Is this the right tool for the job? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

2nova2 · 10-29-2002, 11:38 AM

To remove spindle locking nuts for rotor removal 90 3/4 ton 4X4

Mudder · 10-29-2002, 03:00 PM

thats what you use on the older trucks (70's). but have never had a newer one apart. Bet theres not much difference.

MStokes · 10-29-2002, 03:16 PM

That looks just like the one I bought recently to remove the hubs on my 72. If I remember correctly, the packaging indicated it was for GM vehicles. If that is the case you should be good to go.

Blazer1970 · 10-29-2002, 04:45 PM

Not 100% sure about the '90, but all the front axles I have seen use the smaller 4 prong socket. That looks like the one for a rear ff 14 bolt.

MStokes · 10-29-2002, 04:54 PM

Now that I think about it, mine does only have 4 prongs that key into the locking ring. The one for Ford's may have had 6 keys.

2nova2 · 10-29-2002, 05:15 PM

So is it 6 prong or 4 prong? I believe the front end to be a 10 bolt corporate with auto lock hubs. Before i start the work i want to make sure i have the proper tools. The Napa guy said the 6 prong is for ford and chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 but i want confirmation.

MStokes · 10-29-2002, 05:34 PM

The one I bought at NAPA was for GM vehicles and had 4 prongs. I remember seeing one for Ford's that had 6 prongs. There were no date specifications on the packaging. I would think your's would take the 4 prong. It doesn't take much to get things torn apart down to the locking ring to verify. If you want to have it on hand before you start, I would go with the 4 prong and if by chance it is not correct, you can always return it and get the one you know you need at that time.

Just a warning, mine was around $23 and I think the 6 prong one was substanially more.

79 K20 · 10-29-2002, 07:12 PM

As the other guys have said I'm not sure for a '90 but for my '79 it was a four prong tool. I was looking at buying one to and it was the same 6 prong one you had pictured. I made my own.

Blue_71 · 10-29-2002, 11:34 PM

i dont know about the front axle but the rear FF on my truck is a 6 prong

**JIMs70GMC** · 10-30-2002, 07:05 AM

My 85 10 bolt front axle used the 4 prong type. The same tool also fits my 70 dana44 8 lug axle also.

2nova2 · 10-30-2002, 11:02 AM

Ok i guess its gonna be the 4 prong, let the work begin. Is the first step well after the wheel is off to remove a big spring clip and spring? my chiltons doesn't seem to say that, but it looks like i have to remove locking hub stuff in order to get to the big locking nut. Any place on the web the will give me a step by step or should i buy a gm manual. I thought i was mechanically inclined but i don't want mess up the auto hub stuff just want to put new rotors and pads on.

MStokes · 10-30-2002, 03:34 PM

When I did mine a couple of weeks ago, it was the first time I had ever taken a manual locking hub apart. It is pretty straight forward especially once you get all the parts out so that you can see them. I was following directions in a Haynes manual and it was very accurate as to the parts and steps that I had to follow. Make sure you closely follow the directions for putting it back together. There is a set proceedure for torque on the locknut when you reinstall.

Good Luck.

10-29-2002, 11:38 AM	#1
2nova2 Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 615	Is this the right tool for the job? To remove spindle locking nuts for rotor removal 90 3/4 ton 4X4 __________________ 72 GMC Burb barn door 4X4 350/350 PS PB Tilt ( gone but not forgooten) 64 Chevy II V8 Loaded Wagon 2004 Chevy 2500 HD Sonoma County, Northern CA

10-29-2002, 03:00 PM	#2
Mudder Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: East Central, MO Posts: 11,339	I know thats what you use on the older trucks (70's). but have never had a newer one apart. Bet theres not much difference.

10-29-2002, 03:16 PM	#3
MStokes Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Meridian, Idaho Posts: 164	That looks just like the one I bought recently to remove the hubs on my 72. If I remember correctly, the packaging indicated it was for GM vehicles. If that is the case you should be good to go. __________________ 1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted)

10-29-2002, 04:45 PM	#4
Blazer1970 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Old Mission, MI, USA Posts: 2,510	Not 100% sure about the '90, but all the front axles I have seen use the smaller 4 prong socket. That looks like the one for a rear ff 14 bolt. __________________ Tim

10-29-2002, 04:54 PM	#5
MStokes Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Meridian, Idaho Posts: 164	Now that I think about it, mine does only have 4 prongs that key into the locking ring. The one for Ford's may have had 6 keys. __________________ 1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted)

10-29-2002, 05:15 PM	#6
2nova2 Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 615	So is it 6 prong or 4 prong? I believe the front end to be a 10 bolt corporate with auto lock hubs. Before i start the work i want to make sure i have the proper tools. The Napa guy said the 6 prong is for ford and chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 but i want confirmation. __________________ 72 GMC Burb barn door 4X4 350/350 PS PB Tilt ( gone but not forgooten) 64 Chevy II V8 Loaded Wagon 2004 Chevy 2500 HD Sonoma County, Northern CA

10-29-2002, 05:34 PM	#7
MStokes Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Meridian, Idaho Posts: 164	The one I bought at NAPA was for GM vehicles and had 4 prongs. I remember seeing one for Ford's that had 6 prongs. There were no date specifications on the packaging. I would think your's would take the 4 prong. It doesn't take much to get things torn apart down to the locking ring to verify. If you want to have it on hand before you start, I would go with the 4 prong and if by chance it is not correct, you can always return it and get the one you know you need at that time. Just a warning, mine was around $23 and I think the 6 prong one was substanially more. __________________ 1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted)

10-29-2002, 07:12 PM	#8
79 K20 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Gillam, MB Posts: 53	As the other guys have said I'm not sure for a '90 but for my '79 it was a four prong tool. I was looking at buying one to and it was the same 6 prong one you had pictured. I made my own. __________________ Q

10-30-2002, 07:05 AM	#10
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	My 85 10 bolt front axle used the 4 prong type. The same tool also fits my 70 dana44 8 lug axle also. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

10-30-2002, 11:02 AM	#11
2nova2 Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Posts: 615	Ok i guess its gonna be the 4 prong, let the work begin. Is the first step well after the wheel is off to remove a big spring clip and spring? my chiltons doesn't seem to say that, but it looks like i have to remove locking hub stuff in order to get to the big locking nut. Any place on the web the will give me a step by step or should i buy a gm manual. I thought i was mechanically inclined but i don't want mess up the auto hub stuff just want to put new rotors and pads on. __________________ 72 GMC Burb barn door 4X4 350/350 PS PB Tilt ( gone but not forgooten) 64 Chevy II V8 Loaded Wagon 2004 Chevy 2500 HD Sonoma County, Northern CA

10-30-2002, 03:34 PM	#12
MStokes Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Meridian, Idaho Posts: 164	When I did mine a couple of weeks ago, it was the first time I had ever taken a manual locking hub apart. It is pretty straight forward especially once you get all the parts out so that you can see them. I was following directions in a Haynes manual and it was very accurate as to the parts and steps that I had to follow. Make sure you closely follow the directions for putting it back together. There is a set proceedure for torque on the locknut when you reinstall. Good Luck. __________________ 1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted)

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