4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

DransportGarage · 11-09-2011, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkeksisNV

Yea, I never saw that image. May want to run some mal-ware program, check for some adware that may have gotten by your scanner.

I was confident "Avast" blocked it, but I ran "Malwarebytes" anyway. No probs. (Both of these tools have excellent free versions, btw, if anyone is interested. Just download them, click the icon and pick the type of scan you want to run.)

DransportGarage · 11-09-2011, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkeksisNV

This is a very nice color. Love it.

Thanks, Skeksis. The wife has great taste!

16N67 · 11-09-2011, 11:15 AM

Nice color, good luck with the rebuild

DransportGarage · 11-10-2011, 12:27 AM

Thanks, 16N67. I started re-assembly today, as promised. I will follow the ATSG Manual for this build. Here are a few rules I set for myself:
1) I assume that every rubber piece (including piston seals) are brittle (or worse) and need to be replaced.
2) I clean all parts, used and new. My usual is to clean them with stoddard solvent to get the worst off, then with spray brake cleaner. (My NAPA store has 16-oz brake cleaner for $1.99).
3) Torque every bolt! The manual has torque specs at the back. This is especially critical on the valve body where over-torquing can cause casting warpage and sticking valves.
4) I select a junk box and throw every replaced part into it as I proceed.

Since I had painted the case, I started the day by unmasking, then cleaning the paint from surfaces that would come in contact with o-rings, seals, etc. Then I thoroughly blew off the case (especially passages) again, for the umpteenth time.

Since I had removed the case bushing I reinstalled it to start the re-assembly. Then I blew the case out again in case there was a shaving from the bush. Shown is my homemade cam bearing installer sitting on top of the installed bushing. The driver doesn't step down into the bushing, but it doesn't have to on this since it gets installed flush with the case. There are 2 cutouts in the rear of this bush, but their orientation doesn't appear to be important. I put it in the way the original was though.

Then the vent tube went in. It's good practice to extend this hose on the outside to keep any escaping fluid from hitting the exhaust (fire hazard).

The seal for the selector shaft was next, shown with the shaft here. I had to deburr the shaft for smooth installation. The ATSG Manual tells you to install the selector linkage and parking paul at this time, but if you do you can't get the low-reverse piston in. Hold off on this.

The manual said to install the 2-4 servo piston next (temporarily, I assumed), so I set up my Corvette servo per the Transgo instructions in the 700-2&3 kit, then installed it. The purpose of this was to check the 3rd accumulator passage for leakage into the bell housing. All was OK. I removed the servo.

Installation of the lo-reverse piston was next. I removed the case from the fixture and set it on end on the floor for a more solid perch. I inserted the piston into the case WITHOUT ITS 3 O-RINGS. This allowed me to see how far down the piston had to go. I then removed the piston, installed the 3 o-rings on the piston and lubed them and the case with "Assemblee Goo". I aligned the notch on the rear of the piston with the slot in the case. Then I used a 2-1/2" ID pipe and hammer to gently drive the piston into the case.

I installed the spring assembly and compression tool as shown here. Installation of the snap ring was a bummer because my snap ring pliers are too beefy, but I got it in.

Here's a better pic of the homemade install tool for those of you who want to make it.

While I'm at it, here's a diagram of the holding fixture.

Now's the time to install the selector linkage (and parking paul if you had removed it).

Here's the parking paul end. Also shown is the exterior electrical plug that I installed as well.

Next was the reaction planetary gear set, shown installed and ready for the clutches and steels, which were placed in the following order:

Wavy backing plate
Selective (.071" steel)
Friction
.071" steel
Friction
.071" steel
Friction
.071" steel
Friction
.071" steel
Friction

The anti-clunk spring went in next. I then disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled the low roller clutch (sprag), making sure the internal race rotated clockwise when installed.

I installed the sprag assembly ("lo-reverse support assembly) and large snap ring into the case, but I have a problem. If you look closely at the picture, the anti-clunk spring is not in the pressure plate slot. I'll have to find out what to do about this.

That's it for tonight.

dicer · 11-11-2011, 04:07 AM

I didn't use a fancy spring compressor like that one. So far its the easy stuff. LOL
Keep us posted, great write up.

clinebarger · 11-12-2011, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

The anti-clunk spring went in next. I then disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled the low roller clutch (sprag), making sure the internal race rotated clockwise when installed.

I installed the sprag assembly ("lo-reverse support assembly) and large snap ring into the case, but I have a problem. If you look closely at the picture, the anti-clunk spring is not in the pressure plate slot. I'll have to find out what to do about this.

That's it for tonight.

The anti cluck spring is jammed between the center support & case, I use a hose pick to guide the spring into the support lug. The snap ring is installed wrong, It needs to contact ALL the lugs, Here some pics to help you out. The black lines are where the ends of the snap ring need to be

DransportGarage · 11-12-2011, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clinebarger

The anti cluck spring is jammed between the center support & case, I use a hose pick to guide the spring into the support lug. The snap ring is installed wrong, It needs to contact ALL the lugs, Here some pics to help you out. The black lines are where the ends of the snap ring need to be

Thanks, CB. I went to a local shop yesterday and got another anti-clunk spring. Mine was bent funny. Thanks for the tip on the snap ring. Problems fixed.

