Minimal for painting?

[WyattTX]

I am thinking of attempting painting. I plan to practice on a battered work truck. I have a large air compressor, and a decent size building. What tools would I need at the bare minimal for paint and body work? I am not looking to spend a large amount of money, as this might be the only time I do this. But I dont want the end result to look like crude trash either. Thanks for any advice.

[Foot Stomper]

Whatever you do, please do not skimp on PPE!
Charcoal mask, gloves, suit, eye protection are a must have. Your health is far more important than anything else.

[WyattTX]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

Whatever you do, please do not skimp on PPE!
Charcoal mask, gloves, suit, eye protection are a must have. Your health is far more important than anything else.

Do not worry, I take safety very seriously. That will be the top priority. I have breathed in painting chemicals by mistake, and it will make you sick for the rest of the day!

[oldusafmsgt]

I'd get two spray guns. A cheap Harbor Freight gun for primer, and a better quality gun for color/clear. Something like a Sharpe that can be had for around a hundred. Put a regulator/gauge on each, disposable filters on each, and practice, practice, practice !

[theastronaut]

A wide variety of sanding blocks will be needed. A durablock set is a decent start, but lately I've switched over to acrylic (lexan/plexiglass) blocks. For the price of a Durablock set you can get a few different small sheets in different thicknesses of acrylic and cut your own blocks to the sizes you'll need. Round the edges so they don't dig in, and use a couple strips of duct or gaffers tape in a "T" shape on the back side as handles. The hard surface will make the sandpaper cut flatter and there will be less ripples. It'll also cut faster since there is no foam backing to absorb any high spots. I've noticed that the sandpaper wears out quicker since switching over. PVC sticks can be used for concave areas if they're straight enough (top of the bedside on a 73-87 for example), or if it's not straight a peice of lexan that's thin enough to flex and fit the shape will work.

Here's a decent article on making your own blocks. I don't like backing them with foam though, that defeats the purpose of having a flat block. Softer foam blocks can be used once the rougher shaping is done, and you're moving on to the paint prep/smoothing part of the job.

http://www.antiquecar.com/bodyshop/b...ck_sanding.php


Here's a set on ebay to give you and idea of the tape handles. The tape handles let the blocks flex with the surface of the truck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1323162...=ps&dispItem=1



You'll need mixing cups for the primer and paint.

Spreaders and something non-porous to mix filler and spot putty on.

A few cans of cheap black rattle can paint for guide coat.

36, 80, 180 dry sandpaper (I use sticky back Mirka) for blocking the filler and primer. Use rough paper for doing the rough bodywork. You're "shaping" the panel, so you need to use rough paper to get the shape right. Smoother paper will not shape, it only smooths the shape that's already there.

280, and 500 wet sandpaper (if spraying non metallic base) or 800 (metallic) for wetsanding the primer. This is "smoothing" paper for after the shaping is done. The 280 will get the orange peel out of the last coats of primer/surfacer, and the 5/800 will make it smooth enough to paint over.

Two guns. One with a large tip (2.0-2.5) for filler primer, and a 1.3 or 1.4 gun for epoxy and base/clear. Filters for both.

Good lighting so you can see what you're doing.

Something to keep moisture out of the air lines.

[bs46488]

I just did something similar to what your looking to do. I am pleased with the outcome.

I bought most of my supplies through Summit. 6 pc Dura block, a cheap DA, I bought all my sand papers at Summit. I liked the 3 pc paint guns from TCP Global.

I bought all my paints online, but since I'm in California I had to shop around to find who could ship to me.

[WyattTX]

Thanks, you guys are awsome. Once I get my compressor set up, I might just get to work at it.

[72HuggerK20]

You can get by with a cheap paint gun because you'll have to cut and buff anyway due to not having a booth (I'm assuming). Like the others said, a good mask is very important. A DA sander cuts prep time in half. You doing single stage or BC/CC?

[WyattTX]

Originally Posted by 72HuggerK20

You can get by with a cheap paint gun because you'll have to cut and buff anyway due to not having a booth (I'm assuming). Like the others said, a good mask is very important. A DA sander cuts prep time in half. You doing single stage or BC/CC?

I plan on doing BC/CC. I do lack a booth, but I have a building with a concrete floor. I was thinking of wetting the floor to keep dust down, and putting of some plastic sheeting, to prevent foriegn matter from coming in. Is this a good idea? Would the floor wetting add too much humidity to the air?

[72HuggerK20]

I've found it to be easier and to give better results anyway if you don't waste the time doing all that setup to try to emulate a booth. You might as well face the fact that for a really good finish, you'll have to cut and buff. You're a beginner; you'll have orange peel, possibly a sag here or there, and definitely a bunch of dust. One of the best paint jobs I've ever seen was done in a gravel yard in a makeshift tent. It's all about what you do before and after the paint job.

[WyattTX]

Originally Posted by 72HuggerK20

I've found it to be easier and to give better results anyway if you don't waste the time doing all that setup to try to emulate a booth. You might as well face the fact that for a really good finish, you'll have to cut and buff. You're a beginner; you'll have orange peel, possibly a sag here or there, and definitely a bunch of dust. One of the best paint jobs I've ever seen was done in a gravel yard in a makeshift tent. It's all about what you do before and after the paint job.

Thanks, I guess it is all about practice.

[panhead59]

Yep, practice and patience. A common "mistake" is to get hung up and taking too long. Use rough paper to start with and knock the crap outta it. Don't worry about perfection, it doesn't come at the beginning. Always use some type of block with paper. Taking to long will get u discouraged and many quit because of this. Mix patience with knocking it out and you'll do fine. Single stage will save a ton of money and doesn't really have to many down sides.