what a pain in the butt, gas lines and aux tank - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

mtdave2 · 01-22-2005, 01:46 PM

I had a gas leak coming from my tank selector the old long horn has the original (from what I can tell) flue lines going to the aux gas tank. All other flue lines have been replaced.

They are still in fair shape so I just clipped the split end and tightened it on the tank selector. That was easy I thought, making a mental not to replace those lines when I replace the wood floor.

I started the truck and flipped the switch for the aux tank, then I did the on hand on the wheel lean out the door and look under trick... no leak! Great! Then I smelled gas.....great.

I had gas running down the side of the aux tank. The other end of the gas line must have spit at the tank end. so, after a curse or two, I tried to get to the connector....no freakin way. It looks like there is only 2 ways to get to them. Take the bed loose, or off ... or take the wood floor out. What a pain.

I started taking the bed bolts off on the one side in hopes that I could raise the one side 4 inch or so. But now the bed blots are fighting. so. Screw it ill try again tomorrow. I have learned not to force things when IM pissed..lol.

franko72 · 01-22-2005, 02:35 PM

cant you drop the aux. tank and do repairs. I also have the same setup and wonder what to do if I have the same problem.

da-burb · 01-22-2005, 05:26 PM

I had a similar thing happen on the motorhome this fall. The rubber line rotted off at the fitting on top of the tank. Had to drop it to get at it. Not the smartest design. When I put it back I ran a hard line from the tank to inside the frame rail. Now the rubber line is accessable without dropping the tank. That is the way it should have been done in the first place.

mtdave2 · 01-22-2005, 05:51 PM

smart idea! i think ill do the same.

why not drop the tank? great question, but i have to ask the board has anyone been able to do this? the bolts are one step past rusted, its like they are welded! hahah!

on my 71 i cut the supports with a hack saw and then put threads on them. using a coupler i was able to make it work again. too much of a pain, and i dont think id want to do that again.

i have always heard of things like having to take off the front fender to change spark plugs and things like that. i had never seen it first hand. now i can say i have found a design that you have to take the bed off to change a fule line .lol

franko72 · 01-22-2005, 06:20 PM

Are they long carriage style bolts that bite into the bed and bolt thru the saddle tank?
I want to remove mine in the future to recondition the tank and install new fuel line.That would be my worry that they would just keep turning or strip.

mtdave2 · 01-23-2005, 01:54 PM

ya that's right franko, but the problem is that they are rusted to the tank. they dont turn at all! thats why im just going to take the bed off, less work hahaha.

**stllookn** · 01-23-2005, 03:32 PM

I had twin factory tanks in my '67 with the long carriage bolts through the tank. I had to use a torch to burn the heads off of the bolts to drop the tanks. It took a sledge to get the bolts out of the tank. You might consider using grinder on the head of the bolt to protect the wood in your bed. Good Luck! I still have those tanks if anyone wants them...FREE!

badpeanut · 01-23-2005, 04:51 PM

I have a '72 (non-vented gas cap, charcoal cansiter) that I want to put a saddle tank on. The saddle tank has a vented cap and no extra fittings to use for a charcoal canister. Any advice on how to install this tank? How do I figure out which line to tap into on my behind the seat tank?

chickenwing · 01-24-2005, 12:42 AM

I had to grind the heads. Couldn't find a replacement for either the bolts or the funky "nuts". Had to go to a specialty fastener place to find carriage bolts long enough to work. Just used washers and regular nuts to replace. To take up the space in the holes through the tank I took a piece of 3/4" pvc cut it length-wise and then heated it up to slide in the holes. Every saddle tank equipped truck I find in the wrecking yard I try to get the factory bolts and nuts. To date I have only got one.

sactoC10 · 01-24-2005, 02:01 PM

Getting rid of my AUX tanks was one of the best things I ever did. It was a serious hassle and turned out one of them was 2/3 full with old putrid gas. Good things I never flipped the switch to one of them! Ended up selling the bolts to a fellow board member...hang in there.