DransportGarage · 11-12-2011, 10:15 AM

I thought I'd do a post on just the installation of the input shaft teflon rings. This was mysterious to me the first time I heard about it.

Here's the "installer tool", cut out of a plastic bottle. It's 2-3/4" x 3-3/8", .025" thick. The dimensions aren't very critical. Just be sure the plastic doesn't overlap when it's over the ring area.

In this picture I've got 2 rings already installed, and I'm putting the third one on.

The resizer is a stator shaft cut off of an old oil pump. It already has a nice internal chamfer cut into the one end. Lube the rings up and take your time coaxing them into the tube. Let the assembly sit until you're ready to install the pump. (If you make the compressor tool shown below, be sure to allow the input shaft to fit into it with this tube in place.)

DransportGarage · 11-12-2011, 11:48 AM

Here's the rest of the stuff I did yesterday.

After the lo-reverse clutch was air-operated, the reaction sun gear was installed. This is normally installed into the major assembly, but because of Chinese manufacturing, the "beast" sunshell did not fit it as well as the old sunshell did. After a call to the supplier, I drove the sun gear into the "beast". I then stuck the black washer to the bottom of the "beast" with "Assemblee Goo", installed the sub-assembly, followed by the thrust washer, as shown.

The input carrier ass'y, support bearing and planetary went in next.

The output shaft and snap ring went in next. The trick here is to have an appropriate snap ring pliers. This pic shows my fancy output shaft support, precision cut to about 8-3/4". (Your mileage may vary.)

Work on the input clutch housing came next. Here's a pic of the spring compressor. I hung the one part with an old o-ring to give you a good view of the details. One neat feature of this tool is that the upper portion can be swung out of the way when it comes time to put the pistons in. Disassembly was uneventful. Just pay attention to the details.

Although this transmission was functioning when removed (so said the previous owner), this shot shows three of the 3-4 clutches that were in the middle of the pack. From left to right, the first has teeth that are about a third the size they should be. The middle clutch has NO TEETH left. The third one is about normal. In general, the friction surfaces were well-worn. On the previous owner's advice I almost installed this trans, but thought better of it. I'm sure glad I decided to rebuild!

Here's a shot of the internal gear. It's not as bad as it looks. The profile of the teeth that will drive the new clutches is almost unaffected.

After giving the parts a bath I finished off the day by installing the 3-4 clutch piston. You only have to deal with the outer lip seal. I found that my .045" lip seal wire worked best for me.

faithblinded · 11-12-2011, 12:31 PM

Thanks for posting this so thoroughly! I'm watching for a local craigslist 700r4 for my Burb. This will really help once I snag one and get ready to rebuild it. It's alot to learn, but it's hard to put a price on the peace of mind of having done it yourself, and knowing whats in there. Kudos!
Ken in Cleveland

DransportGarage · 11-12-2011, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by faithblinded

Thanks for posting this so thoroughly! I'm watching for a local craigslist 700r4 for my Burb. This will really help once I snag one and get ready to rebuild it. It's alot to learn, but it's hard to put a price on the peace of mind of having done it yourself, and knowing whats in there. Kudos!
Ken in Cleveland

I didn't do the disassembly pics, but the ATSG manual does a very good job there. I also have an '88 'vette manual with 100+ pages of procedures, but the ATSG is twice as good as the GM manual. They use the GM pictures, but augment them with more pics and more practical info.

Here's a list of links, in no particular order, to some of the info I dug up (i.e., your HOMEWORK!):

1)

4L60E Rebuild Part 1 - YouTube

2)

4L60E Rebuild Part 2 - YouTube

These two have a lot of humor value. Young guys doing work that is sometimes haphazard, but maybe you can pick out a few tidbits of info (like, don't take the truck to the dealer).

3)

4L60E Rebuild Walkthrough - YouTube

13 minutes. Superficial, but don't miss the link to myoffroad. Go to the menu on the left of that link, page down and review "4L60E Transmission Job".

4) http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums...700r4-rebuild/
The 7 links to pdfs in here are pretty in-depth. It also shows you how grungy a 700R4 can get!

5) http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...e-rebuild.html
I guy in Croatia did this one. Smart guy. No teardown on this one, but great info.

6) http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...e-rebuild.html
Here's what looks like a good deal on a pressure gauge.

7) http://www.altousa.com/am/instruction-sheets
Here are the instruction sheets for anything and everything on the ALTO website.

8)

Automatic Transmission repair (How to) Part 1...

9)

Automatic Transmission repair (How to) Part 2...

10)

Automatic Transmission repair (How to) Part 3*...

11)

Automatic Transmission repair (How to) Part 4...

