Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Ok guys, I appreciate your patience.

I was able to get the truck on the lift this morning and take a few measurements so you can compare and contrast the fitment of a rear mounted blazer tank. Since I don't have a tank here to measure from the mounting points, I took a few measurements to give you a very basic idea of where our components sit in the truck.

Measurements were taken from the rear frame brace as well as the lip of the bed floor under the tailgate. I apologize for the "paintbrush" editing, I don't have any access to kickass photo shop programs so I am working with what I got.

-Starting off, the pink line is a measurement in between the brackets on the bridge. This measurement is 26in.

-The red line is from bottom lip of the rear frame brace to the diff cover. Our rear differential is a factory 10 bolt with a factory stamped cover. This measurement is 24.75 inches.

-The orange line is from the lip of the bed floor to the upper tube on the bridge mount. This measurement is 29 inches.

-The yellow line is a measurement from the lip of the bed floor to the pan hard bar. This measurement is 31 inches.

-The blue line is from the lip of the bed floor to the diff cover. This measurement is 33 inches.

-The black line is from the bottom lip of the rear frame brace to the pan hard bar. This measurement is 22.5 inches.

-The green line is the measurement from the bed floor lip to the sway bar mounting bracket. This measurement is 28 inches.

-The white line is from the diff cover to the outside of the cross member. This measurement is 4 inches.

-The bright pink line is from the diff cover to the outside of the pan hard bar. This measurement is 2.75 inches.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Guys, here is a list of FAQs. If you have any other questions, feel free to post them here and I will do my best to answer.

73-87 C10 Chevy truck coil-over system

1. Do I need to remove the bed?
a. Yes, you will need to drill C notch mounting hole in the top of the oem framerail. 15 minutes, 4 bolts and 3 extra buddies is typically all it takes!

2. Do need to remove the cab?
a. Absolutely no need to remove the cab or even loosen it.

3. Do I have to use the c-notch?
a. Yes, our c-notch allows proper ride height, suspension travel, and also contains mounting locations for the coilovers, panhard bar, and other suspension components.

4. Do I have to use the drop spindles?
a. Yes, we have designed this system to use the included drop spindles to maintain proper ride height, suspension geometry, and suspension travel.

5. Will my stock brakes work?
a. This system is compatible with the OEM brake system that uses the 1.250” thick rotor, or any aftermarket system that replaces that system. The OEM system that uses a 1.00” thick rotor is not directly compatible.

6. How wide of a tire can I fit with this kit?
a. Safe fitment – Front = 255/40-18 Rear = 275/40-18
b. Brave fitment = careful measurements will be required

7. Do I have to cut my front inner fenders?
a. Unless you are running some extraordinary wheel/tire fitment that we have not encountered, no inner fender trimming necessary.

8. Do I have to cut my bed floor?
a. We have designed this system to be compatible with the OEM bed floor, but there will be 2 small section of bed brace trimming necessary [one on each side]. Dimensions and instructions are included with the installation guide.

9. How much horsepower can the kit handle?
a. We have not found any limitation to horsepower.

10. Will my existing sway bars work?
a. The improved sway bar mounting design does not allow the use of the OEM bars, which are so small that they are irrelevant anyway. We have included a much larger diameter bar that is calibrated to work with the spring rates and shock valving range included with your system.

11. Can I use my existing exhaust?
a. Since there are so many variations on exhaust configuration for these trucks [both OEM and aftermarket] it is very likely you will need to modify the tailpipes of you current exhaust.

12. Can I still tow/haul with this kit?
a. Yes, up to the original GVW of the truck.

13. How much will it lower my truck?
a. We give you a specific fender height measurement instead of a “drop” amount because we never know if you are starting with new springs, old springs, or replacement springs. By going right to the end result [which is the new fender height] we eliminate all those variables for you. Also, you will have a small window about 1” up or down of available height adjustment.
Front fender height = 25.5” with a 255/40-18 tire
Rear fender height = 24.75” with a 275/40-18 tire

14. Will it work with a rack and pinion steering conversion?
a. We have determined that most rack and pinion kits suffer from bracket flex, rack flex, poor steering geometry, and reduced turning radius. The system from No Limit Engineering seems to resolve most of these issues, but we have not yet specifically validated it on this vehicle. For most people a good steering box seems to be the best answer.

