FNG; Rework or Press On? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Nomadicflyer · 11-19-2016, 12:16 PM

Greetings, all~

Quick question to those who have been there/done that:

Imagine if you will, a 1972 C20 Dash. It's been blasted to bare metal, epoxy primed and cured x2weeks, wet sanded to 600, grease/wax remover x2, tack cloth, shot with black base x3 coats and the result is pictured. The black revealed all kinds of sanding scratch marks. If you look, even a few tiny pops/fisheyes. Not worried about those, so much. You really have to get up on those to see them.

Do I press on with the clear, because it will cover the scratch marks? Do I stop and rework with 800/1000 wetsand? Looking for some advice. I feel like I must have been as blind as a bat, missing those at the primer stage.....

Thanks in advance

UPDATE: I've had local guidance that I didn't spend long enough on the 600 grit sanding. Does it look like I may have 220/400 grit scratches, there? Or should I be looking at something else?

CG · 11-19-2016, 12:27 PM

If it were mine Id do it until it was right, especially since you still have the windshield out and its easy to get to. I know it would bug me staring at that every time I drove the truck.

68is4me · 11-19-2016, 12:33 PM

When clear coated the scratch's will still be there. It all depends on how nice you really want it to look. If going after perfection I would stop, spray with 2k primer resand working your back up to way up to 600 grit.

davepl · 11-19-2016, 01:19 PM

Can't tell you what grit those scratches are, but will cast another vote for "shoot some more 2K primer and sand it out nicely".

coreyjhen · 11-19-2016, 01:40 PM

I'd redo it. If you're anything like me, that will bug you for as long as you have the truck.

54blackhornet · 11-19-2016, 01:44 PM

I don't believe you should clearcoat the top of dash, should be a matt or satin non reflecting finish. jmo

FRCvette · 11-19-2016, 01:51 PM

Sand some more. That would drive me nuts looking at that everytime I drove my truck. Good luck.

Jim70Chevy · 11-19-2016, 03:14 PM

If you don't fix it now it will always be that thing you regret. If you do fix it now you will always feel proud that you did. At least that would be me.

**special-K** · 11-19-2016, 03:26 PM

You didn't use a sanding primer. The epoxy primer did nothing for you. I'd scuff it up, spray high build primer on, sand, and see how it looks. Probably could do that twice

**HO455** · 11-19-2016, 06:09 PM

It looks to me that those scratches are from a much larger grit than 400. You will have to back track to 100/120 then step it up to 220 to get rid of those. Then you can reseal with a primer and paint. No need to go to 400 before you have primed. If you are looking for real smooth look then sand with the 400 then 800 after paint and before clear coatIng then you can buff the clear coat. You can use sanding/high build primer to fill those, I wouldn't be concerned about using it on interior parts. Exterior parts I'm not a fan of using it. The primer is full of filler material like talc which absorbs water if exposed.
Just my opinions your results may vary.

*randy500* · 11-19-2016, 08:11 PM

That should sand out with 600 wet, I would use a sheet of paper previously used if in good shape. Then just spray the base right over it again.

Prior to paint you can wet the surface down with your wax and grease remover, if you have good light you should be able to see what your surface will look like while its wet. What you see with the surface wetted down is what your base will look like. Correct all imperfections in the base before clear as the clear will magnify any imperfections.

I have painted at least 50 cars in paint booths and at my home shop...so there is my advice.

Nomadicflyer · 11-20-2016, 01:32 PM

Wow, that's some great guidance! Thanks, guys!

I've got some 2k left. I'll scuff the dash up, put on some 2k and re work it. There's no reason to cut corners, at this point. I wasn't sure if the clear would help hide the scratches, now I understand it won't.

I have some satin additive for the clear coat, so I don't blind myself with sun glare. Hopefully, that works like the paint supplier said it would. It wasn't matte finish, but satin. Has anyone used that with success?

I have heard from someone who used undercoating, thinned out with urethane paint. Turned out with a nice, matte, soft texture. I'll have time to think that over, while sanding 2k primer.

Thanks for all help! It keeps me honest, and motivated!

You guys rock!