These are 4 videos from ATSG. Very interesting overall.

12) http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-...up-photos.html
Another DIYer on the LS1 forum. This one has a sad ending.

13) http://www.mez.co.uk/Chevy700r4pg5.html
An interesting source for homemade tools.

14) http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...arts_s/641.htm
PRO: For my money, the best prices on the web, with great parts.
CON: 1. Tech help can be rude, short on info. 2. Website will have a great part, but won't tell you the vendor (e.g., the Master Kit doesn't tell you it has the Raybestos frictions, or the Transgo Kits won't tell you which kit it is by Transgo number.) 3. You pay all shipping, but the good prices more than offset.

15) http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html
Very nice rebuild article.

16) http://www.roadrunnerconverters.com/gm.htm
Looks like a reasonable alternative to hi-$$ converters.

17) http://transgoonline.com/700_2&3Video.html
An outdated but VERY informative video on Transgo 700-2&3 kit. Transgo's tech help (i.e., Glenn) goes the extra mile. I called for a 30-second answer and Glenn gave me 10 minutes of tips! I bought the kit.

18) http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14198
This is a wordy thread, but the guy does some nice work.

19) http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/auto...es-200537.html
Another way to hold a tranny, but I prefer my fixture 100x over.

That should be enough. This is the result of about 50 Google searches.

faithblinded · 11-12-2011, 05:56 PM

Wow. This thread deserves sticky status after that, if it didn't already!

thanks again!
Ken in Cleveland

DransportGarage · 11-12-2011, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by faithblinded

Wow. This thread deserves sticky status after that, if it didn't already!

thanks again!
Ken in Cleveland

Don't encourage me too much. I'll burn up all the bandwidth and server storage!

DransportGarage · 11-12-2011, 11:00 PM

Unlike my budget build, here's a link I just found to a high-end no-compromise build by "PeteK" on the Corvette-Guru forum. I wouldn't have added just any build to the info already provided. This guy knows what he's doing, and the 5-part step-by-step is excellent!

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules...=10612&forum=1

Hopefully I'll get away from the honeydew list tomorrow and get back into the garage.

dicer · 11-13-2011, 01:11 AM

The teflon seals no big deal. Its those stinking lip seals on clutch pistons in that aluminum input clutch deal. I can't stand lip seals. I love to see them do them at the factory.

I doesn't look like the kids bothered with the clutch pistons, seals. So do they think they are fixing the problem by not?

DransportGarage · 11-13-2011, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dicer

The teflon seals no big deal. Its those stinking lip seals on clutch pistons in that aluminum input clutch deal. I can't stand lip seals. I love to see them do them at the factory.

I doesn't look like the kids bothered with the clutch pistons, seals. So do they think they are fixing the problem by not?

My last trans was about 20 years ago - a TH350. Those o-rings and lip seals on that one were like the leather shoestrings on combat boots. This one's not so bad, but I don't recommend taking the chance. As you know, the better the seals the higher the pressure on the clutch packs and the longer the tranny lives.

DransportGarage · 11-13-2011, 10:17 PM

I suppose it's time to report in. It was a good day in the garage. I started off by looking at the Transgo instructions for the spring kit. In that kit they provide an orifice to replace the ball capsule in the output housing, so I removed the 3-4 clutch piston that I had put in yesterday, drove out the capsule and installed the orifice with loctite, per instructions. The piston, because it had been in all night, just slipped back in with a twist.

NOTE: Since both the Transgo Kit & the manual said not to re-use the 3-4 load release spring assemblies (a.k.a. 3-4 return springs), I pitched 'em.

Moving forward, I installed the o-ring into the input housing groove, then the 3-4 clutch apply ring, which is kinda like a mini-beast. This apply ring is what the 3-4 clutch piston internal lip seal seats on.

Rather than just put in the stock 3-4 clutch return spring, I R&R'ed the 22 stock springs with 14 Transgo "white" springs. (You should use all 22 white springs for hi-rev applications, as described in the kit.) Here they are being installed, with the first 6 in place. (One of them may still be in the air. Don't pry on them without having a good grip!)

NOTE: If you buy the Transgo 700-2&3 Programming Kit, this "Hi-Rev Spring Pak" (for the 3-4 and overrun clutch) comes in it. The input housing orifice (described earlier in this post) is also in there.

The ASTG manual says to install the forward clutch housing, forward clutch piston, and overrun clutch piston, in that order, but I couldn't get the forward clutch piston to go into the housing. (You can't easily reach the lipseal with the tool.) So I cheated. I put the piston in housing first, then put them into the case as a unit. Worked great. Then the overrun clutch piston went in.

Modification of the overrun clutch return spring was next. I replace the 14 original springs with 10 of the replacement springs. (Use all 14 replacement springs for hi-rev engines.)

Here's the Overrun Clutch Spring Ass'y in place. As you can see in this pic, I've made a 2nd lip seal tool. This smaller one is made from 1/8" copper tubing and .015" piano wire. It's perfect for the ID lip seals! I was really worried about the lip seals, but this last piston went in in less than 3 minutes, and I was really taking my time.