[Malo83]

Is a trailing arm setup for the 73-87's in the future, seen a couple on the net? any advantage or disadvantage to running it on our trucks, if NASCAR runs them why not

[JohnJ@RideTech]

My Small Screen Debut!
We finally finished the install video of the kit. Check it out and let me know what you think.
I probably wont be nominated for an Academy Award or anything but this will give you guys a pretty good idea of how the kit goes together.
Let me know your thoughts.

73-87 C10 Coilover Suspension Install -- Full -...

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

My Small Screen Debut!
We finally finished the install video of the kit. Check it out and let me know what you think. I probably wont be nominated for an Academy Award or anything but this will give you guys a pretty good idea of how the kit goes together.
Let me know your thoughts.

73-87 C10 Coilover Suspension Install -- Full - YouTube

Thanks for sharing.

[PunishedC10]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

Ok guys, I appreciate your patience.

I was able to get the truck on the lift this morning and take a few measurements so you can compare and contrast the fitment of a rear mounted blazer tank. Since I don't have a tank here to measure from the mounting points, I took a few measurements to give you a very basic idea of where our components sit in the truck.



Measurements were taken from the rear frame brace as well as the lip of the bed floor under the tailgate. I apologize for the "paintbrush" editing, I don't have any access to kickass photo shop programs so I am working with what I got.

-Starting off, the pink line is a measurement in between the brackets on the bridge. This measurement is 26in.

-The red line is from bottom lip of the rear frame brace to the diff cover. Our rear differential is a factory 10 bolt with a factory stamped cover. This measurement is 24.75 inches.

-The orange line is from the lip of the bed floor to the upper tube on the bridge mount. This measurement is 29 inches.

-The yellow line is a measurement from the lip of the bed floor to the pan hard bar. This measurement is 31 inches.

-The blue line is from the lip of the bed floor to the diff cover. This measurement is 33 inches.

-The black line is from the bottom lip of the rear frame brace to the pan hard bar. This measurement is 22.5 inches.

-The green line is the measurement from the bed floor lip to the sway bar mounting bracket. This measurement is 28 inches.

-The white line is from the diff cover to the outside of the cross member. This measurement is 4 inches.

-The bright pink line is from the diff cover to the outside of the pan hard bar. This measurement is 2.75 inches.

Attachment 1697732

Thanks for the info! I plan on using the 31 Gallon Blazer, I should know in a few weeks if everything will fit and I'll report back. If all else fails, I'll use a smaller fuel cell in place of the tank.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Rickysnickers]

Nice. Now for the big question, can I install this in 16 minutes too???? Seriously, though, that looks like a nice piece of kit.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by PunishedC10

Thanks for the info! I plan on using the 31 Gallon Blazer, I should know in a few weeks if everything will fit and I'll report back. If all else fails, I'll use a smaller fuel cell in place of the tank.
Posted via Mobile Device

For sure! Definitely keep us all posted on how everything fits. There seems to be a lot of interest in that particular tank. The information would be really useful to a lot of people.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Nice. Now for the big question, can I install this in 16 minutes too???? Seriously, though, that looks like a nice piece of kit.

If you can install it in 16min, I've got a job application for you to fill out!..lol

[82streetshow]

Blazer tank is a cheap easy to come by tank and fits very well, a lot of people like to use them. Looks like ricks tank will fit according to my measurements and these, I will likely order mine today then

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by 82streetshow

Blazer tank is a cheap easy to come by tank and fits very well, a lot of people like to use them. Looks like ricks tank will fit according to my measurements and these, I will likely order mine today then

Awesome. Let me know if you need anything.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

As you guys start installing your kits, please post and share the pictures if you don't already have your own build thread.
I would love to see how some of your trucks are progressing.

[Advanced Design]

Nice work on the install video John. What are the advantages and benefits of this system over the Street Grip?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by PunishedC10

Thanks for the info! I plan on using the 31 Gallon Blazer, I should know in a few weeks if everything will fit and I'll report back. If all else fails, I'll use a smaller fuel cell in place of the tank.

