Fenders media blasted. What next??

[desert-rat]

So here's what I got after media blasting. Seems like someone before had a great time with a slide hammer. Seems like the holes are raised. Should I hammer/dolly the holes and weld them closed and try to hammer/dolly out the rest then use body filler?? Any other ideas or options?? Thanks.
Not sure why the picture uploaded up side down.

[jumpsoffrock]

The pictures load the same orientation as they were taken by your camera; the best advice I can give is to pay close attention to what your phone is doing when taking the picture....make sure your phone is oriented correctly in the first place.

I am not much of a body/metalworking guy so you may not care for my opinion: you could try and smooth it out a bit with hammer/dolly stuff, at least the hole protrusions wouldn't be so extreme.

Or obviously you could source a fender with those ares in better condition and cut and weld.

I always wondered how professional metal workers would deal with a panel like yours.

[CC69Rat]

Any areas you feel like would need to come 'down' a little you can hammer and dolly, or course any low spots you want to bring 'up' would be the inverse .. but any areas you decide would be best to apply a light skim coat of filler, lightly sand with 36 / 60 grit to give the filler a good bite / bond with the metal. I really like the UPol products, or of course Evercoat, Rage, etc. Just enough to bring it back to 'As flat as you can get it, for right now' sand to bare metal, apply the filler.

Follow the initial body filler and / or hand dolly work with a good Epoxy primer. Think of this Epoxy primer coat as a way to seal back the metal. Keep water from penetrating and rusting from under the paint and primer layers. The Epoxy coat is not really intended as anything more than that. Just to protect and seal the metal from rusting.

You'll have around a 7 day window to follow up the Epoxy primer with a good quality 2k primer. Make sure you get the 2k primer on as soon as you can, there is a Chemical bond that happens between the Epoxy layer and the 2k Primer layers. The 2k primer is what you'll use for blocking and really get the panel flat. Anything bey9nd 7 days you'll risk delamination between those layers. The Epoxy dries up so hard the 2k primer just can't stick to it. Try to get it in 2k primer in that 7 day window.

I usually do 2 good wet coats of 2k primer, then guide coat it. Block with 320, cut it down and you will start to see the highs and lows. High spots will show bare metal as you sand, low spots will show darker / guide coat.
If you blow through to bare metal again, you'll need more Epoxy to seal it back.

2k block at 320. See what you're working with. Final body work, hammer / dollies, light fuller / glaze coat, prime again with 2k.

Block it again. I usually block it as necessary up to 500 grit if the final paint is not metallic. 600 if it is metallic.

Sealer..

Base coat

Clear

Cut and buff..

Just my .02
Hope this helps.

[hugger6933]

As simple as it seems you are on the right path hammer the highs flip it do it again flip it do it again with less force each time cause you will move a bunch of metal too quick if you hit with lets say over excitement. weld up the holes if you can grind that back down.
Now here is we have a couple of camps, and neither is wrong both are right. You could grind with a fiber disc and wipe with filler[ I use rage gold but it lists now for $224 a gal.] My cost was $112 but last I got before that was $56 so every thing cost more. smooth the filler I use 80, 180 then epoxy prime. OR, you can prime then wipe your filler both may require a couple extra coats of epoxy once done because of sanding around the filler will expose metal again but no biggie.
Some of the best stuff I use to improve body work, a good block and a paint stick broken down short to wrap sandpaper on it that little stick can be a really good friend getting your filler right. Then after it is right you go on with the high build primer I use Omni[PPG] high build 282. Couple three coats of that and your dent will be fixed and a distant memory. this is not called body fun it is called body work for a reason. It is labor intensive and very time consuming. The more you do the better you will be. I have been building truck over 30 plus years and very little makes me nervous about working on anything. Good luck if I can help holler at me. Jim

[jumpsoffrock]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

As simple as it seems you are on the right path hammer the highs flip it do it again flip it do it again with less force each time cause you will move a bunch of metal too quick if you hit with lets say over excitement. weld up the holes if you can grind that back down.
Now here is we have a couple of camps, and neither is wrong both are right. You could grind with a fiber disc and wipe with filler[ I use rage gold but it lists now for $224 a gal.] My cost was $112 but last I got before that was $56 so every thing cost more. smooth the filler I use 80, 180 then epoxy prime. OR, you can prime then wipe your filler both may require a couple extra coats of epoxy once done because of sanding around the filler will expose metal again but no biggie.
Some of the best stuff I use to improve body work, a good block and a paint stick broken down short to wrap sandpaper on it that little stick can be a really good friend getting your filler right. Then after it is right you go on with the high build primer I use Omni[PPG] high build 282. Couple three coats of that and your dent will be fixed and a distant memory. this is not called body fun it is called body work for a reason. It is labor intensive and very time consuming. The more you do the better you will be. I have been building truck over 30 plus years and very little makes me nervous about working on anything. Good luck if I can help holler at me. Jim

The funny thing about doing my own body work is that you'd think DIY is a lot of work, and saves money; but it's not like the products and tools are cheap!

DIY body work is still very expensive, and being as much of a novice as I am, it's very easy to screw up and waste $20 of body filler, $10 of sanding disks, A few bucks in primer, hours of your time, electricity to run the air compressor/tools/lights, cleaning agents for your equipment.

Lord almighty no wonder why so many people say no to body work.

[CC69Rat]

I don't do it for a living, I just do a Fender or hood occasionally. I don't have a shop or booth

But, ask 10 people you'll get 10 different variations. Jim is the man though.

Just me personally I work the metal, sand at 36/80. Apply a skim of filler. And as he said get the filler as flat as you can and get it close. 80, then again at 180 will get you there. Epoxy primer, then 2K primer within 7 days. 220, 320 block and guide. Final prime and block to around 600. Especially if you'll be using a metallic base, or the metallic will settle in the sand scratches and you'll see your body work. If you're using a single stage non metallic urethane (?) I'd probably go to 600 to be sure but 500 (imo) would work. Final sealer, base, clear, cut and buff.

It's a lot of work.. and why body shops charge what they charge. The tools, materials are not cheap and very important to a high quality result. You're right though,after you add everything together it makes that 6-7k paint job seem a little easier to swallow.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by desert-rat

So here's what I got after media blasting. Seems like someone before had a great time with a slide hammer. Seems like the holes are raised. Should I hammer/dolly the holes and weld them closed and try to hammer/dolly out the rest then use body filler?? Any other ideas or options?? Thanks.
Not sure why the picture uploaded up side down.

Hammer and dolly and welding holes would be my advise. If you ever have a hole that you are filling over use duraglass as a first coat. If you used just bondo moisture will get in from behind and crack the filler.
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