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Old 03-15-2019, 01:12 AM   #76
'68OrangeSunshine
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

I guess a Ford shroud might be better than nothing, but I'd rather use those cones veterinarians put on a dog's neck to keep him from chewing his stitches open.
Radiator clamps come in a couple different styles. The ones for 4-tier cores are different from the thinner ones.
Look at the rubber insulation on the lower brackets. Sometimes they need to be built up or shaved down to get the radiator in the optimum position.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:53 PM   #77
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

That's the spirit.

My truck is now complete , got the C and put on, put a bunch of LocTite on it.


When I wanted to drive it, new battery was completely dead. Friend said the voltage regulator could be bad, after I explained how the headlights were flickering. So I tried to unscrew, discovered the rubber nut things were shot, had to tear off the rubber to get at the embedded nuts! Also found that NAPA had two units, the cheap one made in China weighed about half as much, splurged on the expensive one.


Back to NAPA, those rubber bushings cost over $5 WTF! Ace for the bolts.

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Old 03-16-2019, 11:48 AM   #78
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

New task today, figuring out how to remove the aluminum trim, and put on the new taillight trim. I see there is frustration about using new reproduction parts, again, not going there.....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ail+light+trim
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Old 03-16-2019, 03:43 PM   #79
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

I have a NAPA EVR on my '71 Jimmy. It's been on a while, no problems so far. I think it's lifetime guaranteed.
On the '68 Stepside, the EVRs came from Checker Auto, now O'Reilly's, are also warrantied for life, Borg-Warner, and Made in USA, but have a higher failure rate. I keep changing them out.

I also found that rubber grommets on both sides of the radiator bulkhead, around 1/4''-20 carriage bolts work better than replacing the OEM fasteners.

The Stepside is a Chevy, and I have "Lazy Vowel Syndrome" where the Es tend to droop down at 45*. I did steal an E from the '67 Suburban's hood. The GMC letters on the Jimmy's hood are really on there.
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Old 03-16-2019, 04:57 PM   #80
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Well, I have an electrical issue now, will need to get someone who knows something to help me out.

Meanwhile, I did something that a dummy like me can manage, repairing some of the aluminum trim. One of the tailgate pieces was really messed up, so took off and hammered enough to straighten out. I also put on the taillight trim that I got from this forum.

Removed the original trim, I know it's different looking than what I got.


No surprise the clips look 51 years old. Kept the tailgate one in place.


Inventory of reusable clips, I'm lucky.


I hammered the "new" trim enough to straighten, and steel wool cleaned up.


Some of the threads I read, 3M tape seemed to work, so I'm giving it a shot.



Finished, looks good enough for government work.
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:34 PM   #81
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Looks good.
The 'eyebrow-only' trim pieces are 67-68. The boxed look ones are 69-72. I have the later style on my '71 GMC, but the flapping steel belt from a blown RR tire took out the passenger side one and the right half of the tailgate icing, one hot day on the Mesa Freeway 60.
I took off the woodgrained beltline trim from my '71 Jimmy, and also changed out the side markers from Deluxe [skinny] to Standard. Matches my pickup and IMO presents a brighter signal profile for other drivers at night. I didn't like the trim, and some pieces were falling off. Again, it looks cleaner when parked by the Srepside.
Personally, I will be able to sleep well at night even though I know you have anachronistic taillight trim way out there in Prescott. But I bet there are people on this forum who could not.
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:39 PM   #82
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

With advice from my neighbor, think I tracked down the short.

First thing, made a tool. Previous owner had the wiper in the headlight hole, headlight below.


The important button to get the headlight knob out.


Headlight switch had the red wire spliced in, but is a dead end.


No idea what this switch supposed to be for, it was mounted in the wiper hole. Yellow wire spliced for this.


I know this is the plug for the heater control, because I removed it. But no idea why the yellow wire was spliced in.


Mystery wire.


Because of the way the wiring harness is made up, I couldn't relocate the wiper switch to the right side of the panel. The wiper switch was one of the first new parts I got, so it's in. Had to Dremel the hole bigger so it would fit.
I really want to repaint the dash, someday.


Since the floor is rusted junk, and I don't plan to weld in new metal, I ground off the gas pedal pegs. I'm thinking of using Eastwood rust repair product, and something like a bed liner over the floor, better than getting cheap rubber junk that will self-destruct in a few years.

Eastwood:
https://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:01 PM   #83
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Wow, you young CroMagnon toolmakin' whipper-snappers are polluting the Primordial Swamp with your inventions! Us Neanderthals had to make do with the tips of an old pair of needle-nosed pliers for turning switch/knob bezels... [Which are damn hard to chisel out of flint.] My favorite is a pair of SOG Paratool folding multi-pliers which break over above the handles and fold back into the tool. This allows the handles to work at 90* degrees. Can't find this artifact currently.

Lights switch below the Wiper/Washer switch is normal for '67-'68 MY.

It depends on what you're used to for best Driver ergonomics. I was driving my '68 for 20 years before I got the '71 Jimmy. Sometimes I grab the wrong control when not looking. I'm tempted to move the controls around on a major cockpit overhaul.
I'd install a 16'' 3-Spoke 67-68 wheel after I refurbish it and paint it black, move the Wiper switch over to the left side, drop the Lights switch below it. Move the Choke knob up one slot and install a manual Throttle knob below it.
Also upgrade the gauges: Nordskog digital Voltmeter, AutoMeter mechanical Temp Indicator, Vacuum and Oil Pressure gauges, and AutoMeter Tach. I have these gauges, just never installed them.
I would then have a faked '68 looking dash -- two years before GMC debuted the Jimmy.