What are your plans for exhaust? If you dont use a rear mounted tank, you can run true duals all the way out to the back of the truck.

I truly dont understand the reason for running a rear mounted tank.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice work on the install video John. What are the advantages and benefits of this system over the Street Grip?

Thanks man, that was my small screen debut..Ive been rejecting calls to come to the Academy Awards for a couple of days now.

The StreetGrip system was designed to replace old, worn out OE parts with components that were designed to not only give you a lowered ride height but to also give a drastic improvement in overall ride quality and handling. The StreetGrip system was designed for daily driving with some occasional autocross use. This kit really shines out on the street, it sticks on the back roads with very little body roll and rides like a car out on the highway. Its a nice combination of street and performance use.

The coilover kit is a little more aggressive. Our new coilover kit was designed to handle whatever you wanted to throw at it. Factory small block? Easy Peasy. High HP LS engine? No problem. This kit really shines out on the track.
It stays flat in the corners, level in the straightaways but wont beat up your Grandpa when you drive to the local cruise in. The ride quality is adjustable with the HQ coilovers (same as StreetGrip with the HQ shocks) but spring rate can be dialed in based off of your intended use.

I have driven the same truck with both kits and ride quality is superior to any other lowered C10 that I have driven. I don't think you will be disappointed with either one in regards to that. It really all comes down to intended use and what you are planning on doing with the truck. If you want nice ride quality, a more aggressive stance and want to do it all with OE style components, the StreetGrip kit is A1 hands down. If you want ride quality, adjustability and components that will handle whatever you throw at it, look no further than the coilover kit.

[Advanced Design]

Excellent description John. Thank you. If it isn't already there, your explanation should be included in the product description on the web site.

And even if not really "needed" for a trucks intended use, there is always the cool factor for having four link, coil overs and strong arm control arms on your truck.

[82streetshow]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

What are your plans for exhaust? If you dont use a rear mounted tank, you can run true duals all the way out to the back of the truck.

I truly dont understand the reason for running a rear mounted tank.

weight distribution, better baffles, better options for fuel pumps, stock tanks hang low and will drag on a trailers or alignment rack on really low trucks. Im doing it for the higher output pump and asthetics. Blown LS's need fuel!

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by 82streetshow

weight distribution, better baffles, better options for fuel pumps, stock tanks hang low and will drag on a trailers or alignment rack on really low trucks. Im doing it for the higher output pump and asthetics. Blown LS's need fuel!

Are you going to be using one of Ricks Tanks?

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Excellent description John. Thank you. If it isn't already there, your explanation should be included in the product description on the web site.

And even if not really "needed" for a trucks intended use, there is always the cool factor for having four link, coil overs and strong arm control arms on your truck.

I agree 100% The coilover kit looks really cool under those trucks.

[82streetshow]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

Are you going to be using one of Ricks Tanks?

yes still in the process of getting more info to them to get this thing perfected

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 82streetshow

weight distribution....

I'm puzzled with this theory. It seems to me having weight centered between the suspension would have an advantage over hanging it well behind the suspension.

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I'm puzzled with this theory. It seems to me having weight centered between the suspension would have an advantage over hanging it well behind the suspension.

Trucks in general are really light in the rear. with the tank in the stock location a portion of the fuel weight is carried by the front tires. Moving it behind the rear axle puts all of the fuel weight on the rear tires. Living where there is snow it becomes very obvious how light trucks are in the rear. Sand bags or other forms of weight are required for decent road manners in the winter.

[82streetshow]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I'm puzzled with this theory. It seems to me having weight centered between the suspension would have an advantage over hanging it well behind the suspension.

more interested in the added rear weight for traction purposes

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by 82streetshow

more interested in the added rear weight for traction purposes

How have things been going?

[HzEmall]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

I agree 100% The coilover kit looks really cool under those trucks.

John, I have a question for you.

I currently have your full air ride kit in my 79 www.projectc10.com and I'm wondering if I can buy just the parts that I would need to update my kit to your coil over kit?

In the front I'm assuming just the upper bracket and the lower control arm and in the back just the upper and lower coil over brackets?

Thanks