Replacing floor braces, rockers etc

[jrusher]

So just in the middle of an ls swap on my 65 and the more I look at my front cab floor supports and rest of rot the more I realize how bad an unsafe it is . I picked this truck up in Oklahoma last spring .
Anyways this is what I’m dealing with few pics attached . The front cab mount supports are totally gone an collapsing the rears could be patched in . Needs inner outer rockers , kick panels, floor braces, probably A pillar pieces and floor pans . The drivers side foot area rot goes up quite aways not sure if there’s patch panels for these areas ?
So thought about a complete floor but don’t really want to pull cab so I might just tackle it with cab on frame an lift one side at a time an do The floor braces. I know this is a ton of work I’ve done some floor work on my Chevelle and it wasn’t a lot of fun but now is the time to tackle this before I put me engine etc back in.
Any tips on what to tackle first would be greatly appreciated
This is what I was thinking of doing first
- cross brace cab
- a pillar patches if needed
- then front floor brace/support complete right to cab mount
- rear cab floor support
- floor pan
- kick panel
- then work back towards rockers

[jrusher]

Heres a few of the floor supports , the fronts need total replacement the rears i could probably patch them in. Have to patch behind front wheels on firewall/toe board area as well

[72HuggerK20]

Just curious why you don't want to pull the cab? It's not that hard. There's like 3 wiring connections, take the master cylinder and the steering column off, and 4 bolts. Takes like 2 hours. I did the whole floor on my 72, and it was definitely a good decision. I feel a lot better about it now.

[jrusher]

After taking to a few different body guys they all suggested to keep as much of the factory floor as possible an not replace whole floor. Most of my floor is solid except foot area and braces. I’m gonna try lift one side at a time first an see how that goes for brace replacement if needed I”ll pull cab . I have a 2 post lift in my shop which makes things so much easier

[mongocanfly]

with a 2 post lift then pulling the cab for repair should be a nobrainer...

[72HuggerK20]

Replacing the floor entirely with an OEM-style part is definitely better than patching here and there. There will be no rust, no random weld seams to cause distortion and stress points, and it is easier to install. Not to mention that it takes half the time to do.

[cornerstone]

What he said.^^^ Plus you really need new bushings. It sounds like its much harder to replace the entire floor with one piece but its not! the new floor is under 500. when its on sale and the labor time will be less than half of how much time it will take to "patch" your floor.

[mongocanfly]

^^^×3^^^

[slowcpe]

My floor isn’t as bad as that on my ‘67 and I’ve been told by many to just replace the entire floor. Seems way easier for me.

[jrusher]

I just finished sandblasting bunch of floor an toe boards an I’m going to grab a one piece floor tomorrow. There $1100 up here if I bought all the pieces I need separately would be around $800 . Cab is coming off

[cornerstone]

[jrusher]

Grabbed floor today. Braces cab up an off with it

[mongocanfly]

sweet looking floor pan. ...I don't think you'll regret it...

[jrusher]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

sweet looking floor pan. ...I don't think you'll regret it...

Ya it’s a dynacor hopefully fits good . Almost got the old one out

[slowcpe]

Very nice! I can't wait for the day the floor gets replaced in my '67.

[jrusher]

What does a guy use in between cab/floor flanges besides weld on primer ? Looked like there was seam sealer inside cab on floor an the firewall joint ?

[72HuggerK20]

If there was seam sealer originally, it needs it again. I'd also spray the entire underside of your new floor with some sort of undercoating.

[jrusher]

Originally Posted by 72HuggerK20

If there was seam sealer originally, it needs it again. I'd also spray the entire underside of your new floor with some sort of undercoating.

I didn’t see any sealer in between the flanges only inside the cab at the tranny tunnel area there was a bead layed on top of the joint. Just wanna make sure . I’m ready to mount up new floor but have to sand inside cab while it’s on it’s back first

[mongocanfly]

the seam sealer on mine was put on after it was assembled....you wouldn't want it between the joints if you have to weld them..that's where the weld thru primer comes in...

[72HuggerK20]

I'd probably at least seam seal it after it's welded in from both the top and bottom sides. Also spray the insides of your new rockers and cab corners with undercoating before you weld them on too. Also some cavity wax with a wand kit helps prevent corrosion.

[jrusher]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

the seam sealer on mine was put on after it was assembled....you wouldn't want it between the joints if you have to weld them..that's where the weld thru primer comes in...

Right on that’s what I figured just wanted to make sure . Thx

[mongocanfly]

keep in mind seam sealer needs to at least have a coat of primer put down first...it doesn't need to be put dtm

[jrusher]

Was hoping to put floor in place an tack it up but have to sand inside of cab and fix rust/holes in roof outer/inner skin from an old antenna. Tempted to pop a perfect skin off a spare roof I have

[CUDA8U]

i would get the whole cab acid dipped and go from there.

[jrusher]

Originally Posted by CUDA8U

i would get the whole cab acid dipped and go from there.

Not doing a restoration.
Keeping the old exterior paint etc . Inside will be solid after this . I’ve gone through whole drivetrain , suspension, ps, pb etc . Just built a ls for it as well