My SBC 383 Build.

[tjsblazer]

Sooooo, after much back and forth about what Engine I was going to build for my K5 restoration I am doing, I decided to go with the common 383 stroker. I had debated about getting in to a 421 on a Dart shp block but I just don't need it for this vehicle. It is going to be a sunny weekend family cruiser. The 383 will save me a little bit of $ and be plenty of get up and go. Finding a late model OE roller block with 1pc rms local for a great price was final decision maker for me.

So here is my parts list so far:

1989 One pc rms, roller block. 4 bolt with mech fuel pump provisions.
Eagle forged Crank. Cut for internal / internal balance.
Scat forged procomp Rods. 5.7 inch.
Mahle forged Pistons. Reverse dome. -16cc.
AFR Eliminator street Heads. 195 runner. 65cc intake.
Comp Cams Ultra pro magnum roller Rockers. 1.5.
Trend Performance pushrods.
Edelbrock Performer rpm air gap Intake.
Quickfuel SS carb. 680cfm. Vacuum secondaries.
Cloyes Hex adjust Roller timing chain.
Ram Clutches billet steel Flywheel. Neutral balance.
Pro-Race steel Harmonic Balancer.
MSD pro billet Distributer.
All ARP hardware and Fel-Pro gaskets.

Cam. OE Hydraulic roller style. I know the ballpark lift and duration I am looking at but haven't picked exactly yet. I am looking at many including Comp, Lunati, Howards and Crower. I've also been looking through the Bullet lobe catalogue a bit ...

Some recent shopping. About 1/2 of the eye candy.

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[tjsblazer]

Block was hot tanked and checked for cracks. All good. When we took the factory rotating assembly out it looked great. Bearings all nice even wear patterns and no bad coloring anywhere. I spent a few hours on the block grinding some of the external parting lines out and wire wheeling in the tight spots. Sorry, forgot to take any pictures.

Mahle specs show to run these pistons clearances fairly tight. I am very impressed with the power pak forgings. For this part number they recommend .0025 - .0033. I'm shooting for a final hone right in the middle at .0029 clearance. Nice ... No cold start up slap.

Just did a quick mock up to see where the deck is sitting. 4 corner check and it is within .002 thousand so pretty good starting condition. With the new rotating assembly the Pistons are sitting around .028 - .029 in the hole. I'm going to take .025 off to get the pistons sitting around .004 in the hole. Using a 1010 gasket will give me a final quench of .043 thousand. Right in the pocket for a street build.

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[tjsblazer]

Need a little clearancing on the bottom end for the Crank counterweights and 2 bores need a little clearancing on the bottom for the rods but that is it. These newer style blocks have the bottom of the cylinder bores brow cut up a little higher compared to old school first gen. and with the stroker rods, less massaging is required when going to a stroker build.

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[tjsblazer]

Block just went to the machine shop for Final hone and Decking. Pick it up in 2 weeks.
More to follow then ...

[DBD]

Boy, that's a great setup with all the right parts and machine work!

[geezer#99]

Finally!!
A well thought out engine assembly!!
Go conservative on the cam and it'll be perfect.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Finally!!
A well thought out engine assembly!!
Go conservative on the cam and it'll be perfect.

I appreciate that. I have certainly had some help along the way. Yes Cam selection will be key. I'm will be running a 5spd manual (NV4500) so I have a little bit of room for duration but need to keep it suitable for upwards of 4500lbs of truck.

[geezer#99]

I say conservative but my rule of thumb has been to pick the cam I think I'd like or has been recommended and then go one or two steps milder.
Cam choice is one place where "More's Law" doesn't work.
More's Law means 'If some is good, more is better'!!
When it comes to cam choice, usually less is better.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by DBD

Boy, that's a great setup with all the right parts and machine work!

I'm happy with the direction for sure. Hoping it will pull strong.

[89DEKE]

Hey bro I was wondering if you had any idea what the hp/tq numbers may be, the reason I'm asking is I have a '89 silverado with the stock tranny and was told that it wont hold the 383 I'm planning on buying at the beginning of next year. The #'s for the 383 I want are 440hp 460tq and if I could use a nv4500 that would be great. Tremec is more $ then i wanted to spend. Any help would be appreciated.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 89DEKE

Hey bro I was wondering if you had any idea what the hp/tq numbers may be, the reason I'm asking is I have a '89 silverado with the stock tranny and was told that it wont hold the 383 I'm planning on buying at the beginning of next year. The #'s for the 383 I want are 440hp 460tq and if I could use a nv4500 that would be great. Tremec is more $ then i wanted to spend. Any help would be appreciated.