I checked the piston actuation via the three holes in the input shaft. No problems.

Rebuild of the forward sprag subassembly was next, and I upgraded to the 29-element Borg-Warner. This was simple disassembly/reassembly. Do the check in the manual to make sure it's not installed upside down and you'll have no problem.

The two overrun clutch plates and steels went in next. Then I slipped the sprag subassembly in.

Here's the sprag subassembly in place.

The forward clutch pack was next, and the manual is very clear here.

My feeler gauges are flat, so they wouldn't slide past the step in the backing plate. So I picked up a paper clip that would not fit under the snap ring. Then I flat-sanded it on a piece of 320 grit until it did, then miked it. My clearance was .042", so I was nicely tight on the .040"-.063" spec.

I'm going to stop this post here, and do the 3-4 clutch pack in the next post since it is a significant modification from stock.

DransportGarage · 11-13-2011, 11:12 PM

And now the infamous 3-4 clutch pack. Even on a stock rebuild, this is by far the most complex part of the manual (so far), with a fair bunch of variation from model to model. As you may recall, I bought the Alto HP Red 9-friction Power Pak, so that adds another layer of "simplicity".

For starters, I could not figure out what the "3-4 Clutch Apply Ring" was (brain fart), but I finally determined that it was that "mini-beast" I had installed 2 hours ago. (See previous post.) Alto wanted me to measure it to see which one I had. Well, I stripped the unit back down to the overrun clutch spring assembly, but I just didn't have the fortitude to start pulling out pistons again. Instead, I put it back together, then used Clinebarger's wisdom that the hard parts in this V-6 trans were the same as the V-8 in 1991 (even though Alto was giving me different directions for the "Late V-6"). So I treated it like a V-8.

I had a choice between "V-8 regular or heavy duty" and "V-8 performance or race". I chose the former because the apply plate was beefier (even though it would use one less friction).

**********

For reference, here are the thicknesses of the components:

Orig. snap ring: .092"
New snap ring: .062"

Orig. steel: .077"
New steel (thin): .058"
New Steel (thick): .077"

Orig. apply plate (stepped): .185"
New apply plate: .125" (actually, this is the new backing plate)

Orig. backing plate: .188"
New backing plate: .125"

(new and orig. frictions not measured - didn't care)

**********
Guided by the Alto directions for "late V-8 regular or heavy duty", here is my stack-up, with 8 frictions and 8 steels:

Orig. snap ring
Orig. backing plate
New friction
New steel (thick)
New friction
New steel (thin)
New friction
New steel (thin)
New friction
New steel (thin)
New friction
New steel (thin)
New friction
New steel (thin)
New friction
New steel (thin)
New friction
New steel (thin)
Orig. Apply Plate (stepped)
Orig. 3-4 clutch retainer

Clearance is .029".
**********

Here's the 3-4 apply plate in place (step is on top).

...and here's a pic of the 2nd Kolene steel in place. I noticed that the teeth can go in two different ways. I couldn't find a picture, but put them in this way to minimize rotation.

That's it for tonight. Things appear to be wonderful. Anyone see any problems with all this?

16N67 · 11-14-2011, 08:45 AM

Looks good, you will be wanting to do another one.

DransportGarage · 11-14-2011, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16N67

Looks good, you will be wanting to do another one.

You would have to ask yourself, "Should I trust this guy with my transmission?"

clinebarger · 11-14-2011, 11:42 PM

Everything looks good, Congrats on the 3-4 clutch pack, You really did your homework .022 to .035 is spec .029 is perfect, what shape is the reverse input drum in? (the surface the 2-4 band rides on).

7 vs 8 vs 9 frictions on the 3-4 clutches is a never-ending debate, 8 is a good choice. Keep us updated.

DransportGarage · 11-14-2011, 11:42 PM

Having completed the input drum assembly yesterday, the day started off with the disassembly and cleanup of the Reverse Input Housing. The ATSG manual suggested that the hole in the reverse input piston is too big. The next 2 pictures show the plugging of the original and drilling of the new one.

The text is hard to read, and I'm too tired to redo it. The hole on the left is the original hole that has been plugged from behind with a set screw. (Some kits provide a pre-drilled orifice cup plug, but I used a set screw. If you use this, you don't have to drill the new hole on the right.)

The hole on the right is the new 1/16" hole. The manual doesn't tell you what size to drill, but the ATSG video Part 3 does (right at the beginning of the video).

Here's the flipside showing the #10-32 set screw on the left. The hole on the right looks big, but it doesn't go all the way through at that diameter.

As you can see, this is a really nice housing. I dressed the band surface with 400 grit paper followed by 600 grit. If there's a thousandth deviation I couldn't detect it with my 6-inch scale.

