A/C factory or Aftermarket

[F.A.A.benny]

Originally Posted by 1mitch4

What about running the original retrofitted to 134A? Is it possible and efficient enough?

The poa valve need to be recalibrated and a parallel flow condenser is highly recommended. They work much better with these two areas addressed

[davepl]

Originally Posted by 1mitch4

What about running the original retrofitted to 134A? Is it possible and efficient enough?

With a cross-flow condenser, yes (same as what others call parallel). I found it blows colder with the R-134A retrofit (POA valve, etc) and new condenser than it did with R12 and the old condenser.

With the parallel condenser I almost think the AC is "too good", challenging the cooling system on a hot day.

[F.A.A.benny]

Originally Posted by scotts72

Thanks gentlemen, I got a list together last night of what I need from LMC and now will try to find a good A/C person here in Dallas that does not want my first born. I have found here in the area that repair costs have just gone through the roof on anything older considered a classic.

Since you are local to them, have you looked at old air products in ft worth? They have all the same ac parts that lmc does and might be cheaper

[F.A.A.benny]

Also Scotts72, check out this video. It gives a good reason to open up the housing and remove the evaporator as part of getting an unkown system up and running. It's what I find in many of the ac units I restore.

https://youtu.be/CQdXlwr5lwg

[brown7373]

Yes, I have a factory system that some parts were rebuilt, recalibrated or refurbished by Classic Auto Air in Tampa, FL. Is there a crossflow or parallel flow condenser available for 67-72 Chevy pickups? I was not aware anyone was making one. I have one in my 72 Cutlass and my 70 Bonneville and they work GREAT! Vent air never exceeds the 30s. The two cars use the same condenser...only the mounting is different, but they are too big for the truck because of the hood latch.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by F.A.A.benny

Also Scotts72, check out this video. It gives a good reason to open up the housing and remove the evaporator as part of getting an unkown system up and running. It's what I find in many of the ac units I restore.

https://youtu.be/CQdXlwr5lwg

Just did mine today . It wasn't bad as the video, but there was a bunch of crap on the backside after pulling the evaporator and was definitely worth doing. Next is flushing the core and checking for leaks.

[F.A.A.benny]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Just did mine today . It wasn't bad as the video, but there was a bunch of crap on the backside after pulling the evaporator and was definitely worth doing. Next is flushing the core and checking for leaks.

yep flushing and pressure testing the evap is a also a must in my opinion as they can look damn near brand new on the outside. Ive pressure tested who knows how many and some that looked great externally would leak.

[Andy4639]

The Classic air I put in my dad's 56 had to have both a manual valve and the vacuum valve installed before it would cool down. It blows 38* now with no problems.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

What I hear from a good source, if you're looking to sell a real nice truck, aftermarket may be the way to go. Younger truck fans prefer an "updated" version, probably with lots of chrome & such.

Depends on the buyer and truck. Personally I prefer original-ish. I plan on a R134 conversion & rebuilt compressor.

[spoon3210]

I want to buy a condenser for a 72 c10 how in the world do i post on the parts page?

[clay68c10]

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[BCOWANWHEELS]

I,d run the stock setup and charge it with propane. Works far better than r12 and costs about 1 dollar................ Lots of u tube how toos there also.

[leddzepp]

Nothing works better than r12 in a factory system...since that is what it’s designed for. You can’t get any better than 36 degrees Monkey around with it just to save a buck and you are just chasing your tail. Everybody talks about “do it once, do it right” with most everything else automobile related, but that seems to go out the window when it comes to AC.

[volksworld]

93 chevy motorhome....last of the r12 systems...compressor went bad( sanden like the aftermarket kits use)...couldnt find a new one that came with the proper oil for r12 and didnt want to disassemble a new one to properly clean it...so new compressor, new barrier hoses, new reciever drier and new expansion valve...removed and flushed everything else, evacuated with 6cfm pump...and used 134....system is no way as cold as it originally was...sure it drops 20 degrees from ambient temp and is technically functioning properly but the volume of air inside the camper is so large that it never recirculates progressively colder air so the best it puts out is about 60 degrees...shouldnt be an issue in a pickup with a tiny cab...i cant even go for a parallel condensor cause the bottom half of mine is also the engine oil cooler...so i regret the conversion and was warned it wouldnt be as efficient by a friend who does auto a/c but saw many people on line swear that their conversions would freeze you out so i figured id try...and i still have plenty of r12 and a source to buy it

[modela1929]

Hi
I like the original look if possible I am from alberta Canada There were very few trucks up here with a/c any time I see one with factory a/c I think it looks so good and it adds value to the truck I have just bought a 1972 highlander with factory a/c but the compressor was removed. I went to reinstall it and I am missing a few brkts. Does any one have a/c brkts for sale or tell me where to get them

[BCOWANWHEELS]

its clear you haven't tried propane