Well Cam selection which I haven't 100% decided will determine a lot. I will probably Cam to prioritize torque and shoot for it to peak no higher than 4000rpm. With that said I am hoping for 470 ft lb range. I'm not too concerned about the HP numbers but I am assuming they would come out around the 430 range. We have to do some actual accurate cc calculations on the next mock up after the block is all machined to get the accurate compression ratio but it should be in the 9.8 neighborhood. Many dyno proven builds you can Google and numbers in the 450+ ranges are not too hard to achieve. I have no idea about your tranny strength. I will be running a fresh NV4500. I am pretty sure in my case the tires x pavement will be breaking before anything else.

[89DEKE]

Thanks for the reply bro will definitely be following your build

[D.PASSMORE]

What did the engine come out of? Or how about a block number?

**1989 One pc rms, roller block. 4 bolt with mech fuel pump provisions

Interesting build, I will follow...

Thanks

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by D.PASSMORE

What did the engine come out of? Or how about a block number?

**1989 One pc rms, roller block. 4 bolt with mech fuel pump provisions

Interesting build, I will follow...

Thanks

Came out of a 89 truck. That is why it is a 4 bolt and has the mechanical pump provision. It was actually a tappet cam in a truck but the blocks are still drilled properly to fit a factory roller cam. GM drilled them all at machining time because they didn't know the final vehicle destination at that point in the process. I can get a block number if you want but it is just at the machine shop right now for another week or so.

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Came out of a 89 truck. That is why it is a 4 bolt and has the mechanical pump provision. It was actually a tappet cam in a truck but the blocks are still drilled properly to fit a factory roller cam. GM drilled them all at machining time because they didn't know the final vehicle destination at that point in the process. I can get a block number if you want but it is just at the machine shop right now for another week or so.

I started my 385 with the same basic block as yours. Mine came from a 93 3/4 ton van and was a TBI engine

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Finally!!
A well thought out engine assembly!!
Go conservative on the cam and it'll be perfect.

I was thinking the exact same thing.

Looking forward to seeing this to completion.

Gary

[D.PASSMORE]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Came out of a 89 truck. That is why it is a 4 bolt and has the mechanical pump provision. It was actually a tappet cam in a truck but the blocks are still drilled properly to fit a factory roller cam. GM drilled them all at machining time because they didn't know the final vehicle destination at that point in the process. I can get a block number if you want but it is just at the machine shop right now for another week or so.

If you can, I've been playing with the notion of running a roller cam in my Blazer - OE GEN1 motor, not to sold on the retro kits. I will look around in the junk yards / craigslist for a good donor. Your expectations and setup for your build is what I'm looking for too. I've squeezed about everything I can out my OE 350 without major overhauls. This route sounds like a lot more fun. Thanks

[duallyjams]

Great thread

[tjsblazer]

Picked up the Block today from the machine shop all honed and decked. Ready to rock. Did a mock up again of the rotating assembly. This time all 8 slugs. They are all bang on .004 in the hole. With the Fel-pro 1010 it will put the quench at .043 so very respectable for the street and no worries on Cam timing.
Final hone just what we wanted at .0029 over piston size. Hopefully get the heads cc'd this weekend. I mostly read the AFR heads are pretty much bang on advertised but gotta check to know for sure. You can always get a lemon.

Couple pictures to keep it interesting.

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[truckdude239]

pretttyyyyyyyh

[tjsblazer]

Did an old school water cc check on the Head chambers and Pistons in the bore. Wanted to see how close the numbers are to published.
In the end the 65cc AFR heads came in at 64.6cc.
The piston in the bore is a little subjective trying to capture cc including down to the compression ring. The 16 cc Mahle piston came in at 17.5cc set .004 in the bore. It think the piston machining is bang on the 16cc.

Ran a bunch of different calculators but I'm settling in at 9.69 compression. Pretty darn close to the 9.73 projected on paper. Really just a gut check to make sure nothing was way off of published specs.

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[tjsblazer]

Next steps are to get the Rotating Assembly balanced, Check the Intake to the Heads for alignment now that the Deck is machined and get a Cam and Lifters ordered ...

[jjzepplin]

I'm IN!

[Average Joe]

Nice build

[tjsblazer]

Some progress. Did a mock up to set main and rod clearances. Took a couple of different bearing sets to get what we wanted. This is what we ended up with on a 82 F day.

Runout measured .008
Crank endplay is .005
Main clearance is set up between .0017-.0019
Rear main set at .0025
Rods came in at .0022

Based on these I'm going to run Std volume / Std pressure oil pump. Going to use the Melling Select series.


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