01-22-2005, 01:46 PM	#1
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,507	what a pain in the butt, gas lines and aux tank I had a gas leak coming from my tank selector the old long horn has the original (from what I can tell) flue lines going to the aux gas tank. All other flue lines have been replaced. They are still in fair shape so I just clipped the split end and tightened it on the tank selector. That was easy I thought, making a mental not to replace those lines when I replace the wood floor. I started the truck and flipped the switch for the aux tank, then I did the on hand on the wheel lean out the door and look under trick... no leak! Great! Then I smelled gas.....great. I had gas running down the side of the aux tank. The other end of the gas line must have spit at the tank end. so, after a curse or two, I tried to get to the connector....no freakin way. It looks like there is only 2 ways to get to them. Take the bed loose, or off ... or take the wood floor out. What a pain. I started taking the bed bolts off on the one side in hopes that I could raise the one side 4 inch or so. But now the bed blots are fighting. so. Screw it ill try again tomorrow. I have learned not to force things when IM pissed..lol. __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

01-22-2005, 02:35 PM	#2
franko72 Franko72 Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Posts: 471	cant you drop the aux. tank and do repairs. I also have the same setup and wonder what to do if I have the same problem. __________________ 1972 C20 cheyenne Super 402 BB/400 turbo LWB A/C Tilt, Cruise Control, Saddle tanks, Tach My Home Page Better to burn out than it is to rust

01-22-2005, 05:26 PM	#3
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	I had a similar thing happen on the motorhome this fall. The rubber line rotted off at the fitting on top of the tank. Had to drop it to get at it. Not the smartest design. When I put it back I ran a hard line from the tank to inside the frame rail. Now the rubber line is accessable without dropping the tank. That is the way it should have been done in the first place. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

01-22-2005, 05:51 PM	#4
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,507	smart idea! i think ill do the same. why not drop the tank? great question, but i have to ask the board has anyone been able to do this? the bolts are one step past rusted, its like they are welded! hahah! on my 71 i cut the supports with a hack saw and then put threads on them. using a coupler i was able to make it work again. too much of a pain, and i dont think id want to do that again. i have always heard of things like having to take off the front fender to change spark plugs and things like that. i had never seen it first hand. now i can say i have found a design that you have to take the bed off to change a fule line .lol __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

01-22-2005, 06:20 PM	#5
franko72 Franko72 Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Posts: 471	Are they long carriage style bolts that bite into the bed and bolt thru the saddle tank? I want to remove mine in the future to recondition the tank and install new fuel line.That would be my worry that they would just keep turning or strip. __________________ 1972 C20 cheyenne Super 402 BB/400 turbo LWB A/C Tilt, Cruise Control, Saddle tanks, Tach My Home Page Better to burn out than it is to rust

01-23-2005, 01:54 PM	#6
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,507	ya that's right franko, but the problem is that they are rusted to the tank. they dont turn at all! thats why im just going to take the bed off, less work hahaha. __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

01-23-2005, 03:32 PM	#7
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,463	I had twin factory tanks in my '67 with the long carriage bolts through the tank. I had to use a torch to burn the heads off of the bolts to drop the tanks. It took a sledge to get the bolts out of the tank. You might consider using grinder on the head of the bolt to protect the wood in your bed. Good Luck! I still have those tanks if anyone wants them...FREE! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

01-23-2005, 04:51 PM	#8
badpeanut Not a bad nut after all.. Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: ND Posts: 1,755	I have a '72 (non-vented gas cap, charcoal cansiter) that I want to put a saddle tank on. The saddle tank has a vented cap and no extra fittings to use for a charcoal canister. Any advice on how to install this tank? How do I figure out which line to tap into on my behind the seat tank?

01-24-2005, 12:42 AM	#9
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	I had to grind the heads. Couldn't find a replacement for either the bolts or the funky "nuts". Had to go to a specialty fastener place to find carriage bolts long enough to work. Just used washers and regular nuts to replace. To take up the space in the holes through the tank I took a piece of 3/4" pvc cut it length-wise and then heated it up to slide in the holes. Every saddle tank equipped truck I find in the wrecking yard I try to get the factory bolts and nuts. To date I have only got one. __________________ The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

01-24-2005, 02:01 PM	#10
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	Getting rid of my AUX tanks was one of the best things I ever did. It was a serious hassle and turned out one of them was 2/3 full with old putrid gas. Good things I never flipped the switch to one of them! Ended up selling the bolts to a fellow board member...hang in there. __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000



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