Pancake problem :(

[zippeay]

Alright so a few weeks ago I Z'd the front of my frame and before I had a chance to finish it Dino Pm'd me and suggest that I pancake my crossmember instead. So I welded my frame back together and section an inch out of my crossmember "like he suggested".
To make a long story short I am still 3/4 of an inch from laying frame in the front . I'm so frustrated because this put me back almost a week. The reason I'm not laying frame yet is because the LCA's are hitting, I was told specifically to not take out more than an 1 3/8s so I kept it to only an inch. I honestly think if I would have taken out 2 inches it would still not lay out. So now I think my only option is to go back and Z the frame again.
No one take this as me blaming Dino, he was only trying to help "I do appreciate it" I'm just confused as to why it didn't work.
He said he does this all the time and I can't understand why it wouldn't work for me? Anyway he are the pictures of what I did, maybe someone can tell me if I did something wrong but I'm fairly sure I did it correctly.

This is the inch I took out of the crossmember


The front


The back


This is how much the front of the frame is from the ground.

[PBFAB.COM]

Looks like you sectioned in the common fashion. Problem is that the lower control arms hang down below the frame close to 3".

You might need to do a combination of "Z" and pancake to get where you want to be if you want to maintain the factory cross-member.

[broey]

pancake will get you very close. but not laying frame. to lay frame you may need to do a mild z. to be honest though. you will have taken the best route. other than buying a dropmember. so I wouldnt look at it as a waist of time. IMO. do a mild z for the next 1 and 1/2 inch, and use that z to bring the crossmember forward an inch or so to center the wheels in the wheel well. this way, a pancake with a mild z is going to get the stance you want without bringing your engine too high forcing you to cut into the tranny tunnel.

[Narxoleptic Customs]

Agree w Broey... Gotta move it forward anyway... Good job on the pancake tho.
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[tinydb84]

Are the vertical welds from notching and bending to fit?
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[zippeay]

Thanks for the advice. I figured I would have to re-do the Z. Yes the vertical welds are from where I cut slices so I could bend the portions that stuck out too far. It was better than trying to fill large gaps.
I just wanted to make sure I didn't screw something up. I will get back at it tonight.
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[tinydb84]

Thanks for the idea. I'm about to chop one up and was trying to figure out the gap issue before I did.
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[zippeay]

I would not make the cuts on the cross member like I did. The reason is because "I didn't realize this when I cut it" that when you cut the curved parts they do not line back up when you push the top portion down. It's hard to explain through typing, basically draw out your cuts on a flat sheet of paper and cut them out. When you put the pieces back together the curved parts do not line back up like you would think. I wish I would have taken more picture so I could explain but if you do what I said you will understand.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by zippeay

I would not make the cuts on the cross member like I did. The reason is because "I didn't realize this when I cut it" that when you cut the curved parts they do not line back up when you push the top portion down. It's hard to explain through typing, basically draw out your cuts on a flat sheet of paper and cut them out. When you put the pieces back together the curved parts do not line back up like you would think. I wish I would have taken more picture so I could explain but if you do what I said you will understand.
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It is true the top/bottoms won't line up exactly once the section is removed. But the slits & a little tweaking w/a hammer gets the gaps to an acceptable amount for welding (just like what you did).

[casey g]

Hey. So does this lower the truck? Or just allow you to go lower with out hitting? Thanks guys
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[54Caddy]

What do your aarms look like?? maybe if you cup the lower control arms it would lay then

[broey]

Originally Posted by casey g

Hey. So does this lower the truck? Or just allow you to go lower with out hitting? Thanks guys
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its going to lower the truck. about 1 1/2 inches

[PBFAB.COM]

Broey is spot on. If you are going to spend the time to modify the factory components, your best solution is to do a combination of pancake and "z".

Take his advice and do some measuring when you "z" the frame. Angle cut it so that the crossmember moves forward an inch to help center the wheels in the wheel well opening.

[casey g]

Does this cause steering linkage problems? Not sure if this all makes sence. Thanks for the info!
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by casey g

Does this cause steering linkage problems? Not sure if this all makes sence. Thanks for the info!
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Yes it can & does depending on the amount done.

[zippeay]

Thanks for all the advice! I really appreciate it.
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[casey g]

Scoti. Doing this at only one inch will it cause steering problems. Thanks. If you guys have a link to more about this I will read befor asking more questions. Thanks again guys
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[zippeay]

http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/chopcross.html

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=pancake

Hope this helps
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by casey g

Scoti. Doing this at only one inch will it cause steering problems. Thanks. If you guys have a link to more about this I will read befor asking more questions. Thanks again guys
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With bags @ full dump it might. Moderate drops prob won't. My upper a-arm to steering column shaft is very close w/3" spindles & 1.375" sectioned. If I were to utilize bags or big drop springs, it would definitely require clearancing. The x-member was clearanced for the tie-rods/centerlink arc of travel.

[Dinos63]

zippeay, sorry on the info i dont have my pm any more but i remember talking about tire size and stuff and about the 1 3/8 to be safe guy always take to much out thinking thats all thats needs to be done to lay frame and it opens a can of worms any more than that and all the steering has to moved up .my dually is 1 3/4 pancake crossmember and i runnng a 22"wheel a 28 1/2 tire but i had to notch the frame and move the box and steering up and my truck lays the frame. nate made me some tube arms to move the ball joint in the correct location. we did the same on dbombs truck also but he is running a 20" wheel and a 28 tire . Man duuude i am sorry if i cause ya more work

[Dinos63]

notch and dbombs

[Dinos63]

aold cross member and pancake

[Dinos63]

dbombs with stock arms

[jmedero]

Nice. I love that frame notch dino. Did you and dbomb raise the gear box as well?
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[Twiztid_66c10]

Got a question on the pancaked members u did Dino. I am installing one now I did and noticed in your pics u didn't use the top 2 mounting bolts on each side of the member to the frame I was going to weld a plate on to the frame utealize them would it be over kill?
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