For me, the lip seals on this piston were the most difficult to install. (I didn't take a picture because the cuss words don't show up in the frame.) I still don't know if the inner seal starts first or the outer seal. After trying several techniques, I had the best luck with the smallest (.015 piano wire) lip seal tool with very light hand pressure on the piston. Tipping the piston VERY slightly and then working the high side, I worked the outside first, then the inside, then the outside, then the inside, then the outside. I spent about 20 minutes, and then it just popped in. Between failed attempts I pulled the piston out to inspect the seals. No cuts, nicks or errors with this tool.

I should have mentioned this earlier in the build, but before I installed any of the pistons I dropped them in without lip seals to see what the full-in position was (another mystery man tip).

Here's the handy-dandy compressor tool again. I'm using the bar underneath, but I could have just as easily used the full setup that is clamped in the vise. (See earlier picture.) Either I'm getting better with the snap rings or this is the easiest to install of all the piston return springs.

I then stacked up the frictions and steels and measured .042" clearance. (Spec is .040" - .075".)

It was tricky getting the reverse input housing all the way down onto the input drum. Pushing with a pound or two of pressure seemed to cause the last friction to not want to move in relation to the input drum. Very light pressure let things slide into place. As it says in the manual, when the torrington bearing between the two subassemblies rotates with the reverse input housing, you're home.

These two siamesed subassemblies were then put into the case. More fun trying to line up all 3 elements (sun gear, frictions and lugs around the two cases). You just gently spin and rock the siamesed units until (as it says in the manual) the reverse input housing is below the mating surface of the front pump.

The 2-4 band was next. No surprises here. Soak the band for half an hour. Stick the lugged end in, then the end that receives the anchor pin. Stick the anchor pin in while pursuading the band to let it in.

I finished off the night by cleaning the pump face, then finessing the teflon seals into place.

How about this for a resizing tool from the mystery man? It's two bushings held together by a hose clamp! You just stuff the teflon rings under it with a blunt tool and slide it down. I'll let it bake overnight (well, at least sit there), and attack again tomorrow.

DransportGarage · 11-14-2011, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Everything looks good, Congrats on the 3-4 clutch pack, You really did your homework .022 to .035 is spec .029 is perfect, what shape is the reverse input drum in? (the surface the 2-4 band rides on).

7 vs 8 vs 9 frictions on the 3-4 clutches is a never-ending debate, 8 is a good choice. Keep us updated.

Thanks for keeping me under your wing, Clinebarger! (See previous post for the awesome reverse input drum.)

clinebarger · 11-14-2011, 11:52 PM

The band surface looks great

The reverse input piston seal is a PITA. I bought a Kent-Moore tool for that a few years ago that makes it easy.

dicer · 11-16-2011, 04:17 AM

I used a piece of fairly wide metal strapping and a couple of huge hose clamps for the pump alinement. Works good. Did I say I hate those lip seals?

11-09-2011, 11:15 AM	#28
16N67 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Franklin,PA Posts: 29	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Nice color, good luck with the rebuild

11-10-2011, 12:27 AM	#29
DransportGarage Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Lebanon, Ohio Posts: 1,359	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Thanks, 16N67. I started re-assembly today, as promised. I will follow the ATSG Manual for this build. Here are a few rules I set for myself: 1) I assume that every rubber piece (including piston seals) are brittle (or worse) and need to be replaced. 2) I clean all parts, used and new. My usual is to clean them with stoddard solvent to get the worst off, then with spray brake cleaner. (My NAPA store has 16-oz brake cleaner for $1.99). 3) Torque every bolt! The manual has torque specs at the back. This is especially critical on the valve body where over-torquing can cause casting warpage and sticking valves. 4) I select a junk box and throw every replaced part into it as I proceed. Since I had painted the case, I started the day by unmasking, then cleaning the paint from surfaces that would come in contact with o-rings, seals, etc. Then I thoroughly blew off the case (especially passages) again, for the umpteenth time. Since I had removed the case bushing I reinstalled it to start the re-assembly. Then I blew the case out again in case there was a shaving from the bush. Shown is my homemade cam bearing installer sitting on top of the installed bushing. The driver doesn't step down into the bushing, but it doesn't have to on this since it gets installed flush with the case. There are 2 cutouts in the rear of this bush, but their orientation doesn't appear to be important. I put it in the way the original was though. Then the vent tube went in. It's good practice to extend this hose on the outside to keep any escaping fluid from hitting the exhaust (fire hazard). The seal for the selector shaft was next, shown with the shaft here. I had to deburr the shaft for smooth installation. The ATSG Manual tells you to install the selector linkage and parking paul at this time, but if you do you can't get the low-reverse piston in. Hold off on this. The manual said to install the 2-4 servo piston next (temporarily, I assumed), so I set up my Corvette servo per the Transgo instructions in the 700-2&3 kit, then installed it. The purpose of this was to check the 3rd accumulator passage for leakage into the bell housing. All was OK. I removed the servo. Installation of the lo-reverse piston was next. I removed the case from the fixture and set it on end on the floor for a more solid perch. I inserted the piston into the case WITHOUT ITS 3 O-RINGS. This allowed me to see how far down the piston had to go. I then removed the piston, installed the 3 o-rings on the piston and lubed them and the case with "Assemblee Goo". I aligned the notch on the rear of the piston with the slot in the case. Then I used a 2-1/2" ID pipe and hammer to gently drive the piston into the case. I installed the spring assembly and compression tool as shown here. Installation of the snap ring was a bummer because my snap ring pliers are too beefy, but I got it in. Here's a better pic of the homemade install tool for those of you who want to make it. While I'm at it, here's a diagram of the holding fixture. Now's the time to install the selector linkage (and parking paul if you had removed it). Here's the parking paul end. Also shown is the exterior electrical plug that I installed as well. Next was the reaction planetary gear set, shown installed and ready for the clutches and steels, which were placed in the following order: Wavy backing plate Selective (.071" steel) Friction .071" steel Friction .071" steel Friction .071" steel Friction .071" steel Friction The anti-clunk spring went in next. I then disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled the low roller clutch (sprag), making sure the internal race rotated clockwise when installed. I installed the sprag assembly ("lo-reverse support assembly) and large snap ring into the case, but I have a problem. If you look closely at the picture, the anti-clunk spring is not in the pressure plate slot. I'll have to find out what to do about this. That's it for tonight.

