Gen VI BBC Oil Filter Question

[Marine-58]

Forgive me if I am not explaining this very well. I have never built a Gen VI BBC before and have run into a question on setting up the oil filter. The stock set up used a remote filter/cooler. Since this engine isn't going back into a stock setup, it won't have anything remote, just needs a standard screw on filter. There were some "check valves" and from what I can see, there are 5 oil holes. 2 where the filter adapter will go and 3 on the oil pan rail.

All that for the question, which ones do I need to plug versus remove the check valve. After searching the web, there doesn't appear to be much out there on this subject and this forum has always had some really smart guys responding.

Just for a separate reference, this engine will be about 650 HP, but need to get it built and over to the dyno to make sure.

[B. W.]

This one might help you:

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...block-vi.9857/

['63GENIII]

Ill look through the photos of my build. I cannot for the life of me remember where the bypass went in. I do remember plugging the 2 holes along the pan rail and pulling the center bypass out when I had 5 # of oil pressure on start up.

Do not forget the stupid o ring on the rear main cap. Its a pain to get in if you forget it..... and have the engine in and running...

['63GENIII]

Cant believe I took pictures but here they are.
#1 New bypass (just to the right of the oval hole)and 2 plugs where cooler lines were attached. Cooler bypass pulled out with pick from center oil filter hole.
#2 Rear main cap without o ring - will lose oil pressure like this.
#3 Rear main cap with o ring - good oil pressure again.

Interestingly, i did the o ring with the engine in the truck, reused the 1 piece gasket and to date with near 5,000 pretty hard miles on it... no leaks. This engine was much easier to seal than the older big blocks that I had dealt with.

[Marine-58]

Everyone, Thank You for the responses. Looks like this was just what was needed. Will take care of this over the weekend. Sometimes I sure miss the old school designs... They made sense...

[68is4me]

Tagging this post. I was also wondering the same info. Will be building one in the near future.

Was also wondering about the front oil squirters for the timing chain. The plugs that go in the oil galleys with the little holes in them. Are all 3 plugs supposed to have the holes in them?

[Marine-58]

Good question... I haven't gone that far yet. Will be nice to know that answer. I did find out that if you are going with a double roller timing chain, that it takes a deeper cover than most of them on the market. Still looking for a good one that will work.

This Gen VI certainly has some tricks to it...

[Marine-58]

Found an answer for the Timing Chain oil question. Don't have a picture but as you are looking at the front of the block, there are 3 plugs above the cam. The one on the left (about 10:00) will need a hole drilled between 0.031 and 0.035. This will allow oil to the timing chain without affecting oil pressure.

this link has a lot of info.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...hat-help.2187/

The challenge will be drilled the hole with that small a bit and holding the plug without damaging it...

['63GENIII]

When I tore the L29 down for machining, I had saved all of the plugs as I pulled them out. I do recall looking for the ones with holes as well. Didn't have any so I replaced the old ones with the same style - no holes. Could be due to roller / flat tappet cam designs? If you zoom in on the cam sprocket, you can get a better look at the plugs.

For the timing chain, yes double roller needs a different cover. I used a single roller Hex Adjust which even had differences that took into account the crank reluctor. First one that I got didn't allow for the reluctor. The right one had a "step" or offset in it to fit the reluctor behind the cover and lined up with the crank sensor.

[Marine-58]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

When I tore the L29 down for machining, I had saved all of the plugs as I pulled them out. I do recall looking for the ones with holes as well. Didn't have any so I replaced the old ones with the same style - no holes. Could be due to roller / flat tappet cam designs? If you zoom in on the cam sprocket, you can get a better look at the plugs.

For the timing chain, yes double roller needs a different cover. I used a single roller Hex Adjust which even had differences that took into account the crank reluctor. First one that I got didn't allow for the reluctor. The right one had a "step" or offset in it to fit the reluctor behind the cover and lined up with the crank sensor.

Thanks for the response and the picture. Looks just like mine but don't have the degree wheel on yet...

Looks like we have the same thing but maybe one difference. I'm not putting the valley pan back in. The new lifters have a strap to keep them aligned and don't use the factory blocks. The factory valley pan has the fingers which will interfere with the lifter straps. Without the valley pan, it isn't obvious how oil will get to the chain since the hole above the cam into the valley pan area, has a pretty tall lip. Just figure to be safe on this.

The timing chain cover is a 2 piece Com Cams to clear the double roller chain. I'm not using crank timing so don't have the reluctor. One of the bigger challenges was finding valve covers tall enough to clear the stud girdles. Needed 3.75" clearance. Last night I measured for the pushrods and got those on order. Hopefully the last parts that will be needed. The wife is starting to raise an eyebrow on all the cost...

[68is4me]

I found this pic on super chevy that they were upgrading a cam on the zz454. In the picture you can see that 2 of the plugs have the holes drilled in them. I am sure that they have to be there to bleed of air in the lifters. So I will put them in just like they have them.