Project Madera: A Jimmy GT

[Wasted Income]

Holy crap that's a lot of switches. Are they eleventy way adjustable? lol

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by Wasted Income

Holy crap that's a lot of switches. Are they eleventy way adjustable? lol

Funny thing is, all that and scooting them front and back is still a manual adjustment, as is changing the shoulder angle relative to the lower back, changing the amount the seat "hugs" you in the lower back bolsters and changing the seat bottom length for thigh support. The blue buttons aren't electric, they are pneumatic, they direct air to different parts of the seat to inflate bladders. Oh and they're heated. Like I said the Holy Grail of car seats.

[skorpioskorpio]

Finally got the front brackets all sorted out. I worked with Kore3 to come up with the extra beefy bracket setup for the CPP modulars and my billet hubs. I had to mill the outside surface flat and consistent on the spindles and through a series of spacers am able to sandwich 2 sets of adapter brackets which should eliminate any concerns of caliper chatter. They are just finger tight together in the pictures so if they don't look perfectly unsquare that's why. The typical setup would only use the bracket furthest from the caliper and what I felt was an uncomfortably long spacer, compounded by what would be another 3/4" to compensate for my hubs. This setup is really really solid.

[skorpioskorpio]

...and a bit of the bad, or maybe just my over perfectionism. Got my rack drop shipped to me from Unisteer and well the dipped in paint look powder coating just looks a little too much like a Pep Boys rebuild for my taste, especially considering I'll be doing my aluminum straight 6 and a dark gray hammered vein powdercoat on the frame and suspension components. This dipped in black look, I think, will look like hell, so back that will be going and I've already ordered a quick ratio Flaming River rack.

The frame got picked up today and will be de-bracketed and de-riveted and de-PO-snot welded in addition to being sand blasted in prep for the Porterbuilt pieces. Those of you that have done a 4wd to 2, what do you do about the front leaf spring mount? It also serves as the mount for the radiator support, seems you can de-rivet off the bottom part but it still leaves that odd bracket there.

[Wasted Income]

Trim it off with the plasma until it looks right.

[jlsanborn]

I'm on for this ride, think it's gonna be really cool! Dunno about the tail lights in the gate but you're the one that has the big picture painted. Props man!

[jbclassix]

I looked at the wiper linkage on my 65 this weekend. It looks like if you have the linkage arms, and build your own rods, you can move the passenger side over.

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

I'm on for this ride, think it's gonna be really cool! Dunno about the tail lights in the gate but you're the one that has the big picture painted. Props man!

Before I found the truck to start with I did this tail rendering using a pic from an ebay truck, maybe a members or former members truck, not sure. I liked the way the 3 light tail looked and on LA Freeways I'd really prefer brutally obvious taillights, which the GM trucks do not have, it's pretty easy for them to fade into your peripheral vision especially in stop and go traffic, while eating a burrito, texting, staring at the "How green is my Prius" display on your dash, checking your hair and reading a script at the same time. ...and I'm putting brakes on the truck that I know are far better than almost anyone that will ever be close behind me. The obvious fear of course is to avoid the fine line between a well executed customization that looks like it belongs and looking like the "Family Truckster" from National Lampoons "Vacation", and I do realize how fine a line this mod is to that.

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

I looked at the wiper linkage on my 65 this weekend. It looks like if you have the linkage arms, and build your own rods, you can move the passenger side over.

That was my thoughts, the cowl panel is, I think, the real issue more so than the linkage. Like I said earlier I'd like to extend the cowl induction hood into the cowl panel, and maybe just keep the vents in the scoop and smooth the outer areas like some of the C3 'Vettes had with their cowl induction hoods. It would be really cool to have the wipers hide behind the scoop stacked but I'm not sure that is possible with the sheer width of the windshield and the wide stance of the pivots.

[skorpioskorpio]

...also some updates, the brakes are all assembled and everything fits great, I did have to file a bit on the spindle where my outer spacers interfered, but it worked out. Seriously heavy duty, I won't be saving any weight there, the spindle, hub, rotor, caliper, center lug adapter all together has to weigh 80-100lbs easily per side. the front sway bar also arrived, drop shipped from Porterbuilt as did the Ridetech Select Coilovers. I'm concerned there in that the front springs are so much heavier than the rear, and it's just a wild guess at this point, but I'm hoping to be much closer to a 50/50 weight distribution when it's all said and done than these trucks typically are, we'll see. Anyway, there is a distinct possibility that I may try and respring the Ridetechs with dual rate Eibach springs at some point anyway.