11-11-2011, 04:07 AM	#30
dicer Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: seattle, wa Posts: 529	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild I didn't use a fancy spring compressor like that one. So far its the easy stuff. LOL Keep us posted, great write up.

11-12-2011, 10:15 AM	#33
DransportGarage Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Lebanon, Ohio Posts: 1,359	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild I thought I'd do a post on just the installation of the input shaft teflon rings. This was mysterious to me the first time I heard about it. Here's the "installer tool", cut out of a plastic bottle. It's 2-3/4" x 3-3/8", .025" thick. The dimensions aren't very critical. Just be sure the plastic doesn't overlap when it's over the ring area. In this picture I've got 2 rings already installed, and I'm putting the third one on. The resizer is a stator shaft cut off of an old oil pump. It already has a nice internal chamfer cut into the one end. Lube the rings up and take your time coaxing them into the tube. Let the assembly sit until you're ready to install the pump. (If you make the compressor tool shown below, be sure to allow the input shaft to fit into it with this tube in place.)

11-12-2011, 11:48 AM	#34
DransportGarage Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Lebanon, Ohio Posts: 1,359	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Here's the rest of the stuff I did yesterday. After the lo-reverse clutch was air-operated, the reaction sun gear was installed. This is normally installed into the major assembly, but because of Chinese manufacturing, the "beast" sunshell did not fit it as well as the old sunshell did. After a call to the supplier, I drove the sun gear into the "beast". I then stuck the black washer to the bottom of the "beast" with "Assemblee Goo", installed the sub-assembly, followed by the thrust washer, as shown. The input carrier ass'y, support bearing and planetary went in next. The output shaft and snap ring went in next. The trick here is to have an appropriate snap ring pliers. This pic shows my fancy output shaft support, precision cut to about 8-3/4". (Your mileage may vary.) Work on the input clutch housing came next. Here's a pic of the spring compressor. I hung the one part with an old o-ring to give you a good view of the details. One neat feature of this tool is that the upper portion can be swung out of the way when it comes time to put the pistons in. Disassembly was uneventful. Just pay attention to the details. Although this transmission was functioning when removed (so said the previous owner), this shot shows three of the 3-4 clutches that were in the middle of the pack. From left to right, the first has teeth that are about a third the size they should be. The middle clutch has NO TEETH left. The third one is about normal. In general, the friction surfaces were well-worn. On the previous owner's advice I almost installed this trans, but thought better of it. I'm sure glad I decided to rebuild! Here's a shot of the internal gear. It's not as bad as it looks. The profile of the teeth that will drive the new clutches is almost unaffected. After giving the parts a bath I finished off the day by installing the 3-4 clutch piston. You only have to deal with the outer lip seal. I found that my .045" lip seal wire worked best for me. Last edited by DransportGarage; 06-04-2014 at 05:25 AM.

11-12-2011, 12:31 PM	#35
faithblinded Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 21	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Thanks for posting this so thoroughly! I'm watching for a local craigslist 700r4 for my Burb. This will really help once I snag one and get ready to rebuild it. It's alot to learn, but it's hard to put a price on the peace of mind of having done it yourself, and knowing whats in there. Kudos! Ken in Cleveland

11-12-2011, 05:56 PM	#37
faithblinded Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 21	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Wow. This thread deserves sticky status after that, if it didn't already! thanks again! Ken in Cleveland

11-12-2011, 11:00 PM	#39
DransportGarage Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Lebanon, Ohio Posts: 1,359	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Unlike my budget build, here's a link I just found to a high-end no-compromise build by "PeteK" on the Corvette-Guru forum. I wouldn't have added just any build to the info already provided. This guy knows what he's doing, and the 5-part step-by-step is excellent! http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules...=10612&forum=1 Hopefully I'll get away from the honeydew list tomorrow and get back into the garage.

