69 c20 camber issue

[Vortec69]

Hey all. I recently did a disk brake swap on a 69 c20. I used spindles from a 72 c20. I re used my control arms and replaced the ball joints with new 72 ones and replaced all the bushings and shafts also. I also replace the rest of the steering components with new 72 parts. My problem is now I have positive camber on both sides with all the shims and spacers removed. Are the lower control arms longer on 71-72 c20’s? I did have to put the new ball joints in the lathe and turn them down about.020 so they would go in my 69 lower arms so that makes me think the lower arms must be different. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[Vortec69]

Anyone have an idea? I can’t find anyone that knows for sure and can’t seem to find anything on the web. I guess I just need to get different lower arms.

[Steeveedee]

I also modified the later model ball joints in order to get them to fit in my old control arms. I have decent camber, though, according to the spec sheet I got from the shop. I don't remember what the numbers were, but I do recall that they were within tolerance. No idea where that spec sheet is.

Can you provide some pictures? Maybe something will jump out at someone here.

[Vortec69]

I’ll try to get some on here tomorrow if I can figure out how to. I’m new to the forum thing, lol. Thanks for your reply!

[Vortec69]

Here are some pics if they help.

[Vortec69]

Wow! I can’t believe no one on here dosen’t have some kind of answer for me!l always have the issues that no one can help with!! I thought there were some hard core gurus on here!!

[Boog]

Is that pic just after putting it on the floor? Has the truck been moved at all?

[Vortec69]

No. I’ve been driving it some for about a month since I did the swap. Every thing is great, except for the camber issue. I’m thinking I just need to get some 71-72 lower arms. Thanks for a reply by the way.

[Steeveedee]

It's hard to tell from the pics- are the upper ball joints forward of the lower ball joints?

[Boog]

I have no experience with 3/4 ton arms but you might want to lay a tape measure on yours and find a 1/2 ton arm to measure for length. I believe they are the same other than maybe the ball joint holes which would be in the same location. Same goes for the uppers.
Do you have pics from up top giving a good look at the upper arm cross shafts?
Excessive toe in will make them pull under like that. Been to an alignment shop yet?

[Vortec69]

Yes I took it to one right after I got it back together. Went to pick it up, they said she’s all good to go drives good. Went out back to get it and the top of both tires were out pat the fender. It looked hilarious! Went back in and had the guy come out and get said if this was your truck would that be acceptable to you???? He said yeah it’s a little off. Lol. He had the Hunter tech come the next day, and this is how it is. No shims in from 2 in back. The guy said she’s all in spec now. What f’n ever. $75 up in smoke. I always thought all the control arms on these trucks were the same, just ball joints bigger on disc brakes. I did the exact same swap on my 70 1/2 ton and had no issues at all. There’s something different on 3/4 tons I guess.

[Vortec69]

By the way, my son and I checked the toe when we got home and it was 3/8” toed in. I set it back to 1/16 toe in and it drove better. Other than that don’t know what to say.

[Vortec69]

Yes I took it to one right after I got it back together. Went to pick it up, they said she’s all good to go drives good. Went out back to get it and the top of both tires were out pat the fender. It looked hilarious! Went back in and had the guy come out and get said if this was your truck would that be acceptable to you???? He said yeah it’s a little off. Lol. He had the Hunter tech come the next day, and this is how it is. No shims in from 2 in back. The guy said she’s all in spec now. What f’n ever. $75 up in smoke. I always thought all the control arms on these trucks were the same, just ball joints bigger on disc brakes. I did the exact same swap on my 70 1/2 ton and had no issues at all. There’s something different on 3/4 tons I guess.

[MACO]

I just completed converting my 69 C20 to discs with the CPP kit. I replaced all the bushing, joints, shafts and even the springs. Control arms are stock. Spindles in the CPP kit were factory GM part. When I finished the camber was very positive. The alignment shop was able to get it all in spec and it drives good and looks correct. There is only one thin shim now on each upper control arm stud. There was 5 or 6 before so the adjustment was significant.

