Are long tube headers worth it?

[mike's1965]

I have a 1968 C10 396 310 gross HP engine I swapped in my 65C10, 15 years ago, it may be stock, or it might have a cam, has some lope.

About to add on BBC Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 multi port fuel injection on it.

It has exhaust manifolds and dual pipes I got with engine out of a 1974 C10, it works but looks like smog era stuff, there are pipe plugs blocking off the smog pump tubes in manifolds.

I just spent 2 grand on the Edelbrock injection, at this point I think swapping to a LS engine is off the table, I'm committed to Big block Chevy.

Was planning on buying Hooker coated long tube headers for big block 67-72 trucks, about 480, plus other exhaust stuff, probably new pipes, and new Hooker Aerochamber mufflers.

Thinking of using the high quality clamps to button everything up, the newer type that are like a roll of sheet metal, as I don't weld, and have read these work pretty good for building your own exhaust.

The exhaust I have works, but is kind of ugly, the 1974 C10 the pipes ran straight back, but using them on the 1965, there was room issues with the rear arms that work with the coil springs, so I pointed the pipes out to blow out in front of the rear tires.

The mufflers are what seems to be Dynomaxx super turbo mufflers, those are what were in the way of those spring arms, if I recall, this swap was over 15 years ago.

This 396 is not that powerful, but maybe headers will help.

Worse case I have to take it to exhaust shop and have a dual exhaust put on.

The Edelbrock kit also has a brand new distributor that I can play with timing with the tablet via Bluetooth from in the cab of truck, or walking around truck.

Also it self tunes, but you can tweak timing, fuel stuff, etc and make changes, and instantly go take a test run, over and over, without popping hood.

This is what made me ditch the idea of LS swap, but actually after purchasing I found out they make kits for LS as well.

My main goal is for the truck to just start up everytime, not stink of nasty rich gas, and run as good as possible for what it is.

If it gets better MPG that is a plus, but it's a big block with TH400 and 3.73 gears, so I'm being realistic.

What do you think of doing Hooker ceramic coated headers and new exhaust?

[mike's1965]

My truck has rust on rocker panels and areas of cab supports, one day it will be fixed, not sure if truck will ever get paint and body, I'm 42 and bought it right before turning 18.

My thought is exhaust shop will see the rust while it's up in the air, think "what a POS" and do sloppy work because they think it's a POS.

I mean it needs a lot to make it really nice, but I just want a driver that is reliable, drive to work, drive for fun, it's been parked since spring 2013, and time is passing by, what's the point of having a vehicle that just sits?

Maybe driving it and fixing things one thing at a time would be better.

Needs bed wood, new tires due to age, a new windshield, a rear bumper.

It's basically a classic beater, if that makes sense.

[PGSigns]

I have been driving classic beaters for decades. Welcome to the club. It is good to have nice drive train under what ever you put together so put you energy in that first. Brakes is the first thing I do. I think the headers are a good addition and when I did the 396 in a 64 years ago I used chevelle headers and they worked good.
Jimmy

[mike's1965]

I added front disc power brakes, all brakes around new/rebuilt, added power steering, and rebuilt front suspension and steering in 2011.

It's got 1974 C10 spindles and steering box, pump, the engine and transmission came from that 1974 parts truck, CPP parts, new 65 and new 74 inner and outer tie rod ends, I tried to do it all on a budget.

Eventually I want overdrive and A/C, or at least A/C since Phoenix you need A/C.

Have 2 other vehicles a PT Cruiser (don't be making fun! Lol) daily driver I got for free from GF as it was broken down and she got a new car, but needed lots of work, to drive to work, got all the problems fixed.

Then a C5 Corvette convertible with 6 speed, it's almost too many vehicles but each one is different and has it's own advantages.

I'll check out Chevelle headers, this truck had headers on the small block before and were the cheap kind, thinking ceramic coated from manufacturer is way to go for lasting longer, and cooler engine bay.

[verdell]

My brother owns a ‘65 step side with a 396 from a ‘68 Chevelle. Muthathumper cam, fuller roller set up and one of his only complaints is the extreme heat in the engine compartment. He now wishes he had gone with ceramic or thermal coated headers..

[Chevy Fleetside]

I'm thinking of ditching my BB and putting in the Corvette engine I have. Granted it is only from a 92, but I kind of like the tuned port look. The long tube headers I have in my truck bottom out a lot. The 3/4 headers will allow you to tuck your exhaust up more.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Car headers tuck up another 1 1/2 roughly, and usually fit fine with no issues.

[mike's1965]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

I'm thinking of ditching my BB and putting in the Corvette engine I have. Granted it is only from a 92, but I kind of like the tuned port look. The long tube headers I have in my truck bottom out a lot. The 3/4 headers will allow you to tuck your exhaust up more.

I used to have a 1981 Z28 that scraped the headers on speed bumps in parking lots, that were smashed about half closed.

This truck never scraped headers before on the small block, they were full long tubes, however I'm not 100% sure this will be the case on big block long tubes.

I remember my truck sits higher than yours, I guess I'll just have to see how they fit before driving it.

Well you already have the engine, hopefully the harness, ECM, not sure if you have to get the ECM reflashed to disable VATS vehicle anti theft system if those years had that.

Apparently you can really build up those 1990s LT1 engines, send the heads off to be CNC ported to AI Advanced Induction, with a cam and ported heads seems I read they can push out close to 500 HP.

[mike's1965]

http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCylinderHeads.php

Their prices went way up!

[The Rocknrod]

Hedman headers makes long tube 'look' headers that fit well and exit in the middle of the frame.

