don't get thrown onto the front wheels. High crown roads are the most obvious. That truck shown sits level. Don't look at the wheel wells. The rear wells are lower on the body. Look at the bottom of the body and the curb/sidewalk/road...parallel. My not be perfectly parallel,but real close. Don't get distracted by the saddle tank or the driveshaft

You're right. Now that I look closer at the truck, it is sitting level. I think the curb and road grade threw me off. I also spoke to someone at Skyjacker who told me the 2.5" front/2.0" rear lift is designed to make the truck sit level. It should sit about 2 inches or so above stock height. If that's the case then I'm good with that.

[special-K]

Every time I look at that picture I'm not sure. But,it's not as nose-high as it appears at first glance (if up at all). That fence,the shadow from the light pole,etc. all throw it off. The fender openings are taller in the front (by approx. 2"),so his tire to body measurements sound about right. I think the 4wds look nose-up when they are level because,traditionally,2wds are nose down. I always wondered that,anyway.

[derotoreut]

Well I ended up ordering my Skyjacker 2.5" lift kit with new soft-springs all the way around. Pricey, but I shopped around for the best deal I could find. It will be interesting to see how it turns out. Hopefully it gives me what I'm looking for. I'm hoping that it lifts the truck up around 2" over stock and sits level. I'll take some measurements on the truck before and after and we'll find out. It'll be a winter project, so I won't have any feedback for a while, but I'll definitely keep you guys posted.

[blackhawkip]

Have you received your lift yet? Look forward to seeing it installed. I personally ordered the 2 ½" skyjacker lift with spring fronts and block rear. I debated on the rear springs but figured I could always add them if the blocks didn't work as I hope. Post the pics when you get them.

[Vintage Windmills]

I just put a set of 2.5 skyjackers on the front of my K20 today. No pics yet but will have some in a day or two and put in my "get drivable" thread in my sig. It is more level now, maybe a tad lower in the rear, I will look at it more tomorrow. If I do anything, it will just be 1" blocks in the rear. Stock, it was higher in the back by about 2", but with the method SStim points out, it was actually more than that, since I was going off wheel well gap. I raised the front just to level it out. My truck was optioned with HD rear springs and standard front springs though. Yours looks more level to begin with.

Surprising thing is now the front driveshaft is too short to connect! I guessed a 2.5 wouldn't have been a enough to bother the driveshaft but I was wrong.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

I just put a set of 2.5 skyjackers on the front of my K20 today....... Surprising thing is now the front driveshaft is too short to connect!

That's odd.... I put 2.5" Skyjacker Softrides on front of my K20 several years ago and had no issues at all. I don't remember -- is the axle centered on the springs or not? If not, did you put the springs on backwards? How much are you lacking on the driveshaft? Incidentally, I didn't disconnect my DS when I replaced the springs.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Stocker

That's odd.... I put 2.5" Skyjacker Softrides on front of my K20 several years ago and had no issues at all. I don't remember -- is the axle centered on the springs or not? If not, did you put the springs on backwards? How much are you lacking on the driveshaft? Incidentally, I didn't disconnect my DS when I replaced the springs.

Did you install your driveshaft with weight on the front axle? These are the HD skyjacker ones, which are just a little stiffer than the softrides. The springs are symmetric as best I can tell (using a tape measure) and so are the stock ones. I am 1" short on the lift (so axle is at its lowest position), so am at a loss. I did swap axles at the same time, but only switched from a 71 dana44HD to a 72 dana44HD. Both were original to my K20's and appear to have 12" from axle center to end of pinion yoke. I think I will disassemble the front slip portion of the driveshaft and see if something is hanging up in the telescopic portion...

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

No offense, but it looks like the front is higher then the back. This is what I want to avoid. Now I'm second guessing buying the CR12S rear springs. I wonder if I did buy that kit (C225AKS) and it didn't raise the back up enough, if I could install a small block under the springs? I'll have to investigate some more. Thanks for input.

Anyone else have any experience with this?

Looking at the pic, i think ether the camera is tilted or he's parking on a slope..

Very interesting thread.. For reference, my old Rancho 4" lift with rear 4" blocks put my truck higher in the back by about 2", my new 4" lift kit with full spring rear is actually very level, but this 4" kit is actually about 2" taller than the Rancho kit.. Go figure.. Lots of variation in these kits.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Did you install your driveshaft with weight on the front axle?

No, like I said, I never disco'd the front axle, therefore I never had to re-install it. I simply replaced the front springs and shocks, one side at a time.... jacked the front up just enough to take weight off the axle.

These are the HD skyjacker ones, which are just a little stiffer than the softrides.

You'd think they would have pretty much the same amount of lift. I have no idea what your problem is. Hope you find something when you check the slip joint.

This is a weird one. Keep us posted...

[derotoreut]

Got my kit and slowly working on it. I bought the 2-1/2" kit with springs all around. Once I get it done I'll post pictures. Taking my time, so it may be a while.

[Huggerorangeblood]

Time for an update please. Just about to order this kit to go on my SWB hugger orange build I am starting

[derotoreut]

Wow. So sorry about that. I never did update this thread. Well I did finish my installation and I'm really happy with it. Here's some pictures of the installation. I also added a zero rate spring to the rear end to level it out. You can read about it in the following post. Good luck with your installation.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=620627

[HUSTLESTUFF]

Can I ask what shocks you went with and how the ride is?

Thanks, Mike