11-13-2011, 01:11 AM	#40
dicer Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: seattle, wa Posts: 529	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild The teflon seals no big deal. Its those stinking lip seals on clutch pistons in that aluminum input clutch deal. I can't stand lip seals. I love to see them do them at the factory. I doesn't look like the kids bothered with the clutch pistons, seals. So do they think they are fixing the problem by not? Last edited by dicer; 11-13-2011 at 01:21 AM.

11-13-2011, 10:17 PM	#42
DransportGarage Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Lebanon, Ohio Posts: 1,359	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild I suppose it's time to report in. It was a good day in the garage. I started off by looking at the Transgo instructions for the spring kit. In that kit they provide an orifice to replace the ball capsule in the output housing, so I removed the 3-4 clutch piston that I had put in yesterday, drove out the capsule and installed the orifice with loctite, per instructions. The piston, because it had been in all night, just slipped back in with a twist. NOTE: Since both the Transgo Kit & the manual said not to re-use the 3-4 load release spring assemblies (a.k.a. 3-4 return springs), I pitched 'em. Moving forward, I installed the o-ring into the input housing groove, then the 3-4 clutch apply ring, which is kinda like a mini-beast. This apply ring is what the 3-4 clutch piston internal lip seal seats on. Rather than just put in the stock 3-4 clutch return spring, I R&R'ed the 22 stock springs with 14 Transgo "white" springs. (You should use all 22 white springs for hi-rev applications, as described in the kit.) Here they are being installed, with the first 6 in place. (One of them may still be in the air. Don't pry on them without having a good grip!) NOTE: If you buy the Transgo 700-2&3 Programming Kit, this "Hi-Rev Spring Pak" (for the 3-4 and overrun clutch) comes in it. The input housing orifice (described earlier in this post) is also in there. The ASTG manual says to install the forward clutch housing, forward clutch piston, and overrun clutch piston, in that order, but I couldn't get the forward clutch piston to go into the housing. (You can't easily reach the lipseal with the tool.) So I cheated. I put the piston in housing first, then put them into the case as a unit. Worked great. Then the overrun clutch piston went in. Modification of the overrun clutch return spring was next. I replace the 14 original springs with 10 of the replacement springs. (Use all 14 replacement springs for hi-rev engines.) Here's the Overrun Clutch Spring Ass'y in place. As you can see in this pic, I've made a 2nd lip seal tool. This smaller one is made from 1/8" copper tubing and .015" piano wire. It's perfect for the ID lip seals! I was really worried about the lip seals, but this last piston went in in less than 3 minutes, and I was really taking my time. I checked the piston actuation via the three holes in the input shaft. No problems. Rebuild of the forward sprag subassembly was next, and I upgraded to the 29-element Borg-Warner. This was simple disassembly/reassembly. Do the check in the manual to make sure it's not installed upside down and you'll have no problem. The two overrun clutch plates and steels went in next. Then I slipped the sprag subassembly in. Here's the sprag subassembly in place. The forward clutch pack was next, and the manual is very clear here. My feeler gauges are flat, so they wouldn't slide past the step in the backing plate. So I picked up a paper clip that would not fit under the snap ring. Then I flat-sanded it on a piece of 320 grit until it did, then miked it. My clearance was .042", so I was nicely tight on the .040"-.063" spec. I'm going to stop this post here, and do the 3-4 clutch pack in the next post since it is a significant modification from stock.

11-13-2011, 11:12 PM	#43
DransportGarage Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Lebanon, Ohio Posts: 1,359	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild And now the infamous 3-4 clutch pack. Even on a stock rebuild, this is by far the most complex part of the manual (so far), with a fair bunch of variation from model to model. As you may recall, I bought the Alto HP Red 9-friction Power Pak, so that adds another layer of "simplicity". For starters, I could not figure out what the "3-4 Clutch Apply Ring" was (brain fart), but I finally determined that it was that "mini-beast" I had installed 2 hours ago. (See previous post.) Alto wanted me to measure it to see which one I had. Well, I stripped the unit back down to the overrun clutch spring assembly, but I just didn't have the fortitude to start pulling out pistons again. Instead, I put it back together, then used Clinebarger's wisdom that the hard parts in this V-6 trans were the same as the V-8 in 1991 (even though Alto was giving me different directions for the "Late V-6"). So I treated it like a V-8. I had a choice between "V-8 regular or heavy duty" and "V-8 performance or race". I chose the former because the apply plate was beefier (even though it would use one less friction). ******** For reference, here are the thicknesses of the components: Orig. snap ring: .092" New snap ring: .062" Orig. steel: .077" New steel (thin): .058" New Steel (thick): .077" Orig. apply plate (stepped): .185" New apply plate: .125" (actually, this is the new backing plate) Orig. backing plate: .188" New backing plate: .125" (new and orig. frictions not measured - didn't care) ****** Guided by the Alto directions for "late V-8 regular or heavy duty", here is my stack-up, with 8 frictions and 8 steels: Orig. snap ring Orig. backing plate New friction New steel (thick) New friction New steel (thin) New friction New steel (thin) New friction New steel (thin) New friction New steel (thin) New friction New steel (thin) New friction New steel (thin) New friction New steel (thin) Orig. Apply Plate (stepped) Orig. 3-4 clutch retainer Clearance is .029". ******** Here's the 3-4 apply plate in place (step is on top). ...and here's a pic of the 2nd Kolene steel in place. I noticed that the teeth can go in two different ways. I couldn't find a picture, but put them in this way to minimize rotation. That's it for tonight. Things appear to be wonderful. Anyone see any problems with all this?

