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Old 06-25-2009, 07:26 AM   #26
orgalmeister
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Re: Rearend question

Road trip!!!
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:14 AM   #27
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Re: Rearend question

9-inch out of a 79 ford f150 big axles tubes and 31 splines in it at 60-inch from back plate to back plate
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:22 AM   #28
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Re: Rearend question

Also total to the door was 500.00 it was in Ohio and I live in north Texas, was a perfect fit the axles drums centered in the fender wells. Put all new hardware and brakes along with turning the drums along with new emergency brake cables to fit had them put the clip type instead of the bolt type connections on the drum side to hold the stock cable to the wheel so I can use the stock emergency brake which I wanna to keep since it will be the only orignal footpedal left. Have the vendor if need new stock brake cables custom made for the ford rearends.
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:26 AM   #29
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Re: Rearend question

I got a number of hits under $250 within 250 miles of Miami using searchtempest (craigslist search engine).
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:38 AM   #30
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Re: Rearend question

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Originally Posted by slimneverdies View Post
Hey guys, I've been searching all day through junkyard after junkyard for the last 2 weeks for a 8.8 out of an explorer. The only one that I found that measures 59-3/4" the guy wants $400 which I talked him down to from $500.

It has 3:73 gears, Disc brakes, sway bar, and it has 33,000 miles out of a 2001.

So my question is, is $400 a good price? (remember- I live in South Florida and everything is expensive)
Is $400 worth it to you ??? If that's what it takes to get the rear axle you want then Pay the man.
That's great you were able to talk him down $100. This way...He's happy and your happy you saved hundred bucks and got the axle you were looking for.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:42 PM   #31
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Re: Rearend question

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i have one on my 56. i haven't run with it yet but they are supposed to be pretty strong and are a good width. mine is out of a 97 exploder with disk brakes and 3.73's
Me too! Considering all I'd have to do is redrill the bolt holes and patch the old ones, it is a bargain (I paid $250) for all you get:

- 3:73 gears
- Trac Loc (Limited Slip)
- Disk Brakes
- Almost as strong as the venerable 9 inch
- 1000's produced with lots of parts available at any parts stores.

How can you go wrong?
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:14 PM   #32
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Re: Rearend question

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Me too! Considering all I'd have to do is redrill the bolt holes and patch the old ones, it is a bargain (I paid $250) for all you get:
Im doing the same thing, I plan on using 1 inch wheel adapter spacers to go to chevy bolt pattern and it will make the track width damn near 62"
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:24 PM   #33
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Re: Rearend question

these adapters, where do you buy them for this setup?
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:27 PM   #34
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Re: Rearend question

http://adaptitusa.com/index.asp?Page...ProdID=18&HS=1

These are the first ones that popped up but I figure there're gona be 75 bucks wherever you go. I have some half inch aluminum that Ill double up and drill my own.
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Old 06-25-2009, 03:15 PM   #35
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Re: Rearend question

Why would you user a spacer to go to gm wheel bolt pattern? senseless u will still need to get offset wheels when done and if your putting alot of ponies to the rear not a good idea. also if the back plate to back plate is 60 why add 2 inches...
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:10 PM   #36
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Re: Rearend question

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http://adaptitusa.com/index.asp?Page...ProdID=18&HS=1

These are the first ones that popped up but I figure there're gona be 75 bucks wherever you go. I have some half inch aluminum that Ill double up and drill my own.
Unless you have the machinery to turn the aluminum within very fine tolerances and check your end product for balance, I wouldn't cheap out and make my own. You'd have to get your wheels balanced with the chunk of aluminum bolted to it to come anywhere close to balancing that rim.
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Old 06-26-2009, 09:11 AM   #37
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Re: Rearend question

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Originally Posted by 53lochevy View Post
Why would you user a spacer to go to gm wheel bolt pattern? senseless u will still need to get offset wheels when done and if your putting alot of ponies to the rear not a good idea. also if the back plate to back plate is 60 why add 2 inches...
I have to agree, don't bother with the spacers. You will compromise the look of the wheel with the necessary offset. Just pull the axles and take them to a competent machine shop to redrill for chevy pattern. They can also cut some plugs for the old holes and just tack the plugs/grind for strength.

