Fix and Sale 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 K2500

[landarts]

The radiator that I ordered VISTA-PRO 433369 radiator for $111.79 from Rock Auto - here is the link.

Here is the three way brass valve to control the auxiliary and main tank.


Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97
-new 3-way valve for aux. tank with fittings $28
-pvc valve and oil fill cap $16
-radiator $129
-passenger fender $60

TOTAL $1817

[landarts]

Here are a few more pictures of the B-pillar repair and the cut out rust from floor and replacement. last picture is to show where I needed to slice the rocker in order to make it fit around B-pillar. Now I will tack it in two places and remount the door to test fit. If all is good then I will weld up the slices and then drill in my weld holes and wrap up the driver side rust repair.


Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97
-new 3-way valve for aux. tank with fittings $28
-pvc valve and oil fill cap $16
-radiator $129
-passenger fender $60

TOTAL $1817

[landarts]

Here is a picture of the drivers side inner rocker/outer floor installed and primed.
While that was drying I went over to the passenger side and started to remove the door and get ready to remove the rust areas.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on the rust repair!

[Greg58]

Looking good!

Greg

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice work on the rust repair!

Its been a process, I try to set a goal for the day in the garage on rust repair. One area at a time so I can celebrate little victories and not get overwhelmed.

Originally Posted by Greg58

Looking good!

Greg

Thanks!


Here is the passenger side inner rocker/outer floor all installed, also forward floor section and bottom of kick panel all welded in and primed. I use Rustoleum rusty metal primer in the quart can. I like using this the first round and apply with brush, then after dry knock it down to smooth it out, then follow with spray on type before paint.

Now I have both sides rust repair complete and also have made the necessary adjustments to the rocker panels so that they fit properly. Next to drill a few weld holes and attach the rockers, then seam seal in areas as they were from factory.

[CG]

You're not going to want to sell this haha! Cool project!

[1968 K10]

I just read thru, great project!!

[landarts]

Originally Posted by CG

You're not going to want to sell this haha! Cool project!

I know I was kinda thinking the same thing, but I will sell it I have 3 more projects waiting in line.

Here is the driver side door back on to test fit the rocker. After a few adjustments to the hinges got the clearance I needed. Finished tacking the rocker in and will now remove door and finish rocker for paint. Grind the welds, add filler where needed, seam seal, etc. Also found a piece of door trim that was missing on the drivers door.

Before calling it a day I decided to remove the front bumper and put it in line for a complete grind down prep and paint. Bumper is the original bumper that is in great shape, just has a boat load of chips. Actually more chips than paint, I will also remove the rear bumper and paint.

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking good. Thats nice that the bumper is so straight even with all the rock chips. It must have spent a lot of time on gravel behind another vehicle or tractor in it's life.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Looking good. Thats nice that the bumper is so straight even with all the rock chips. It must have spent a lot of time on gravel behind another vehicle or tractor in it's life.

Yes it is a very straight bumper, and I was kind of thinking the same thing. It has 4 small bolt holes drilled for tow bar mount that I will be welding shut and prep before I paint. Should look brand new after I squirt a little of the GM 521 white.

[landarts]

Here are a few shots from the passenger side rocker panel attachment. It went well with only one small adjustment to front of rocker to make it fit properly. No adjustments to the door hinges were needed.

[landarts]

Removed the passenger door for last time I hope now that rocker is tacked in. Need it off to finish the body work and paint on rocker and floor, also need it off to do the rust repair needed on bottom of door corners. Cut out the bad areas and made a template out of card stock, then transferred to new sheet metal. Treated the inside with rust reformer and primed with weld through primer, welded on the new parts and ground down with 80 grit disc. Applied first coat of filler.

[landarts]

Here are a few more shots of passenger side rocker 2nd round with filler over weld areas and the door flipped over to repair the front inner corner. Outer corner has already been cut out and replaced. Lots of surface rust on bottom of door but seems to be intact and not rusted through. Kinda visually inspected and did the pecking with an awl to see if there were some spots that need attention. I will probably go ahead and prep the bottom of the door and paint with other repairs since I am already painting in that area. Besides it will make for a better blend from new to old and help protect it going forward.

For the corner piece I usually would do this as one piece, but not this time since the other side of my shop is in disarray from moving my CNC machine over there along with a bunch of other shop items to make room for truck in garage. That side of the garage has a planishing hammer mounted to a table that at the moment I can not get access to. So I decided to build it in parts and grind the metal to get the rounded features. Last picture is the planishing hammer that is mounted on the table.

[landarts]

Here is the other side of the passenger door rust repair also with first round of filler. One more round here and i will add the seam sealer and prep for paint. Other side removed door for last time to make an adjustment to front of rocker and finish tacking in with welds. This is right after I finished grinding down welds and getting ready to add filler where needed. Last picture is with the cowl removed and all the debris vacuumed out, looks really good in there no sign of rust. I also remove it to try and straight out the antenna hole a little better with a hammer and dolly before i put it back on.

Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97
-new 3-way valve for aux. tank with fittings $28
-pvc valve and oil fill cap $16
-radiator $129
-passenger fender $60
-paint and prep supplies at Napa auto (1qt. of copper poly 522 and 1qt. of white 521 plus seam sealer and misc items) $123

TOTAL $1940

[landarts]

Spent some. time today finishing the last part of the drivers side filler work on the rocker. Got it smoothed out and primed. While that was drying I thought I would get the heater control assembly put back together. The middle lever was broken in half, found one on Ebay - NOS part for $12 delivered. I went this route instead of buying a full kit and having to drill out the face . I also had to buy a switch that mounts on the back of the controller, that was $11 in the big order I had with all the reproduction repair panels and other misc items needed for the truck. Now looking for a retainer clip for the top of the retaining pin on the heater control. Once I get that locked down with the retainer clip it will be greased up, cleaned thoroughly and ready to go back to work.

[landarts]

Here is a picture of the retainer clip I found for the top of heater control at local hardware store. It has small tabs in the opening and when you press down it wedges against the metal shaft to hold it. After that I went through and cleaned and lubed everything that I could with a little 3M oil, should be good to go for a while. The lever that was broken was the middle lever, it is the one that has the switch arm attached to it. I believe that the switch started to cease up and by forcing the lever caused it to break.

Next up this weekend will be laying down a few coats of single stage Copper poly 522 on the rust repairs, and hopefully a few coats on the front and back bumper with single stage White 521. After the bumpers are cured I will be shooting the back side of each bumper with 3M undercoating.

[landarts]

Trying to wrap up the passenger door rust repair so I can get some paint on it and hang it. This door had on both bottom corners with the front one being the worst. Rusted through on both sides, luckly the area was just contained to the corners and not anywhere else. I marked out where I wanted to cut out the rust and then made a template of the area so I can match the new metal to the door. I welded in the exterior side first on both corners then proceeded with the front inside corner. Again everything was cleaned out good and treated with rust reformer and weld through primer. I proceeded with scouring the rest of the paint with gray scotch bright after I wiped it down with wax and grease remover. Then followed with a squirt of self etching primer. Will follow up with a coat or two of primer and sand it ready for paint.

I will paint to just under the trim line. I am not going to go crazy with trying to get a perfectly painted door. It is a "Fix and Sale" project not a show truck. Does not mean I dont try to the best I can, just means I will not spend a week on getting it perfect. Anyways here are a few pictures, one before, during and the will be more after it gets the paint.

Last but not least i went to look a two truck deal this morning. Two 68 trucks one running and one not. This will possible be my next project after the 4x4. More to follow!

[cst204x4]

Nice work!

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking good. Do you wash the old rust spots with acid before putting on etch primer?

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Looking good. Do you wash the old rust spots with acid before putting on etch primer?

It depends on where and how much. Sometimes I use a rust converter that I got from Eastwoods that is brush on and others I use a product called Rust Reformer in spray can by Rust-Oleum. Had used them both on a project about ten years ago and have not had any problems with it returning. Sometimes on the floor boards after I have done repairs I will treat with Hammertite. This product is unbelievable how well it converts, seals and in almost chip proof. Another great quality is that it can be bought in quart and gallon cans and it is self leveling. So putting on with a brush or roller will leave no trails. The picture attached is the table legs from my CNC machine that were painted with Hammertite 5 years ago directly on rusty metal, that all I did was clean off any loose stuff and wiped it down with grease and wax remover before painting and still no signs of rust returning. Another plus is no primer needed, in fact instructions say apply to bare metal and it looks like it has been powder coated.

[undertaker72]

Originally Posted by landarts

Here is the other side of the passenger door rust repair also with first round of filler. One more round here and i will add the seam sealer and prep for paint. Other side removed door for last time to make an adjustment to front of rocker and finish tacking in with welds. This is right after I finished grinding down welds and getting ready to add filler where needed. Last picture is with the cowl removed and all the debris vacuumed out, looks really good in there no sign of rust. I also remove it to try and straight out the antenna hole a little better with a hammer and dolly before i put it back on.

Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97
-new 3-way valve for aux. tank with fittings $28
-pvc valve and oil fill cap $16
-radiator $129
-passenger fender $60
-paint and prep supplies at Napa auto (1qt. of copper poly 522 and 1qt. of white 521 plus seam sealer and misc items) $123

TOTAL $1940

nice work, its coming together really nice

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks for the info on the rust converter/paint.

[DWilbur]

Making a lot of progress on the truck looking good.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by undertaker72

nice work, its coming together really nice

Thanks for the props. It has actually been fun working on this truck. I just wish the truck could talk and tell me the story.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Thanks for the info on the rust converter/paint.

Hey no problem, just try to help where I can. I have had so much help from the forum with the wealth of information out there, it is nice to pass on ideas.

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Making a lot of progress on the truck looking good.

Yes it is coming along nicely, thanks!