56 pro touring build

[hotrod1]

Here is where we start. This is s son-father build (you know how it is, son doing all the work, father doing all the finger pointing). We wanted something that would always look cool and different than most vehicles out there. There are a lot of Chevelle's, Nova's, Camaro's, etc... out there. Not a lot of cool trucks (members of this web site excluded, of course).

We searched hi and low to find a good starting point. There is a lot of junk out there and we looked at them all. We think that we started with a good 56. It looks that way now but who knows until you get it back from the blaster.

[hotrod1]

A few more pics of the inside.

[hotrod1]

We bought it without the engine and trans. Somebody started working on this quite some time ago. It has not been registered since 1987. It looked like it was sitting in someones garage. I am not quite sure about the last guys work though. There are a few things that are an issue. He tried to get rid of some of the seams where the front top and bottom grill sheetmetal, and the back panel that connects the bed sides by welding them together. We had to cut them apart and try to salvage the pieces.

Another area that seemed to be interesting was where the front fender mounts to the cab. It appears like the mount is not there and he welded a washer to the cab to bolt to. He did this on both sides. Go figure. It is ugly.

Every beauty has its demons.

[Kabwe]

I'm glad to see you started a build thread.

[hotrod1]

We started to remove things and before you know it it was in a thousand pieces. It didnt take long at all. Just made sure that all bolts were placed in separate baggies all labeled so we know where to put them back.

We are sure going to have a lot of left over parts.

Stripping the frame was interesting. Those rivets are sure on there. Thank goodness for a plasma cutter. Its is still not easy though.

[hotrod1]

We decided to build a dolly for the cab to sit on and to flip it on its side to be able to work on the bottom. It would be another project and would be good to sharpen the welding skills also.

We found a guy that had a lot of 2" square 1/8 wall tubing that he wanted to get rid of for a good price. Way overkill but it will work. We then build the dolly on top of the existing frame as a template so we could determine where to put the risers and cab mounts. We finished, it bolted up perfectly.

[Kim57]

Looks like a very good truck. What are your plans for engine and suspension?
Kim

[hotrod1]

Hey Kim57

We have looked in depth at suspensions. There are so many to choose from. TCI, Heidts, Progressive, Corvette, No Limit, Fatman, etc. They were all good and each has its advantages, but we wanted something that was going to handle better than most. We looked at who was winning the auto crosses truck division and we found that No Limit was on top. Their engineering was a little different than most. They use a Camaro spindle and they are beefer for a stronger application for trucks. In fact, it is just for trucks. The lower a arm not only connects to the cross member that is included in the kit but the back part of the arm connects to the frame as well. Makes a little bit more sense to me. Less torsion on that arm. The modified 4 link uses arms that are 30" long and they are more stout than most as well. We are going with coil over to enhance performance. When you call NO LIMIT and ask technical questions, you will most likely get to speak to Rob the owner. Nice guy and he knows his stuff. Going to pick up the stuff this week.

Either Wilwood or Baer brakes. 6 or 4 piston front, 4 piston in the rear.

Ford 9 inch with limited slip.

As for power, I have a friend (dont we all) that builds LSx or third gen performance engines for a living. He told me that he can build horsepower CHEAP. I am leaving this decision up to him. He told me to count on 450 to 600 HP and whatever for a trans. We will have to wait and see.

[hotrod1]

I found a guy in the next town that had the front of a cab he was getting rid of. I went over and picked it up for $20. It had those fender mounts that I needed and spare sheet metal that we could use for the firewall fill. We started to cut them off (fender mounts) and clean up our mess and then attach them.

We than started to smooth the firewall. Looked at Kawbe's build and got the nerve up to shave it off. He pulled it off and it looks GREAT, but then again he is a metal smith.

Start by welding up the seam from the inside and then cutting the lip off a little bit at a time and tacking. It looks OK, but I am not thrilled. I guess that is what body filler is for. You have your firewall, internal and external cowl coming together at that point. Interesting work and time consuming. We will see how it comes out.

At this point we contemplated getting everything soda or garnet blasted. I hear soda because it does not warp the metal but it does not get the rust from the inside of the fenders. What would you guys suggest? I found a guy that comes to your house to do it and he cleans up the mess as well. The body looks good and straight from the outside and inside. We hate to take the paint off, but if we are going to do it right, I guess it has to go.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Welcome! It looks like a nice truck to start with.

[hotrod1]

Thanks Cal 58 GMC. I have watched your build for quite some time and have admired it. I was hoping that you were going to be at Brothers this year but I guess not. Thanks for your build. I sure appreciate all that hard work and sharing everything.

[Fat Mike]

The firewall looks good! Did you have to add a piece to make everything flush or did yo just weld in the seam?

[blindman]

if you soda blast make sure you use baking soda made for blasting cars not foodlion soda theres a differnce also prep is key before priming alot of cleaning looks like you offf to a good start

[hotrod1]

We did not add a piece, just welded the seam.

Was thinking of painting the chassis red. Any ideas out there? Has anyone used Hammerite? I want to be able to encapsulate or deal (conversion) with any rust and have a long lasting durable finish that can be touched up in the future and still look good. Maybe too much to ask. I see that a lot are using the POR 15. I could go that way but you have to strip the frame to metal, POR, and then top coat or color. You know how a chassis is on these trucks. They are a work in progress and you may be welding to them or whatever for some time.