[Softpatch]

you looking for a little more power from you 396 BBC.?
Go Budget
Instead of buying a set of headers and stuff for $400+
or Buy a camshaft for $125
RV/ Street-Strip/ Hi-PO
Unlock the power save some Cash......My 2 cents
.
.
.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-size/6-5l-396
My choice 1301
.......Sp
.
.

[mike's1965]

Originally Posted by Softpatch

you looking for a little more power from you 396 BBC.?
Go Budget
Instead of buying a set of headers and stuff for $400+
or Buy a camshaft for $125
RV/ Street-Strip/ Hi-PO
Unlock the power save some Cash......My 2 cents
.
.
.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-size/6-5l-396
My choice 1301
.......Sp
.
.

It may already have a cam, but not sure.

Actually I found big block Chevy truck 1967 to I think 1987 headers non coated from jegs for only 155.00, they have reducers, gaskets and all bolts, what a bargain!

They have good reviews.

[mike's1965]

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/3005...hoCZ_0QAvD_BwE

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by mike's1965

I used to have a 1981 Z28 that scraped the headers on speed bumps in parking lots, that were smashed about half closed.

This truck never scraped headers before on the small block, they were full long tubes, however I'm not 100% sure this will be the case on big block long tubes.

I remember my truck sits higher than yours, I guess I'll just have to see how they fit before driving it.

Well you already have the engine, hopefully the harness, ECM, not sure if you have to get the ECM reflashed to disable VATS vehicle anti theft system if those years had that.

Apparently you can really build up those 1990s LT1 engines, send the heads off to be CNC ported to AI Advanced Induction, with a cam and ported heads seems I read they can push out close to 500 HP.

I have the harness but not the ECM. Had a line on one but it fell through. I was talking to a guy that revamps the harness for a plug and play and he said I could use a 96 LT1 harness and ECM from an impala. They are cheaper. Let me know if you run across an ECM for a 92 Corvette. Not easy to come by.

[mike's1965]

Found on Rockauto, remanufactured AC Delco, including core charge $310.29, looked up 1992 Corvette, electrical, ECM

There might be aftermarket stuff that can run it.

On the LS engines and Vortec truck (1999-up) Edelbrock has a controller kit for 700-900 bucks, ECM wiring harness, and it's self tuning, plus you can custom tune with your tablet.

This is if your engine has the fuel injection, throttle body, etc already.

I tried to see if they have one for LT1, but I don't see anything.

[Bushman66]

[QUOTE=mike's1965;8626123]
My thought is exhaust shop will see the rust while it's up in the air, think "what a POS" and do sloppy work because they think it's a POS.
[QUOTE]

Take it Wade's Mufflers up in Mesa, near Higley and Brown. He does excellent work for a great price, and he has an old 64 C10 parked out front that has his sign in the back.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by mike's1965

Found on Rockauto, remanufactured AC Delco, including core charge $310.29, looked up 1992 Corvette, electrical, ECM

There might be aftermarket stuff that can run it.

On the LS engines and Vortec truck (1999-up) Edelbrock has a controller kit for 700-900 bucks, ECM wiring harness, and it's self tuning, plus you can custom tune with your tablet.

This is if your engine has the fuel injection, throttle body, etc already.

I tried to see if they have one for LT1, but I don't see anything.

I looked on Rockauto and they didn't have any in stock and I asked to be notified when they were in. I guess that doesn't work. Did that also include the PROM card? hmmmmm

[mike's1965]

[quote=Bushman66;8626924][QUOTE=mike's1965;8626123]
My thought is exhaust shop will see the rust while it's up in the air, think "what a POS" and do sloppy work because they think it's a POS.

Take it Wade's Mufflers up in Mesa, near Higley and Brown. He does excellent work for a great price, and he has an old 64 C10 parked out front that has his sign in the back.

I'll check them out, thanks for the tip!

[mike's1965]

[quote=mike's1965;8626953][quote=Bushman66;8626924]

Originally Posted by mike's1965

My thought is exhaust shop will see the rust while it's up in the air, think "what a POS" and do sloppy work because they think it's a POS.


I'll check them out, thanks for the tip!

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

I looked on Rockauto and they didn't have any in stock and I asked to be notified when they were in. I guess that doesn't work. Did that also include the PROM card? hmmmmm

Typed that part # from RockAuto in Google search, found it for less.

Edit I just noticed the core charge

Not sure if it has PROM, maybe you can ask them, says it needs programming also, maybe they can suggest where to have that done.

https://sdparts.com/i-24092445-acdel...QaAoTWEALw_wcB

[mike's1965]

On that link, click on "part # info" and it shows cars that these ECM came from, some might be at junkyard for cheap. Buick, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Chevrolet.

I do notice it doesn't list 1992 Corvette, only 1991 Corvette?

[Chevy Fleetside]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet Here you go.

[mike's1965]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet Here you go.

I need to find out what return policy is if they don't fit, but they sound like a good deal.

[Pontiacgurudan]

If you decide to run the LT1, I'd pick up the GM performance carb manifold and run it with a 4-barrel and hei. That's what I did with mine in my 63. The Vette motor picks up about thirty pound feet with the carb manifold due to the dual plane runners and really runs good in the truck.

[scottofksu]

What I have learned about myself during my build that may or may not help you here:
1. Get it safe, then get it running - driving while restoring.
2. Try to work on it 30 minutes to and hour a day. You won’t hit every day, but you’ll get more done than expecting to find big chunks of time and expecting your 40 year old body to last for hours on end without repercussions - if your in anywhere near the shape I am at 40...

Regarding exhaust, yes, long tube headers especially if you see yourself running a BBC for the foreseeable future as they’ll swap over. Might think of adding some Lizard Skin ceramic to the firewall if you have the engine out. From what I’ve read, you want to get your mufflers As close to the headers as possible. I can find the name of the book and cite you a of number if your real interested.

Just my two cents!