BTW, the blue paint on your Chevy dash is interesting. To my knowledge Chevy alweays painted the dash panels India Black. GMC had a habit of paintinng them to match interior color. Since my GMC's interior was black anyway, I never knew this, until I found this Forum. Your dash panel may have been cannibalized out of a GMC.
Looking closely, the chrome plating tells me that's '69 and later Dash. 67-68s were painted silver [or Fawn] on the sides, and had the Wiper/Washer above the Lights switch.
So PO changed out the dash, keeping the early switch positions.[If he couldn't read anyway why switch the labels?] Maybe upgraded to the 7-gauge Deluxe panel from the 3-hole Standard panel. Who knows?
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Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 03-17-2019 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 03-17-2019, 11:05 PM   #84
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Quote:
Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine View Post
Wow, you young CroMagnon toolmakin' whipper-snappers are polluting the Primordial Swamp with your inventions!
[...]

BTW, the blue paint on your Chevy dash is interesting. To my knowledge Chevy alweays painted the dash panels India Black. GMC had a habit of paintinng them to match interior color. Since my GMC's interior was black anyway, I never knew this, until I found this Forum. Your dash panel may have been cannibalized out of a GMC.
Looking closely, the chrome plating tells me that's '69 and later Dash. 67-68s were painted silver [or Fawn] on the sides, and had the Wiper/Washer above the Lights switch.
So PO changed out the dash, keeping the early switch positions.[If he couldn't read anyway why switch the labels?] Maybe upgraded to the 7-gauge Deluxe panel from the 3-hole Standard panel. Who knows?
I already made a steering wheel puller before for the other truck. I have well used needle nosed pliers, didn't think of that! The other truck had been repainted, found original color on steering column. So far, no such evidence. The wiring harness had a MADE IN MEXICO tag on it, PO may have gotten the wrong year (if it was replaced), it also has the curved terminal that goes at the column but is loose under there.

Funny you noticed the dash is different. When I looked at the Owners Manual, noticed the turn signal lights should be in the center gauge. Reason I looked, wanted to know how to turn dome light on, NOTHING. I'm not putting new gauges in, that violates my Cheapskate code.


I was getting tired of the loose wires along the sill, used bailing wire, zip tie, and Liquid Nails (left-over tube is still good) to secure. I know this is ghetto, but the cost of just the floor metal is out of my league, much less cost of labor. I also noticed the aluminum is corroding from dielectric action (that the correct term?). This should suffice until I play the lottery.


The dome light was hanging by one snap-in, the other had broken out. I know these are fragile as hell, so no hammer allowed. Squirted Liquid Nails into the broken hole.


The dash under the ash tray had been bent in, ash tray hardly worked. I cut a scrap angle iron that happened to have a hole already, put in the eye bolt found in my stash, found a foundation stake, and used the bed frame scrap over a rag on the dash, to pull back out. Sorry, I could not hold everything in position *and* take a picture.


Now the ash tray works so well, it might come out when accelerating. Straightened the gauge too, very important.
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:32 AM   #85
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

A rig that much backwoods-engineered needs a big blue Pratt and Whitney sticker on iits glovebox.
Oh no. Dick Dale died. I used to listen to the Deltones on the cassette player cruizing in the Stepside. He's done his last live set and left the building.
Now I have a Radio Delete plate and a Magellan GPS taped to it.
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Old Yesterday, 02:33 AM   #86
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Yea.... there are some holes that need to be covered. LOL

I will be getting a new windshield someday, no hurry since the cracks are far right. Getting a junkyard mirror will have to wait, but for now I rigged this up. I got the mirror for a '57 Chevy that I had, because that mirror was small; the plastic housing self-destructed since then, but I kept the glass. Some scrap steel, cedar block, 3M tape, this should work good enough.


The battery has been going dead, thought I had a short. Thought it might be a good idea to have NAPA check the alternator before investigating further. Wasn't putting' out! I'm taking pictures of everything before removing, good thing for a hack like me.


New alternator.


I was thinking of taking off the front trim around the headlights, to unbend. But after prying up about an 1/8", looked like they aren't snap in.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...+aluminum+trim
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...+aluminum+trim
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=588591
Yikes, bolts way up inside? Think I'll pass.
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Old Today, 02:13 AM   #87
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Since I'm having electrical gremlin syndrome, got tired of unbolting the terminal to keep the battery from draining. So I added this new cut-off switch.



When I pulled into NAPA, noticed the turn signal dash light was working, got out and the front right turn signal was working, when it wasn't before. So that's good news.
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Old Today, 04:48 PM   #88
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Sometimes they heal themselves if you treat 'em right.

I have detaching Negative terminals on the batteries in my trucks.

To adjust the headlamp focus, you pull the 4 screws holding the headlight bezels, [and put them in a safe place,] then use a phillips head screwdriver to work the adjuster screws for Up/Down and Left/Right to move the ''sweetspot'' of the beam to the desired orientation. Using a drill gun with a phillips bit works faster, if they are way out of focus.
Blasting against a wall maybe 50 feet away, with the truck level, is a good place to see where your beams hit.
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