Wierd Turn Signal Issue

[jrthe1]

So, I had a mechanic mount my ebrake handle I sourced from Aspen Auto run new front and middle cables. Wonderful. My emergency brake works.

I am now blowing turn signal fuses. The fuse does not blow with the ignition switch turned on or even with the engine running at idle when using the turn signals (either side). However if I go for a ride and the voltage meter approaches 13 volts on my under dash voltage meter, the fuse snaps. But only intermittently. Sometimes it will work normally for a few days. Also, the fuse blows whether or not I use the turn signal. When I uses the turn signal and it works, the voltage meter jumps from positive to negative.

I disconnected a wire clip that joined wires from the steering column to the fuse block and it still blows the fuse. The whole truck has been re wired by PO and has a EZ? wiring fuse panel.

Could the alternator be putting out too many amps? I don't see a voltage regulator anywhere. Is it internal to the alternator? I dunno. I'm not too good with electrical issues.

Please help.

[jchav62]

Check under the column and see if there are any bare wires near the new cable. It's weird that it started happening after that work was done.

[forestb]

could he have pinched a wire when bolting down the ebrake handle?

[damnyankee36]

A few clarifications please. Voltmeter "approaches" 13 volts: It's normally higher then goes down?

"voltage meter jumps from positive to negative": Doesn't make sense. Could you have an ammeter instead?

At any rate, people love to blame mechanics on problems after work was done, but I agree with the other guys; I think there is a bare/pinched wire that is intermittently grounding out. Look at the semi-circular connector under the steering column and trace all the wires. I'd be willing to bet it's in that area.

[jrthe1]

damnyankee36- I should have said voltmeter needle goes left and right in cadence with the turn signal. It shows a voltage drop by about 1 volt in cadence with the turn signal cycling.

I checked the wiring and nothing pinched or bare. There are only 3 bolts holding the ebrake handle and the install is simple. I don't believe the mechanic is to blame.

Again "The fuse does not blow with the ignition switch turned on or even with the engine running at idle when using the turn signals (either side). However if I go for a ride and the voltage meter approaches 13 volts on my under dash voltage meter, the fuse snaps. But only intermittently. Sometimes it will work normally for a few days. Also, the fuse blows whether or not I use the turn signal." "I disconnected a wire clip that joined wires from the steering column to the fuse block and it still blows the fuse."

[damnyankee36]

Hmmm. OK, that helps. An intermittent problem is gonna be a bear unless you can actually see something amiss.

When you say "disconnected a wire clip", are you be describing that connector I mentioned? It might come down to disconnecting additional parts of the circuit to isolate this bugger.

[damnyankee36]

If you are talking about the same connector I am then the short has to be between that and the fuse box. Try removing the turn signal flasher. That will further isolate the problem.

[jrthe1]

Originally Posted by damnyankee36

If you are talking about the same connector I am then the short has to be between that and the fuse box. Try removing the turn signal flasher. That will further isolate the problem.

The connector joins wires from the steering column to the fuse box. The fuse blows even when not using the turn signals. What would removing the flasher do? Why couldn't the short be from the fuse box to the signals? Not trying to be defensive. Just trying to figure this out. ;-)
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[damnyankee36]

I think it will help you narrow down the location of the short. The path from the fuse to the flasher is behind the fuse box. If the fuse blows with the flasher removed then the short could be somewhere between the fuse and input side of the flasher. If it doesn't blow then the short could be between the output side of the flasher to the steering column connector. Since you said the fuse blows even if the steering column connector is disconnected, that eliminates the rest of the circuit back to the lights.

BTW, does the EZ kit have the new fuse box attached to a sheet metal plate that is then attached to the firewall like AAW's kit does? I wonder if a screw has penetrated a wire's insulation...

[jrthe1]

OK that makes sense. Thanks! I will unplug the flasher and go for a test drive. It may be a few days before I get back to you as it's been raining non stop and the "social director" has us running around all over the place this week end.

I put the steering wheel connector back together and taped it up. Should I unplug that connector again? As you remember, with it unplugged, it still blew the fuse.

[damnyankee36]

I'd leave it plugged in since it appears the short is before it and you will want your brake lights and turn signals working, at least while the fuse is holding!

[jrthe1]

Will do. BTW my brake lights work with or without the fuse.

[damnyankee36]

Right, the brake light circuit has its own fuse but both the turn signals and brake lights go through that connector.

[jrthe1]

So, went for a ride this morning without the flasher plugged in. The fuse did not blow. Put the flasher back in and the fuse blew after driving only a few blocks. Now what???

Thanks.

[damnyankee36]

Then it's somewhere between the steering column connector and the fuse. Try removing the two screws holding the fuse box to the firewall, (or the fuse box mount bracket). See what's going on behind there. I'm betting a pinched wire, possibly by the two long mounting screws.

[jrthe1]

It would logically have to be a short somewhere between the fuse block and the steering wheel connector. Luckily, I discovered that EZ Wiring has tech support so I called their number, talked to Shawn, and he said it had to be the purple wire between the fuse block and connector. He said the purple wire was scuffed or frayed and was shorting out. But then I said to myself there was nothing to ground to as the inner fire wall was a fiber based material.

Anyway, armed with my best tactical flash light, I traced the path of the purple wire. BTW all the wires are labeled every 6" or so. The purple wire was labeled turn signal flasher.

About 6-8" from the fuse block, there was a tiny little scuff in the insulation exposing the copper wire. I have a 4 speed. When the clutch was fully depressed it was digging into the purple wire. I pushed the wire loom back a bit and taped the sh*t out of it. Reloaded a new 15 amp fuse and went for a good long ride.

I came back grinning. The fuse never blew. I think my problem is solved!!!

Thanks damnyankee36 and others on this forum and Shawn from EZ Wiring for your help.

[damnyankee36]

Yeah baby!!