Rut Row, that doesn't look good!

[Voodoo556]

So the PO of the '70 k20 I picked up last weekend had told me it had a starter issue. He said it needed to be shimmed. Well, it needs to be shimmed alright lol.



There is a chunk of the engine block casting that is missing. I'm assuming it is possible that was caused from him over tightening the bolts. Maybe with an impact or a 3ft cheater bar!
The bolt still tightens but I'm struggling to get the starter dialed in/lined up so it does not bind, screech or drag. I definitely do not want this to be an on going problem.
I'm thinking I might be able to get her shimmed correctly, add a rear support brace to block and then add some blue never seize.

So, what to do.
Options:
Attempt to shim and never seize.
Yank the motor and attempt to "fix"
Yank motor and replace with another short block or complete motor
Yank and replace with big block

Any thoughts fellas?
Thanks

[The Chainsaw]

Small broken piece? Definitely replace with the big block






Not making fun, it's what I would do. Although I might have a problem.

[Voodoo556]

Originally Posted by The Chainsaw

Small broken piece? Definitely replace with the big block






Not making fun, it's what I would do. Although I might have a problem.

Yeah there is a small piece that is broken off, not just a crack.
Simplest would be to toss another small block in but damn, I'm torn.....fighting the demons of a big block.

[dazza]

he must have had one of his 'chiks' torque'n on that thing!

[Voodoo556]

Originally Posted by dazza

he must have had one of his 'chiks' torque'n on that thing!

Well odds are it was probably a purdy dang healthy gal!

[MARKDTN]

Could you use a mini-starter and the other set of holes?

[Voodoo556]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Could you use a mini-starter and the other set of holes?

I bought a high torque mini starter but it uses the same hole as the Orig starter

[michael bustamante]

yup id find the starter brace and never seize too til i found a built up 454!!

[Voodoo556]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

yup id find the starter brace and never seize too til i found a built up 454!!

I think that's a good choice. I don't really want to yank the motor just because of the starter and the chunk out of the casting. I'd like to fix it and then I can start a build on a bb or a nice sb.

[trac209]

I had this happen long ago and I fixed it by jb welding a stud it there and using a nut to tighten starter

[Mike C]

Yup, try and drill hole deeper and tap for a stud. Locktight in there and pray.

[El Dorado Jim]

I would go with the stud and jb weld fix if it was me

[72ironmike]

Can the block be ground even to allow room for a very thick washer or sleeve ?

[dazza]

just always park on hill and keep one of the po's chiks in the back... bump starts made easy...

but better yet, you could try one of these... adapter

[Voodoo556]

Originally Posted by dazza

just always park on hill and keep one of the po's chiks in the back... bump starts made easy...

but better yet, you could try one of these... adapter

I was looking at this adapter this afternoon, I think that's the ticket right there. Done, problem solved.

[57taskforce]

I'd bet on that starter bolt backing out a bit first then somebody cranked it over with the bolt loose and broke the block and probably the bolt too. I've seen it happen before. As for fixing it, either the adapter or stud would probably work pretty good.

[hamjet]

Is the adapter for 153 or 168 tooth flywheel? or either. whats yours?

[bill3rail]

Originally Posted by trac209

I had this happen long ago and I fixed it by jb welding a stud it there and using a nut to tighten starter

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

I would go with the stud and jb weld fix if it was me

Sounds amazingly simple, and I would do it if needed.

Bill

[72kool]

with it broken like that, the only option i see is a big block. sorry to deliver you this terrible news.

[Cajun]

I had this same problem on my drag car motor. Since I already had the SBC parts replacing with a BBC just wasn't in the budget. I was able to find a machine shop who was the only one in the city that had the right material to match the block composition. I did have to pull the motor and strip it down for him since he put the block in a jig and added new material to the broken tab and filled it in completely and then drilled and tapped the hole for the bolt. This was a 14.1 compression motor with a mini gear reduction starter. Never had a problem for the 10 years I had it. Of course the BBC would have been nice too.

[Jason Banks]

I also had this happen to a 350...I had someone come out and use some special welding rods for cast iron and weld some material on that I then tapped out for a bolt.


It was a major pain...but the guy welded it with the engine still installed.

A few months after it was fixed the motor self destructed....so I don't know how well it worked long term.

I like the JB weld and a stud idea!

[MARKDTN]

I would be careful of a stud. There is a reason that the starter bolts are knurled as they are. If you don't use correct bolts it can get misaligned. Studs may cause the same issue. On a standard trans, can't you use a 6cyl bellhousing and put the starter on the bellhousing instead of the block?

[zeldman]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

I would be careful of a stud. There is a reason that the starter bolts are knurled as they are. If you don't use correct bolts it can get misaligned. Studs may cause the same issue. On a standard trans, can't you use a 6cyl bellhousing and put the starter on the bellhousing instead of the block?

Very true.

[Voodoo556]

I am leaning towards going with the bell housing mounted starter.
Seems to be the most solid, although it involves pulling the motor and trans apart, long term solution.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...lock_is_broken