The Pep Boys rebuild looking rack and pinion got shipped back and now in it's place I have a glorious Flaming River quick ratio rack. If this is an example of their products, I'll probably be doing one of their columns as opposed to the Ididit I was planning on, nice piece, pic attached.



I should have taken pics before I stowed them away, but I also picked up a pair of Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade 3rd row seats. I've attached the ebay pic though. They are pretty cool, they are like individual buckets with each having a cup holder and a little cubby hole so that then they are together it's like a center console between them. They have the integral shoulder belts and I think they will adapt well to a Recaro like makeover to better match the fronts. I think my biggest issue there will be that I really want to use early style aircraft latch seat and shoulder belts in the front and adapting that to the back maybe tricky.



I also packed up my space saver spare wheel before I took a pic of it but I found a new Cadillac XTS spare wheel, 4" wide and will clear the Corvette brakes. Also attached the ebay pic of it. I'll be getting a new center milled so that it will mount on the center lug. still trying to figure out where I'll put it, I may put it under the floor with a well in the top of the tank or maybe in the bed side behind the drivers seat with a suburban well grafted in there, just not sure there is room for a 28" diameter tire there. Another option is under the hood (it is going to be a straight 6) but I'd have to put it on the exhaust side of the engine, just not sure that is a good idea. I was going to go spareless but when I thought about it, being stuck with a flat with a hard to find tire size and a wheel arrangement that pretty much doesn't exist seemed too risky for me, maybe in the end it'll just get thrown in the back and taken out when I need the space.

[thor]

Originally Posted by skorpioskorpio

Before I found the truck to start with I did this tail rendering using a pic from an ebay truck, maybe a members or former members truck, not sure. I liked the way the 3 light tail looked and on LA Freeways I'd really prefer brutally obvious taillights, which the GM trucks do not have, it's pretty easy for them to fade into your peripheral vision especially in stop and go traffic, while eating a burrito, texting, staring at the "How green is my Prius" display on your dash, checking your hair and reading a script at the same time. ...and I'm putting brakes on the truck that I know are far better than almost anyone that will ever be close behind me. The obvious fear of course is to avoid the fine line between a well executed customization that looks like it belongs and looking like the "Family Truckster" from National Lampoons "Vacation", and I do realize how fine a line this mod is to that.

I think what is throwing off the aesthetics (IMHO) in the rendering you did is the repitition of the back-up lights. By shaving those you would clean-up the look. Just a thought. Otherwise, rock on! I'm enjoying the ride so far; very cool concept! Anxious for more and sub'd in to boot.

[MrGraySay]

Originally Posted by skorpioskorpio

Front seats showed up today, I'm quite pleased, how can you not be, they're the holy grail of seats IMO:

What are those from? I dig em & am looking to modify my seats with the something with more leg room. Do they fold forward? What's your seat belt plan?
Posted via Mobile Device

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by MrGraySay

What are those from? I dig em & am looking to modify my seats with the something with more leg room. Do they fold forward? What's your seat belt plan?
Posted via Mobile Device

They were sold aftermarket as Recaro Classic C, These particular ones are out of an early '80s Porsche 930 I was told, supposedly a $8-10K option at the time. These and similar power Recaros were used in Porsches, BMWs, Benzes, Bentleys, Rolls Royces and just about any Italian car whose make ends in an "i". Yes, they fold forward.

I also have another set of the netted headrests that will be going on the Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade seats in the rear, I'll need to redo the frame a bit as the stock rears have headrest post internal supports that are too small a diameter and too close together. The rears will get reupholstered to match the fronts in style. I'd also really like to leather cover and edge stitch most of the exposed plastic on the rears, I just don't know how possible that is. I have shoulder belt loop brackets that attach to the Recaro front headrests that came out of a Trans Am Indy pace car.