That way, you don't have to run custom offsets, lose rim lip/depth, etc. It really isn't much more work/cost at all (most shops will charge $100 or so for drilling the Chevy bolt pattern).
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:42 PM   #38
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Re: Rearend question

Are there any other thoughts on the pinion offset? There is a salvage yard down the road that had a 8.8 3.73 posi out of a mountaineer for $250. But it also has the pinion offset 3 or so inches to the right. Is there anyway around this, to make the rear end work?
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:44 AM   #39
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Re: Rearend question

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Are there any other thoughts on the pinion offset? There is a salvage yard down the road that had a 8.8 3.73 posi out of a mountaineer for $250. But it also has the pinion offset 3 or so inches to the right. Is there anyway around this, to make the rear end work?
From what Ive heard drom a few driveline shops is that it doenst matter.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:26 AM   #40
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Re: Rearend question

Some vertical and horizontal offset is ok, look at the front drive line on 4wd trucks. Also consider how the offset angle changes even when straight just from suspension movement up and down.
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:48 PM   #41
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Re: Rearend question

I believe on a mustang rearend which is 28 spline you can change axles from an S- 10 which is the same width and 28 spline. So if you want to stick with the GM bolt pattern but want an 8.8 dif you have options.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:00 PM   #42
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Re: Rearend question

how would you handle the rear disc's bolt pattern if you re-drill or replace the axles to get the Chevy bolt pattern?

-Andy
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:11 PM   #43
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Re: Rearend question

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how would you handle the rear disc's bolt pattern if you re-drill or replace the axles to get the Chevy bolt pattern?

-Andy
Replace the axle. I am told it is a 28 spline. Will likely have at it this weekend and know 100%.
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Old 07-20-2009, 05:13 PM   #44
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Re: Rearend question

If you have a drill press then drill the chevy bolt pattern in the rotors and weld up the old holes and be carefull not to warp them. I just boughtt the 1 inch wheel spacers and they look real nice. They will put my track width back to the stock 62.
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:57 PM   #45
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Re: Rearend question

Yeah hotrodrookie, I had to do the same thing. I went with a adapter that has torque rings machined on them and the guy who makes them wont go any smaller than 1.3".

I dont know about everyone elses box but doesnt your caliper bolt hit the inside of the box? I guess that's a question only for the guys with the 8.8 rear and airbags.
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:47 PM   #46
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Re: Rearend question

so where exactly do you measure to see if an axle is the right length? ex, along the tubes, the plates that mount to the tubes, or the actual plates on the axle shafts(where the lug studs go)
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:35 AM   #47
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Re: Rearend question

It all depends on what your goals for the modification. I just measured from wheel mounting surface to the other mounting surface or "the actual plates on the axle shafts" also called the hubs.
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:25 PM   #48
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Re: Rearend question

basically i don't want tubs or huge spacers. i am thinking of bagging all 4 corners but not sure if i want to lay frame. just trying to decide which of the 3 axles that i have is going to be used.
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Old 07-22-2009, 08:43 AM   #49
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Re: Rearend question

If your not going to lay it down and have your truck mean and low there is no reason to airbag ur ride it will be a waste of money, because you can get that out of springs, as far as spacers and welding the hub up and redrilling the hub a no no period, put the ponies to it and your in trouble. Why make more work for yourself and it won't be right waste of time and money spent. Out of the three axles you have, you could have just waited and got the right one instead of trying to figure how to shimmy one to work with spacers and drill new holes in the hub which is senseless just my thought. pay no mind
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:36 PM   #50
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Re: Rearend question

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Originally Posted by 53lochevy View Post
If your not going to lay it down and have your truck mean and low there is no reason to airbag ur ride it will be a waste of money, because you can get that out of springs, as far as spacers and welding the hub up and redrilling the hub a no no period, put the ponies to it and your in trouble. Why make more work for yourself and it won't be right waste of time and money spent. Out of the three axles you have, you could have just waited and got the right one instead of trying to figure how to shimmy one to work with spacers and drill new holes in the hub which is senseless just my thought. pay no mind
i refuse to use spacers. my question is I have 3 axles laying around, none of which is the stock axle, I am trying to figure out which if any is the right length. If it happens to be that none of them work, then off to the wrecking yard I go. My main question is where are people measuring on the axle to come up with the right length
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