Hmmmm....I'm stuck on what to do next.

[COBALT]

I'm thinking about doing something with the engine, but I don't know what. I have a 1980 4 bolt main 350 that's completely stock. It has stock heads, and doesn't have much horsepower. To make matters worse it has a 1969 327 2bbl intake manifold and Rochester 2bbl carburetor (with choke pull-off) off of a Camero, El Camino, or whatever, and I've been fighting it since I bought the truck to keep it in tune. Plus, it has what look like the original exhaust manifolds off the original 1969 350 that used to be in the truck, and they've taken some abuse. I'd rather pull them out before they become a problem.

SO....this is what I'm thinking in terms of bolt-ons:

1. Hooker Competition Headers. My exhaust is 2 1/2" from before the mufflers back (straight out the back). I'm thinking 1 5/8" to 2 1/2" collectors would be perfect. The exhaust pipes would be replaced from the collectors to the mufflers.

2. Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (non EGR). A basic dual plane one (2101) that'll take a square bore carburetor. Should I go with a performer RPM (7101)???

3. Edelbrock Performer 600 CFM Square Bore Carburetor (Electric choke - 1406). I know a lot of you have had mixed results with this carburetor, but I'm stepping UP to something basic, so I'm willing to try it. How does the choke setup in a '69 convert to an electric choke?

What do you all think?

[Randy70C-10]

Going from 2 to 4 barrel will make the biggest noticeable difference. I'd stick with the Performer, it's a better all-around intake for the street.

[Long Knight]

No more choke issues, just hook up the hot wire to your ignition switch or (like I did) to the fuse panel. Some people hook up the hot wire to the alt. This is for those who live in low crime areas (unlike me) who can leave their car running and not be in it. Idea is, if it is hooked up to alt and engine dies, choke stops opening. If it is hooked to switch, keeps opening and is mispositioned for engine temp when restarted. Also, I have a lindicator light telling me the choke is getting power (overboard for concern, I know). If you have a lever or pull choke, replace it with the Nitro Button!!!

[stllookn]

Vortec heads, manifold, carb and headers...you will not notice the difference! Do not forget the heads!!!! Check Scroggin Dickey for the kit or call around to some junk yards. The last post I saw claimed a JY purchase price of $300 for used heads. New ones are only $476!

[COBALT]

ttt (gotta get all of the afternoon-ers' opinions)

[neonlarry]

If you are going to use the Edelbrock Performer Carb, why not get the EPS manifold instead of the 2101? It is a new design and works better with the performer carb. Also, if you want to get heads, the World Products S/R Torquer heads are about as good as the Vortech heads, and cheaper too.

[lofly'a]

if you use the performer package, use the cam that goes with it. it'll wake up that mouse a little and give you good driveability and won't kill you on gas mileage.

[HotRod929]

Is there something wrong with the performer RPM package. I dont see many people recomending it. I am thinking about putting one on my truck and was wondering why chose the regular performer over the RPM? THanks

HotRod

[Longhorn Man]

THe RPM is just as good as the lower performer...just made for something differnt.
He is bolting this to a stock, old engine. The RPM is made for higher RPMs and a stock engine may/will run out of breath before the intake is doing much work.
With a stock cam....stick with the performer.
If you have a mild yet hoter cam...step up to the RPM.
You want to match your whole package. If you don't, it'll be a huge disapointment. and that means from carb, all the way to the rear gears...it all has to work together.

[neonlarry]

There is really nothing wrong with the performer RPM stuff. The intake manifold is really good, and I have heard good stuff about the heads too. The performer RPM cam is a bit too big for a heavy truck though. All of that stuff is more suited to a engine with higher compression, better heads, and a higher stall speed (for an automatic)

[BUXMAN66]

i agree w/ you guys.got a perfomance power pkg. on my truck and it's great.best for all around driveability.rpm pkg. and you'll need to go to a higher stall converter.rpm cam is a little hotter cam,needs higher rpm's for it's power curve,which doesn't match up well w/ the stock t.c.(900-1100 rpm's).you'll be constantly putting it in neutral at stoplights,etc.......w/your stock config.best bet is the performer power pkg. (cam,lifters,intake,carb.and might as well spring for the double roller timing chain while youre at it,you're right there anyhow.)best of luck!

[COBALT]

Good info here, but I'm really limited in terms of having the truck out of commission for any length of time. What I should really be doing is pulling the 4 bolt main out of my parts truck and tearing that down to the deck, and building with that, but I'm being impatient. I want some performance gains now without having to worry about building another engine. This truck has been out of commission for 3 months, and I have to start using it to work on my house, so anything I do now has to be restricted to weekend stuff only. No "several weeks at dad's in a row" for a while.

Seems like the REAL problem are the heads and cam. Yep, those heads are stock, and they don't allow for much push. The cam is basic run-of-the-mill, and since I don't have much experience with either I'd be fishing in the dark with coming up with a good valvetrain/cam combo. I mean I'd do ok with getting each, but I've heard you can stick yourself with too big of a cam, or heads that provide too much of a charge, etc....

Anyway, the cam/head discussion is really trivial right now anyway, because I simply need the truck now, so I'm back to bolt-ons. I'll check out the other manifold someone mentioned, but my gut is telling me to start basic and save the super fancy options later when I build my small block.

Thanks guys...

[694X4]

If you are going to build a motor anyways later I would just do intake, carb. and maybe headers. Remember if you do headers you are going to need to have the exhaust cut and the flange welded on.

[Randy70C-10]

Like he said, just bolt on an intake, 4 barrel carb and some headers. It can be done in one day.

[70 longbed]

HEADS. Bolt on, the same time that you do the intake. A set of the vortech heads will make quite a difference. After rebuilding my engine, it was the heads that put me to the 400hp mark.

There is a series of articles in Chevy High Performance magazines to take a 350, and add power with bolt on equipment for performance. Not sure of the issues, but if you are interested, I can look them up for you.

The vortech heads will make a difference in the intake that you buy, or you can modify your intake bolt holes for the different angle.

[crazy longhorn]

I would go for the bolt ons also, considering that the truck will be used while working on the house. I like the edelbrock stuff, & have the complete RPM package.....but with a comp XE 268 substituted for cam......the rpm pcs are too much for a daily driver/hauler tho. As far as intake, Im not a fan of dual pattern stuff......if you are running a squarebore carb,I feel that its better to have a square bore intake. I think the 600 edelbrock carb would be a nice addition, & agree with neonlarry on the eps manifold. you can always add heads & cam later, or do a complete overhaul & use thepcs you have on any conventional bolt style heads. IMHO, the vortecs work good on mild to medium apps, but arent that cost effective at the higher perf levels due to the extra machinework,springs,special rockers,& intake. At any rate, good luck with your project....crazy AL

[Longhorn Man]

Remember, if you just do intake carb and exhaust...it will help out quite a bit now....and can be swapped onto the next engine when the time comes.