A/C re-charge - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

71sub · 05-27-2003, 04:16 PM

Is it possible to purge the A/C system ourselves OR do we need to go to a shop to have it serviced ?

I'm putting my rear over-head A/C system back in my suburban and don't want to pay $150 for a shop to purge/charge the system.

Zeke · 05-27-2003, 10:16 PM

If the system is empty you can vacuum it yourself and charge it. If not take it to a shop so they can recover the freon. $150 seems like a good price for someone else to do it. The expensive part is when they start finding things wrong, price really jumps with replacement AC parts.

71sub · 05-28-2003, 12:06 AM

How does one "vacuum" a system @ home ?

68 Suburban · 05-28-2003, 01:01 AM

This might help you:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3952

ddsmith · 05-28-2003, 05:08 AM

I used that same pump to blow a R-12 charge to the air and draw the system into a vacuum. The only problem with this pump is how low of a vacuum it is capable of drawing. I think mine was rated at 28.5". That isn't bad but if you have moisture in the system you need it down lower to boil off the water or you need the system really hot. As the water starts to boil it removes alot of btu's from the remaining water keeping it cool enough to slow the process way down. I think I would probably go ahead and do it myself but the R-12 is real expensive and the R-134A seems to not cool as well with the existing condenser/evaporator setup. i ended up using R-134A in an 87 Firebird. It's not as cold as the R-12 but some cool is way better than no cool.

05-27-2003, 04:16 PM	#1
71sub Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 169	A/C re-charge Is it possible to purge the A/C system ourselves OR do we need to go to a shop to have it serviced ? I'm putting my rear over-head A/C system back in my suburban and don't want to pay $150 for a shop to purge/charge the system. __________________ 71 C/10 : 350 / 700r4 ; Ford 9" posi 3.50 with 31x10.5 rear tires, single drive shaft, C-notch, 2.5" drop spindles, keyless entry 71 Suburban 350/350 -- caddy tail lights, keyless entry, late model seats, billet Autometer instrument cluster 70 Ford Torino -- 351W (balanced & blueprinted ), C4, VDO gauges

05-27-2003, 10:16 PM	#2
Zeke Active Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: L.A. Lower Alabama Posts: 453	If the system is empty you can vacuum it yourself and charge it. If not take it to a shop so they can recover the freon. $150 seems like a good price for someone else to do it. The expensive part is when they start finding things wrong, price really jumps with replacement AC parts. __________________ 1969 C10 350 3spd 1995 GMC 3500 XC 350 dually When Thomas Edison worked late into the night on the electric light, he had to do it by gas lamp or candle. I'm sure it made the work seem that much more urgent. George Carlin

05-28-2003, 12:06 AM	#3
71sub Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 169	How does one "vacuum" a system @ home ? __________________ 71 C/10 : 350 / 700r4 ; Ford 9" posi 3.50 with 31x10.5 rear tires, single drive shaft, C-notch, 2.5" drop spindles, keyless entry 71 Suburban 350/350 -- caddy tail lights, keyless entry, late model seats, billet Autometer instrument cluster 70 Ford Torino -- 351W (balanced & blueprinted ), C4, VDO gauges

05-28-2003, 01:01 AM	#4
68 Suburban Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ Posts: 6,802	This might help you: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3952 __________________ Just sitting here contemplating contemplation.

05-28-2003, 05:08 AM	#5
ddsmith Glowing since 1978 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Lusby,MD,USA Posts: 532	I used that same pump to blow a R-12 charge to the air and draw the system into a vacuum. The only problem with this pump is how low of a vacuum it is capable of drawing. I think mine was rated at 28.5". That isn't bad but if you have moisture in the system you need it down lower to boil off the water or you need the system really hot. As the water starts to boil it removes alot of btu's from the remaining water keeping it cool enough to slow the process way down. I think I would probably go ahead and do it myself but the R-12 is real expensive and the R-134A seems to not cool as well with the existing condenser/evaporator setup. i ended up using R-134A in an 87 Firebird. It's not as cold as the R-12 but some cool is way better than no cool. __________________ 66 Chevy C30 Stakebody Dump, PS,PB, 327cu in 71 Corvette Coupe 454 4 speed 69 Chevy C20 Custom Camper



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