what whold you build? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 08:30 PM

i recently got this free LT-1 from a friend the with the help of bigjimz we figured out its from a 70 corvete/ camero.its got double hump heads with the #'s 3991492 with 64cc chambers and 202in 160ex valves. four bolt block factory windage tray and forged crank. i have an extra set if "pink" rods for it and it came with TRW 1/8'' dome pistons. i still dont know id is bored orver or not but the cyl walls seem in good shape. so my question is what machining should i have done to it and also what type of power plant whoud you make? 355 or 383 ect.... the guy who gave the moter to me also knows the machine shop so i get a discount there too. i appreciate ant responces -kyle

special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 08:30 PM

pic 2

special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 08:31 PM

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special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 08:32 PM

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special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 08:34 PM

pic 5

special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 08:34 PM

pic 6

special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 08:35 PM

pic 7 only one more

special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 08:36 PM

finally pic 8

Roberty · 04-28-2003, 08:41 PM

The 383's are better for power but are quite a bit more expensive to build. The extra machine shop work adds up $$. If you can get the machine shop work done cheap than that's a plus. You still are going to need a new crank, harmonic balancer and flywheel from a 400. If money is a factor than stick with a 350/355. Those LT1's sure are sweet little engines even in stock form.
If you decide to build a 383 I'd be interested in your old crank and such. :p
Robert

crazy longhorn · 04-28-2003, 08:53 PM

If you have the steel crank for the LT1, I think i would build a 355. You may want to go to a flattop piston to knock the comp down a just a little. The 492's are an excellent casting.....i ran a set on a flattop 327, with a mild cam& it ran great. Good luck,crazyL

bpmcgee · 04-28-2003, 08:54 PM

He hardly needs more than a 350 to get that dirt bike screaming! He'll never get all the horsepower to the ground anyway, unless he takes that tiny little nobby tire off and replaces it with a big slick.

What sort of gearing does that thing have?

:p

Keep it a 350. You can build more horsepower than a sane person needs just like that!

Brian

crazy longhorn · 04-28-2003, 09:06 PM

LOL!!! dirt bike?

that sounds like fun....crazyL

special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 09:42 PM

o you mean my other toy

special70gmc · 04-28-2003, 09:47 PM

o yeah what should i do to the heads new guides?ect.... also should i get it bored or just align honed?

knucklebuster · 04-28-2003, 09:48 PM

Don't do anything to it.stop what your doing immediatly.Engine is contaminated.Send directly to me a.s.a.p......Wish I could find deals like that.LOL.

special70gmc · 04-29-2003, 11:15 AM

anybody else? ttt

Stroker · 04-29-2003, 11:35 PM

The first thing you need to do is get the heads, crank, and rods magged. It's not uncommon for the small chamber 2.02 heads or steel cranks to crack. Have the machine shop check out your block to see if an overbore is required. The bores can look fine but still be tapered enough to need a over bore. Really the most important step is finding a good machine shop that you can trust. They will be able to tell you what machining you need after they inspect the used parts. As far as the 350 vs 383 goes it all depends on how your want to use the truck, how much power you want and of course how thick you wallet is. For a NA street engine built on a reasonable budget figure about 1.1 HP per cid. So for a 350 360-380HP at about 5,700 rpm is about the realist limit while still providing good drivabiliy. Add a 100hp shot and you have very stout small block. Of course if you add the inches you can get even more. Good luck let us know what you decide.....Stroker

beau396 · 04-30-2003, 12:08 AM

I agree with stroker. What you need to have done to the engine is going to depend on what the machine shop finds when it is magged and measured. A 383 will get you a lot better torque band but they do not like to be wound out. A 355 is a lot cheaper and would be a much better match for your cylinder heads. If it is for the street and daily driver I personally would build a 355. Align honeing is used to correct core shift on the motor for the crank bores and is usually not necessary. Honing the cylinder walls is always necessary to seat the rings.

04-28-2003, 08:30 PM	#1
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	what would you build? i recently got this free LT-1 from a friend the with the help of bigjimz we figured out its from a 70 corvete/ camero.its got double hump heads with the #'s 3991492 with 64cc chambers and 202in 160ex valves. four bolt block factory windage tray and forged crank. i have an extra set if "pink" rods for it and it came with TRW 1/8'' dome pistons. i still dont know id is bored orver or not but the cyl walls seem in good shape. so my question is what machining should i have done to it and also what type of power plant whoud you make? 355 or 383 ect.... the guy who gave the moter to me also knows the machine shop so i get a discount there too. i appreciate ant responces -kyle Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door Last edited by special70gmc; 04-28-2003 at 08:41 PM.

