1966 SWB Beginner Bag Build

[dawsonthompson]

Finally got pictures of my step notch I welded in. Also finally got around to installing my 12 bolt I had built with a new posi unit with the eatin clutch style that my local gear shop installed with new seals and u joints. Also got my adjustable tracbar mocked up and my axle placed where I feel is best.. Next step is installing my bag kit which is where I did cheap out. I purchased the 700 dollar bag kit on eBay the air slamit brand. Included everything bags, bag plates, compressors, tanks, valves, hoses, switches, etc. I plan on mounting the rear bags off the side of the frame connecting to the top of the trailing arm or a bracket coming off the trailing arm in hopes of being able to lower all the way till the trailing arm hits the frame. For the front I just plan on replacing the spring with the bags and using a 2 inch drop spindle. I also intend on using a 2 inch block for the axle to kinda close of the gap between my notch seeing how I didn't cut it down

Here's the pics, the one is just a bed side mocked up in place and the frame sitting hitting the trailing arms

[dawsonthompson]

Pictures-

[dawsonthompson]

Finally got my trac bar mounted and in where I think is good, it seems to articulate pretty well up and down

First two photos should be the truck lifted pretty high and the last few photos the trailing arms almost touching the frame

[slimjim66]

looks good man, if your trailing arms are almost touching the frame why would you make your notch that big?

[Bomp]

Welcome, I'm in and following along.

[dawsonthompson]

Originally Posted by slimjim66

looks good man, if your trailing arms are almost touching the frame why would you make your notch that big?

In the future I wanna ditch the trailing arm and 4 link it. Just wasn't ready to go that route yet

[slimjim66]

Originally Posted by dawsonthompson

In the future I wanna ditch the trailing arm and 4 link it. Just wasn't ready to go that route yet

Gotcha, keep posting pics
Posted via Mobile Device

[dawsonthompson]

Does anybody have any pictures of their truck aired all the way out using the trailing arms and just placing bags in place of springs up front? If so could you post the picture or link to the thread

[LVPhotos]

Originally Posted by dawsonthompson

Does anybody have any pictures of their truck aired all the way out using the trailing arms and just placing bags in place of springs up front? If so could you post the picture or link to the thread

Old pics. Full pic is ride height, bag only rear, t-bar front

[rudyyloverboiii]

killer build! I would love to get me a short bed and do the same.

[dawsonthompson]

So quick question just attended a local car show and saw a truck with the rear height I'd like to achieve he has the same notch however he said he used a different trailing arm that doesn't hit the frame or hit the frame as much, he said it was from porterbuilt. However what I don't understand is the way the trailing arms mount to the rearend how can they not hit the frame can somebody shed light on this?

[The Rocknrod]

Probably lowering blocks and being tube instead of square.

[LVPhotos]

My Porterbuilt have a 1" drop built in with 3" available

[dawsonthompson]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

My Porterbuilt have a 1" drop built in with 3" available

Oh ok awesome thanks for the pictures too the porterbuilt and the similar cpp trailing arms are a little more than I'm looking to spend right now I think I'm going to leave the stock arms and just modify my bags to mount off my notch bridge and too my axle. Then later down the road change the trailing arms out or do a 4 link.

[dawsonthompson]

Here was some photos of some trucks from the car show not the best quality or angles just some quick snaps I took.

[LVPhotos]

You will want a least a 2" block to keep axle from being pushed forward in the arc.

[dawsonthompson]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

You will want a least a 2" block to keep axle from being pushed forward in the arc.

Ok quick question when I go to mount the bag plates should I mock the plates up at the distance the bags say are ride height which is five inches for me and will the plates be angled or welded straight

[LVPhotos]

Bags are happier straight. Build mounts for ride height with a psi range you want to run. I run around 40 to 45. The arc of rear will determine a lot. The lower you go the more the axle gets pushed forward. The 2 " blocks will help correct trailing arm angle and get back some center. Then you can move trailing arm mount crossmember back. I dont know about the ladder frame but on my 62 x frame I had to do a 2 piece shaft.

[dawsonthompson]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

Bags are happier straight. Build mounts for ride height with a psi range you want to run. I run around 40 to 45. The arc of rear will determine a lot. The lower you go the more the axle gets pushed forward. The 2 " blocks will help correct trailing arm angle and get back some center. Then you can move trailing arm mount crossmember back. I dont know about the ladder frame but on my 62 x frame I had to do a 2 piece shaft.

So your thinking I would also have to move the trailing arm mount back after I establish ride hide even with the 2 inch block to make the axle better centered in my notch or my wheel well?

[LVPhotos]

The lower you go the more the axle gets into the arc. This puts the tire into the fender at forward edge. My arms are about 1" longer than stock, and adjustable. My trailing arm mounts are not moveable with the x frame. Best bet, hang arms and cycle to see how much movement is in the arms. You will see a push fwd as the truck goes lower

[dawsonthompson]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

The lower you go the more the axle gets into the arc. This puts the tire into the fender at forward edge. My arms are about 1" longer than stock, and adjustable. My trailing arm mounts are not moveable with the x frame. Best bet, hang arms and cycle to see how much movement is in the arms. You will see a push fwd as the truck goes lower

See a push forward as in the axle going off center correct?

[LVPhotos]

Yep.

[kieth]

all you need to do is add a 1.5" spacer between the crossmember & the front trailing arm bracket. when you reinstall the bracket rotate it 180 degrees. this changes the angularity on the driveline. this centers the rear axle in the rear wheel well....

[dawsonthompson]

Originally Posted by kieth

all you need to do is add a 1.5" spacer between the crossmember & the front trailing arm bracket. when you reinstall the bracket rotate it 180 degrees. this changes the angularity on the driveline. this centers the rear axle in the rear wheel well....

so your saying space out and flip over the part the trailing arm bolts to with the bushing and stuff on the crossmember

[dawsonthompson]

just a quick update, I have decided to ditch the bag off the trailing arm idea and am now going to just build my rear bag brackets out of 3/16 plate and mount them off axle to the bars on my notch. However I am afraid that since i never cut down my notch i might have to as another cross bar to allow the bags to sit at the 5 inch ride height that is if i mount in front of axle. Which leads to my next question would there be any gains from mounting the bags in front of the axle or on top of the axle?. Either way Plan on starting this either the end of the week or next weekend just been super busy with work this week but i will make sure to post plenty of pictures!!