What about hole patch in frames. Is this something that should be done or is done by most?

[hotrod1]

Where is everyone getting their bolts from for their rebuild? Body, chassis, etc? What grade and material? Stainless?

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

Where is everyone getting their bolts from for their rebuild? Body, chassis, etc? What grade and material? Stainless?

I get about 90% from McFaden Dale. They have a great selection and are local. I use grade 8 on all the chassis and just about everywhere else also. The extra cost isn't that bad IMHO.
Kim

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

Where is everyone getting their bolts from for their rebuild? Body, chassis, etc? What grade and material? Stainless?

Anything chassis needs grade 8. It's pretty much up to you everywhere else. I've been getting mine from Ace Hardware as I need it. They have more specialty bolts than anyone else near me. Need a left hand thread metric allen head stainless bolt? Ace will have it... The bolts nobody really sees like underdash areas I don't care if they are pretty but stuff like the bolts holding the rear fenders on or the step-to-brace bolts will probably get the stainless treatment. I don't want any chrome bolts anywhere. They just look tacky and are a pain to keep clean so they don't rust. Just my opinion.

[my67chevytruck]

looking good.

[hotrod1]

Ok, Its time for the suspension preparation. It seems like every time you hit this frame with a hammer you have a pile of dirt that has been in there somewhere for up to 50 years.

To prepare the front of the chassis for the No-Limit unit, you need to make some adjustments to the frame and they need to be the same for the top and bottom rail of the frame as well as both right and left frame rail. What we did was to make the changes to the first rail and then trace it onto a board. We then cut that board 1/8 inch short so we could place it onto the other rails and use the plasma cutter to get right on with the cut. Of course you have to do some grinding to finish it off, but they will all match each other well.

Then it was time to fit the boxing plates. They come close but fitting is a must to get them close to the contour. We set the plate on the bottom rail and traced the shape of the bottom of the frame to the bottom of the boxing plate. After cutting and finishing the bottom of the plate we set the plate back on the bottom part of the rail and traced the top rail. Once cut and shaped this will give you overlap on the top and bottom frame rail with the boxing plate. I like to have the plate go half thickness of the frame metal. A bevel on the plate and frame help as well to give you more welding surface to remain after you grind it down.

[hotrod1]

This suspension goes on a little different than most. The cross member is mounted first and then the boxing plates go around it to capture it.

We learned by TIG welding in the cross member a little about this process on an old frame. The weld that you see here came out OK, not great, (it was TIGed) but the other side would not come out at all. After TIG it had a layer of slag on top of it like you were stick welding it. After posting here and talking to many people, it was concluded that that metal has had so many things dropped on it and soaked in oils and junk, that it is forever polluted unless you heat it up to red hot to burn them all out. This will then screw up the temper. In addition to the pollutants, you have old metal, new metal (cross member) and what ever rod you are using. Too much to match. TIG is great when it is clean but not when it is dirty. MIG is the tool of choice.

The boxing plates were tacked in all the way around and then finished up on the top side leaving the bottom later for finish.

[hotrod1]

It is time to c notch the rear. We noticed that the rear hump was all distorted on both sides. We decided to heat it up and use an air chisel from the bottom to pound it back up. It was not easy. Had to make sure to put a metal plate in between the chisel and the frame for protection. Took a lot of effort.

DONT FORGET TO USE YOUR SAFETY GEAR or you will go blind, deaf and unable to breath after you do any of this frame work. Found out the hard way when you nose is all black and your ears ring for hours after doing any grinding.

Found the axle centerline between 36 1/4 and 36 1/2 from the back end of the frame. Mounted the 4 link and then found out where the axle would swing and then marked where we wanted the c notch. We marked it on the boxing plate clamped to the outside of the frame. Cut out both boxing plates and then traced the cut out to the frame and then cut it out with a grinder with a cut off wheel. Not too bad. Not perfect but close.

[hotrod1]

After cutting out the frame and fitting the boxing plates (they came a little short towards the rear from the factory) The c notch was fit and welded in from the inside to the frame. The boxing plate was fit (not perfect around the c notch) and then welded in as well. We did not weld in the sides yet as we wanted to put the frame on a rotisserie first. (We copied Kabwe. He said that it is the greatest thing, and he is right. This is well worth it and will make your job 1000% easier. Dont hesitate just do it. Thanks Kabwe!!!!) A weld is always easier when it can be performed on a horizontal plane.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Looks like you have been busy! It brings back some memories of notching my frame. It's really turning out nice, keep up the great work!

[hotrod1]

Hey Chevyrestoguy. The firewall doner that I have has a few cages that I will be using. My cab is also missing them. In fact, I had to weld the a hex nut that was used (instead of the original cage and nut) to the cab to get the bolt off. It was a rusted mess. I just got lucky that I was able to get this piece of a truck. Can I send you pictures and measurements to help you recreate one?

If you want to see a unbelievable protouring truck that does beat the Camaro's and Corvettes, check out this build. This guy went over the top.

http://hrjinc.com/projects_shop_57_truck.php

[OKGMC4]

I love the HRJ truck If you like that one check this one out...completely different direction but just as many flawless executions...

http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.c...ls.php?album=3