Lower ball joint removal and installation - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

flyfsh247 · 08-26-2002, 01:42 PM

Im installing a set of 2-1/2" drop spindles on my 71' 2wd Chevy pickup, and im going to install a front end rebuild kit while im at it. I need some help in removing and installing the lower ball joint. What do i need to do for the removal, It looks as if its pressed in. Also once its removed what needs to be done to install the new one. Thanks

**MikeB** · 08-26-2002, 05:03 PM

You can buy a ball joint press to do it on the truck, or take the control arms to most any auto parts store and have them pressed out and in with a big shop press. Harbor Freight Tools has a lot of junk, but their ball joint press is very good quality for only $39.99. I've used mine several times with no problems.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
While you're doing all this, you may want to check your control arm shafts for play. Also, I speak from experience when I say buy name-brand Amercian suspension and steering parts like Moog. You'll regret it if you don't.

Benrs86 · 08-30-2002, 11:42 PM

hey, i am in the middle of doing this, almost done actually. to get hte ball joints out of the aframe just get a big hammer and they come out, then to put hte new ones in you will need to press them in, like with a arbor press, you might* even be able to get it with a table vise. i got moog control arms. they are simple to put in. oh and to get the ball joints out, make sure you have a jack under the aframe, so it doesnt fly down, but take the steering handle deal, like a "c" shaped peice of steel off the spindle (two nuts that take 3/4 inch wrenches) then use your fork tool thing. if you leave the steering piece on then the fork will angle up and you will bend it (i did it). good luck, and if you have any questions i might be able to help as i just did this. good luck, Ben

**COBALT** · 09-03-2002, 04:43 PM

I just finished getting my upper and lower ball joints out yesterday. I ended up doing it the same way Benrs86 did, because that lower ball joint was NOT going to come out with the spring in place. No way.

I put the jack under the control arm assemblies, and gave it a little pressure. Then I unbolted the U-bolts and took them out (don't just assume they'll come out with the assembly!!! They may hang up.). Then I slowly let the jack down, and the springs just fell out.

That takes some of the pressure off the ball joint. After that I just stuck the pickle fork in the lower joint, and two-handed the 5lb hammer to get it to separate! In the more extreme cases you might have to heat up the spindle with the ole propane torch. I had to with the uppers...

I'm not going to deal with getting the actual joints out of the control arms until a week from now.

Benrs86 · 09-03-2002, 05:45 PM

new69owner. i was afraid that the balljoints would be all tight in the a-frame, but all i did was put a 4 by 6 under the aframe and got a 5 pound sledge with the 3 foot handle, and 2 hits later it was out. good luck, Ben

**COBALT** · 09-05-2002, 04:58 PM

Benrs86: Cool. That makes me feel a little better. I have a service kit that should help getting the new ones pressed in, but getting the old ones out.....

Say, are you going to do any special stuff to your control arms, springs, or spindles? I'm going to clean them up real good, but I'm seriously tempted to have them blasted and coated. Just a thought.........

Later,

Benrs86 · 09-05-2002, 05:41 PM

yeah, i wirewheeled them good and painted the frames, the control arm shafts, the springs, and my drums(you can kinda see them through the wheel) with some tough black stuff.

08-26-2002, 01:42 PM	#1
flyfsh247 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 3	Lower ball joint removal and installation Im installing a set of 2-1/2" drop spindles on my 71' 2wd Chevy pickup, and im going to install a front end rebuild kit while im at it. I need some help in removing and installing the lower ball joint. What do i need to do for the removal, It looks as if its pressed in. Also once its removed what needs to be done to install the new one. Thanks

08-26-2002, 05:03 PM	#2
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,406	You can buy a ball joint press to do it on the truck, or take the control arms to most any auto parts store and have them pressed out and in with a big shop press. Harbor Freight Tools has a lot of junk, but their ball joint press is very good quality for only $39.99. I've used mine several times with no problems. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335 While you're doing all this, you may want to check your control arm shafts for play. Also, I speak from experience when I say buy name-brand Amercian suspension and steering parts like Moog. You'll regret it if you don't. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

08-30-2002, 11:42 PM	#3
Benrs86 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Brandon, SD, USA Posts: 1,292	hey, i am in the middle of doing this, almost done actually. to get hte ball joints out of the aframe just get a big hammer and they come out, then to put hte new ones in you will need to press them in, like with a arbor press, you might* even be able to get it with a table vise. i got moog control arms. they are simple to put in. oh and to get the ball joints out, make sure you have a jack under the aframe, so it doesnt fly down, but take the steering handle deal, like a "c" shaped peice of steel off the spindle (two nuts that take 3/4 inch wrenches) then use your fork tool thing. if you leave the steering piece on then the fork will angle up and you will bend it (i did it). good luck, and if you have any questions i might be able to help as i just did this. good luck, Ben __________________ Brandon, SD 69 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd wide long bed with wood 3 on the tree 350 engine 4 bolt main rv cam AIM = Alphray04

09-03-2002, 04:43 PM	#4
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I just finished getting my upper and lower ball joints out yesterday. I ended up doing it the same way Benrs86 did, because that lower ball joint was NOT going to come out with the spring in place. No way. I put the jack under the control arm assemblies, and gave it a little pressure. Then I unbolted the U-bolts and took them out (don't just assume they'll come out with the assembly!!! They may hang up.). Then I slowly let the jack down, and the springs just fell out. That takes some of the pressure off the ball joint. After that I just stuck the pickle fork in the lower joint, and two-handed the 5lb hammer to get it to separate! In the more extreme cases you might have to heat up the spindle with the ole propane torch. I had to with the uppers... I'm not going to deal with getting the actual joints out of the control arms until a week from now. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-03-2002, 05:45 PM	#5
Benrs86 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Brandon, SD, USA Posts: 1,292	new69owner. i was afraid that the balljoints would be all tight in the a-frame, but all i did was put a 4 by 6 under the aframe and got a 5 pound sledge with the 3 foot handle, and 2 hits later it was out. good luck, Ben __________________ Brandon, SD 69 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd wide long bed with wood 3 on the tree 350 engine 4 bolt main rv cam AIM = Alphray04

09-05-2002, 04:58 PM	#6
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Benrs86: Cool. That makes me feel a little better. I have a service kit that should help getting the new ones pressed in, but getting the old ones out..... Say, are you going to do any special stuff to your control arms, springs, or spindles? I'm going to clean them up real good, but I'm seriously tempted to have them blasted and coated. Just a thought......... Later, __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-05-2002, 05:41 PM	#7
Benrs86 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Brandon, SD, USA Posts: 1,292	yeah, i wirewheeled them good and painted the frames, the control arm shafts, the springs, and my drums(you can kinda see them through the wheel) with some tough black stuff. __________________ Brandon, SD 69 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd wide long bed with wood 3 on the tree 350 engine 4 bolt main rv cam AIM = Alphray04

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