As far as belts, the plan at the moment is to put the shoulder belts for the front seats into the side panels, probably right above the front end of the wheel houses so they are there when the truck is topless and enough of an angle to be safe, the guide loops will help make that work. I will probably go with early aircraft style lift latch belts from seatbelt solutions, and will need to send in the back seatbelt sets to be re-buckled to match.

[skorpioskorpio]

So a few updates, the frame has been blasted and de-riveted and is now just 2 rails with body mounts ready for the new suspension. The body tub is completely stripped, and will be mounted on it's temp wheels this weekend (a Harbor Freight folding utility trailer and trailer dolly). I picked up a Hotchkis adjustable rear swaybar to round out the suspension components as well as a Scott's Hotrods remote reservoir master cylinder cap. The Hydroboost master should be ready to ship this week or the beginning of next and at that time I'll get the remote reservoir bottles and proportioning valve ordered from Wilwood. Once I solidify ship dates from Porterbuilt, I will order the B&M trans and the Moser 9". Oh and the fenders will be going to the blaster, probably this week and then to the body shop to graft in the Trans Am extractors, followed by the tailgate (for my crazy taillight mod) and the cowl to smooth and relocate the passenger wiper post to the mystery left hole.

My discard pile is getting pretty small now. The original engine, trans and transfer case is on it's way to being dropped into a Jeep Cherokee. The seats into a Blazer, the suspension into a Jimmy, the tank, mirrors, heater, steering column into various pickups.

[skorpioskorpio]

I've been kind of a slack on my updates to this thread, mostly because most of the recent progress is being done in various shops and not by me. Most of the body is now at the sand blaster (though not the tub itself). The tub has been mounted on it's transport dolly (which is really a Harbor Freight fold up trailer). I've received the hydroboost, CPP master, Scotts Hotrods remote reservoir cover for the master, the Wilwood remote reservoirs, Wilwood portioning valve, Heidts Hotrods pressure relief valve (2 actually I also bought Wasted Incomes unused one) and washer and radiator overflow bottles from Classic Heartbeat.

The hydroboost accumulator interferes with the Scotts under floor bracket and is at the machine shop to resolve that issue, requires milling a clearance cutout in both the main pedal assembly and the C channel bracket that it bolts to so that the accumulator can sit recessed into the frame rail. I bought the proportioning valve with the bracket which I wont be able to use because it would make my brake lines significantly hang down below my frame, a bad idea, so I will need to fabricate a bracket to lay the valve on it's side under the master cylinder. This is really the only way to have the valve below the master and provide clearance. I will also have 3 residual pressure check valves in there. All in all I will have 8 fluid carrying lines all coming out of the underfloor brake doohickey and all this has to fit in a space about the size of a loaf of bread.

I pulled my oil pan off the straight 6, which had been tweaked and mildly damaged from the accident the Envoy it came out of was in. The front differential is actually bolted to the pan and the shafts run through the sump. When I pulled it off the rail was cracked so had to ebay another. Now that new pan is also at the machine shop being sliced leaving just the AC compressor mount, bell housing skirt and 1 3/4" of the top of the pan so it can be converted from a weird 4x4 front sump to a road racing style rear sump using a modified Canyon inline 5 cylinder oil pickup.

My Porterbuilt mild dropmember showed up Monday along with the control arms (which are and inch wider than usual), front tube crossmember, trans crossmember, trailing arms and crossmember and unfortunately a lot of stuff for the rear that is wrong and will be going back to Porterbuilt like bolt in notches for a cinch waisted 2wd frame, and the associated crossmembers for that frame. Porterbuilt also forgot to ship the ball joints (I'll be using the larger 73-87 ones with 73-87 CPP modular drop spindles).

As soon as my ball joints show up I'll mock up the front end, verify measurements (should be 75" tire sidewall to tire sidewall) so I can order my Moser 9" to be the same finished width. I'll be ordering a 31 spline Moser with C-10 mounts, a Wavetrac diff, an aluminum carrier, aluminum pinion support, Ford Torino drum brake ends (what my 13" Z51 Corvette rear disk, caliper and parking brakes are made to fit).

All very complicated.

[hgs_notes]

Ka-ching!

