4wd dash switch conversion

[mikesacs]

I'm looking for information on transfer cases that use the dash switch. Models out there and pros/cons of converting to one behind a TH700. This will just be used for daily driving, not off roading.

[Yukon 400]

I'll be working something similar soon, a NP261 behind an Allison. It seems that if you want to go with an electric shift the ones in the 90's era would be much easier to wire up.

[mikesacs]

Does the NP261 need a computer control? I noticed that it has a 6 pin connector.

[DirtyLarry]

You don’t have to be crazy to convert an old truck to electric shift but it would help. Electric shift is the most unreliable system on today’s trucks. The last thing would recommend is adding it to an old truck.

It is not just a matter of installing an electric shift transfercase and adding a switch on the dash. The system requires a transfercase control module (TCCM) that will need inputs from the park neutral switch and speed sensors to work properly as well as about 5 lbs of harness. A replacement TCCM is over $500 and the encoder motor on the side of the transfer case is around $200 though a dealer. Both fail often so the last thing would recommend is adding it to an old truck that already has the dead reliable lever.

You are so much better off using an older manual shift NP241 transfer case behind the 700R4.

Electric shift suuuckkksss!

Yukon 400, a NVG 261 is a manual shift. The electric version of that tcase is a NVG 263.

[Prerunner1982]

My wife's S-10 Blazer had an NP/NVG 231C with electric engage. The only problem I had was that it would not always engage when it was cold, but I believe it was the front axle disconnect that was causing the problem.

I have an NP231J manual shift in my Jeep Cherokee and they seem to be a strong t-case.

I prefer the manual shift over the electric shift as well... that way I know it is engaged and there is less to go wrong... but then again I also don't like power windows, power locks, power seats... etc.

[mikesacs]

I've been looking at this due to my experience. I currently have a 96 4wd with a dash switch and find it awsome that If the road gets slick while driving I can just push the switch and like magic I'm in 4wd. I've had that truck for 190,000 miles without a tcase problem. My older experiances with 4wd was lock the hubs yank on the manual selector, possibly drive in reverse a few feet, then it will shift in place. None of this would have taken place without me stopping to engage it. So, I guess it is a convienence that I'm after.

I do understand that the manuals are inherently more reliable/durable, but I'm towing a trailer, not a weight sled on a dirt track.

Just after the classic look of a 63 Chevy that drives like a 90s.

It might not be possible to do, but i'd like to learn about it.

Thanks for any input!

[DirtyLarry]

Even if you go through the hassle of adding the electric transfer case you will still need to lock the hubs manually, or find a set of the old auto locking hubs from the late 80’s, which are getting hard to find as they weren’t very reliable and most got canned for manual hubs. Auto locking hubs were about as reliable as a glass anvil. Add an electric shift tcase to auto locking hubs and you might as well not even have a 4x4.

[snowblind]

Originally Posted by mikesacs

I currently have a 96 4wd with a dash switch and find it awsome that If the road gets slick while driving I can just push the switch and like magic I'm in 4wd.

Lock you hubs when you leave the house or when you get "near" to the area you will need 4wd. From that point on you can shift in and out of 2/4wd at will and and at pretty much any speed. I do it regularly at 30mph and it's slick as butter.

Freewheeling hubs are great for cruising the highways in the summer but they are not required. There is minimal downside to driving with locked hubs in 2wd. Sure there is a bit of drag but if the road conditions are bad enough that you may need 4wd at any time then you probably shouldn't be driving that fast.