1960 BBC Swap

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Nobody else commented, but you, sir, are awesome!

Ya I laughed yesterday when I read it.

[350TacoZilla]

Originally Posted by TheBrewery

Not super worried about MPG's as the speed limit here is 45 almost everywhere I would go, even the freeways are 55 so won't be spinning too fast(I think anyways). The plan is to swap a 4.11 12 bolt in soon which will make it more interesting.

I have 5 Muncies sitting in the garage to rebuild so maybe one will be a cruising tranny, I did a quick google but couldn't fine the m21y gears do you have a link? Also one for sure is going to get the m23z gears for some nasty burnouts

Yeah my dad has something like 8 M20 or M21's but has 1 m22 in his car.

Here is place I found before and saved site. http://www.beaverbrooktransmissions.com/catalog.pdf do CTRL+F search for M21Y and it should take you straight to gears. not sure if there are other places that carry them.

[TheBrewery]

So I got the trans attached


And set back in the frame so I could check the trans clearance... it's jammed pretty far back there...






I also flipped the frame brackets the other way around and I think this is how they are supposed to go they align with the top perfectly


But the bottom is off the crossmember


The full length Chevelle headers seem to fit but the collector will have to be shortened and the exhaust will have to be routed thru the X frame.

[TheBrewery]

Here is a side by side

[Captainfab]

How about just moving the engine and trans forward just enough to be able to get the lower engine mount bracket bolt in the crossmember? That will also help a little with shifter to seat clearance if you are installing a bench seat.

[TheBrewery]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

How about just moving the engine and trans forward just enough to be able to get the lower engine mount bracket bolt in the crossmember? That will also help a little with shifter to seat clearance if you are installing a bench seat.

It seems like it has to be that far back to clear the radiator.

Mike

[350TacoZilla]

What about cutting the top off each one and switching the bottoms around, tack them while in the truck then pull them out and fully weld and add a gusset. That way you have the tops that fit frame nice and bottoms contact the crossmember, you could also negate the need for the spacers on frame that way.

If all else you are using the older style motor mounts like that where the rubber is bolted to engine you can just use tube "stands" off the frame for the motor mount bolt to bolt through.

Hope you dont mind me hacking up your pic.

[Captainfab]

If the engine has a long water pump, that is part of the issue. Change to a short water pump. All trucks '72 and earlier came with short water pumps. And where is your radiator located? Is it bolted to the radiator support? With the engine that far back, you will need to fabricate and weld a support on the back side of the crossmember to support the bottom of the engine mount bracket. The other option would be to use the '67-'72 small block engine mount brackets.

Originally Posted by TheBrewery

It seems like it has to be that far back to clear the radiator.

Mike

[TheBrewery]

I got the frame brackets in!

[TheBrewery]

As I was working on getting the motor cleaned up and ready to go and kept finding problems...

-the distributor was shot
-#5 had cracked and broken pushrods
-the heads were warped
-main caps #3&4 were not torqued
-one hole was sleeved
-three others had some heavy pitting
-the cam gear ate a 0.035" hole in the block
-the timing chain was shot
-the oil pump was destroyed

so needless to say it was not going to last long, It was sold as a running and driving motor, I even rode in the car... not sure how it was working in this bad of shape

Off to the machine shop


3 angle valve job and a little decking on the heads...


A good hone on the cylinders, some new hi-compression pistons...


A hydraulic roller cam and roller rockers...


A fresh rebuild of the carb with some drilled out jets, a new RPM Airgap intake, some freshly painted M/T tall valve covers, short water pump...


Lastly, I've been building the exhaust. Some Summit Racing Chevelle headers, cut back to clear the X frame...


3" mandrel bent from collector to dump...




More parts arriving today, still have to set the timing, mount the alternator, connect the wires, install the heater, replace the front cap, mount radiator, fill fluids and fire!

[TheBrewery]

Here, is a video of the first start and first run... It was still a bit fat but is tuned out now.

https://youtu.be/qdHe6lC3EFI

Mike

[Ronzo]

I love this build, great inspiration for my 1961 GMC shortbox.
The 250 in it is nice and all, but I remember the big block I had in my 69 Camaro and how much fun that was.