Engine Locked Up - Complete Oil Loss in Less Than a Mile

[69_hafton]

I wasn't planning on replacing the engine for awhile, it was running strong I thought, but I don't know it's history other than the engine was painted black for a quick sale. I did see a little white smoke from the exhaust at idle a few weeks ago, and thought maybe I had some coolant getting in one of the cylinders on the passenger side, but didn't see it as being urgent then.

Had the truck just over a year - 71 4x4 K10 with a 350 4 bbl. and auto - Cheyenne which has had a good deal of body work done to make it a good looking 10 footer looker I guess. I don't want to have a show truck, but it has to be reliable.

3 days ago, I was driving and the truck started smoking from under the hood and started bogging down. I shifted to neutral, and coasted to the safest place I could on the highway, and when I shifted, the engine stalled. There oil all over the right side under the truck, and I can't tell where it pushed out from, but there's nothing on the dipstick. The engine won't turn over, and I can't get on it good enough that I can turn it by hand either. I don't know if this engine is original to the truck, but I would suspect not. At any rate, I'm really thinking about just buying a crate engine for simplicity, maybe a painless harness while I'm doing this all, but I'd like to know what happened also. Never had anything like this happen before, and I have to suspect the oil came from the front of the engine, maybe a bolt hole, a seal or something obvious, I'm just not seeing it.

Any way, just looking for advice and someone to listen to me play the violin

[cdowns]

theres a bolt hole on the right side front engine near the fuel pump if the bolt works its way out you can lose the oil and then the engine goes like you said

[geezer#99]

Do you have a pic of the motor before the melt down?

[garyd1961]

If the motor is seized up I would suggest a GM crate engine. If you do decide on a crate engine I suggest you look at the GM vortec 350 part # 12530283. It is hard to beat what you get with this engine for the money.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

If the motor is seized up I would suggest a GM crate engine. If you do decide on a crate engine I suggest you look at the GM vortec 350 part # 12530283. It is hard to beat what you get with this engine for the money.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283

That's exactly what I was going to say. that vortec crate is what I'm getting ready to put in a buddies 69 c-10.

[jocko]

any issues with replacing a 2-piece rear main seal motor with a 1-piece, other than it won't leak anymore? Non I can think of, but have never done it. I despise the vortec valve covers, but this is a good motor. Could always use the spacers to allow original valve covers, but also double the leak potential (if the valve covers bother you like they do me). Anyway, I've gotta do this eventually too and am a bit torn between 1-piece and 2-piece rear main seals. No pun intended. There are 2 summit options for the 2-piece seal engine, a 195 and a 290 hp version that have the original style valve covers (I thought there used to be a 260 hp version??). Most folks seem to have been happy with those motors too. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...7353/overview/ and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...9529/overview/ (note the 2nd is more expensive than the vortec though)

Sorry to hear about your engine lunching itself, that sucks. Any gauge indications noted leading up to the incident? I've chasing an oil pressure indication problem right now and it's driving me nuts (newer truck).

[69_hafton]

Originally Posted by cdowns

theres a bolt hole on the right side front engine near the fuel pump if the bolt works its way out you can lose the oil and then the engine goes like you said

Probably like this one

[69_hafton]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Do you have a pic of the motor before the melt down?

I don't have a current picture, but looks about the same now except I had the AC fixed this spring. I know the carburator isn't correct for the truck after going after the AC because there's no place to mount a idle speed accelerator switch for when kick on the AC, so that's been on my to-do list, but the carb worked great otherwise.

[geezer#99]

Do/did you have a working pcv system?

[69_hafton]

Originally Posted by jocko

any issues with replacing a 2-piece rear main seal motor with a 1-piece, other than it won't leak anymore? Non I can think of, but have never done it. I despise the vortec valve covers, but this is a good motor. Could always use the spacers to allow original valve covers, but also double the leak potential (if the valve covers bother you like they do me). Anyway, I've gotta do this eventually too and am a bit torn between 1-piece and 2-piece rear main seals. No pun intended. There are 2 summit options for the 2-piece seal engine, a 195 and a 290 hp version that have the original style valve covers (I thought there used to be a 260 hp version??). Most folks seem to have been happy with those motors too. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...7353/overview/ and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...9529/overview/ (note the 2nd is more expensive than the vortec though)

Sorry to hear about your engine lunching itself, that sucks. Any gauge indications noted leading up to the incident? I've chasing an oil pressure indication problem right now and it's driving me nuts (newer truck).

Thanks, I've read somewhere about the 1 piece seal being preferred, but reading summit's website leaves me with a lot of questions especially when they contradict themselves about not being for a 1/2 ton, and then in the next paragraph say it's good for a worn out 1/2 ton. Using a newer engine design looks to be more of a challenge though, I gather that much.

[69_hafton]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Do/did you have a working pcv system?

I believe it was working ok, when I opened the hood, the driver's side pcv was pushed out a little, but there wasn't oil on the hood at all

[geezer#99]

It takes crankcase pressure to push out all that oil. It usually doesn't blow out the valve cover. Sometimes it will blow out the dipstick. It'll rarely coat the hood.
I'd suspect your pcv valve was popped out enough to not be working, you built a lot of crankcase pressure and the oil went out the weakest gasket (or several of them).

[100%Chevy]

"Complete oil loss in less than a mile"
Tells me something major happened!Only oil pressure will blow that much oil in less than a mile except for a hole in the oilpan or the oil filter is busted!
Do you have an oil pressure guage?If so,did the line come loose at the intake?(It's behind the dist on the drivers side)
Do you see any holes in the block down low?
Will the starter turn the engine?
I'm really curious as to how this happened!
Mike.