11-14-2011, 08:45 AM	#44
16N67 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Franklin,PA Posts: 29	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Looks good, you will be wanting to do another one.

11-14-2011, 11:42 PM	#46
clinebarger Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 6,370	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Everything looks good, Congrats on the 3-4 clutch pack, You really did your homework .022 to .035 is spec .029 is perfect, what shape is the reverse input drum in? (the surface the 2-4 band rides on). 7 vs 8 vs 9 frictions on the 3-4 clutches is a never-ending debate, 8 is a good choice. Keep us updated.

11-14-2011, 11:42 PM	#47
DransportGarage Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Lebanon, Ohio Posts: 1,359	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild Having completed the input drum assembly yesterday, the day started off with the disassembly and cleanup of the Reverse Input Housing. The ATSG manual suggested that the hole in the reverse input piston is too big. The next 2 pictures show the plugging of the original and drilling of the new one. The text is hard to read, and I'm too tired to redo it. The hole on the left is the original hole that has been plugged from behind with a set screw. (Some kits provide a pre-drilled orifice cup plug, but I used a set screw. If you use this, you don't have to drill the new hole on the right.) The hole on the right is the new 1/16" hole. The manual doesn't tell you what size to drill, but the ATSG video Part 3 does (right at the beginning of the video). Here's the flipside showing the #10-32 set screw on the left. The hole on the right looks big, but it doesn't go all the way through at that diameter. As you can see, this is a really nice housing. I dressed the band surface with 400 grit paper followed by 600 grit. If there's a thousandth deviation I couldn't detect it with my 6-inch scale. For me, the lip seals on this piston were the most difficult to install. (I didn't take a picture because the cuss words don't show up in the frame.) I still don't know if the inner seal starts first or the outer seal. After trying several techniques, I had the best luck with the smallest (.015 piano wire) lip seal tool with very light hand pressure on the piston. Tipping the piston VERY slightly and then working the high side, I worked the outside first, then the inside, then the outside, then the inside, then the outside. I spent about 20 minutes, and then it just popped in. Between failed attempts I pulled the piston out to inspect the seals. No cuts, nicks or errors with this tool. I should have mentioned this earlier in the build, but before I installed any of the pistons I dropped them in without lip seals to see what the full-in position was (another mystery man tip). Here's the handy-dandy compressor tool again. I'm using the bar underneath, but I could have just as easily used the full setup that is clamped in the vise. (See earlier picture.) Either I'm getting better with the snap rings or this is the easiest to install of all the piston return springs. I then stacked up the frictions and steels and measured .042" clearance. (Spec is .040" - .075".) It was tricky getting the reverse input housing all the way down onto the input drum. Pushing with a pound or two of pressure seemed to cause the last friction to not want to move in relation to the input drum. Very light pressure let things slide into place. As it says in the manual, when the torrington bearing between the two subassemblies rotates with the reverse input housing, you're home. These two siamesed subassemblies were then put into the case. More fun trying to line up all 3 elements (sun gear, frictions and lugs around the two cases). You just gently spin and rock the siamesed units until (as it says in the manual) the reverse input housing is below the mating surface of the front pump. The 2-4 band was next. No surprises here. Soak the band for half an hour. Stick the lugged end in, then the end that receives the anchor pin. Stick the anchor pin in while pursuading the band to let it in. I finished off the night by cleaning the pump face, then finessing the teflon seals into place. How about this for a resizing tool from the mystery man? It's two bushings held together by a hose clamp! You just stuff the teflon rings under it with a blunt tool and slide it down. I'll let it bake overnight (well, at least sit there), and attack again tomorrow. Last edited by DransportGarage; 11-14-2011 at 11:49 PM.

11-14-2011, 11:52 PM	#49
clinebarger Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 6,370	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild The band surface looks great The reverse input piston seal is a PITA. I bought a Kent-Moore tool for that a few years ago that makes it easy.



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11-16-2011, 04:17 AM	#50
dicer Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: seattle, wa Posts: 529	Re: 4L60 (700R4) DIY Rebuild I used a piece of fairly wide metal strapping and a couple of huge hose clamps for the pump alinement. Works good. Did I say I hate those lip seals?

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