"hot wire" power windows

[superdav]

Ive searched and couldn't find anything
I made the mistake of tearing my 84 truck apart before rolling the windows down and realized that yesterday when I started to take the windows out. All the wiring in front of the firewall is rolled up and zip tied so putting the battery back in is a little too much trouble but I have a few power supplies of various voltage laying around.
I am far from an electrician so wiring diagrams are foreign to me
Do i power the pnk/blk org/blk then power the brn/wht for passenger and drk/blu for driver they will go down?

this correct diagram?

[RustyPile]

With so much disconnected harness, the easiest way is to unplug at the motor and apply power directly to the motor.. You can use light gauge jumpers from a battery or your power supply. If the window doesn't go down, simply reverse the jumpers and re-apply the power.. Do this for each motor until the windows go down..

[87chevy.com]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

With so much disconnected harness, the easiest way is to unplug at the motor and apply power directly to the motor.. You can use light gauge jumpers from a battery or your power supply. If the window doesn't go down, simply reverse the jumpers and re-apply the power.. Do this for each motor until the windows go down..

Or simply plug the power window harness back to the door harness and give the power wire that goes into the fuse box power and ground the ground terminal and use the window switch. Your gonna short something out if you you try to use jumper wires at the motor. It's a pain to get the connector in, let alone putting 2 loose wires on it.
Clint

[superdav]

Well I unplugged the door harness and tried a 16 V power supply plugged into it and it barely made a click, next was a 12V battery the window made a noise like it wanted to move but didn’t
Over to the passenger side and it would click, didn’t even try to move
Any tips on getting the damn thing apart with a freaking window up?

ETA the truck has been sitting for 10 years and the windows sucked hard when I parked it but the regulator looks in good shape with no rust

[Andy4639]

You want the brown wire going to the passenger side window to have 12 volts and the ground wire connected.
Dark blue for drivers side and ground.

If your hooking into the door jam it should be a red/white wire that feeds 12 volts to both switches. The grounds should be in place if the doors haven't been messed with. Just use the window switches to operate them both.

[87chevy.com]

Originally Posted by superdav

Well I unplugged the door harness and tried a 16 V power supply plugged into it and it barely made a click, next was a 12V battery the window made a noise like it wanted to move but didn’t
Over to the passenger side and it would click, didn’t even try to move
Any tips on getting the damn thing apart with a freaking window up?

ETA the truck has been sitting for 10 years and the windows sucked hard when I parked it but the regulator looks in good shape with no rust

Between these last fee posts if it doesn't work, motors are shot or regulators binding.

[superdav]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

You want the brown wire going to the passenger side window to have 12 volts and the ground wire connected.
Dark blue for drivers side and ground.

If your hooking into the door jam it should be a red/white wire that feeds 12 volts to both switches. The grounds should be in place if the doors haven't been messed with. Just use the window switches to operate them both.

yes

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

Between these last fee posts if it doesn't work, motors are shot or regulators binding.

what I've concluded

[superdav]

If I get time today I’m going to try to take it out with it up. Anybody done this without a sawzall?

[starterman99]

Take the motor assembly off of the regulator then the window will slide down. Just wedge something against the glass when you take the motor off so glass does not fall and break something or catch a hand that is in the door.

[superdav]

I lubed the hell out of it and let it sit for a day then used an 18 volt charger that put out about 24 volts, I had to help it them down but they moved! There was dirt mixed with grease in the inside rail plus the motors suck but it went down
Thanks everybody

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by superdav

I lubed the hell out of it and let it sit for a day then used an 18 volt charger that put out about 24 volts, I had to help it them down but they moved! There was dirt mixed with grease in the inside rail plus the motors suck but it went down
Thanks everybody

Glad you got them down sir! At least you know now what you have to replace.