11-19-2016, 12:16 PM	#1
Nomadicflyer Registered User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Pierre, South Dakota Posts: 173	FNG; Rework or Press On? Greetings, all~ Quick question to those who have been there/done that: Imagine if you will, a 1972 C20 Dash. It's been blasted to bare metal, epoxy primed and cured x2weeks, wet sanded to 600, grease/wax remover x2, tack cloth, shot with black base x3 coats and the result is pictured. The black revealed all kinds of sanding scratch marks. If you look, even a few tiny pops/fisheyes. Not worried about those, so much. You really have to get up on those to see them. Do I press on with the clear, because it will cover the scratch marks? Do I stop and rework with 800/1000 wetsand? Looking for some advice. I feel like I must have been as blind as a bat, missing those at the primer stage..... Thanks in advance UPDATE: I've had local guidance that I didn't spend long enough on the 600 grit sanding. Does it look like I may have 220/400 grit scratches, there? Or should I be looking at something else? Attached Images

11-19-2016, 12:27 PM	#2
CG BlahBlahBlah Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Wa. Posts: 19,786	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? If it were mine Id do it until it was right, especially since you still have the windshield out and its easy to get to. I know it would bug me staring at that every time I drove the truck.

11-19-2016, 12:33 PM	#3
68is4me Registered User Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: lakefield,mn Posts: 566	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? When clear coated the scratch's will still be there. It all depends on how nice you really want it to look. If going after perfection I would stop, spray with 2k primer resand working your back up to way up to 600 grit. __________________ 68 c10 swb stepper 68 c10 swb stepper 67 c10 lwb 06 gmc duramax

11-19-2016, 01:19 PM	#4
davepl Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 6,332	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? Can't tell you what grit those scratches are, but will cast another vote for "shoot some more 2K primer and sand it out nicely". __________________ 1970 GMC Sierra Grande Custom Camper - Built, not Bought 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Coupe 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Convertible

11-19-2016, 01:40 PM	#5
coreyjhen Registered User Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 110	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? I'd redo it. If you're anything like me, that will bug you for as long as you have the truck.

11-19-2016, 01:44 PM	#6
54blackhornet Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Eastern Oregon Posts: 2,262	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? I don't believe you should clearcoat the top of dash, should be a matt or satin non reflecting finish. jmo __________________ 71 C-20 07 Magnum RT AWD

11-19-2016, 01:51 PM	#7
FRCvette Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: cincy Posts: 694	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? Sand some more. That would drive me nuts looking at that everytime I drove my truck. Good luck. __________________ There's something women like about a pick-up man 1967 c10 swb Stepside 2004 SSR 2013 Silverado swb

11-19-2016, 03:14 PM	#8
Jim70Chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Rocklin CA Posts: 88	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? If you don't fix it now it will always be that thing you regret. If you do fix it now you will always feel proud that you did. At least that would be me. __________________ "Every professional was once an amateur who didn't give up" My build 1970 Longbed CST/10

11-19-2016, 03:26 PM	#9
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,863	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? You didn't use a sanding primer. The epoxy primer did nothing for you. I'd scuff it up, spray high build primer on, sand, and see how it looks. Probably could do that twice __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

11-19-2016, 06:09 PM	#10
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 10,823	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? It looks to me that those scratches are from a much larger grit than 400. You will have to back track to 100/120 then step it up to 220 to get rid of those. Then you can reseal with a primer and paint. No need to go to 400 before you have primed. If you are looking for real smooth look then sand with the 400 then 800 after paint and before clear coatIng then you can buff the clear coat. You can use sanding/high build primer to fill those, I wouldn't be concerned about using it on interior parts. Exterior parts I'm not a fan of using it. The primer is full of filler material like talc which absorbs water if exposed. Just my opinions your results may vary. __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird. 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

11-19-2016, 08:11 PM	#11
randy500 Account Suspended Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 6,873	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? That should sand out with 600 wet, I would use a sheet of paper previously used if in good shape. Then just spray the base right over it again. Prior to paint you can wet the surface down with your wax and grease remover, if you have good light you should be able to see what your surface will look like while its wet. What you see with the surface wetted down is what your base will look like. Correct all imperfections in the base before clear as the clear will magnify any imperfections. I have painted at least 50 cars in paint booths and at my home shop...so there is my advice.

11-20-2016, 01:32 PM	#12
Nomadicflyer Registered User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Pierre, South Dakota Posts: 173	Re: FNG; Rework or Press On? Wow, that's some great guidance! Thanks, guys! I've got some 2k left. I'll scuff the dash up, put on some 2k and re work it. There's no reason to cut corners, at this point. I wasn't sure if the clear would help hide the scratches, now I understand it won't. I have some satin additive for the clear coat, so I don't blind myself with sun glare. Hopefully, that works like the paint supplier said it would. It wasn't matte finish, but satin. Has anyone used that with success? I have heard from someone who used undercoating, thinned out with urethane paint. Turned out with a nice, matte, soft texture. I'll have time to think that over, while sanding 2k primer. Thanks for all help! It keeps me honest, and motivated! You guys rock!



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