radiator support

[extd56]

Does anybody have a picture of how the 1968 Chevy radiator support bushing go? I can't remember how they go and no directions with the kit. Thanks

[Mt Man Chad]

Good question...

I've asked this question before, I'll look in the assembly manual tonight and see if I can post something for you tomorrow!

[extd56]

Thanks

[kxnomore]

I think LMC has a pretty good diagram on their website...

[extd56]

I was looking there too but want to make sure the ones that I have are the correct ones.

[Mt Man Chad]

67~68 rubber isolators are about 1/4 thick and 2" round. The the 69 ~72 mounts that are almost 5/8" thick and 3" in diameter.

I'll take some pics tonight of the correct 67 C10 setup for you.

Most places sell the wrong bushings for 67 & 68 core supports!

[jb4short]

I agree that the exploded views in the LMC catalog are great....very handy

[Mt Man Chad]

Here's the pics for the difference between the two. Anybody here correct me if I'm wrong! This is what i've seen on my 67~68 and the later years is different!

67-68 small thin isolators

69-72 large think isolators

[67ChevyRedneck]

Here's my 67's:

I put washers on top and on the bottom of the mount (barely visible in pic.)

[extd56]

Thanks for the replies, answers all my questions and then some.

[JimMiranda]

did you need to remove the radiator to get the bolt out? I'm replacing all the bushings with Poly from Energy Suspension and I will have to use some of the existing hardware so that really means replacing what did not come with the kit.

[weq92f]

Just remove the upper mounts and the radiator can be slid from side to side to access the core support bolts. No need to remove, drain or even disconnect the radiator.

YMMV,

-klb

[JimMiranda]

Thanks for the tip! i'll start posting as soon as I have some pics.

[KMAT]

Help I'm still confused after reading what I could find out I apologize I learned from pictures I can read all I can don't sink in anyhow my this is my first C10 I'm doing radiator support bushings got the truck didn't have any on just bolts and washers
No Square washers like I see in pictures no carriage bolts please help

[rpmerf]

It's fine if you don't have carriage bolts or square washers, just makes it a little harder to tighten down.

Here's the instructions from the set I used. Position 1 is the radiator support.
http://imagesrv.catalograck.com/imgVD/ENE/17015.pdf


Radiator support (body)
Washer
Top mount
Frame
Lower mount
Washer
A 3/8" bolt through all of that with a lock nut at the bottom.

[michael bustamante]

if you could post a pic of the kit pieces we could put our brains together,,,

[KMAT]

And I apologize for not posting a picture that was one of my original questions what's how to do that

[KMAT]

Thank you very much for those whom you have replied to my stressful issue I appreciate it very much now one more question how do you post pictures

[KMAT]

Haha I figured it out thank you guys for your help I hope the pictures turn out

[KMAT]

One more quick question from anybody 3/8 inch Bolt seems kind of small for the stress it's going to go through even though I'm putting grade 8 bolts in the diameter size is way smaller than the bushing sleeve.
I suppose the extra room is for movement for alignment correct? Once again thanks all really helped a lot the site is really help me out

[rpmerf]

You have 2 styles of bushing. The one with indentations on the side, and one that is beveled. The one with the indentations goes on the top. The part that sticks out sits in the frame mount. The beveled one goes on the bottom with the bevel down. There should be a washer top and bottom to keep the sleeve in place and make sure you don't crush the bushings too much. According to the chart I posted, the top washer should be 2-1/2" diameter and the bottom washer should be 2" diameter.

3/8" is kind of small. The ones on the cab are a little larger at 9/16" in the front and 7/16" in the rear. The weight of the radiator support holds everything in place, the bolt and mounts are more to keep it from shifting.

[69Tom]

Subscribing to this. I'm sure I'll need the info when it comes to putting my truck back together.

[RodnRudy]

Originally Posted by extd56

Does anybody have a picture of how the 1968 Chevy radiator support bushing go? I can't remember how they go and no directions with the kit. Thanks

The last two or three posts with the pics are for 69-72 core support NOT 68. I hope extd56 doesn't get too confused.

[Grumpy old man]

Well... When the gap at the bottom of the door/fender is 1/2" wide . A lot of the parts suppliers don't even list the 67/68 bushings They just list 67-72

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=361207

https://www.classicmuscle.com/cushio...CABEgLzhPD_BwE

[HO455]

Originally Posted by KMAT

One more quick question from anybody 3/8 inch Bolt seems kind of small for the stress it's going to go through even though I'm putting grade 8 bolts in the diameter size is way smaller than the bushing sleeve.
I suppose the extra room is for movement for alignment correct? Once again thanks all really helped a lot the site is really help me out

The 3/8" bolts are fine for this application. I have never seen one that has failed. Even when they are so rusted they twist in two when using an end wrench to remove one. The core support is tied to the inner and outer fenders and they in turn are tied to the cab. My opinion is the bolts were stressed more going down the assembly line before everything was attached. After that for the most part they just keep the bushings from falling out. No need for grade 8 bolts on anything going through rubber bushings ( at least on vintage vehicles like these) as you are not going to torque (18 ft /lbs I think) them down past the limitations of the rubber. That's why they have the lock tab on the bottom to keep the nut from falling off.