[Vortec69]

Mine also had a thick stack of shims on both studs when the drums where on it. A friend that races stock cars said that they grind the back side of the top shafts to get the negative camber they want and suggested that but I would rather do it right. I compared the upper shafts to the old and they are the same. I’m stumped. I guess I’ll go to to the bone yard some time and do some measuring and see if the lowers are little longer. Maco when you installed your lower ball joints, did you have a fit issue? The 71-72 Moog joints I bought were to big and had to put them in the lathe and shave the knurl off of them, about .020” to get them to press in and were still really tight!

[toolboxchev]

Odd to say the least. My C20 has the same lean, same color, same year of build.

I have replaced lower ball joints, upper and lower control arm shafts keeping it drums. Tires have not worn funny in over 70 k miles. Only difference in looks only is the amount those tires look with space wider at top.

what ya think of that spank?

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I also modified the later model ball joints in order to get them to fit in my old control arms. I have decent camber, though, according to the spec sheet I got from the shop. I don't remember what the numbers were, but I do recall that they were within tolerance. No idea where that spec sheet is.

Can you provide some pictures? Maybe something will jump out at someone here.

How did you modify the ball joints??? I find it extremely difficult to envision doing anything to to a lower ball joint. Had shop press them right in, and done.

[Vortec69]

Like I said before, I put them on a lathe and turned down the cup I guess you would call it , and cut the knurl off so it was the same size as the 69 joint. I didn’t modify the stud that goes in the spindle.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

How did you modify the ball joints??? I find it extremely difficult to envision doing anything to to a lower ball joint. Had shop press them right in, and done.

I have my own 60 ton press. When I set them up to press them in, I discovered there was no way it was going to happen. I mic'd them and found that they were too big- don't remember how much. The .020" that Vortec69 used seems about what I did, though I only addressed the knurled section. I then filed off enough of the knurl to allow them to be pressed in. They were still a press fit.

[Vortec69]

Exactly what I did. Still took 5 tons to press in. Toolbox replaced his with what it originally had in it, that’s why his went in easy.

[MACO]

Originally Posted by Vortec69

Mine also had a thick stack of shims on both studs when the drums where on it. A friend that races stock cars said that they grind the back side of the top shafts to get the negative camber they want and suggested that but I would rather do it right. I compared the upper shafts to the old and they are the same. I’m stumped. I guess I’ll go to to the bone yard some time and do some measuring and see if the lowers are little longer. Maco when you installed your lower ball joints, did you have a fit issue? The 71-72 Moog joints I bought were to big and had to put them in the lathe and shave the knurl off of them, about .020” to get them to press in and were still really tight!

I installed my lower ball joints with a shop press no problem. They were part of the CPP kit so they may have been different but I think they were Moog.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Vortec69

Exactly what I did. Still took 5 tons to press in. Toolbox replaced his with what it originally had in it, that’s why his went in easy.

This would be true. I thought all the a arm were the same, guess not. Still interested in figuring out why the OP has the same lean in his rig as mine.

[Vortec69]

Sounds like I should have bought the kit you did. I looked at it, but thought I could save a buck using some boneyard stuff. Oh well. I’ll figure it out. Enough time and money can fix anything!

[MACO]

Originally Posted by Vortec69

Sounds like I should have bought the kit you did. I looked at it, but thought I could save a buck using some boneyard stuff. Oh well. I’ll figure it out. Enough time and money can fix anything!

Some of the CPP stuff is not that great but I am happy with the disc kit, most of the parts are GM or Moog. I just don't have time to hunt down the parts plus land is so expensive here most of the wrecking yards with older vehicles disappeared many years ago.

[beadblaster]

Can you get a set of offset upper a arm cross shafts. Not sure if anyone makes them for the c10 but you can get them for camaro,s ect.