That's a lot of custom fab work and definitely high end for a top flight build. I was just happy to get mine all the same color and to drive reliably. This thing is so many steps beyond what I ever considered. Love watching builds that show me how far a person can really take a vehicle beyond what it was originally intended for.

[jlsanborn]

Looking forward to pics of the braking system. I really appreciate a clean hydraulic install. Got your tube benders and flaring tools handy? This is gonna be a cool ride!

[skorpioskorpio]

Thanks for the encouragement, I'll be getting a Mastercool Hydraulic flaring kit next week along with the 37 degree AN dies, and I'm leaning towards Imperial Benders. I've decided to do most everything in double annealed stainless hardlines and keep braided to a minimum, so I've decided I need to become a master at bending and flaring, we'll see how that goes.

[jlsanborn]

There's a couple schools of thought on bending. I was taught to use centerline and bend radius while a lot of other people use the "take up" method. I'd bet that Imperial bender will come with an instruction sheet based on the centerline method. I've got ACAD my shop PC and use that to sketch up the goofy bends. My -4 bender is from Aeroquip and the rotating handle is also on a swivel, which is nice!

[skorpioskorpio]

The ball joints for the Porterbuilt drop member got here today, so this weekend I'll be able to finally mock up the front end to get a final measurements for the Moser 9". My power steering pump is at Lee's Power Steering getting beefed up to run the Hydroboost and rack, and being fitted with an slick custom aluminum reservoir with individual returns on it so I don't have any tees in the hydraulic lines once it's all put together.

I also need to order the transmission, which I'll be using a new 4L70-E which supposedly will handle more torque than most mild aftermarket rebuilds and cost about the same or even a little less so why not, right? I've read so many iffy reviews about just about every trans rebuilder out there, and the only ones that seem to have more good than bad reviews or the usual TCI, B&M and Hughes all of which are all pricey even for a mild trans.

[skorpioskorpio]

OK, where were we? Oh right, so here's the completed Trans Amified fenders:

As well as a big pile of blasted panels:

(Frame rails and body are blasted as well)

Transmission is being sorted out, have decided to do a 6 speed 4L80E so I'm having a 4L80E case modified (milling off the bellhousing so I can put my 4L60E straight 6 bellhousing on it).

I've also gotten my Ferd 9" from Moser. Aluminum 3rd Member, 5" wider than a stock rearend, Wavetrac diff, all very exciting.

Things are starting to move again so I should be updating this thread more frequently.

[jlsanborn]

Glad to see an update here! Fenders look great!

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Glad to see an update here! Fenders look great!

Thanks for the feedback, I really like how they turned out. All the body curves seemed to line up really well.

[ERASER5]

Some how I missed this one, so I read it all today. And I will admit that my minion alarm did go off a few times. That may be what I like about this build. Different. Just courious about the hydro boost. I would think that the electric power booster (Caddy type) would fit in a tighter place than the hydro. But then it is easy to spend someone elses money.

Oh yea, BEDO BEDO BEDO BEDO.....

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Some how I missed this one, so I read it all today. And I will admit that my minion alarm did go off a few times. That may be what I like about this build. Different. Just courious about the hydro boost. I would think that the electric power booster (Caddy type) would fit in a tighter place than the hydro. But then it is easy to spend someone elses money.

Oh yea, BEDO BEDO BEDO BEDO.....

Well the master is a cast iron Corvette master (well actually a CPP Corvette master), and that works with the hydroboost. I'm going to be using a Scotts Hotrods cover for the master and adding Wilwood remote (additional) reservoirs. The Scotts cover has the provisions for the remotes. My brakes should hold about a liter of brake fluid about double what a typical Corvette would hold. Electric assist seems kind of like new age voodoo to me, probably isn't and lots of things on my project will seem like new age voodoo to most of the members on this forum. Maybe the 'Vette master could be made to work with the Caddy electric booster, I'm not sure but there is lots of resources for hydroboost so that's what I went with.

I have a lot into the brakes on this build, more than is sane perhaps, but I'm pretty content in the quality of the parts and think I've done about the best I could come up with and still have it easily servicable down the road. Most everything breakable is available from multiple vendors and most should even be easily available in the used market for decades, and this is why I did the route I did.