[TwoFiftyShifter]

I think the 1pc rear main isn't as big of an issue as needing to rig a new fuel pump. But, roller cams have a few great advantages.

If you want to stay 2 piece and want some extra bounce up top, this is a good bet.


http://paceperformance.com/i-6237688...no-intake.html

[69_hafton]

Originally Posted by 100%Chevy

"Complete oil loss in less than a mile"
Tells me something major happened!Only oil pressure will blow that much oil in less than a mile except for a hole in the oilpan or the oil filter is busted!
Do you have an oil pressure guage?If so,did the line come loose at the intake?(It's behind the dist on the drivers side)
Do you see any holes in the block down low?
Will the starter turn the engine?
I'm really curious as to how this happened!
Mike.

My cluster is a "cluster" to put it lightly. The tach doesn't work, the MPH are off, and every reading on it was suspect. The temp looked good though and I don't even recall it the oil pressure is hooked up to anything and reading when this happened. I've been keeping the driving to a minimum until I could get a look at it, as the gauge cluster is one of the few things that I haven't removed yet. So, I definitely could have been more careful... I guess I need to look for an oil pressure gauge connection - I assumed it was electronic. My previous truck, the small plastic pressure line that ran into the cab to the aftermarket oil pressure gauge popped out of the gauge and put nearly a pint on the floor before I shut it down, so it is a possibility.

I did confirm that the oil filter is ok, and I haven't found any holes anywhere unexpected. The bolt hole by the fuel pump is really in the vicinity of where I suspect the oil originated from, based on what is covered with oil from there on back. The starter won't budge the engine at this point...

[57taskforce]

For the vortec crate motor It don't matter for your application whether you've got a 1/2 or 3/4 ton. It's a small block and it will bolt in. Electric fuel pump is a must as mentioned above as there's no provision for a mechanical but that's not a huge deal.

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

If the motor is seized up I would suggest a GM crate engine. If you do decide on a crate engine I suggest you look at the GM vortec 350 part # 12530283. It is hard to beat what you get with this engine for the money.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283

1000 % agree , for the money this thing is awesome , you will have to change your flexplate to a weighted one . and you will need a intake manifold . not 100% sure that it takes a mechanical fuel pump

[69_hafton]

Originally Posted by 67 chevelle

1000 % agree , for the money this thing is awesome , you will have to change your flexplate to a weighted one . and you will need a intake manifold . not 100% sure that it takes a mechanical fuel pump

taking notes; probably will do this months from now at this point, but in the mean time, I plan on pulling my engine and at least have that done.

[scooterpimp]

Check your local chevy dealership on availability of goodwrench engines , not expensive ,warranty & no freight charges.

[garyd1961]

Originally Posted by jocko

any issues with replacing a 2-piece rear main seal motor with a 1-piece, other than it won't leak anymore? Non I can think of, but have never done it. I despise the vortec valve covers, but this is a good motor. Could always use the spacers to allow original valve covers, but also double the leak potential (if the valve covers bother you like they do me). Anyway, I've gotta do this eventually too and am a bit torn between 1-piece and 2-piece rear main seals. No pun intended. There are 2 summit options for the 2-piece seal engine, a 195 and a 290 hp version that have the original style valve covers (I thought there used to be a 260 hp version??). Most folks seem to have been happy with those motors too. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...7353/overview/ and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...9529/overview/ (note the 2nd is more expensive than the vortec though)

Sorry to hear about your engine lunching itself, that sucks. Any gauge indications noted leading up to the incident? I've chasing an oil pressure indication problem right now and it's driving me nuts (newer truck).

Two things that will always leak on a SBC sooner or latter is a two piece seal and old style valve covers. The center bolt valve covers are way better than the old style.The vortec heads add 30 to 40 hp with better fuel mileage than the old smog heads that are on the 290 hp motor. You will actually have more hp with the vortec engine, 300+ with a four barrel and headers.
You have to run an electric fuel pump, vortec intake and weighted flexplate that fits the one piece rear main seal crank. Most cars on the road today have an electric fuel pump so it's not a big thing to me. I run the Summit brand intake which was around $150 and I believe I gave around $80 for my flexplate but you can get one cheaper.
You get a lot for your money though, vortec heads, hydraulic roller cam, 9.4:1 compression, balancer,not to mention it's a brand new motor not a rebuild.

[Robznob11]

I had that happen one time.....i broke a spring, dropped a valve through piston top and all oil went out exaust. Looked like you were pouring out of a bottle

[69_hafton]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

Two things that will always leak on a SBC sooner or latter is a two piece seal and old style valve covers. The center bolt valve covers are way better than the old style.The vortec heads add 30 to 40 hp with better fuel mileage than the old smog heads that are on the 290 hp motor. You will actually have more hp with the vortec engine, 300+ with a four barrel and headers.
You have to run an electric fuel pump, vortec intake and weighted flexplate that fits the one piece rear main seal crank. Most cars on the road today have an electric fuel pump so it's not a big thing to me. I run the Summit brand intake which was around $150 and I believe I gave around $80 for my flexplate but you can get one cheaper.
You get a lot for your money though, vortec heads, hydraulic roller cam, 9.4:1 compression, balancer,not to mention it's a brand new motor not a rebuild.

I have a pair of vortec heads and valve covers my neighbor gave me, I don't remember if there was anything wrong with them at this point. I'm thinking they were okay and that it was a piston/block issue but I may need to check the valves. Definitely give me some things to start looking at.

Looks like I posted in the wrong forum, I don't know where it ended up because I thought I posted in general discussion. Oops! Sorrry...