should i go for it?

[jiggamann420]

Im thinking of painting the '72. but, i've never painted a vehicle before. i've painted a little, but only machinery that doesn't require an auto finish. i have an awsome gun and booth to work in, but i would rather have the paint thats on it now than to have a cheesy looking paint job. what do you guys think?

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'69 chev 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive
'69 gmc 20 350/4 sp
'71 chev 10 cst w/ factory buckets
'72 chev 30 factory 402/4 spd
'72 gmc who the hell knows what options it had originally.

[dbenamati]

Sounds like you have more experience than you think. I did mine the first time with a standard gun and no experience. Didn't look too bad but I will redo this summer. Getting the paint mix right is half the battle. Mixed my paint too thin and had more runs. Go for it, the worst to happen is a do over

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Dave Benamati
Hughesville, PA USA (near Williamsport)
67 Chevy Long Bed Step Side (250) 80,ooo Orig.
99 Pontiac Firebird

[Dave-O]

Go for it man. I'm in the same situation myself. Just think of the satisfaction your gonna get from it.

I am told to use a laquer paint. Since I have never done it if it runs I am told I can just buff it out...

Go for it! You'll always wish you had, if you don't do it yourself. Somebody who has done it before, could possibly be bribed to help out (a 6-pack is a powerful inticement!)

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72 long fleet, 355 4 speed, primer, walnut goodies. Check out my web site: http://shadetree72.homestead.com

[cheese wagon]

Go for it ! I did a caprice station wagon, two tone blue(dark met.on top& bottom and light blue met.in the middle). And the two tone went inside the car too. All you have to do is take your time, and keep your mix even. I used to paint big F700's for my last job, where we made cranes(also painted them). Good luck, and keep on trucking.

[galoolie]

I painted my 68 as a first time project. It looked pretty good, but I used cheap paint: acrlic enamel ($125.00). Then I had a guy paint my step van using some really nice base-coat clear-coat and it looke great. Six years later the acrylic enamel is flat while the base-coat clear-coat still looks primo. Moral of the story: use good paint.

[dubie]

It's definetly an experience. Two years ago, I cut out all the rust and temporarily patched it with fiberglas to stop ,or at least slow the rusting process. Then I bought an acrylic enamel (fancy word for rust paint) and sprayed it on with a Wagner sprayer. It turned out not bad, but I am going to redo it in a couple months. It gives you a great feeling of accomplishment, when you stand back and take a look at what you have done.

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72 C/10 LWB 2wd
250 inline 6, 3 speed, Kenwood system, very blue rust paint

[PbFut]

I am in middle of a painting my 72. You need to be realistic on how much time you have. I am retired and it's eating up most of my time since late Nov. I had rust damage to the top of the bed rails and doors messed up from someone caving in the camper mirrors. I have completed body and block. Just tested the sealer primer over the filler primer. I used Rustoleum 2 in 1 filler primer. Since I just do small areas as time permits the rattle can method worked good. I found out midway that Rustoleum does not play well with other products. I was careful to allow plenty cure time before today's test. I used a piece of old hood. I also shot a small part, the cover for a factory aux fuel tank. All went better than expected up to this point. Still long ways to go. I took all trim and glass out. I wanted to remove bed but the bumper is welded to the frame and bed. I was scope creeping anyway so decided let that idea go. One thing I learned. Pick your paint and work backwards picking primer and gun(s). Buy the best gun you can afford paying attention to ease to clean. You will spend 2500 to 3000 on paint, supplies and medium level gun. Lots of sanding. Be sure you have time and physical ability. I come in the house a bit beat up some days.

[bhap]

If you have access to a booth, do you have access to a painter? Most of the work is in the prep. I'd suggest taking what ever direction you can get from the shop and do most/all of the prep work yourself and have someone "experienced" come in and put the icing on the cake... it would be a shame to get bad results after you put all the work in to getting it ready... good luck either way!!

[hugger6933]

Prep is key when you think it is ready to paint you still need to sand some more. Then after sanding more, you need to sand some more. I have experience , I've owned a body shop longer than some of these guys have been alive. No knock to them I have just been in a long time and seen lots of things. I have been rebuilding wrecks and doing muscle cars and trucks since 1987. So I have plenty to offer in help areas. If you do need help let me know and I'll do my best for you or anyone I can help. I think by the time you shot primer[epoxy] then prime again [hibuild] and seal then base coat you will have a good feel of the gun and what it takes to lay out some decent product. If you have problems to that point you sand them out and spot spray the trouble area. the base isnt hardly any different than spraying the primer. so really the only thing to be nervous about is clear coat like I said above by the time you get that far you will def be comfortable enough to spray out the clear without much worry. Jim