04-28-2003, 08:30 PM	#2
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	pic 2 Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 08:31 PM	#3
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	pic 3 Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 08:32 PM	#4
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	pic 4 Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 08:34 PM	#5
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	pic 5 Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 08:34 PM	#6
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	pic 6 Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 08:35 PM	#7
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	pic 7 only one more Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 08:36 PM	#8
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	finally pic 8 Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 08:41 PM	#9
Roberty Hot Damn - Here I Am!! Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Ringgold, Georgia Posts: 726	The 383's are better for power but are quite a bit more expensive to build. The extra machine shop work adds up $$. If you can get the machine shop work done cheap than that's a plus. You still are going to need a new crank, harmonic balancer and flywheel from a 400. If money is a factor than stick with a 350/355. Those LT1's sure are sweet little engines even in stock form. If you decide to build a 383 I'd be interested in your old crank and such. :p Robert __________________ My vehicles: '90 Silverado Sport '71 Chevelle SS Convertible '70 C-10 - My Grandfather bought it new - original un-restored Last edited by Roberty; 04-28-2003 at 08:44 PM.

04-28-2003, 08:53 PM	#10
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	If you have the steel crank for the LT1, I think i would build a 355. You may want to go to a flattop piston to knock the comp down a just a little. The 492's are an excellent casting.....i ran a set on a flattop 327, with a mild cam& it ran great. Good luck,crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

04-28-2003, 08:54 PM	#11
bpmcgee Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 2,181	He hardly needs more than a 350 to get that dirt bike screaming! He'll never get all the horsepower to the ground anyway, unless he takes that tiny little nobby tire off and replaces it with a big slick. What sort of gearing does that thing have? :p Keep it a 350. You can build more horsepower than a sane person needs just like that! Brian

04-28-2003, 09:06 PM	#12
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	LOL!!! dirt bike? that sounds like fun....crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

04-28-2003, 09:42 PM	#13
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	o you mean my other toy Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 09:47 PM	#14
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	o yeah what should i do to the heads new guides?ect.... also should i get it bored or just align honed? __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-28-2003, 09:48 PM	#15
knucklebuster Failure is NOT an option! Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: greenwood s.c. Posts: 811	Don't do anything to it.stop what your doing immediatly.Engine is contaminated.Send directly to me a.s.a.p......Wish I could find deals like that.LOL. __________________ House payment or truck parts?????.........why does life have to be so complicated? 1969 Chevy Shortbed Fleetside 1969 Camaro ps pb a/c(drove in high school now it's just a yard ornament,but it's next on the list for resto) 1990 Ni$$an hardbody( daily beater that has been really beaten!) 1999 Grand Am GT(wifes ride...never buy a pontiac!!Trust Me)



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04-29-2003, 11:15 AM	#16
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	anybody else? ttt __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

04-29-2003, 11:35 PM	#17
Stroker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Moore, Ok Posts: 1,149	The first thing you need to do is get the heads, crank, and rods magged. It's not uncommon for the small chamber 2.02 heads or steel cranks to crack. Have the machine shop check out your block to see if an overbore is required. The bores can look fine but still be tapered enough to need a over bore. Really the most important step is finding a good machine shop that you can trust. They will be able to tell you what machining you need after they inspect the used parts. As far as the 350 vs 383 goes it all depends on how your want to use the truck, how much power you want and of course how thick you wallet is. For a NA street engine built on a reasonable budget figure about 1.1 HP per cid. So for a 350 360-380HP at about 5,700 rpm is about the realist limit while still providing good drivabiliy. Add a 100hp shot and you have very stout small block. Of course if you add the inches you can get even more. Good luck let us know what you decide.....Stroker __________________ 72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma Last edited by Stroker; 04-29-2003 at 11:37 PM.

04-30-2003, 12:08 AM	#18
beau396 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: oak harbor wa Posts: 61	I agree with stroker. What you need to have done to the engine is going to depend on what the machine shop finds when it is magged and measured. A 383 will get you a lot better torque band but they do not like to be wound out. A 355 is a lot cheaper and would be a much better match for your cylinder heads. If it is for the street and daily driver I personally would build a 355. Align honeing is used to correct core shift on the motor for the crank bores and is usually not necessary. Honing the cylinder walls is always necessary to seat the rings. __________________ '67 C10 short box fleet side wood bed small rear window frame off restoration. 396BB,Th400, ps, pwr disc 5 lug, posi 3.07, 2000 Suburban 60/40 pwr seats, 2.5" front drop 4" rear, powder coated running gear.

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